320m, 8 pitches. Classic grade 3 route high on the mountain. Natural drainage line with water visible on bottom icefall even after prolonged cold spell. Expect three decent pitches with steep snow between. Fan shaped exit can be topped by moderate cornices, mostly on the right side, but is liable to release large avalanches. Rock is quite compact with fewer cracks for gear. Cycling in to the end of the forest is recommended, and there are two small streams to cross on the walk-in. First one is shallow and wide, second one outflanked fifty metres upstream.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

rockstott 10/Feb AltLd

Post-holed in and climbed in 5+ pitches. Good bits of ice about but never when you needed it. Crusted, sugary snow throughout. Fun though

JamesRoddie 02/Apr/18 Solo O/S

One of the best winter solos I’ve done for a while. Very fat conditions. Spindrift-fest!

Hidden 31/Mar/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/18 AltLd
Simon Caldwell 30/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Pretty much all banked out, hard work fighting through deep snow in the bottom quarter, more solid after than. No more than II in these conditions. Will have to go back in a leaner year!

with Lemming
HaleAlex 29/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Some ice but mostly snow. Snow was well consolidated

ChuckMaurice 29/Mar/18 2nd O/S

Very fat condition. Fib broken by rockfall on pitch 7. Climbed out and walked off. A long day....

Oliver Smaje 20/Mar/18 Solo O/S

Very banked. took some ice steps to the side for a little exercise.

with Rob Taylor
Roberttaylor 20/Mar/18 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/18 2nd O/S
freudy_love 18/Mar/18 AltLd O/S
Thomas Jones 26/Feb/18 AltLd

In great condition. Steep first pitch and some long runoutsbut all on reassuring neve. Some nicely chopped out belay stances too.

tomwalton 26/Feb/18 AltLd
morsy 25/Feb/18 AltLd
with peter berwick
Pete23 25/Feb/18 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
Hidden 24/Feb/18 -
judith neaves 24/Feb/18 2nd

Led very short pitch, first winter lead!

Shaw Brown 24/Feb/18 AltLd

Took in the steep but short icefall on the left of the gully, well worth doing.

Simonfarfaraway 24/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

brilliant long gully climb. Easy conditions at present hard neve and useful ice for screws/belays.

with loz
fuzzysheep01 23/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Led one long pitch in the middle to save rope faff. Easy climbing throughout route as banked out with excellent snow. Some faffy belays. Big day.

Violinist 23/Feb/18 2nd O/S
with fuzzysheep01, Karl Stewart
Karlos 23/Feb/18 Lead O/S

Done in 8 pitches. Long run outs but snow all there!

Dougbart 22/Feb/18 AltLd
with Iain
Hidden 22/Feb/18 -
axelgrease 21/Feb/18 Lead rpt

Used bikes to end of forest (especially useful on the return). First climbed this in Feb 1986 with Ron Hockey, and still think its the best grade 3 in the country, though banked up this time. Mantle of solid semi spring snow with more sugary stuff deep down below. Eight long runouts to a sunny plateau. Huge avalanche fan below gully.

with Kate
Matt Harmon 09/Feb/18 Lead O/S
Sarah Roscoe 09/Feb/18 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/18 AltLd
Hidden 02/Feb/18 AltLd
aljones91 07/Mar/16 AltLd
Tim Hamlet 04/Mar/16 AltLd

Great climb, amazing position. Good frozen ice falls spaces with banked out snow slopes

with Oliver mentz
JenRoberts 04/Mar/16 2nd
with Tim, Ollie
SarahA 13/Feb/16 AltLd

Pretty poor condition, we only really saw ice on the first pitch, then just a very long gully full of unconsolidated scary snow!

with mmason1
CaelanB 15/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

In fairly bad nick still, needs a few freeze thaw cycles for it to become nicely iced. Walk in was long and arduous due to the depth of powder

Mike Webster 12/Jan/16 2nd
masa-alpin 12/Jan/16 Lead O/S

First winter route for Jonno. The hanging ice in P1 had a metre-wide hollow behind and was not climbable. We circumvented it 3 metres from the right (P1 30m). We met other 4 short sections that were as tough as P1 in later 4 pitches. After P2 (60m), we moved together, I leading and occasionally belaying to protect those short hard sections. It took 4 hours. No visibility all day. -2 degC at the start and 0 degC at the plateau at 4pm.

with Jonno R, Mike Webster
gingerbex 01/Mar/15 2nd dnf
alastairbegley 01/Mar/15 Lead dnf

ice on the first pitch was pretty cruddy, backed off after second pitch due to large quantities of unstable windslab...

gregor 27/Mar/14 -
kelliroberts3 04/Feb/14 -

Pitched first pitch then moved together, first pitch pretty cruddy the rest banked out.... Also a curling cornice ready to go at the top! Still, nice climb and brilliant views from the top!

Pete Rigby 04/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Kelli Roberts
david0811 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with debbie, MrRiley
skirton 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
MrRiley 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent conditions and a very sociable day on the route. Last few rope lengths go on a bit though!

Elsier 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Adrian lead the two hard pitches, fantastic climb with continued interesting sections, in a superb setting.

with AdrianC
fall-line 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Very long and we were a bit slow. 14 hours car to car!

with Sarah Kirton
Debbie Lee 06/Apr/13 AltLd
with Dave Marshall, MrRiley
Col Kingshott 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Not stepped out at all, even with all the recent ascents.

with Brilo
Hidden 01/Apr/13 2nd
kes1 30/Mar/13 AltLd
chrisallan 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 30/Mar/13 Solo rpt

Enjoyed better conditions than my previous ascent.

Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd
GPN 27/Mar/13 AltLd
with net
net 27/Mar/13 AltLd

Then did 3 Munros - rather a long day out!

with GPN
Andy Moles 26/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
ferdia 26/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
luckyjim 26/Mar/13 Solo

Must be 15 years since i last climbed Penguin Gully..nice wee route!

petegunn 21/Mar/13 Solo

A good climb with some intresting ice steps. The walk in was not so good! Windy and hard work breaking trail. Found Andy Nisbet's lost axe

peter.herd 17/Mar/13 AltLd

Simul climbed mostly. 2 belays. Bloody long and good! Lots of fresh snow and good ice. Dropped my goggles though. Biking back out was a treat!

with Steven A
Steven Andrews 17/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Always a great climb. The entry ice pitch was pretty steep this time and there was some slab dodging higher up but lovely ice pitches.

with Pete
DavPk 09/Mar/13 AltLd

Took direct start up icefall. Great route but lost 2 BD ice screws due to caritool gate popping open, near the top. Think they probably ended up part way down the gully. If anyone finds them I'd very much appreciate their return.

with Dave Heritage
Hidden 25/Feb/13 2nd
PAJames 25/Feb/13 -


sj87 25/Feb/13 2nd
rooftops 23/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/13 AltLd
abbeywall 22/Feb/13 AltLd
with K
Hidden 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Colin Mcgregor 20/Feb/13 AltLd
sgl 19/Feb/13 AltLd
with tebs
HimTiggins 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
ollie1 19/Feb/13 AltLd
with alex shipp
Ken Applegate 18/Feb/13 Lead

Hard day in the office! Led the whole route, and took in an additional second icefall, which added a bit more interest to an already great route.

with Victor, John
Hidden 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/13 AltLd
markharro 12/Feb/13 Lead

Finally bagged this route and my 3rd last munro. In great condition, fantastic weather and charming partner

with Polina
Hidden 12/Feb/13 AltLd
Robertgiddy 12/Feb/13 AltLd
gregor 11/Feb/13 -
Tdavy01 09/Feb/13 -
ChrisWills ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Earned its stars - turned into a bit of an epic. Fantastic positioning. We had great conditions - decent ice at start and good snow all the way up. One nut and one hex the whole way - relied on bucket seats. Moving as a 3 was a bit slow and we took a wee while to finish the whole route. Most memorable climb to date.

with Sam Turton, Aaron O'Leary
Hidden ?/Jan/13 AltLd
marxk ??/2013 -
malc 13/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Joe, Robin
Steven Andrews 04/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Made it out here at last and in fantastic condition - pitched the first IV icefall and then moved together for the rest.

with Kane
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hazie 19/Mar/11 AltLd

Climbed with Andy Bailey. In good condition. 8 pitches, 6 pitches with technical sections, excellent blue ice on 5th pitch. Soft snow for 2 pitches, exited up ice RHS to avoid snow plod.

robgixer ?/Mar/11 AltLd
rockjedi12345 23/Feb/11 -
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Rodders28 ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd
SWalls 20/Feb/10 Lead
with Rory Brown
frecro 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

first two pitches were great, everything else was grade 1 - moved together for the final 3/4 pitches

with Zoe Thornton
Hidden 20/Feb/10 2nd
t_stork 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Marcus Brown
Steven Andrews 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

2 nice ice pitches and then an easy gully to the top for a shorts and t-shirt stroll to the summit.

with Richard Lines
Hidden 23/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jan/10 Solo
windy100 ??/2009 -
Spade 10/Feb/07 AltLd
with Jim Turner
Chris L Hill ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
Captain Solo 19/Mar/06 AltLd
Mark Bannan 19/Mar/06 AltLd
Tom Vivian ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
gripped01 ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Jamie B ?/Feb/05 AltLd
with Alex Glasgow
luckyjim ?/Feb/97 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Mick King 12/Mar/90 2nd
with Simon Jenkins, Mark Lester, Paul "Doc" Lishman
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High IV
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High 5
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High 3
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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