Rockfax Description
A direct and very intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of the long crack of Lost Horizon. There are a number of difficult passages. Start 1m left of Lost Horizon.
Climb up left to an overlap and move past it via thin moves to a horizontal crack with a small jammed block on the right. Move up left to a peg (and good small wire) in a thin crack and make fingery moves to a horizontal break. Continue more easily up to another break then move right and climb with difficulty up to a ledge in the upper break. Step left and finish up a thin crack, as for Terrapin. © Rockfax

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Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
DredStripe 21 Sep TR dog Shunt
Shunt
Hidden 6 May Lead rpt
hornbywill 30 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S The bottom section has changed compared to guidebook topos. The bottom of the slab is very hollow and the gear under the overlap feels as though it will break around the placement. The first real gear is at the break below the peg. There is a large hollow sounding flake where you step right which looks like it may go soon. The break where you join terrapin is very dirty and grassy resulting in walking across the grassy ledge which is exciting. The top of terrapin also sounds hollow and is dirty so you’ve got to tread carefully after 30 odd metres of climbing. For all of these reasons I would suggest soft E5 for an onsight in its current condition. Peg seemed good clove hitched off with a solid wire above. Nice moves all the way!
The bottom section has changed compared to guidebook topos. The bottom of the slab is very hollow and the gear under the overlap feels as though it will break around the placement. The first real gear is at the break below the peg. There is a large hollow sounding flake where you step right which looks like it may go soon. The break where you join terrapin is very dirty and grassy resulting in walking across the grassy ledge which is exciting. The top of terrapin also sounds hollow and is dirty so you’ve got to tread carefully after 30 odd metres of climbing. For all of these reasons I would suggest soft E5 for an onsight in its current condition. Peg seemed good clove hitched off with a solid wire above. Nice moves all the way!
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 TR rpt
Hidden 14 Jun, 2017 TR rpt
Hidden 11 Apr, 2017 -
Hidden 18 Jan, 2017 Lead RP
G Weatherley 28 Feb, 2016 2nd O/S
with Ed Walker
with Ed Walker
J.A.Thomson 24 Jun, 2015 TR rpt
J.A.Thomson 22 Jul, 2014 TR dog found the crux at the peg hard fell about ten times before i worked it out (climbed on ropeman)
found the crux at the peg hard fell about ten times before i worked it out (climbed on ropeman)
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 TR dog
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 TR rpt
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead dog
Phileas Fauntleroy ?Jul, 2013 2nd β
with James Latus, dartfrog
with James Latus, dartfrog
Tom Seccombe 7 Dec, 2012 Lead dnf not sure why i tried this was soaking wet with spray from the sea. Slippery.
with Elliot Spooner
not sure why i tried this was soaking wet with spray from the sea. Slippery.
with Elliot Spooner
Bex_M 12 Aug, 2012 TR dog
with Duncan Dunbar
with Duncan Dunbar
Justin T 6 Aug, 2012 2nd dog
John Mcshea 6 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S An antidote to sharpnose. great route but not what it says on the tin....
An antidote to sharpnose. great route but not what it says on the tin....
Tom Seccombe 4 Jul, 2012 Lead dog Stood on peg to place nut.
Stood on peg to place nut.
cem 25 Sep, 2011 TR dog 1 rest at crux. Able to do it cleanly at second attempt
with Charles Mason, drcorbasisgod
1 rest at crux. Able to do it cleanly at second attempt
with Charles Mason, drcorbasisgod
drcorbasisgod 25 Sep, 2011 TR dog
Graham Atkins 9 Jan, 2011 2nd
billb ?Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with Graham A
with Graham A
daviesxxx ??, 2011 -
nick hawkins 9 Oct, 2010 TR dog
Hidden 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Chad123 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd dog Start was fine but messed up the crux and fell off, bit too thin in the hot sun. Shame as rest of route is enjoyable if a little vegetated at the top.....felt tough for E4....
with sgl
Start was fine but messed up the crux and fell off, bit too thin in the hot sun. Shame as rest of route is enjoyable if a little vegetated at the top.....felt tough for E4....
with sgl
datoon 6 Sep, 2009 Lead dog Feeling a bit sick, messed up my feet!!!
with K & RT
Feeling a bit sick, messed up my feet!!!
with K & RT
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead O/S
cornishben ??, 2005 2nd rpt
with Max Dutson
with Max Dutson
tuftynick ?Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 -
David Slater ?Jun, 1998 Lead O/S took ages working this out - not chalked up - belayer got wet when tide came in! Not a soft touch, esp if unchalked.
with Georgia Davey
took ages working this out - not chalked up - belayer got wet when tide came in! Not a soft touch, esp if unchalked.
with Georgia Davey
Simon cook ?Aug, 1997 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
with Al Brady
eroica64 12 Jul, 1992 2nd Seconded it after a fall 2/3 of the way up. Thank you small wire.
Seconded it after a fall 2/3 of the way up. Thank you small wire.
Derek Ryden ?Feb, 1991 Lead dog
with Mark Lee
with Mark Lee
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24 Oct, 1989 Lead
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?Feb, 1989 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Nick Biven ??, 1988 -
Hidden 4 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 28 Jul, 1984 2nd dog
with Bruce Woodley
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 7 Mar, 1982 -
mark-abz 8 Jun, 1980 TR
with Rob S
with Rob S
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Steve Lewis 8 Apr, 1978 Lead rpt
with Gary
with Gary
Steve Lewis 12 Mar, 1977 2nd O/S
with Pete, sharpie
with Pete, sharpie
Hidden ??, 1976 Lead
turnerk ??, 1976 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set