Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards from the boulder beach of Slab Cove and presents an irresistible challenge. The cliff suffers from intermittent rockfall and the route has altered considerably over the years, and unfortunately the top pitch is now much poorer than it was. The first pitch requires a large rack of wires. Start to the left of the lower overhangs at a thin crack.
1) 5c, 50m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack-system. Superbly-sustained climbing up this gains a hanging belay at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 50m. Climb up the right-leaning diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to below a long, loose and grassy groove at the left end of a diagonal overlap (belay possible). Climb the right arete of the groove and finish with care.
2a) 5c, 50m. A harder, but loose and serious finish is possible by continuing up the diagonal crack to just short of the vegetated corner, from where a very loose and serious traverse left under the diagonal overlap can be made to join the finish as described. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Very good routes in the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
mrblack ?? -
JoeCoxson 1 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U Took a cheeky fall on the start somehow, after messing up my leg in the rope. Glad I stayed fixed to the rock after that. Truly adventurous, with some hard sections thrown in. Was very glad we threw a rope down for the top out
Took a cheeky fall on the start somehow, after messing up my leg in the rope. Glad I stayed fixed to the rock after that. Truly adventurous, with some hard sections thrown in. Was very glad we threw a rope down for the top out
Lizard Ollie 1 Sep, 2018 2nd Just going to lock this away in my type II fun memories box. Had to rest to get out a stuck micro and took a small slip on the traverse. First pitch actually had some really nice sections with the odd loss of a hold/plant. The second pitch belongs nowhere else but the route's namesake. Never been so thankful for a pre-placed rope.
Just going to lock this away in my type II fun memories box. Had to rest to get out a stuck micro and took a small slip on the traverse. First pitch actually had some really nice sections with the odd loss of a hold/plant. The second pitch belongs nowhere else but the route's namesake. Never been so thankful for a pre-placed rope.
Al Evans ??, 2018 Lead Andy was preggers at the time, James first route.
with steve bell, andrea evans
Andy was preggers at the time, James first route.
with steve bell, andrea evans
robbie mallinson 16 Apr, 2017 - Summer 88
Summer 88
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 2nd
Strife 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p2. Thought I was going to die
with JackM92
Led p2. Thought I was going to die
with JackM92
JackM92 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S A far more serious undertaking than anything else I've been on at E2. P1 is excellent, fairly well protected, sustained with a good variety of moves. P2 is tough, very loose and covered in plants. We didn't have a rope to yard on (as other teams tend to do) so the top pitch was extremely dangerous, for both leader and belayer (dodging the constant stream of falling rocks at the hanging belay). A brilliant route with a very adventurous feel, although far harder overall than other North Devon E2's.
with Strife
A far more serious undertaking than anything else I've been on at E2. P1 is excellent, fairly well protected, sustained with a good variety of moves. P2 is tough, very loose and covered in plants. We didn't have a rope to yard on (as other teams tend to do) so the top pitch was extremely dangerous, for both leader and belayer (dodging the constant stream of falling rocks at the hanging belay). A brilliant route with a very adventurous feel, although far harder overall than other North Devon E2's.
with Strife
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Scooter Young ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 2014 2nd
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 26 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
with Alex Haslehurst
AlexD 21 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Led p2, pulling up on ab rope to finish as rock was very poor. impressive section of cliff, lots of fun.
Led p2, pulling up on ab rope to finish as rock was very poor. impressive section of cliff, lots of fun.
Marti999 21 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S bit damp at start, cult classic falling in to disrepear. fully recommend putting a rope down top groove to cross the very loose entry in to it very little gear up it. Needs some stakes.
with AlexD
bit damp at start, cult classic falling in to disrepear. fully recommend putting a rope down top groove to cross the very loose entry in to it very little gear up it. Needs some stakes.
with AlexD
Hidden ??, 2012 -
daviesxxx ??, 2011 -
pasbury ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Chad123 13 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Had wanted to do this one for years - Emily intimidated but did well on pitch 2. Still a 3 star classic I reckon - 2 and a half pitches of perfect crack and slab action then 10m of dangerous loose rock moving leftwards and a solid rib to finish (Pink Void variation) Leave a rope down the top pitch just in case which makes it less scary! I agree that overall feels more like E3 5c *** but I would grade the pitches 5b, 5b, 5c. Go do it before it all falls down!
with Emily
Had wanted to do this one for years - Emily intimidated but did well on pitch 2. Still a 3 star classic I reckon - 2 and a half pitches of perfect crack and slab action then 10m of dangerous loose rock moving leftwards and a solid rib to finish (Pink Void variation) Leave a rope down the top pitch just in case which makes it less scary! I agree that overall feels more like E3 5c *** but I would grade the pitches 5b, 5b, 5c. Go do it before it all falls down!
with Emily
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Paz 4 Feb, 2007 Lead dnf Onsighted P1+2 then got benighted on P3 and prussiked up a (kindly lowered) ab rope. Grade probably makes more sense as a 3* E3 5c adventure route than an old classic `normal' E2.
with TS2
Onsighted P1+2 then got benighted on P3 and prussiked up a (kindly lowered) ab rope. Grade probably makes more sense as a 3* E3 5c adventure route than an old classic `normal' E2.
with TS2
rob.grafton ??, 2007 Lead
with Paul McCann
with Paul McCann
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 31 Aug, 2002 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
markpollak 11 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 -
alan moore ??, 2000 Lead Sheer magic.
Sheer magic.
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
rurp ??, 2000 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with mark williams
with mark williams
goi.ashmore 5 Sep, 1999 Lead O/S On a boling day, with huge breakers at the base!
with Roy Thomas
On a boling day, with huge breakers at the base!
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27 Oct, 1997 AltLd
with Bill McKee
with Bill McKee
Hidden ?May, 1997 AltLd O/S
JulesV ??, 1997 Lead
with Charles Hagen
with Charles Hagen
leadmat ??, 1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
with Graham Fleury
Hidden 17 Sep, 1996 AltLd O/S
Mick King 25 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S Led P2
with Geoff Dawson
Led P2
with Geoff Dawson
FATBOYFAT ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Al Brady
with Al Brady
IanGilbertJones 2 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with GeoffQ
with GeoffQ
auld al ?May, 1995 AltLd O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Hidden ?Aug, 1994 -
groucho blondini 31 May, 1994 -
bazza ??, 1994 -
with Dave Yendal
with Dave Yendal
Rob Davies 28 Aug, 1993 Lead dnf Half-hearted attempt at P1
with Roy Lindsay
Half-hearted attempt at P1
with Roy Lindsay
mattnuttall 3 Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S lead P1
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
lead P1
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Ian Jones ?Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ?May, 1993 AltLd O/S
jcw ??, 1993 -
Hidden ??, 1993 AltLd
frank ramsay ??, 1993 Solo
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Nov, 1992 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 1992 Lead
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding 7 Sep, 1991 AltLd
whispering nic 19 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with Ali W
with Ali W
Andy Say 26 Apr, 1991 Lead
Hidden 28 Mar, 1991 AltLd rpt
Hidden 9 Sep, 1990 Lead rpt
steveb2006 2 Sep, 1990 AltLd Lead the big second pitch. First route of a fortnight in the South West
with Simon Mee
Lead the big second pitch. First route of a fortnight in the South West
with Simon Mee
Hidden 22 Jul, 1990 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
keefe ??, 1990 -
pauldrew ??, 1990 AltLd
with Dominic Leggett
with Dominic Leggett
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24 Oct, 1989 Lead
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Hidden 18 Oct, 1989 2nd O/S
Derek Ryden 7 Aug, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Krishna
with Krishna
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 23 Jul, 1989 Lead
with Keith Turton
with Keith Turton
Simon cook ?Aug, 1988 -
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
charlesmfrench ??, 1988 Lead O/S
davidalcock ??, 1988 Lead One of my favorite climbs ever. Used to be given 5c in my day!
with Philip Scorer
One of my favorite climbs ever. Used to be given 5c in my day!
with Philip Scorer
michael burrows 28 Aug, 1987 AltLd O/S
with ian nettleton
with ian nettleton
Tom V 16 Aug, 1987 AltLd Led P1
with Howie Darwin
Led P1
with Howie Darwin
Hidden ?Mar, 1987 AltLd O/S
eroica64 25 Jan, 1987 AltLd Led pitch 1. Brilliant climb.
with Julian Chapman
Led pitch 1. Brilliant climb.
with Julian Chapman
Hidden 28 May, 1986 AltLd O/S
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 31 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
UKB Shark 29 Jul, 1984 AltLd dog
with Bruce Woodley
with Bruce Woodley
Andy Edgar ??, 1984 Lead O/S
Mike C 26 Aug, 1983 2nd
with Mark Cadman
with Mark Cadman
mark-abz 25 Aug, 1983 Lead
with Mike C
with Mike C
Hidden 14 Nov, 1981 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 30 Oct, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Kev Howett
with Kev Howett
barny ?Aug, 1980 AltLd O/S Beautiful day, breeze off the sea and quite a bit of surf, foam on the beach. I led the first pitch by the direct start on LHS (has since fallen to the beach), very nice, then Simon led through to the top of the steep vertical crack - hard. I led through along the crack leftwards, but the foam blowing up the cliff coated my glasses, couldn't see, couldn't clean it off. Then it started raining. Got a belay, Simon led me off, up a horrible chossy corner - proper death stuff. Wished I'd worn a helmet, but we both survived.
with Simon Mumford
Beautiful day, breeze off the sea and quite a bit of surf, foam on the beach. I led the first pitch by the direct start on LHS (has since fallen to the beach), very nice, then Simon led through to the top of the steep vertical crack - hard. I led through along the crack leftwards, but the foam blowing up the cliff coated my glasses, couldn't see, couldn't clean it off. Then it started raining. Got a belay, Simon led me off, up a horrible chossy corner - proper death stuff. Wished I'd worn a helmet, but we both survived.
with Simon Mumford
duncan ?May, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
with Simon Reed
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 1978 AltLd
D Tempest 1 Jul, 1978 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 9 Apr, 1978 Lead rpt
with Gary
with Gary
Steve Lewis 26 Feb, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Pete, sharpie
with Pete, sharpie
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set