40m. Described in the guide as single pitch, but it's worth considering climbing it in two to lessen rope drag. The first section is amenable, after which the climbing is considered hard for the grade. Start between two trees on the mossy stone. Take the right-hand crack to a small ledge and then keep right until you reach a big ledge and a tree (belay here if splitting the climb). Climb the left-hand of two cracks, keeping left at first, and then trending right; then climb directly up a nice groove to the top. N.B. some trees here are dead: belay from a live one to the left + possible nut backup. Abseil from a big tree well over to the left, or walk off (up to a sketchy path and then keep going right until you hit the steps).

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye, A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe.

Ollie B 04/Feb Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
Hidden 21/Jan Lead O/S
ali.scott 03/Jan Lead O/S

Surprisingly awkward - I don't think I would argue with soft VS.

Stanners 28/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook, Martin Stanfield
Hidden 07/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/16 Lead O/S
springfall2008 29/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Nice route, all the moves can be HS but only with some thought...

robertmills4 15/Sep/16 2nd
chris cockbain 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Chris Holmes 31/Aug/16 2nd
hairy51 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Felt like a good adventure. Did as one pitch, rope drag wasn't too bad. It ate a lot of gear! Felt like HS, but a reasonably scary HS in places.

lieraza 16/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Getting in some leading practice, led very short first section to the tree

with Steve
Ian Stirrups 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Thought this hard, definitely VS for the first section of the crack after the tree. Climb seemed consistently awkward.

with Sue
ScottTalbot 28/May/16 AltLd dog

I did the second pitch. Wasn't sure that I'd taken the correct line, but the description here matches my line. My guidebooks description made it sound like I should have moved further right at some point!?!

with Mick Ward
Elaine Reed 24/May/16 2nd
with Kendall
PawelP 14/May/16 AltLd

we were aiming for The Crack route on the left but accidentally we did at least upper part of pappilon, belaying from horizontal dead tree. Very enjoyable.

with Spleen
Leonhamnett 05/May/16 Lead O/S
with James Rucinski
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead
steve-grigg 21/Apr/16 2nd O/S
matthew.n.u 21/Apr/16 Lead

Bit off route at the start and finished almost in the dark but still a cool route.

springfall2008 07/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch, and belayed from the ledge with the tree on it. Mark lead the second pitch which I agree was fairly tough for an HS, perhaps easy VS?

DanH9883 25/Mar/16 Lead
with Ellie
EllieCotterill 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Dan
DanielBryan 23/Mar/16 Lead

Super climb! Didn't find the route finding too bad.

with Josh
JoshChappell 23/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Sam Watson 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

No idea where I was going, but a fun warm up route. Longer than expected.

bpmclimb 05/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Mar/16 2nd β
EllieCotterill ??/2016 2nd
with Dan
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Cheese Monkey 04/Dec/15 Lead rpt
with Claire W
Wendy Watthews 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Tom FP
Skip 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
dvincen6 27/Sep/15 Lead
with Lucy
WillAndrew 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Sph144
Soph Armshaw 24/Sep/15 2nd
AngelaC 20/Sep/15 AltLd
PanzerHanzler 18/Sep/15 Lead rpt
stevemace85 18/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Luke90 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Avon Man 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Derek
Hidden 09/Aug/15 -
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead
StefanP ?/Aug/15 Lead
tom0129 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
MikeC59 28/Jul/15 Lead

Lead second pitch

with David E
BStar 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Top end of HS, I would have been happy for this to be VS really. Nice steep climbing, bit of a dirty exit.

will484 16/Jul/15 2nd
with BStar
natlavender 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S

rope got stuck on a tree.....had MAJOR issues pulling it up behind me!!! Made a lovely route BLOODY hard work!!!!

with Malcolm Phelps
danieleaston 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Stephan
gingerbex 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Tried to lead. Did to tree. Couldn't do the crack but ? Wrong one. Jason did rest. Hard for hs

with Jason Bailey
Steve Bartle 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin V-C
JGriffiths 03/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 27/May/15 2nd O/S
the.proud.man 12/May/15 2nd O/S

An excersize in routefinding. Absailed off the top in the dark.

steve_gibbs 25/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Alex Tibbs
abtibbs 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Alex Wieczorek 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
John1458 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
tommy.henriksson78 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Barratt
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead
avonclimber 19/Apr/15 Lead
Steve Woollard 10/Apr/15 2nd
with Donald
crater 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with steve
Mr. K 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
KarlH 04/Apr/15 2nd

First climb in 10 months. Felt hard!

Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead
Fatclimber 21/Feb/15 2nd

Got very lost, but we think we did this.

Deako 21/Feb/15 Lead
Marti999 31/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
steve_gibbs 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Hassard
markfromstoke 07/Sep/14 Lead
with Adrian
MJAS82 05/Sep/14 2nd
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
CatMc ?/Sep/14 2nd
with clams
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd
ju59 24/Aug/14 2nd
with Hugh
birthers 23/Aug/14 2nd
caroline256 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Echna 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
SiyP 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with McCoy
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jameshadley 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice long route. Start is tricky to find and can't see the full route from the ground. Start on the mossy rock between 2 trees and bear left at the top, avoiding looser & dirtier righthand groove

with Elsa
Chris Sieradzki 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Another route on LH crag which is hard for grade. I wanted my friend who is new to trad climbing to lead this. Luckily he refused it otherwise it could be a tough battle for him. Not really 2 *

petersheppard 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
joe gallacher 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice route , think i took the rh crack in error ,,,bloody hard error...no harm done , good value for its grade.

with Peter Sheppard, Allan Green
dale.young 20/Jul/14 2nd
with Chris sieradzki
danbirkby 18/Jul/14 Lead
with Gordon
Pike 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Garbage. Torturous route finding, grease, dirt and half of the Wye valley vegetation growing out of it. A pair of garden shears would have of more use than a gear rack. Two stars??? Two piles of steamy poo.

with Mark Condon
Hidden 29/Jun/14 -
brian watson 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rob84 22/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin
cjohn62 08/Jun/14 AltLd


with gareth
JClimb 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Stuart MacLachlin
stujamac 31/May/14 Lead O/S
wave1art 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Last climb. Horribly wet and slippery to start with. Bitty and not a great route.

with Mark Wren
squicky 17/May/14 Lead

Didn't have a guidebook but it looks like this is what I climbed, which is good because it was what I was aiming for. The route finding was tortuous but following the line of least resistance got me there in the end. Quite sustained but plenty of rest and plenty of gear so I think fair enough for HS, especially given the grading on right crag.

SteveJB 24/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice evening climbing with Alec Roberts

JonnyFawell 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
Big Lee 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good route with plenty of descent climbing. Hard for the grade.

annak 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Armstrong
AndrewP 10/Mar/14 2nd

A great lead from Felix.

FelixPeterken 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Quite hard, but liked it. Can be a bit tricky navigating.

with AndrewP
alastairbegley 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt

Pretty sure we went a different way to my first time on this. Good climb on a sunny day.

67hours 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Another good route, although Owen struggled somewhat on the moves in the middle and shouted a lot.

with Oweeeen
sheelba 01/Mar/14 2nd
will_benfold 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Angus McBride, Sarah Woodrow
Pintsize 11/Jan/14 2nd O/S
with Angus McBride, Will Benfold
Hidden ??/2014 -
rich H0001 ??/2014 Lead
Ian JL 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd
islandlynx ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Amy
MD 31/Aug/13 2nd
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lost the will to climb at the top section and the strength to haul the ropes up any further. The most bewildering route finding exercise yet.

with Mike D
fishinwater 07/Aug/13 Lead
with Chris W
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead
mullermn 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Monkey
Monk 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

A satisfying line, but the climbing doesn't flow particularly nicely.

with Andy A, Kylie, Luke
pheotleyr 15/May/13 Lead O/S

2 sets of hexes useful.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/May/13 2nd O/S
with Peter
Eoinparker 12/May/13 2nd O/S

Not as nice as billed

HassenBali 12/May/13 Lead O/S

Exposed in parts, satisfying to finish.

p3tersen 12/May/13 2nd
madguernseyboy 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Wildstyle 27/Apr/13 2nd dnf
ElBarto 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Excellent. Split in to two pitches as some of it was a bit damp and I didn't fancy the stretch in nearly 40m of rope if I came off near the top. 4a and 4b moves all the way.

with Ric
bonelessivar 15/Feb/13 2nd
with Alan
haz rudry ??/2013 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Kyuzo 01/Dec/12 -
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
saraguti 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

hard for the grade but beautiful

with chris
Deary65 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Pero 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Matt1234 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Gareth T 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Amber
Amber Chaloner 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Screamed all the way 40m. On the wrong route. Should have been on the severe!

localboy 28/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Got up first crack and halfway up the second before my arms gave out. It's all there but has some exposed moves.

with Simon C
simonf 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Dark. Led to get Mike's gear back, then got rope stuck after abseil.

with Simon, Mike
timreynolds 19/Aug/12 Lead
Jonners 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Two pitches, long absail.

Country_Boy 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Great cimbing, quite exposed.

with Anton
colinthomson5 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Maybe started on the Crack and finished on Papillon, great climb any how!!

with John Hillman
Bryan M 14/Jul/12 Lead
klo1981 27/May/12 2nd dog
with Iain
TR909 27/May/12 Lead O/S
climbingchippie 27/May/12 Lead O/S
PaulWatson 22/May/12 2nd rpt

well, crackillon more like. Good route still though

with Tony, Rosy
jdgaventa 05/May/12 Lead
with katy
steveprice.exmouth 23/Apr/12 Lead

Better split into 2 pitches, or take a ton of gear

with Ellie Woods
Sarah Welsh 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 21/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/12 2nd
Ybot Htulk 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Sonya
Phil Layton 25/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Just too knackered after 'Cadillac'

with Justin B
pad-rat ??/2012 -
mrfeebus ??/2012 -
98%monkey 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

This is not an HS. Committing and serious. Needs a strong lead. cold and Windy November day may have made it feel worse.

with Nicki
Mistee 26/Nov/11 2nd β
with Phil
Nick Russell 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Split into 2 pitches. As the consensus suggests, hard in the grade

Hidden 03/Oct/11 2nd
crossdressingrodney 07/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Stays dry in rain with strong enough westerlies!

with Andy B
jon_ridley 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S

unusual, fun.

Emily Cropton 03/Sep/11 Lead
andy dunn 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Big Ben, J
martin one 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Neil Nand
ElBarto 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good climb that's worth doing. Some rocks are a little bit lose though. Maybe slightly harder than most HS but not by to much.

Different Steve 15/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Emma Hawkins
petecallaghan 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Not sure I found the correct start of this. What I climbed was dirty and vegetated at the start, clearly not worth any stars

with Simon Berring, Emma Grant
Hidden 16/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Blue68 25/Jun/11 -
grumpyoldjanner 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Found it hard for the grade although there is plenty of gear if you can be bothered to drag enough up with you.

with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins
Deano100 25/May/11 2nd

Great climb, last 20m is really good. Done in 2 pitches on first of AMC regular Wednesday evening climbs.

JamieTown 01/May/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Long pitch, high in the grade with several 4b sections, but good rests and gear so HS seems the right grade. Take hexes and plenty of draws (I used 13 runners and could easily have put more in).

with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong 24/Apr/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
Gregthebadger 07/Apr/11 2nd
alexanderjwatts 19/Mar/11 Lead

more like a VS, exit groove is sustained...

mrfeebus ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Garron 28/Nov/10 Lead O/S
JenDurden 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
James Moyle 21/Oct/10 2nd O/S

HS 4b? I suppose possibly, but I've definitely climbed a number of VS climbs that are a similar standard

with piers cunliffe
d_meacher 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Lucy Rouse, Jess patel
Becky C 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Duncan
Andrew Sloan 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade.Led as 2 pitches.

with Tim
hotfeet 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Keith
gilbert 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

felt hard for the grade.. maybe because I haven't climbed outside for a wee while. Lovely day!

with Jonathan Percival
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 2nd
with Gilbert
muttley_109 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Gary Lewis
Rob Exile Ward 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Started up what might have been the Crack, but was loose and dirty, so finished up this. Pretty good climb I thought, but tough for HS.

with Sam Ward
martinp 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Adam
AdamP 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Martin
martinp 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with IanH
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd
wilchivs 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 22/May/10 Lead O/S
lizzie789 22/May/10 2nd O/S
PaulWatson 13/May/10 Lead O/S

Stunning climb, best lead to date and harder than any VS I have led. Very steep for an HS, long, varied, sustained and really makes you think. Good rock and well protected provided you take loads of big gear and long runners.

with Dave P
David Qualtrough ?/May/10 -
stuart34 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Tim Ducker 20/Apr/10 2nd
martinp 16/Apr/10 2nd
with Alan C
PanzerHanzler 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S
DaNo123 07/Apr/10 Lead
with martin, Hanzler
petedunford183 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S
btc 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Susannah Ellis
James_86 14/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Jacob
Stone Muppet 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Looser than the guidebook said I think - fresh rock scars right at the start, near the loose block someone else mentioned and also on the finish. Hence fair at VS I think. Edit: on later inspection of fallen rock on the ground, it appears a large flake has come away from the first section.

with ah
Jacob k-d ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 17/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 17/Sep/09 Lead
RossT 16/Aug/09 Lead
aged_ape ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd β
Sam W 04/Jul/09 Lead
AlexDexter ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with anthony nichols
MikeC59 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
TimPerkin 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
tobydunford 26/May/09 Lead O/S
jamie ward 26/May/09 2nd
with Toby Dunford
chrisallan 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Flashy 06/May/09 Lead O/S
five 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with TW
chrisjones199 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Mark Batey 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Hash Popat
hash 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Janette
brady 21/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Micky
mickyconnor 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Nice line. Watch out for the huge wobbly block at the begining of the finishing groove.

with steve
FayeG 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Great climb, rubbish anchor at the top unless you go all the way back. Worst bit is the descent - we missed the path back to the crag and were fumbling through the woods for an hour or so!

with Netty
BenTiffin 20/Feb/09 Lead
with Ellen Wolfenden
Rob84 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Jonboy
martinazando 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
al99 11/Oct/08 2nd O/S
martinazando 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
lukehodson 03/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Sam Smith, Greg Pittam
Hidden 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Humpty Dangler 10/Aug/08 2nd

An entertaining and sustained outing that definitely felt harder than HS. Plenty of moves and variety make this route deserve its stars.

Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
The Reaper 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with frank mckenna
PhillipG ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
freemanTom ?/Jun/08 Lead
with Jenny Watson
JimBee ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ian Whitehead
Piers 20/May/08 Lead β
with Charlie Goldblatt
DannyK 16/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with pep
My Gravity 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Ben P
haydng 30/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
deklan ?/Feb/08 Lead
Matt Tranter 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Split the climb into 2 at the big tree. Less rope drag and more gear for the top pitch. (It eats gear.) Very loose block on the top. Good route.

with Jen Edwards
Jen79 23/Oct/07 2nd
with Matt Tranter
Mark Davies PK 05/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with David Elder
Humpty Dangler 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

120 ft steep single pitch, requiring protection all the way. I ran short after half way and finished using anything I could find as extenders. Very nice route, good quality rock. 11 months later I climbed Papillon 'again', and found that the previous ascent wasn't Papillon at all, as it started from a different tree, lower on the left. It could have been Starfinder or Mustang. Definitely worth a return visit to try to make sense of it.

Chris Sansum 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Adrian Lowe
Circus 10/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead
gareth r 20/May/07 Lead O/S
eagleopus 20/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Martin
Ing 29/Apr/07 2nd
with Hal and James
halhorner 29/Apr/07 2nd
with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
leigh 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Be careful of loose rock at top.

with Ed
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
Jim Slater ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Russ Riseborough
Hidden 18/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/07 2nd
thomasadixon ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Dunks
Hidden 21/Jan/07 Lead O/S
drysori 15/Sep/06 Lead

Prompted by an email about the upcoming guidebook, I thought I'd pay another visit to work my way through the climbs I hadn't led.

with PeteR
simonw1 11/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Andy Graham
brady 07/Jun/06 2nd
with Martin Skinner
Jason Gotel ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Pippa Lansdown
kyt341k 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Freidland
Ybot Htulk ?/Mar/06 Lead
with Pete
timharrison 08/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Abi Marchent
bpmclimb 19/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Clare
Little B 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
richardp2 26/Jan/03 2nd O/S
with Steve Fry
Will Homoky 12/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Og (Andrew Forbes)
Hidden ?/Jan/01 2nd
alan moore ??/2000 -
Paul-Michael 10/Oct/98 Lead O/S
with Emma Day
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead
mikej 26/Jul/90 Lead
with Keith Edwards
Steve Lewis 20/Dec/75 2nd
with Morty, sharpie
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 71
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set