400m, 10 pitches. A brilliant routes which traverses directly underneath the huge arch.

I. Guerini, M. Villa 1976

Ticklists

10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mikenty 4 Oct AltLd O/S Fantastic big route. The arch pitch 6 was awesome.
Fantastic big route. The arch pitch 6 was awesome.
nick bamber 4 Oct AltLd O/S Great route
with mikenty
Great route
with mikenty
Hidden 26 Aug AltLd O/S
George Cox 17 Aug AltLd O/S First 4 pitches only, lead P2, P3 & P4
First 4 pitches only, lead P2, P3 & P4
Hidden 13 Aug Lead O/S
Hannes B 10 Aug AltLd
flinz 5 Aug -
with Nico, Andreas
with Nico, Andreas
Hidden 4 Aug Lead O/S
K Mckay 30 Jul AltLd O/S
with Paul Gibbison
with Paul Gibbison
mikeyjbs 25 Jul AltLd O/S
with Ru
with Ru
Hidden 25 Jul AltLd O/S
davidsouthgate 10 Jul AltLd O/S
with Sophie Moodie
with Sophie Moodie
Hidden 10 Jul Lead
FH 10 Jul 2nd
with SP
with SP
WillHempstead 5 Jul AltLd
iainballantyne 5 Jul AltLd O/S
Robertgiddy ?Jul AltLd dnf An apocalyptic downpour forced a faffy bail...
with Butler!
An apocalyptic downpour forced a faffy bail...
with Butler!
peter.herd ?Jul Lead
Rachel Hoyland 20 Sep, 2018 2nd β Climbed the first 6 pitches this day then Adi dropped a shoe, which we recovered on the abseil descent. On 29th we climbed the first 5 pitches of Serpe Riprese to acces the top 4 pitches of Kundalini and finish the route.
Climbed the first 6 pitches this day then Adi dropped a shoe, which we recovered on the abseil descent. On 29th we climbed the first 5 pitches of Serpe Riprese to acces the top 4 pitches of Kundalini and finish the route.
adi bryant 20 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Abbed off after P6 because I lost my shoe. Nobhead. Found it in a tree halfway down. Bonus! Used Serpe Represe (which is mostly dirty, loose and rubbish) to gain the last few pitches a week later. Glad we did coz they are ace.
Abbed off after P6 because I lost my shoe. Nobhead. Found it in a tree halfway down. Bonus! Used Serpe Represe (which is mostly dirty, loose and rubbish) to gain the last few pitches a week later. Glad we did coz they are ace.
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 5 Sep, 2018 Lead
daveclarke5 5 Sep, 2018 2nd Second from last pitch very exposed. Great first test for jamming gloves.
with Rich
Second from last pitch very exposed. Great first test for jamming gloves.
with Rich
cem 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Having been warned that pitches 5-7 were wet, we by-passed them via the variant slabby pitches given as an alternative in our guidebook. I led pitches 2, 4, the variant pitches and pitches 9 and 10. Why the British grading? The local grade is 6a+
with Krzysztof Rudko
Having been warned that pitches 5-7 were wet, we by-passed them via the variant slabby pitches given as an alternative in our guidebook. I led pitches 2, 4, the variant pitches and pitches 9 and 10. Why the British grading? The local grade is 6a+
with Krzysztof Rudko
aio 26 Aug, 2018 2nd
with mskngch
with mskngch
mskngch 26 Aug, 2018 Lead
with aio
with aio
SarahConnor 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd
MarkNicholasConnor 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S very memorable, pitch 3 hand crack amazing, pitch 4 would be quite bold without a 4 cam, and the exposure on the second to last pitch!!
very memorable, pitch 3 hand crack amazing, pitch 4 would be quite bold without a 4 cam, and the exposure on the second to last pitch!!
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 Lead
Fiona_H 15 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
with Owen
with Owen
Mbowell 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S All fairly steady. P3, crack/no.3 friend graveyard was great. P4 chimney pretty physical. Linked 3 and 4. There is a premature belay on P5 which meant P6 was 60m to complete down climb bit. Slight seepage under second roof pitch. Awesome!
All fairly steady. P3, crack/no.3 friend graveyard was great. P4 chimney pretty physical. Linked 3 and 4. There is a premature belay on P5 which meant P6 was 60m to complete down climb bit. Slight seepage under second roof pitch. Awesome!
GOS 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf Started at 2pm to allow time to dry but weather changed so ab off p3. Great climb nonetheless. I led p2. P1 felt big jams like tunnel diagonal. P3 loads of stuck cams in big crack
with Dermot O'Dwyer
Started at 2pm to allow time to dry but weather changed so ab off p3. Great climb nonetheless. I led p2. P1 felt big jams like tunnel diagonal. P3 loads of stuck cams in big crack
with Dermot O'Dwyer
James Oakes 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Slight balls up in the pitch with the down climb. Gaz climbed down too early and with no gear to protect me on second had to make a short abseil down to the level of the traverse. Great climb but not as good as luna.
with Fragmod
Slight balls up in the pitch with the down climb. Gaz climbed down too early and with no gear to protect me on second had to make a short abseil down to the level of the traverse. Great climb but not as good as luna.
with Fragmod
Fragmod 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd
James Smith 14 Apr, 2018 Lead Led all the way. Late start from waiting for the sun to dry the face off. Crack pitch was sensational (linked as one to the ledge in exactly 50m). Unfortunately the best part of the traverse under the roof was soaked - we persevered through the harder bit but it was slow going so abbed off some tat a little before the end of the traverse. Quite the mini adventure! Edit: the log of 2014 that mentions the viper at the second belay - this is very possibly still living at the same belay, we didn't see anything but heard a lot of hissing from the flake crack just below the stance. Watch out!
Led all the way. Late start from waiting for the sun to dry the face off. Crack pitch was sensational (linked as one to the ledge in exactly 50m). Unfortunately the best part of the traverse under the roof was soaked - we persevered through the harder bit but it was slow going so abbed off some tat a little before the end of the traverse. Quite the mini adventure! Edit: the log of 2014 that mentions the viper at the second belay - this is very possibly still living at the same belay, we didn't see anything but heard a lot of hissing from the flake crack just below the stance. Watch out!
alanblyth 6 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf
with Megan
with Megan
Julesthe1st 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route. But second half soaking wet. Which made for a somewhat more exciting ordeal. Was a big day for us. Led all pitches.
Great route. But second half soaking wet. Which made for a somewhat more exciting ordeal. Was a big day for us. Led all pitches.
PilarMartinez 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd
Naomi VR ?Sep, 2017 AltLd
Chris_barr 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Combined with Luna Nascente. Hot and dehydrated.
with Rob
Combined with Luna Nascente. Hot and dehydrated.
with Rob
Jo Stadden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Sophie Keltie
with Sophie Keltie
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 Lead
TwofoZeus 9 May, 2017 AltLd Alt lead with me starting at P2. Outstanding climbing through a wide variety of granite styles, bring lots of cams from micro to Friend 4 (double up to make it easier) P2 crux well protected, good fun and enjoyable P4 horrid offwidth to get into and out of to protect if cams are too small, hilarious nonetheless P5.5 (split the p5 from mistaking an abseil as anchor) more of the laybacking up a crack and slab, gorgeous P7 do not go offroute, the slab traverse is supposed to be on good holds but if you go up as you traverse you find yourself climbing 5a with no protection for 20m. P9 the move around is fun and suddenly you realise how high you really are as there is nothing but air under you (amazing). E1 5b is a good grade to describe commitment and exposure and runouts, but F6a+ Eurotrad with pegs is what it really is.
Alt lead with me starting at P2. Outstanding climbing through a wide variety of granite styles, bring lots of cams from micro to Friend 4 (double up to make it easier) P2 crux well protected, good fun and enjoyable P4 horrid offwidth to get into and out of to protect if cams are too small, hilarious nonetheless P5.5 (split the p5 from mistaking an abseil as anchor) more of the laybacking up a crack and slab, gorgeous P7 do not go offroute, the slab traverse is supposed to be on good holds but if you go up as you traverse you find yourself climbing 5a with no protection for 20m. P9 the move around is fun and suddenly you realise how high you really are as there is nothing but air under you (amazing). E1 5b is a good grade to describe commitment and exposure and runouts, but F6a+ Eurotrad with pegs is what it really is.
Michael Bortoluzzi 9 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P1, P3 (Amazing), most of P5 (Amazing. Stopped at what I thought was the anchor but was probably just an ab station, so Simon lead through to the actual belay), P6 (Amazing. Didn't bother with the downclimb section, no way I was missing out on the opportunity for a pendulum!), P8 & P10. So yeah, loved it! Don't think a UK grade does it justice, seems pointless to compare. I don't think my forearms ever came close to being pumped. The rest of my body was a lot more bashed though - cracks, slabs, smears, jams, offwidths, undercuts, laybacks... The best of granite in one outing.
Lead P1, P3 (Amazing), most of P5 (Amazing. Stopped at what I thought was the anchor but was probably just an ab station, so Simon lead through to the actual belay), P6 (Amazing. Didn't bother with the downclimb section, no way I was missing out on the opportunity for a pendulum!), P8 & P10. So yeah, loved it! Don't think a UK grade does it justice, seems pointless to compare. I don't think my forearms ever came close to being pumped. The rest of my body was a lot more bashed though - cracks, slabs, smears, jams, offwidths, undercuts, laybacks... The best of granite in one outing.
Rockley 30 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with ned_85
with ned_85
ned_85 30 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Rockley
with Rockley
tom_drysdale 18 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Led the first 3 pitches, stunning climbing in stunning weather. The hand crack on pitch three was amazing! Weather came in as we got close to the top and could only hear Connor shouting, not what he was saying. In the end we climbed round the corner to find Connor hanging from a peg having run out of rope, with some very battered fingertips after all the granite climbing. Stunning route though, and the exposure is amazing!
Led the first 3 pitches, stunning climbing in stunning weather. The hand crack on pitch three was amazing! Weather came in as we got close to the top and could only hear Connor shouting, not what he was saying. In the end we climbed round the corner to find Connor hanging from a peg having run out of rope, with some very battered fingertips after all the granite climbing. Stunning route though, and the exposure is amazing!
MSchobitz 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Would have enjoyed this much more if we hadn't been stuck behind a really slow team of 3! Some great pitches nonetheless!
with Robert W.
Would have enjoyed this much more if we hadn't been stuck behind a really slow team of 3! Some great pitches nonetheless!
with Robert W.
harry_lewis ?Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
CRead ?Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Weather fully came in about 3 pitches from the top......pretty exciting! So much exposure beneath the roof, definitely lives up to the hype
Weather fully came in about 3 pitches from the top......pretty exciting! So much exposure beneath the roof, definitely lives up to the hype
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andy Lagan 30 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S It has an easier crux, though more sustained than Luna Nascente. Pitch 3 was amazing. Pitch 4 not so amazing! The last two pitches were great too. Altogether a superb day out
It has an easier crux, though more sustained than Luna Nascente. Pitch 3 was amazing. Pitch 4 not so amazing! The last two pitches were great too. Altogether a superb day out
Dr Toph 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
martinov 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Radoslav Savov
with Radoslav Savov
Andy Peak 1 ?Aug, 2016 AltLd Nice route but got hoplesley lost trying to find are way down of the crag cairns are every were
Nice route but got hoplesley lost trying to find are way down of the crag cairns are every were
GeorgeNunn ?Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with George Reeder
with George Reeder
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
tomwhitchurch 15 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S With Iggy. Made great time until the heat hit.
With Iggy. Made great time until the heat hit.
EBailey 13 Jul, 2015 AltLd
jrobbings ?Jul, 2015 Lead
DorsetGareth 11 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead the odd pitches.
Lead the odd pitches.
cornishben 11 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
doctorgranite ??, 2015 AltLd
Sir Pilade 1 Sep, 2014 AltLd Combined with Luna Nascente. The combination is called KundaLuna and it's very challanging!
Combined with Luna Nascente. The combination is called KundaLuna and it's very challanging!
cat22 10 Jul, 2014 2nd dnf
HansStuttgart ?Jul, 2014 AltLd Very nice, except for a two meter water streak in the big traverse pitch:) The hand crack in pitch 3 is amazing
Very nice, except for a two meter water streak in the big traverse pitch:) The hand crack in pitch 3 is amazing
Sardien 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Wonderful wonderful! Led P1 and the off-width, the 2nd last pitch is really good and very exposed. Found out from the team following us that we had shared the belay of P2 with a viper hiding behind our cam!
with nawface
Wonderful wonderful! Led P1 and the off-width, the 2nd last pitch is really good and very exposed. Found out from the team following us that we had shared the belay of P2 with a viper hiding behind our cam!
with nawface
alice_loudon 9 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 5 Sep, 2013 -
sparbus 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf Rain at the top overlaps forced an abseil off.
with FedUp
Rain at the top overlaps forced an abseil off.
with FedUp
richjm ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Josh Fawcett
with Josh Fawcett
Lenny 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf
with John
with John
Hidden 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori ?Apr, 2012 2nd O/S first two pitches of Kundalini, then Cochise (6a+)
with Luca Maspes
first two pitches of Kundalini, then Cochise (6a+)
with Luca Maspes
brockers 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Absolutely fantastic route! The 6a+ 'crux' pitch, as others have commented was a one move wonder. A great line, the off-width felt pretty bold...!
Absolutely fantastic route! The 6a+ 'crux' pitch, as others have commented was a one move wonder. A great line, the off-width felt pretty bold...!
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd
haydng 18 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Like others have said, the 6a+ part is not the crux. Fantastic pitch under the roof probably only HVS 5b though.
with Dave
Like others have said, the 6a+ part is not the crux. Fantastic pitch under the roof probably only HVS 5b though.
with Dave
Hidden 2 Aug, 2011 Lead
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Pleasant climbing. slowed down a bit by group above.
with tash, ali k
Pleasant climbing. slowed down a bit by group above.
with tash, ali k
harold walmsley 1 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Feels more like E2 at the offwidth if you don't have big enough friends
with Clive Turpin
Feels more like E2 at the offwidth if you don't have big enough friends
with Clive Turpin
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Chad123 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Tough E1, possibly E1 5c on crux but super classic whatever the grade with lovely traverse pitches and a sneaky route through the overhangs, watch out for the tricky chimney pitch, the supposed 6a+ crux is one of the easiest pitches on the route!
with sgl
Tough E1, possibly E1 5c on crux but super classic whatever the grade with lovely traverse pitches and a sneaky route through the overhangs, watch out for the tricky chimney pitch, the supposed 6a+ crux is one of the easiest pitches on the route!
with sgl
sgl 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with chad
with chad
Daniel Wicks 23 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Birdo
with Birdo
tomdude 2 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S brilliant. very varied climbing. longest, hardest route yet!
brilliant. very varied climbing. longest, hardest route yet!
robertmichaellovell 2 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with tomdude
with tomdude
Hidden 12 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 1 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
AJ007 ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
with John
with John
Chris the Tall 11 Aug, 2005 AltLd Gaz led the 3 5b pitches (2,4,9), I led a couple of 5a. Plans to continue and try Luna Nascente were thwarted by the rain that hit us on the 8th pitch
with Gaz Parry
Gaz led the 3 5b pitches (2,4,9), I led a couple of 5a. Plans to continue and try Luna Nascente were thwarted by the rain that hit us on the 8th pitch
with Gaz Parry
tom.e ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
NickJH ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with TJackson
with TJackson
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ?Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Andy Munro
with Andy Munro
lost.arrow 25 Jul, 1997 AltLd
with Paul Bollom
with Paul Bollom
lost.arrow 4 Aug, 1996 -
Tom V 21 Aug, 1991 AltLd
with Glenn Watson
with Glenn Watson
Nick Biven 26 Jul, 1989 AltLd
with Ray Jenkins
with Ray Jenkins
Hidden 17 Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S
Hammy 3 Aug, 1981 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set