Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards from the boulder beach of Slab Cove and presents an irresistible challenge. The cliff suffers from intermittent rockfall and the route has altered considerably over the years, and unfortunately the top pitch is now much poorer than it was. The first pitch requires a large rack of wires. Start to the left of the lower overhangs at a thin crack.
1) 5c, 50m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack-system. Superbly-sustained climbing up this gains a hanging belay at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care.
2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Very good routes in the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes.

Al Evans ??/2018 Lead

Andy was preggers at the time, James first route.

with steve bell, andrea evans
Hidden 23/Jul/16 2nd
Strife 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Thought I was going to die

with JackM92
JackM92 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

A far more serious undertaking than anything else I've been on at E2. P1 is excellent, fairly well protected, sustained with a good variety of moves. P2 is tough, very loose and covered in plants. We didn't have a rope to yard on (as other teams tend to do) so the top pitch was extremely dangerous, for both leader and belayer (dodging the constant stream of falling rocks at the hanging belay). A brilliant route with a very adventurous feel, although far harder overall than other North Devon E2's.

with Strife
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
tash 28/Sep/14 2nd

A bit epic - horrendous top section but good lower down. Sore feet - I'm not designed for slab climbing!

with ali k
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
AlexD 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2, pulling up on ab rope to finish as rock was very poor. impressive section of cliff, lots of fun.

Marti999 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

bit damp at start, cult classic falling in to disrepear. fully recommend putting a rope down top groove to cross the very loose entry in to it very little gear up it. Needs some stakes.

with AlexD
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
daviesxxx ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Chad123 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Had wanted to do this one for years - Emily intimidated but did well on pitch 2. Still a 3 star classic I reckon - 2 and a half pitches of perfect crack and slab action then 10m of dangerous loose rock moving leftwards and a solid rib to finish (Pink Void variation) Leave a rope down the top pitch just in case which makes it less scary! I agree that overall feels more like E3 5c *** but I would grade the pitches 5b, 5b, 5c. Go do it before it all falls down!

with Emily
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Paz 04/Feb/07 Lead dnf

Onsighted P1+2 then got benighted on P3 and prussiked up a (kindly lowered) ab rope. Grade probably makes more sense as a 3* E3 5c adventure route than an old classic `normal' E2.

with TS2
rob.grafton ??/2007 Lead
with Paul McCann
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Aug/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 Lead

Sheer magic.

Bullybones ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
rurp ??/2000 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2000 Lead O/S
with mark williams
goi.ashmore 05/Sep/99 Lead O/S

On a boling day, with huge breakers at the base!

with Roy Thomas
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/97 AltLd
with Bill McKee
Hidden ?/May/97 AltLd O/S
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
Hidden 17/Sep/96 AltLd O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Al Brady
IanGilbertJones 02/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with GeoffQ
auld al ?/May/95 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Hidden ?/Aug/94 -
bazza ??/1994 -
with Dave Yendal
Rob Davies 28/Aug/93 Lead dnf

Half-hearted attempt at P1

with Roy Lindsay
mattnuttall 03/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

lead P1

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ?/May/93 AltLd O/S
jcw ??/1993 -
with Alex Renshaw
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
frank ramsay ??/1993 Solo
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/92 2nd
Andy Fielding 07/Sep/91 AltLd
whispering nic 19/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
Andy Say 26/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden 28/Mar/91 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/90 Lead rpt
steveb2006 02/Sep/90 AltLd

Lead the big second pitch. First route of a fortnight in the South West

with Simon Mee
Hidden 22/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
pauldrew ??/1990 AltLd
with Dominic Leggett
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Oct/89 Lead
with Phil Baker
Hidden 18/Oct/89 2nd O/S
Derek Ryden 07/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
with Krishna
Bruce Kerr 23/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Simon cook ?/Aug/88 -
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
charlesmfrench ??/1988 Lead O/S
davidalcock ??/1988 Lead

One of my favorite climbs ever. Used to be given 5c in my day!

with Philip Scorer
michael burrows 28/Aug/87 AltLd O/S
with ian nettleton
Tom V 16/Aug/87 AltLd

Led P1

with Howie Darwin
Hidden ?/Mar/87 AltLd O/S
eroica64 25/Jan/87 AltLd

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climb.

with Julian Chapman
Hidden 28/May/86 AltLd O/S
Eduardo Martinez ??/1986 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 31/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
UKB and BMC Shark 29/Jul/84 AltLd dog
with Bruce Woodley
Andy Edgar ??/1984 Lead O/S
Mike C 26/Aug/83 2nd
with Mark Cadman
mark-abz 25/Aug/83 Lead
with Mike C
Hidden 14/Nov/81 AltLd
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 30/Oct/80 AltLd O/S
with Kev Howett
barny ?/Aug/80 AltLd O/S

Beautiful day, breeze off the sea and quite a bit of surf, foam on the beach. I led the first pitch by the direct start on LHS (has since fallen to the beach), very nice, then Simon led through to the top of the steep vertical crack - hard. I led through along the crack leftwards, but the foam blowing up the cliff coated my glasses, couldn't see, couldn't clean it off. Then it started raining. Got a belay, Simon led me off, up a horrible chossy corner - proper death stuff. Wished I'd worn a helmet, but we both survived.

with Simon Mumford
duncan ?/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
Hidden ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 07/Aug/78 AltLd
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 09/Apr/78 Lead rpt
with Gary
Steve Lewis 26/Feb/77 AltLd O/S
with Pete, sharpie
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set