Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards and presents an irresistible challenge. Start at a short arete below an overhang with a thin crack in the wall above it.
1) 5c, 23m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break and a small ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack system. Superbly sustained climbing up this gains a horizontal break with a right leading diagonal crack above it. Climb the diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to easier but more vegetated ground and a stance and abseil station.
Descent - make a 55m abseil back to the base. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Very good routes in the UK , Best slab climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave Musgrove Jnr | 1 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Clearly some debate about the best approach. We’d been told by someone who’d done it recently that it was best to walk in by scrambling down into the cove. I looked at this and got to a really dangerous looking section that I didn’t fancy. We then went to look for the ab stake - it’s just a wooden post that wobbles around in its hole. There’s also a hard to spot stub from an old stake that you can clove hitch as a back up but it’s not great positionally. In the end we did neither because the bottom of the route was very wet. We decided though that we’d bring a stake and hammer when we next visit to make a more secure ab down to the belay/ab point at the top of P2. Lots of loose rock with that option too so whatever you decide, take care! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Clearly some debate about the best approach. We’d been told by someone who’d done it recently that it was best to walk in by scrambling down into the cove. I looked at this and got to a really dangerous looking section that I didn’t fancy. We then went to look for the ab stake - it’s just a wooden post that wobbles around in its hole. There’s also a hard to spot stub from an old stake that you can clove hitch as a back up but it’s not great positionally. In the end we did neither because the bottom of the route was very wet. We decided though that we’d bring a stake and hammer when we next visit to make a more secure ab down to the belay/ab point at the top of P2. Lots of loose rock with that option too so whatever you decide, take care! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
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Wolfman Jack
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lundy)