Rockfax Description
A very sustained route, but not the hardest E5 around. Start in the middle of the terrace below a crack-line that grows with height to become a groove by the top. Move up to the roof and arrange some gear. Make a stiff pull around this followed by a few more technical moves to enter the start of the crack proper. Follow this - all rather sustained - to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious thin crackline just right of chreon. Climb over the bulge and up to a short hanging arete (peg), crux moves gain bomber wires. Now step left and head straight on up to the finishing groove.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Tom Livingstone 01/Aug Lead rpt

Into top of Kicker Conspiracy. A very good combo

Hidden 01/Aug 2nd rpt
peter.herd 12/Jul Lead

Excellent. More technical than burly

Haydn Jones 08/Jul Lead O/S

Found the gear not great on this. But the climbing is never hard...really tired feet after power walking to cloggy this morning and running back down.

with Paul reeves
JackM92 05/Jul 2nd

With 2 rests on the rope. Able to do all the moves, but took a while to figure some of them out. One to come back and lead when a bit better.

Tom Livingstone 03/Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jul Lead O/S
Butel 26/Jun 2nd dog

Had to pull just before peg. Good after that. Amazing line with some sharp crystal crimps and a tough exit. Amazing lead by John!

jonleighton 26/Jun Lead O/S

Excellent stuff, it stays interesting until nearly right at the top. Found it reasonably tricky but not desperate, most of the difficultly came from internal debates about whether my gear was sufficient and whether I might hit the ground if it wasn't!

FlavioL1989 02/Jun Lead O/S

Ohh yeahhh. Went for a goosey gander and ended up on the top! Not a warmup btw and much better than being at work.

JenShelley 02/Jun 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 08/Apr Lead G/U

2nd go. Found the crux steady but messed up further on and fell off down-climbing. Great route with an excellent space-walking finish. Really pleased with how confidently I climbed for the start of the season. At one point I was climbing and thought 'I'm not scared, should I be?'. Turns out just getting on e5s is the way to do it.

with Deacon
deacondeacon 08/Apr Lead G/U
Ramon Marin 05/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with dave pickford
Greg Cunningham 29/Aug/16 Lead dog

took a sit down one move from the easy stuff. Not quite fit enough but pleased to give it a go. Great pro.

with Donie
Tom Livingstone 14/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
D.Russell 25/May/16 Lead β
with Adam
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead O/S
Glyn 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Awesome! Fantastic climbing

with Will Oates
ejected 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S

great route

Ramon Marin 16/Aug/15 Lead G/U

pleased with this after my injury recovery. Failed first go, stripped the gear on abseil after climbing Chreo and send it clean second go. A few techy and tough moves though

with ciaran tracey
soph 16/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Pablo Martin
Hidden 23/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 09/Jul/15 Lead G/U

2nd go. Fell of last hard move didn't find the good part of a hold. Good route.

with Sam
samwillo 09/Jul/15 2nd

Not a soft touch.

Ed Booth 09/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Gus 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Duncan Campbell, michaela tracey
Duncan Campbell 17/May/15 Lead O/S

After missing out on doing positron yesterday due to tides and not trying an E5 due to feeling a bit under the weather I was psyched to feel better waking up this morning. Despite it being cold and drizzly at the crag I decided to go for a look. Very well protected but with a hard start and sustained technical climbing above. It ain't over til it's over! Pleased as punch.

with Bubbles
morganator 13/May/15 Lead dog

Fell off in groove. Fun techy moves

with International Meet Guest
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Ally Smith 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Gareth
markalmack 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with gwen
piken 13/Sep/14 Lead
with Will
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Pleased with this, plenty of gear and a bit techers, right up my street.

with ben
alaan 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
drysori 07/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Got a bit spooked by the runner/hold decision. A couple more moves and I'd have been fine! Good experience to try this.

Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead RP
Rachel Slater 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Second E5 and felt really steady on it. Lots of good holds and gear. No way 6b though!

with Anna Gilyeat
Ram MkiV 20/Jun/14 Lead

ground skimmer first go after unexpected and careless foot slip whilst going to clip a wire after the crux. angry. 2nd go not so bad

with Alex
shed_hed 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic! Good work by Gwen. Some really tricky moves! A plauge of midges suddenly appeared whilst I was belaying and I think in my increasingly panicky state the need to try escape them contributed massively to me getting up the route clean!

with Gwen Lancashire
LRob 11/Jun/14 Lead β

There was no option for retro flash. Probably 8 years since I did this. Amazing. Felt easy with really good gear. Not 6b

nathanlee 21/May/14 Lead O/S

End of the day, got scared!

with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, Oli Grounsell
Tom Livingstone 21/May/14 2nd rpt
redjerry 30/Aug/13 TR O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Elfyn Jones
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Stuart McAleese
Howard Lawledge ?/Jul/13 -
with Jack
soph 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Tibbetts
Fran S8 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd dog
willoates 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Well happy to just get on this, let alone do it! the moves weren't desperate, got most pumped placing gear. Mintos!!

with Murdoch
Ally Smith 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Good birthday present - first E5 in a good few months. Thanks for the chalked up holds Naomi!

with Si Clark
Cailean Harker 13/Mar/12 -
Tom Livingstone 02/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Boom! Led first go after seconding Mason up this a few days ago. Nice route.

Tom Livingstone 31/Aug/11 2nd β

Awesome route, back for the lead soon!

Alex Mason 31/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Dogged this 2 years ago. Felt really fluid on this, didn't have to stop at all but the climbing after the small niche felt quite bold, don't think I made the most of the placements though.

lx 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with will smith
Rich Kirby 09/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Ed Booth 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

cool route!.

Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
feilx 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 24/Jul/11 Lead β

On Felix's gear

Steve Crowe 23/Jul/11 Lead β

Led after Karin.

with KM
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead dog
Adam Lincoln 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Joe Bertalot
ksjs 19/Apr/11 2nd dog

Not again! Straight from work, no bouldering, no warm-up, belayed for some time in evening shade, cold fingers and team waiting to do the route when I set off = sub-optimal. No deliberate rest but I did fall at roof, just rushed it but mind wasn't there. Got nice flash pump to boot. Next time...

with Rob G
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Keith Scarlett
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Brown 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Henry
dan gibson 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
Luke Brooks 17/May/10 Lead
with Barni
barni 17/May/10 2nd
with luke
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead
Mike Goldthorp 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Felt really good, awesome moves from leaving the overlap, into the pod/niche thing and then steadier but still technical climbing beyond.

Alex Mason 19/Oct/09 Lead

Hard,sustained, great line, inescapable, should be a classic. Fell off entering the mini niche 7foot above peg, then took a hang leaving it. Top groove was wet, but still climbable, will be back this week for the clean tick.

with Ben alsford
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd dog
nige 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 08/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Nige
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Jun/09 2nd
Rich Kirby 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Yes, pointless pegs. V.good.

with Roger
Toby Dunn 27/Jul/08 Lead
with JulesV
ksjs 02/Jun/08 2nd dog

hard, sequency, bouldery initial section, 1 rest in an effort to save myself for RNM

with geraldine
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
switch ?/May/08 Lead O/S

Good gear, technically sustained

Hidden ??/2008 -
IOAN D 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Mills
Eduardo Martinez 22/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Intense. Pointless pegs.

with Ed Brown
Hidden 14/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 31/May/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/97 2nd β
phardman 12/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Jon Bibby
sadams 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
jfletcher 18/Aug/96 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 04/Aug/96 2nd
Graeme Smithy ?/Jul/96 2nd
with Ian Cooksey
Mike Owen 28/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?/May/93 Lead O/S
jon 14/May/88 Lead
with H
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