UKC

Rockfax Description
The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb that requires good bridging technique. Start at the base of the left-hand of two corners that lead up to the base of the main line.
Climb the left-hand corner easily to the overhang at the base of the corner and pull up into it. Sustained and technical moves gain an easing at mid-height. The upper section of the corner provides more great climbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
janegallwey 13/May 2nd
Hidden 13/May Lead O/S
Euan Todd 21/Apr Lead O/S

Wow, in a word - sustained! I've climbed easier E2's as well. There's at least two long-ish sections of 5b moves with fiddly gear - more/smaller cams might make it feel more steady? It's still a slab though, so never hard on the arms, but I had a pretty full-on calf pump by the top. Great line though, and absorbing, technical moves for most of it's length. On the day, felt to me around E2 5b **.

with Tim
J.A.Thomson 14/Jan Lead
with Vinnyb
Vinnyb 14/Jan 2nd rpt
Sam Buckee 14/Jan 2nd O/S
with Vinnyb, John Andrew Thompson
Al Evans ??/2018 Lead
with andrea evans
loic.menzies 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Gabe Oliver 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Couple of really cool moves.

hairy51 23/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Benjaminblanc 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S

How's your footwork? This is a definitely the line of the crag and gives some excellent, technical climbing. Just dont' fall on the slab after the initial (easy) roof.

with Joe Andrews, hairy51
10029759 23/Jul/17 2nd O/S
tom.ireson 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Clare Mains
J.A.Thomson 26/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Vinnyb
Vinnyb 26/Jun/17 2nd

climbed off of swinging belay at high tide great way to finish a work day!!!

catty_9 18/Jun/17 TR O/S
Christina 13/May/17 2nd dog

Dogged doesn't begin to describe how I got to the top :(.

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 10/May/17 Lead rpt
kelliroberts3 16/Apr/17 2nd
Pete Rigby 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/17 -
Michael James Spring 03/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Mark Helliwell
clams ?/Apr/17 2nd

Felt E2 or I missed something

Hidden 27/Jan/17 Lead O/S
Lizard Ollie 30/Oct/16 2nd dog

This route was so not my style - very technical crux sequence

with FinnBar
Hidden 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Hard move above the overlap

with JakeB.
DredStripe 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Cusco
Rhys Deane 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Josh Butler
Matt Amos 31/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Sam O
Sam O'Rourke 31/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Ground up. Two falls

Dilwat 05/Aug/16 2nd

Second go after slipping off the step onto the face. Challenging route but great technical climbing

nickdonohue 05/Aug/16 Lead

I think the rockfax description should be improved, making it clear about the move left to the crack after pulling over the overlap. (Which is definitely a 'Phew!' moment). A very good climb, quite technical, sustained and often gear spaced enough to add spice. Shame about the vegetation in the top half, though the climb is still very good.

with Dilwat
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 20/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with JackM92
JackM92 20/Jul/16 2nd rpt
J.A.Thomson 13/Jul/16 TR rpt
JackM92 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Yet another quality climb at Baggy Point! Very different to anything else in North Devon. Gear is dcent where it's needed, and the climbing is non-strenous if your footwork is any good.

with Australian Dave
Adam_42 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 30/Apr/16 Lead

Cool route, looks unlikely for E1 until you're on it.

with Adam_42
jonleighton 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Glad I'm not the only one who found this hard for the grade. There was a "must not fall" section near the start for sure. I personally didn't think it was a particularly amazing climb either - enjoyed No Sweat more.

Martin Bagshaw 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Ed had a proper nightmare on this, poor sod. Gear wasn't too inspiring on the initial groove.

with Ed Green
Phileas Fauntleroy 11/Aug/15 2nd β
Andy Moles 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Jon de Leyser
Jon_dL 31/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Great feature

PeterDawson 25/Jul/15 Lead β
Jack Porteous 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
cem 19/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Tough.

Hidden 19/Jul/15 2nd
supersouthward 18/Jul/15 Lead

Emotionally exhausting, vegetated and a little loose at the top. dbrooks kindly protected and then tested the move going round the overhang

with dbrooks
dbrooks 18/Jul/15 2nd RP

had a complete mare trying to lead this, got very scared moving off the ledge on the RHS to the good hold out left, managed to get a cam in but had a severe case of discoleg and wasn't able to regain my composure and fell off not much after, felt pretty bold moving out left and quite difficult for E1

ChristyCole 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lovely in the drizzle

robgixer 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/15 2nd
HowieB ?/Jul/15 Lead
with James, Elliot
Hidden 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
phil64 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Hard?

with Ali Taylor
J.A.Thomson 21/May/15 TR rpt
J.A.Thomson 15/May/15 TR rpt
Phileas Fauntleroy ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
Mark Kemball 27/Sep/14 Lead
tash 27/Sep/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd
petecallaghan 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Josey Field
ian d f 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Stroppy 23/Aug/14 2nd
with RKirke
RKirke 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 13/Aug/14 TR rpt
J.A.Thomson 08/Aug/14 TR rpt
andrea83 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Great lead by Mark.

with Mark, Hamish777
rd20 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with dprctr
dprctr 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

The scariest 'E1' I've ever done. Really run out thin sustained climbing. Terrapin (E3) felt easier than this.

with rd20
Matt Smith 09/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Had a bit of an epic.... Huge, unexpected rain shower soaked the rock and then waves washed a couple of us into the sea on the retreat back. Its hard swimming with a trad rack...

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
J.A.Thomson 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S

A very nice climb, well lead by dan. The bottom section was very bold and fun will have to lead this my self but the fun has been take trying to work it out on lead. THIS IS A MUST CLIMB IF YOUR ON BAGGY

Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Dizz 30/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Hugh T
Mr Powly 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with burto
chappers909 03/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
rfdl100 11/Aug/12 2nd RP
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

tricky climbing at the bottom. Gear fidly and not great. Upper section not so interesting and full of lichen.

with Richard Lizzimore
jon_gill1 11/Aug/12 2nd
with ripper
ripper ?/Aug/12 Lead
with jon gill
chappers909 ?/Aug/12 2nd β
Tom Seccombe 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tim exley 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S

did some gardening on-route

timdi ?/Jun/12 Lead
alan moore ??/2012 Lead

One tricky bit over the big overlap.

Frostie 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Mixed feelings about this climb, not a classic or a 2 star route but a good climb.

with Nick Andrews
AJH 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Crispin
sparbus 13/Oct/11 Lead
with FedUp
burto 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
cem 25/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Charles Mason, drcorbasisgod
drcorbasisgod 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with cem
Rich Guest 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

I've led much easier E2's! Found the bottom slab sketchy and the top corner section desperate in parts

nickmattia 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Seconded Rich up this fine route. Great moves throughout but a bit green at the top. Thanks mate!

Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Rob84 23/Jan/11 2nd dog
with Chris James
crispyboy 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

again a lot of fun. Good gear, not too difficult. Well worth doing.

with phil j, denzel
Hidden 23/Nov/10 Lead O/S
alek 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Chris Poole, Laurence Everitt
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
lrandall 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome! Sections of stemming, laybacking and, for a few moves, slab climbing outside of the corner. Well deserving of three stars despite the botanical finishing corner. Felt very pushy, almost had me off at least once but managed to hold in there.

Chad123 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Nice sustained, technical corner though needs a bit of cleaning in the top off, a bit too vegetated to be a classic....

sgl 08/Aug/10 Lead
with chad
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
pezzerrr 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 14/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
blahblahblah 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Pascal Guilloux
Bristoldave 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with long
Hidden 22/Sep/07 -
brian watson ?/Sep/07 -
scott titt ?/Sep/07 -
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/07 -
Marti999 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
DDDD ??/2007 -
feilx 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Dave Kerr 09/Aug/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
Ed Babs ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/04 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/04 2nd
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Gus
cem 29/Jun/03 Lead dog

1 minor slip onto gear

with GrahamD
plain kitten ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/99 Lead
Sime64 ?/Sep/98 2nd O/S

MMC meet

Mark Kemball 17/Feb/98 2nd
with Rob Galley
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
colin milton 20/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with eric milton
tompercy 20/Nov/93 Lead

First E1 lead!

with Tom Brunt
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Didymus 14/Jun/92 TR
with BUMC
kp64zl ?/Feb/92 Lead
with Giles
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/90 Lead O/S
steveb2006 02/Sep/90 2nd
with Simon Mee
Hidden 08/Jul/90 Lead dnf
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
mikej 20/Sep/85 2nd
with Mike Byles
tapley 12/Sep/84 Lead
with Dave Kent, Chris Seymour
The Reaper 18/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Simon cook ?/Jun/82 -
Hidden 20/Feb/82 Lead
Hammy 19/Aug/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
mark-abz 07/Dec/80 2nd
Brian Wilderspin 07/Dec/80 Lead
Steve Lewis 12/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Gary
Mike C 25/Jun/78 2nd

Direct version

with Kevin Howett
turnerk ??/1976 -
17 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set