Rockfax Description
A great route that is tricky for the grade. It follows a line of scoops and niches to the left of the striking line of King Wad's top arete. Start up King Wad and make your way up the flake. From a few metres up this, span left on undercuts to reach a peg. Head directly up via blind groping for side-pulls, passing another three pegs. You can either finish up the arete, or scuttle right into the groove left of King Wad to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the hovering flake as for King Wad, then head out left to a peg, up past another, then an initially perplexing sequence leads up and right past another peg and some easy ground to the top.

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Haydn Jones 08/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Paul reeves
JackM92 05/Jul/17 2nd

Big holds, loads of underclings. Felt like a route I'd be able to lead fairly soon, was able to do all the moves without resting on the rope.

owain86 17/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Gutted, stood resting in a bridging position after the final peg and next to jugs. Must have been careless with my feet and from nowhere I was off. Lowered, pulled ropes and did again. Really nice climbing

jonleighton 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Interesting technical moves

with Owain
andyinglis 03/Jun/17 2nd

Pretty tricky

with Tim Miller
Timothy Miller 03/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Really should have got this one first time but my foot popped off a gritty hold after the difficultys and fell with my arse slamming into the wall

peter.herd 09/Apr/17 Lead

Excellent route. Bit of a battle with early season trad fitness but i dug in.

with Murdo
millsy 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Smith
Hidden 30/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Glyn 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Will Oates
soph 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Pablo Martin
mynyddresident 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with KP
Tom Livingstone 02/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Dave Chew, Niels Ernst-Williams
Hidden 02/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 07/Jun/15 2nd

Crazy rock and cool feet

Misha 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Very good and pretty hard! Lots of far from obvious moves on layaways and undercuts. A few semi rest positions in between lots of technical and sometimes powerful moves. Good rest on undercuts at the end of the hard stuff before the final few moves to get to easy ground, thankfully these last few moves are easier than they look and there are some good jugs for a change. One of the harder E4s I've done.

with Andy
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
morganator 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
Ed morris 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Technical and open climbing, my favourite!

Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, quite sustained, cool techy footwork and plenty of thank goodness holds

with ben
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 16/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Fingers
Michael Allday 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with si hughes
dan gibson 27/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Eszter
Duncan Campbell 24/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Fell at the third peg. think you keep going left past this not straight up! Felt unconfident today and nearly didn't commit to the traverse, glad I did even though I fell off what should have been easier ground.

with Mikey G
The old James turnbull 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with will sim
Julian Cooper 23/Jul/13 Lead dog

Steep and in yer face. Traverse quickly left and then back right. Didn't like the slopey footholds.

with Ben Steel
Ellis Bird ?/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Fran S8 15/Sep/12 2nd
Owain Llewelyn 27/Jul/12 Lead

Cracking route. Initially mis-read the crux moves.

with Gareth E
willoates 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good climbing and gear where you need it... almost went the wrong way but didn't. Happy

with Murdoch
Ally Smith 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Very blind and technical for a limestone sport climber!

with Naomi, Gareth
Cailean Harker 13/Mar/12 -
Hidden 08/Nov/11 Lead
Tom Livingstone 31/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Meg
feilx 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

We both led this.

with KM
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
zero six ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Pseudo sport climbing in the Pass. Nice enough but could do with losing some of the pegs, I placed good wires next to two of them.

Rob Pitt 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Lee Roberts
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
switch 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Blair
dan gibson 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
Adam Ellwood 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Easy - but it was well chalked

pete johnson 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Lun
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 03/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Luke Brooks 17/May/10 2nd
with Barni
barni 17/May/10 Lead O/S

Pulled on all the gear and cried pretty much all the way up. Luke cruised it after me and made it look easy, he's amazing!

with luke
Ed Booth 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Al Mason, George Ulrich
phil64 ?/May/10 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Mike Goldthorp 19/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with keith
Alex Mason 17/Oct/09 Lead

Failed on this in the rain on thursday, bad route-reading, lowered off. Cruised today, felt good, king wad?

with Ben alsford
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead β
Brown 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Henry
Rich Kirby 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Very good. Keep your eyes peeled for pegs as I missed one.

with Nige
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
Toby Dunn 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with JulesV
Hidden 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
ksjs 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S

very good, with fairly blind climbing and a technical mid-section: Tremadogesque

with geraldine
Hidden ??/2008 -
Ram MkiV 09/Sep/07 Lead β

after reeve but placed my own kit

with reeve
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Mar/98 2nd
with Al Willoner
Hidden 31/May/97 2nd
Hidden 31/May/97 Lead O/S
phardman 12/Apr/97 -
ukb & bmc shark 04/Aug/96 Lead
Graeme Smithy ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Ian Cooksey
whispering nic ?/Jul/94 Lead
with Kat
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