Rockfax Description
200m. An excellent route but overshadowed by its neighbour.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb the short, easy slab and cross the grassy ledge to a belay at the right-hand side of another slab.
2) 5b, 30m. After a bit of a funky move straight off the belay, cross the chimney leftwards and follow the slab to a belay on a grassy ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Traverse ledges and grass (often wet) to reach a short wall. Climb this and move left to a belay.
4) 5b, 30m. Follow the sustained slab to a grassy slope.
Walk 60m uphill from here to the next belay. It is not easy to spot, but is 5m to the right of the toe of the upper buttress.
5) 5c, 40m. Steady climbing leads to a steep pull through a small overhang (optional belay just before this). Once through the overhang, the belay is 2m above and is well positioned, with an excellent view of the Clocher itself.
6) 3a, 25m. Climb the slab easily and drift leftwards to a belay beneath, and just to the north of, the final summit tower. This pitch has the odd bolt but is otherwise barely protected so stay alert despite the minimal difficulties.
7) 5a, 25m. Follow the steep and straightforward arête to the summit ridge and belay here.
Walk along the ridge to the summit proper and abseil down the West Face to reach the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax

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Cham Sep 24

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