Atlantis © Mark Alderson
The cliffs around South Stack Lighthouse offer great variety in an awe-inspiring setting. Thankfully it isn't all hard stuff though and you can find relatively friendly routes on Castell Helen including the ever-popular Lighthouse Arete at VS. But big bold (and often loose) walls is what most of South Stack is about with some of the most impressive extreme adventure-routes in the UK at the iconic cliffs of Yellow Wall, Red Walls and Mousetrap Zawn.
South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive.
Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks.
Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
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