Rockfax Description
A direct and very intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of the long crack of Lost Horizon. There are a number of difficult passages. Start 1m left of Lost Horizon.
Climb up left to an overlap and move past it via thin moves to a horizontal crack with a small jammed block on the right. Move up left to a peg (and good small wire) in a thin crack and make fingery moves to a horizontal break. Continue more easily up to another break then move right and climb with difficulty up to a ledge in the upper break. Step left and finish up a thin crack, as for Terrapin. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
hornbywill 30/Oct Lead O/S

The bottom section has changed compared to guidebook topos, its very hollow and the gear under the overlap feels as though it will break around the placement. The first real gear is the break below the peg. There is a large hollow sounding flake where you step right which looks like it may go soon. The break where you join terrapin is very dirty resulting in walking across the grassy ledge which is exciting. The top of terrapin also sounds slightly hollow and is dirty. For all of these reasons I would suggest soft E5 for an onsight in its current condition. Peg seemed good clove hitched off with a solid wire above, and nice moves by the peg!

Hidden 17/Jun TR rpt
Hidden 14/Jun TR rpt
Hidden 11/Apr -
Hidden 18/Jan Lead RP
G Weatherley 28/Feb/16 2nd O/S
with Ed Walker
J.A.Thomson 24/Jun/15 TR rpt
J.A.Thomson 22/Jul/14 TR dog

found the crux at the peg hard fell about ten times before i worked it out (climbed on ropeman)

Hidden ?/Jul/14 TR dog
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Aug/13 TR rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
Phileas Fauntleroy ?/Jul/13 2nd β
with James Latus, Dan Gorvett
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Tom Seccombe 07/Dec/12 Lead dnf

not sure why i tried this was soaking wet with spray from the sea. Slippery.

with Elliot Spooner
Bex_M 12/Aug/12 TR dog
with Duncan Dunbar
Justin T 06/Aug/12 2nd dog
John Mcshea 06/Aug/12 Lead O/S

An antidote to sharpnose. great route but not what it says on the tin....

Tom Seccombe 04/Jul/12 Lead dog

Stood on peg to place nut.

cem 25/Sep/11 TR dog

1 rest at crux. Able to do it cleanly at second attempt

with Charles Mason, Chris Parson
drcorbasisgod 25/Sep/11 TR dog
Graham Atkins 09/Jan/11 2nd
billb ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Graham A
daviesxxx ??/2011 -
nick hawkins 09/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Chad123 08/Aug/10 AltLd dog

Start was fine but messed up the crux and fell off, bit too thin in the hot sun. Shame as rest of route is enjoyable if a little vegetated at the top.....felt tough for E4....

with Sam
datoon 06/Sep/09 Lead dog

Feeling a bit sick, messed up my feet!!!

with K & RT
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
cornishben ??/2005 2nd rpt
with Max Dutson
tuftynick ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Simon cook ?/Aug/97 -
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
eroica64 12/Jul/92 2nd

Seconded it after a fall 2/3 of the way up. Thank you small wire.

Derek Ryden ?/Feb/91 Lead dog
with Mark Lee
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Oct/89 Lead
with Phil Baker
clark alston ?/Feb/89 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden 04/Jul/87 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jul/84 2nd dog
with Bruce Woodley
jon 07/Mar/82 -
with Ian
mark-abz 08/Jun/80 TR
with Rob S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 08/Apr/78 Lead rpt
with Gary
Steve Lewis 12/Mar/77 2nd O/S
with Pete, sharpie
Paul Clarke ??/1976 Lead
with Mike Lynch
turnerk ??/1976 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 6
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set