Rockfax Description
A very pleasant way to finish off the climbs on the lower section of Raven Buttress. Start at the col between the lower and upper buttress. The col is most easily reached by walking up the right hand side of the lower buttress and moving left to the col.
Move up the broad rib above the col to a slabby section of rock beneath a prominent overhang. Traverse right under the overhang and finish up the break to its right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Very worthwhile.
1) 3a. Climb up until beneath the overhang. Move right, until it is possible to climb up a short corner, to reach a belay on the top.
A rock fall has blocked the finishing chimney right of overhang, still VD though

R.G.Higgins 1949

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Cuillin Calling 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S

May have just been the damp conditions but it felt bloody hard to get off the ground onto the sloping rounded slab.

Stephanopoulos 20/Jul/17 2nd
with Sharp94
Sharp94 20/Jul/17 AltLd
with Steph
timreynolds 04/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Dominic Acland 04/Jul/17 2nd
ClimbingAlex 12/Jun/17 2nd rpt

Currently very overgrown in its upper section & at the top.

Trace 13/May/17 2nd
Gregory Gibas 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Kev
BelayBunney 22/Apr/17 AltLd rpt
with Adam
runwildjohn 07/Apr/17 Lead
Jim blackford 03/Apr/17 Solo O/S
minexplorer 24/Mar/17 Lead
with Karin
Connor93 10/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 06/Dec/16 2nd O/S
Steve Jehu 13/Nov/16 AltLd
Hidden 13/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Kenhard 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Lizze led, me in the middle, Tom second.

with Tom Hinchliff, Lizze Crofts
Libla85 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Ken Hard, Tom Hinchcliff
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
mackers 15/Jul/16 -
Hidden 22/Jun/16 Lead
nickdonohue 22/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/16 Lead
ShaneHartley 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
KimberlyJarrad 24/Apr/16 AltLd
with Shane Hartley
Nick Arthur 24/Apr/16 2nd rpt
JoeCoxson 25/Feb/16 Solo O/S

As a continuation after leading Spiders Web

Hidden 21/Jan/16 Solo rpt
owen gibson ?/Jan/16 AltLd
owen gibson ?/Jan/16 AltLd
owen gibson ?/Jan/16 AltLd
Nick Arthur ?/Jan/16 AltLd
Nick Arthur ??/2016 AltLd O/S

As stated in the description, made for a great finish of a night ascent of fly on the wall. Excellent.

Hidden 22/Nov/15 2nd
Kemics 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Bit easy for vdiff. More like diff?

with Corin
wilkinscl 10/Oct/15 Lead
with Caleb
alastairbegley 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S
gingerbex 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Skip 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Jake glenn 16/Apr/15 Lead
mjkilburn 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Jake glenn 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
CreepingExcellence. 27/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Stanners 27/Sep/14 Solo O/S

enjoyed lunch at the top

with Andy G
Skip 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Mick
Alex Thurstans 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Merlin 13/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Alex Thurstons
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In its present state, this is not one to seek out - there are some nice moves, but it also has many prickly bushes at the top

Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
clubmanpete 20/May/14 Lead
jing 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Slightly unpleasant and prickly exit. Overall a good route.

Steve Woollard 05/May/14 2nd
with Donald
Phil Hutchinson 05/May/14 2nd
rd20 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with Jing
Fiona McFarlane ?/May/14 Lead
phil456 30/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Graham M
Skinnybloke 19/Apr/14 2nd

Geting started is a sod! Lost most of the skin off my knee.

The Norris 19/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Got to the ledge to the right on the overhang and came across what looked like a lot of very loose rock, with some obvious recent rockfall (a block about the size of a microwave seems to have been dislodged, and a lot of new looking loose dirt). Anyway, didnt fancy clambering up the rest of the way so downclimbed the whole route, which was an interesting challenge!

with Gem
Hidden 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Dislodged boulder from just right of the overhang. Bottom twitching event!!!!!

with Chris W
Jack Porteous 09/Apr/14 -
Jack Porteous 09/Apr/14 -
Simon cook ??/2014 -
Hidden 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 22/Nov/13 Lead
with Mark McCarthy
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
benren 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hinchrn 06/Jun/13 2nd
Ed morris 23/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ian
stoneback 06/May/13 2nd
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 19/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Ian Miller 04/Feb/13 Lead rpt

After bailing this climb a couple of mon ths ago, was pleased to be able to climb it with ease.

whiteexplorer 07/Dec/12 2nd O/S

a family of goldcrests entertained us as we were waiting to climb the route

with Dave Piper, Dilwat, SurferStan
Dilwat 07/Dec/12 2nd O/S
SurferStan 07/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Ian Miller 16/Nov/12 2nd
Cheese Monkey 16/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Lead after partner bailed. Not a very good route, should of walked out. Instead got caught in the dark in the rain. Great

with Ian M
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 21/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Debbie
ledifer 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Overgrown at the top. Lost a cam to this climb. Fun moves though

with jac hess
clubmanpete 13/May/12 Lead dnf


zcsharp 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Greg
Wendy Watthews 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
arandall 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/12 Lead
Will Gordon 22/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Tom Campbell 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
ali macphee 23/Jul/11 Lead
Frostie 19/Jun/11 Solo
Joby 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

exit is very overgrown with gorse

with Alice Fuller
Joey C 14/May/11 2nd β

Thorn bush, ouch!

with Laurie Turpin
alice fuller ?/May/11 2nd O/S
with Joby
lukerathmell ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Interesting section under the roof

with Rachel Bennett
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Westcorkman 16/Apr/11 AltLd
with Bob Dawson
laurie turpin 14/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
BelayBunney 19/Mar/11 2nd

Cath's leader training!

Tom_Page 07/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Chris
peg ?/Mar/11 Lead
tsjx 26/Sep/10 Lead

Worth scrambling through the Gorse for the top out. Best view on the Dewerstone.

thoabb 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Lots of gorse

with Nick
Steve Woollard 30/May/10 2nd
Bobling 18/Apr/10 Lead

Think took wrong line after the over hang went left of the gorse bush. Got shredded by gorse at the top.

with Will
Steve Woollard 27/Mar/10 Lead
with Bob Dawson
mreynolds ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/09 Lead
steveprice.exmouth 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Emgrant
steveprice.exmouth 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Emgrant
steveprice.exmouth 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Emgrant
steveprice.exmouth 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Emgrant
steveprice.exmouth 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Emgrant
Phil79 12/May/09 2nd rpt

Birds nest in-situ on Raven Face/Randy. Best avoided until they are gone.

with Rockferret
rockferret 12/May/09 Lead O/S
with Phil
Hidden 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Lead
Jenba* 15/Mar/09 2nd

First proper second, lead by Rich.

with Richard Stemp
pedro.silva 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Phil
Phil79 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Pedro
Mr_S 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
JonHarvey 21/Jul/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead rpt
JonHarvey 15/Jul/08 2nd rpt

Jaynes 2nd lead

with Jayne-o
DanLear 08/Jul/08 Lead
with Al McPhierson
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/08 Solo rpt
Nobster ?/Jun/08 Lead G/U
with Sven
Popkids 02/Apr/08 Lead

My first lead

with Kafoozalem
Hidden 07/Mar/08 Lead
existing debt ??/2008 -
Jules 210681 24/Aug/07 Lead
Zoomer 24/Aug/07 2nd

As a continuation of Fly on the Wall. No need for a technical grade.

mart rich 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

So much variation in a single pitch!

with Steve Moody
Justin T 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Wifey
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
localboy 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Bad ropework lead to a a huge amount of rope drag. Quite a rounded sloppy route.

with Clare D
rotsoscooper 22/Jan/06 2nd O/S

We got lost and mucky.

with Tom and Chris
Hidden ?/Jan/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 03/May/05 Lead O/S
sam coward 20/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Helen
crater 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S
drpeters ??/2004 -
Hidden 31/Aug/02 2nd
Mickdenali ??/2002 -
with Tony Rudal
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Neil Parry
Hidden 30/Apr/00 Lead
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 13/Nov/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
sixties 25/Oct/97 AltLd
with hrd
Hidden 29/Sep/97 Lead
climbingrichard 15/Mar/97 2nd O/S

Paul's 1st lead

Raggar 07/Sep/96 -

called raven wall then

with Andy J
climbingrichard 28/Jul/96 2nd O/S


climbingrichard 25/Jun/96 Lead O/S

Dry Lynne

iskra2000 06/Apr/96 Lead
with Paul Woodcock
Hidden 30/Mar/96 Solo
colin milton ?/Jul/93 Lead
with eric milton
jim_randell 12/Sep/92 2nd O/S
with MS, WW
climbingrichard 06/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 30/Sep/91 Lead
with Rob Ivens
Hidden 15/Oct/89 Lead O/S
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/86 Solo O/S
Nigel Coe 08/Oct/83 -
with Pam Holt
Andy S ?/Jul/83 2nd dog
with Dad
Hidden 29/May/83 Lead O/S
mark-abz 26/Apr/80 Solo
Mike C 07/Oct/79 Lead
with Dave Bennett, Will Fitzpatrick, Neil ?
Mike C 08/Oct/78 Lead
with Eifiona Main, Heather Tarplee, Tim Sladden
Mike C 02/Oct/77 2nd
with Nick Harman
Bolt Phobia 03/Apr/76 Solo
with John Broadwell
tutbury ?/Oct/72 -
with Gill Parker
Steve Woollard ??/1970 Lead
uphillnow ??/1964 Lead
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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