UKC

Rockfax Description
200m. An excellent route but overshadowed by its neighbour.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb the short, easy slab and cross the grassy ledge to a belay at the right-hand side of another slab.
2) 5b, 30m. After a bit of a funky move straight off the belay, cross the chimney leftwards and follow the slab to a belay on a grassy ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Traverse ledges and grass (often wet) to reach a short wall. Climb this and move left to a belay.
4) 5b, 30m. Follow the sustained slab to a grassy slope.
Walk 60m uphill from here to the next belay. It is not easy to spot, but is 5m to the right of the toe of the upper buttress.
5) 5c, 40m. Steady climbing leads to a steep pull through a small overhang (optional belay just before this). Once through the overhang, the belay is 2m above and is well positioned, with an excellent view of the Clocher itself.
6) 3a, 25m. Climb the slab easily and drift leftwards to a belay beneath, and just to the north of, the final summit tower. This pitch has the odd bolt but is otherwise barely protected so stay alert despite the minimal difficulties.
7) 5a, 25m. Follow the steep and straightforward arête to the summit ridge and belay here.
Walk along the ridge to the summit proper and abseil down the West Face to reach the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: as usual the rockfax description doesnt make a huge amount of sense, but its not hard to follow assuming you start in the right place! first pitch is quite delicate and awkward, the rest is generally steep flake pulling
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: as usual the rockfax description doesnt make a huge amount of sense, but its not hard to follow assuming you start in the right place! first pitch is quite delicate and awkward, the rest is generally steep flake pulling
tehmarks 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is a complete non-event (I'd personally walk around and start from the second pitch if I did the route again), but things improve dramatically thereafter. Excellent route overall, and what a position on the final pitch! A couple of cams might be found useful if it's near your limit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is a complete non-event (I'd personally walk around and start from the second pitch if I did the route again), but things improve dramatically thereafter. Excellent route overall, and what a position on the final pitch! A couple of cams might be found useful if it's near your limit.

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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
arête SE - voie Contamine

Grade: D+ 6a ***
(L'éveque)

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