60m, 2 pitches. Start at the foot of a wide chimney in the left edge of the face reached by a short scramble.
1. 39m(5a)Climb the chimney for 5m (often damp, but juggy) past the first steepening where a rising flake line leads R out onto the arete. Follow this, making a step left to pass a small roof into the sustained groove above. Belay in an obvious niche or on a ledge 3m above.
2. 21m(4c) Continue directly via an obvious large flake.

Allan Austin, NJ Soper and Eric Metcalf. 1962

Ticklists

Allan Austin Classics, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, A Lakeland E1 Odessey, UK Holiday Plans, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Simon Yearsley 24 Aug - Rested on gear trying to find a dry sequence through the slightly damp roof. Second time I'd done the route, but my memory had dulled somewhat over the intervening 37 years.
Rested on gear trying to find a dry sequence through the slightly damp roof. Second time I'd done the route, but my memory had dulled somewhat over the intervening 37 years.
Hidden 13 Jul AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 29 Jun AltLd O/S
with FranC
with FranC
Hidden 29 Jun AltLd O/S
lanky 27 Jun Lead Abbed of after first pitch. Good but really hot...
with Del
Abbed of after first pitch. Good but really hot...
with Del
Delyth 26 Jun 2nd We only did pitch 1
with lanky
We only did pitch 1
with lanky
GeoffG 19 Jun -
JohnHartley 18 May Lead O/S Great route!
Great route!
bowlingj 18 May 2nd O/S
joeflan 22 Apr Lead O/S
with CMoore
with CMoore
CMoore 22 Apr 2nd rpt
with joeflan
with joeflan
Ramon Marin 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Alan James
with Alan James
Alan James - UKC and UKH 5 Sep, 2018 2nd
Hidden 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
CMoore 25 Aug, 2018 Solo rpt
katy_abra 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
gritstone7 10 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Led both pitches
Led both pitches
steveb2006 10 Jul, 2018 2nd Great to do again after 22 years - good lead by Val
Great to do again after 22 years - good lead by Val
mark4344 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Fantastic well protected face climbing. First pitch a real delight. Top end HVS, never too hard.
with Matt Payne
Fantastic well protected face climbing. First pitch a real delight. Top end HVS, never too hard.
with Matt Payne
NickJH 24 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Andy Cross
with Andy Cross
cheeky 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P2
with Neilaw
P2
with Neilaw
Graham Westbrook 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch. Brilliant! Hard HVS? A lot easier than Grand Slam.
Led 1st pitch. Brilliant! Hard HVS? A lot easier than Grand Slam.
richardashe 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 28 May, 2018 AltLd Led p 1
with Jonah Jones
Led p 1
with Jonah Jones
Hidden 23 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S Spooky pitch which is never desperate, but engaging all the way
Spooky pitch which is never desperate, but engaging all the way
Hidden 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
lucybradbury 6 May, 2018 2nd Mim's first E1, mega pitch!
with miriamd
Mim's first E1, mega pitch!
with miriamd
chris m fisher 6 May, 2018 2nd
with Graham
with Graham
markalmack 6 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Al Evans ??, 2018 Lead
with Dave Parker
with Dave Parker
Hidden 15 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
youwillfindjimbo 15 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1, felt bold at start but was pretty damp and was wearing awkward rucksack for Dolomites training, humbling experience!
Led P1, felt bold at start but was pretty damp and was wearing awkward rucksack for Dolomites training, humbling experience!
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Scooter Young 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd Rob p1 me p2
Rob p1 me p2
Rob Rocket 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S P1
P1
jackob 20 May, 2017 AltLd Awesome first pitch, second pitch not so good, awkward descent
with Sam parker
Awesome first pitch, second pitch not so good, awkward descent
with Sam parker
Sam Parker 19 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jack Brooks
with Jack Brooks
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
DavidR 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Hol led the key first pitch; I led the second. The first pitch particularly is a fantastic, engaging climb.
Hol led the key first pitch; I led the second. The first pitch particularly is a fantastic, engaging climb.
Arty 19 Jul, 2016 2nd 2nd, Peter made light work of it. Due to 30 degree heat and feeling abit groggy I seemed to float up without much awareness of surroundings
with peter sterling, Rachel S
2nd, Peter made light work of it. Due to 30 degree heat and feeling abit groggy I seemed to float up without much awareness of surroundings
with peter sterling, Rachel S
Rachel S 19 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Pete S, Arty
with Pete S, Arty
john lynch 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S stunning long pitch
stunning long pitch
chrisdjackson 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
Allanfairfechan ??, 2016 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
Misha 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Colin Dyer 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd Every move from start to finish on this route is brilliant. Never desperate, bold start.
with CMoore
Every move from start to finish on this route is brilliant. Never desperate, bold start.
with CMoore
CMoore 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd
martrin 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
with Sarah Kekus
Scooter Young ??, 2015 Lead
jcw ??, 2015 -
Shaw Brown 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with GPN
with GPN
GPN 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1, great moves on positive holds and good gear all the way :)
Led P1, great moves on positive holds and good gear all the way :)
Pete Wimbush 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd Led pitch 2
Led pitch 2
petegunn 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd Superb climbing and quite absorbing climbing. Very bold to start, though might not have gone up the gully far enough.
Superb climbing and quite absorbing climbing. Very bold to start, though might not have gone up the gully far enough.
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd
steve prior ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Very good sustained climbing on first pitch. Protection good but spaced. E1 a fair grade, if you compare it with other lakes E1s like gimmer string, Capela that are not as hard.
with Andy C
Very good sustained climbing on first pitch. Protection good but spaced. E1 a fair grade, if you compare it with other lakes E1s like gimmer string, Capela that are not as hard.
with Andy C
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 -
Tom.Priestley 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Got a bit lost on P1. Got very lost on the dodgy scramble approach.
Lead P2. Got a bit lost on P1. Got very lost on the dodgy scramble approach.
Scott Quinn 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S cool route - the climbing is never hard, but finding the right line is tricky.
cool route - the climbing is never hard, but finding the right line is tricky.
Gudge 10 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S P1. Unpleasant start but sweet afterwards!
with ned_85
P1. Unpleasant start but sweet afterwards!
with ned_85
ned_85 10 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with Gudge
with Gudge
chris smith 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S Awesome climb, abseil station at the top of first pitch incase you want to ab off after doing the best bit.
Awesome climb, abseil station at the top of first pitch incase you want to ab off after doing the best bit.
Hidden 18 May, 2014 2nd
Ian Jones 17 May, 2014 2nd O/S Exposed and therefore E1.
with Tim Clarke
Exposed and therefore E1.
with Tim Clarke
Hidden 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
David Sherratt ?Oct, 2013 -
David Sherratt 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd
domskezz 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Si
with Si
sishaw 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Julian Cooper 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with Stuart Knott
with Stuart Knott
Andy Chadwick ??, 2013 -
richyg 11 Aug, 2012 -
claregardiner 11 Aug, 2012 Lead
Julian Cooper ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Knott
with Stuart Knott
Hidden 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Rachel S 24 May, 2012 AltLd O/S P2
with Cal
P2
with Cal
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
JonG ??, 2012 -
Nigel Coe 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Pete Kelly
with Pete Kelly
bryan p 11 Jun, 2011 - Very technical, strenuous, sustained pitch. Steep and often laybacking on thin edges. Undergraded.
with David Small
Very technical, strenuous, sustained pitch. Steep and often laybacking on thin edges. Undergraded.
with David Small
Exodus 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Tim, Gareth
with Tim, Gareth
gwh 24 Apr, 2011 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz 22 Apr, 2011 -
tobydunford 19 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
flatnose 9 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
with Antony Mawyer
with Antony Mawyer
tmawer 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Lovely day and great route.
with Glynn
Lovely day and great route.
with Glynn
twoplates 27 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
beds74 11 Oct, 2010 AltLd I started. Fine route.
with J1PEF
I started. Fine route.
with J1PEF
J1PEF 11 Oct, 2010 AltLd
Conan 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Great route. 5a,4b Intimidating start with gear out of reach going up onto arete. Great gear all the way up after that. Great exposure.
with Ken Taylor
Great route. 5a,4b Intimidating start with gear out of reach going up onto arete. Great gear all the way up after that. Great exposure.
with Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Conan Harrod
with Conan Harrod
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Daniels735 15 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with Chris Waters
with Chris Waters
Hidden 22 May, 2010 AltLd
brockers 22 May, 2010 AltLd Led the main 5a pitch. Great route. Quite sustained in parts though the climbing was never really hard. Gear was always around when I -really- wanted it. Fabulous main pitch.
Led the main 5a pitch. Great route. Quite sustained in parts though the climbing was never really hard. Gear was always around when I -really- wanted it. Fabulous main pitch.
clams 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
suffolknick 17 Apr, 2010 2nd dog Wasted a lot of energy with a difficult nut removal. V sustained - awesome!
with clams
Wasted a lot of energy with a difficult nut removal. V sustained - awesome!
with clams
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
S Lynch 26 Sep, 2009 -
cat22 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 -
decs 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Kiwi Steve
with Kiwi Steve
Si dH 21 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf The bottom was soaked so did a variation start from lower down the arete below the big perched spike. Got back up to the route, but then saw that the start of the groove was wet to and I couldnt see any gear ahead. While I was deliberating it started raining again, so bailed out.
with Neil Furniss
The bottom was soaked so did a variation start from lower down the arete below the big perched spike. Got back up to the route, but then saw that the start of the groove was wet to and I couldnt see any gear ahead. While I was deliberating it started raining again, so bailed out.
with Neil Furniss
bridget143 14 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S I led 1st crux pitch
with Sion
I led 1st crux pitch
with Sion
chris m fisher 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Dan M
with Dan M
Hidden 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
tomhull 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with adam noble
with adam noble
nakedave 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Tom Hull, Adam Noble
with Tom Hull, Adam Noble
rholdswo ?Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
alisonk ?May, 2008 2nd
with Matt
with Matt
Swotson 8 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S Beautiful day. Awesome Crag. Fantastic surroundings. Pip fell off, was shaken up and started running home
with Ian Athroll
Beautiful day. Awesome Crag. Fantastic surroundings. Pip fell off, was shaken up and started running home
with Ian Athroll
gforce 31 Jul, 2007 AltLd
with kevg
with kevg
kevg 31 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Graham
with Graham
NickJH ?Jun, 2007 2nd
with Steve W
with Steve W
Different Steve 26 May, 2007 AltLd O/S Led P1, nice pitch.
Led P1, nice pitch.
ewen 12 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
John Kettle 12 Apr, 2007 AltLd
Ian Hinkins ?Sep, 2006 Lead
duncana 26 Aug, 2006 2nd Technical climbing up first pitch, in drizzle too!
with Pippa Archer
Technical climbing up first pitch, in drizzle too!
with Pippa Archer
DaveHK 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Richard Jewell
with Richard Jewell
Shaw Brown 4 Jun, 2006 AltLd First half of the climb is not as well protected as you might expect.
with cliff brown
First half of the climb is not as well protected as you might expect.
with cliff brown
Sankey 30 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 30 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S P1 lead 5a; P2 2nd 4c
with Sankey
P1 lead 5a; P2 2nd 4c
with Sankey
GuyM ??, 2006 -
with neil, jim
with neil, jim
Hidden 9 Jul, 2005 2nd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 9 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
TrevorCruse 10 Sep, 2004 2nd O/S
with Roger
with Roger
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?Aug, 2004 Lead
with Andy Hyslop
with Andy Hyslop
Hidden 12 Jul, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead
MaNimal 10 Aug, 2003 Lead
with Jo Larty
with Jo Larty
Mark Davies PK ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Keith
with Keith
richgac 12 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S Sustained and mentally taxing. Felt like a sandbag at HVS.
with Adam Ellwood
Sustained and mentally taxing. Felt like a sandbag at HVS.
with Adam Ellwood
Neil Ireson ?Jul, 2003 Lead
with Jane
with Jane
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead
CHADWICK64 ??, 2003 -
with Peter Clarkson
with Peter Clarkson
mikej 24 Jul, 2000 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Hidden ?Sep, 1998 AltLd
KendalIanO 18 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S Had fallen off this(about a 20 footer) trying to lead this in 1990, so was well motivated to make a better job of it this time. The difficulty is so well sustained that the climb does merit E1.
with Carol Emmons
Had fallen off this(about a 20 footer) trying to lead this in 1990, so was well motivated to make a better job of it this time. The difficulty is so well sustained that the climb does merit E1.
with Carol Emmons
djmarko75 ?Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
John Southworth ?Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
EddieA 31 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S W led the main pitch; we finished up the top pitches of Medusa wall
with Winkie O'N.
W led the main pitch; we finished up the top pitches of Medusa wall
with Winkie O'N.
Chris Ellis 25 Jun, 1995 AltLd
rurp ??, 1995 Lead
with mark weatherhead
with mark weatherhead
Hidden 14 Jul, 1994 -
PeteCheung ??, 1994 AltLd
with Ian and John Griffiths
with Ian and John Griffiths
Mick King 30 Aug, 1993 AltLd Lead P1
with Simon Walsh
Lead P1
with Simon Walsh
pete johnson 20 Jun, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Pete Swanson
with Pete Swanson
Neil R 23 May, 1992 AltLd
with Richard W
with Richard W
Derek Furze ??, 1992 Lead
with Rick
with Rick
Derek Furze ??, 1992 Lead
with Rick
with Rick
Billg 5 May, 1990 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
with Jon Barton
rob.grafton ?Apr, 1990 AltLd
with barry maybank
with barry maybank
Andy Say 9 Sep, 1989 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 16 Jul, 1989 -
with Walter Phipps
with Walter Phipps
Hidden 24 Jun, 1989 AltLd
Campbell42 17 Jun, 1989 AltLd O/S Climbed route for first time in early Seventies with Pete Calam and Malcolm Lomas.
with Mick Mason
Climbed route for first time in early Seventies with Pete Calam and Malcolm Lomas.
with Mick Mason
Hidden 9 May, 1989 -
Tony Buckley ?Jun, 1988 AltLd
with Tony Jinks
with Tony Jinks
scree ?May, 1988 -
with Dave H
with Dave H
Rich Kirby ??, 1988 AltLd O/S
with The General (P.Henderson)
with The General (P.Henderson)
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Jean Williamson
with Jean Williamson
Dave Rumney ??, 1987 2nd
steveb2006 22 Jun, 1986 Lead Merv is less keen for a second route (after CP) as his feet hurt. He spots a distant cloud and suggests a storm is iminent. In the end he seconds in his KSBs and of course the weather stays perfect.
with Mervyn Dudley
Merv is less keen for a second route (after CP) as his feet hurt. He spots a distant cloud and suggests a storm is iminent. In the end he seconds in his KSBs and of course the weather stays perfect.
with Mervyn Dudley
Steve Crowe 21 Jun, 1986 Lead O/S Karin led it 17 May 1992
Karin led it 17 May 1992
uphillnow 10 May, 1986 Lead
with Andy Bennett
with Andy Bennett
Hidden 29 Sep, 1985 2nd O/S
Bob 29 Sep, 1985 2nd O/S
with D. Johnston, J. Brierly
with D. Johnston, J. Brierly
Bruce Kerr 18 May, 1985 Lead
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Hidden ??, 1985 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 AltLd
with Spuz
with Spuz
mark-abz ?Jun, 1984 Lead
with Walter P
with Walter P
charlesmfrench 29 Apr, 1984 AltLd O/S S,2,L.
S,2,L.
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Martin Bennett 8 Jul, 1983 -
with RA
with RA
Hammy 30 May, 1982 AltLd
with Mark Lowe
with Mark Lowe
Hamish Leslie ??, 1982 Lead O/S
with Lee Richards
with Lee Richards
Simon Yearsley 21 Jun, 1981 -
Roy Stuart ??, 1981 Lead O/S Hard at the time. Deffo E1 in those days!
with Hugh Stewart
Hard at the time. Deffo E1 in those days!
with Hugh Stewart
Hidden 17 May, 1980 AltLd
robinsi197 ??, 1980 -
with Barbara
with Barbara
Dave Musgrove 26 Aug, 1979 AltLd
with Alan Moss
with Alan Moss
Pedro50 5 Jul, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Chris Calow
with Chris Calow
Hidden 31 Aug, 1975 AltLd
Hidden 2 Aug, 1975 Lead
cenotaphcorner 17 May, 1975 2nd O/S A lovely climb!
with Paul Ingham
A lovely climb!
with Paul Ingham
Falko 17 May, 1975 Lead O/S
with Al W.
with Al W.
Tony Marr 1 Jun, 1967 AltLd O/S
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
37 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 51
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set