46m, 2 pitches.
Another loose and dirty start is followed by tricky, more solid climbing. Start as for Left Hand Red Wall.
1 23m. 5c. Climb up, as for Left Hand Red Wall, until a foot-traverse, on a flake about five metres up, leads rightwards into a depression of white (eek!) rock. Move right into a groove, and climb it to until a step left gains the belay of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 23m. 6a. Climb a flake crack, as for Left Hand Red Wall, then move left onto a small ledge. Go up and over a small overlap, twin stainless steel pegs, then climb left and go up on layaways, easing towards the top.
Jim Moran, Smiler Cuthbertson, Paul Williams, P. Aubrey, 25 Aug 1979.
1 23m. 5c. Climb up, as for Left Hand Red Wall, until a foot-traverse, on a flake about five metres up, leads rightwards into a depression of white (eek!) rock. Move right into a groove, and climb it to until a step left gains the belay of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 23m. 6a. Climb a flake crack, as for Left Hand Red Wall, then move left onto a small ledge. Go up and over a small overlap, twin stainless steel pegs, then climb left and go up on layaways, easing towards the top.
Jim Moran, Smiler Cuthbertson, Paul Williams, P. Aubrey, 25 Aug 1979.
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Route of Interest
Heart of Gold
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)