The route takes the wall between My Piano and Red Square. Start direct and pass the blank lower wall with a series of long, unlikely moves. The first move is a "run and jump" to catch a one pad finger edge. From here, a long sequence of powerful moves leads up to the first slab, and the first reasonable gear.
Short bouldery sections and reasonable rests lead up to the headwall, which offers the last hard climbing (redpoint crux) to reach the top of the crag. The route can be escaped from several points by traversing into Red Square, but you know thats not how its done!
Short bouldery sections and reasonable rests lead up to the headwall, which offers the last hard climbing (redpoint crux) to reach the top of the crag. The route can be escaped from several points by traversing into Red Square, but you know thats not how its done!
James Pearson Oct/2014.
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Route of Interest
Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans
Grade: E8 6c ***
(Nesscliffe)