40m. Described in the guide as single pitch, but it's worth considering climbing it in two to lessen rope drag. The first section is amenable, after which the climbing is considered hard for the grade. Start between two trees on the mossy stone. Take the right-hand crack to a small ledge and then keep right until you reach a big ledge and a tree (belay here if splitting the climb). Climb the left-hand of two cracks, keeping left at first, and then trending right; then climb directly up a nice groove to the top. N.B. some trees here are dead: belay from a live one to the left + possible nut backup. Abseil from a big tree well over to the left, or walk off (up to a sketchy path and then keep going right until you hit the steps).

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye, A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe, Wye Valley 10 x 10, But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
badgerjockey 9 Jun 2nd Good route. Tough for the grade but very safe.
with k_k
Good route. Tough for the grade but very safe.
with k_k
Oscar Popels 9 Jun 2nd
with Kuang
with Kuang
Ander 5 Jun 2nd Holding Foz’s ropes. Think he enjoyed this one.
Holding Foz’s ropes. Think he enjoyed this one.
Foz Forster 5 Jun Lead The best trad route I’ve done to date. Such an enjoyable climb and well worth seeking out. Advantageous to be taller on lead. Worth the 2 stars.
with Ander
The best trad route I’ve done to date. Such an enjoyable climb and well worth seeking out. Advantageous to be taller on lead. Worth the 2 stars.
with Ander
DavidPillow 25 May 2nd
with Richard Williams
with Richard Williams
Tatarek 5 May Lead O/S Might have unintentionally ventured onto The Crack midpitch. Still felt hard for an HS.
with Trace
Might have unintentionally ventured onto The Crack midpitch. Still felt hard for an HS.
with Trace
Trosie1 5 May 2nd
Norman_P_W 5 May Lead
with Tessa Rose
with Tessa Rose
David Kay 5 May Lead O/S
with abi.k.l
with abi.k.l
abi.k.l 5 May 2nd dog Not one to try again any time soon...
Not one to try again any time soon...
Trace 5 May 2nd
Hidden 28 Apr Lead O/S
AndySL 15 Apr 2nd O/S Climbed as a three. I thought there was some hard climbing for HS, although it eats hexes and large nuts. Topped out just as it was getting pretty dark. Beautiful view of the bridges lit up. We then walked down the staircase and struggled to find the bottom of the route to retrieve our bags. We ended up by the road and had to scramble back over the old quarry to find the bags. Type 2 fun at its best.
Climbed as a three. I thought there was some hard climbing for HS, although it eats hexes and large nuts. Topped out just as it was getting pretty dark. Beautiful view of the bridges lit up. We then walked down the staircase and struggled to find the bottom of the route to retrieve our bags. We ended up by the road and had to scramble back over the old quarry to find the bags. Type 2 fun at its best.
David Maddison 14 Apr 2nd O/S
myrddinmuse 14 Apr Lead O/S What a shitshow! Freezing cold, windy, people and gear all over the place, parts of the crag raining down from the sky (good work on the crag clearance Barney and Steve). Pretty sure I did this but it was a convoluted line for sure. Exited left due to excess mud.
What a shitshow! Freezing cold, windy, people and gear all over the place, parts of the crag raining down from the sky (good work on the crag clearance Barney and Steve). Pretty sure I did this but it was a convoluted line for sure. Exited left due to excess mud.
Hidden 13 Apr 2nd O/S
George Cox 13 Apr Lead O/S
with iog123
with iog123
daviesp2 6 Apr 2nd
with Dave GMC
with Dave GMC
Hidden 6 Apr 2nd rpt
cwildblood 1 Apr Lead O/S
with rebecca coombe
with rebecca coombe
Hidden 24 Mar Lead O/S
mthr 23 Feb Lead O/S
with jj364
with jj364
yoyo85 23 Feb 2nd
alexalex81 17 Feb Lead O/S
ben_st 12 Jan 2nd
Chris Ebbutt 12 Jan Lead In 2 pitches
with Benn
In 2 pitches
with Benn
joe.mw90 12 Jan Lead O/S Tried to do The Crack but struggled with route finding so belated at the tree and climbed p2 of papillon, which was lots of fun
with Patricia Wong
Tried to do The Crack but struggled with route finding so belated at the tree and climbed p2 of papillon, which was lots of fun
with Patricia Wong
richfitz 6 Jan Lead O/S
with George
with George
gingernick 18 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
with Thomas Matthews
with Thomas Matthews
CharleyAnn 21 Oct, 2018 Lead Did in two pitches, which was a good thing as you need hexes for the bottom and the top of the route. Enjoyable route.
Did in two pitches, which was a good thing as you need hexes for the bottom and the top of the route. Enjoyable route.
robgixer 21 Oct, 2018 2nd
pftom 13 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 2nd
L_Pio 29 Sep, 2018 Lead
Lauren.corbett 30 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S First pitch eats up a full set of hex’s
with Steve Catt
First pitch eats up a full set of hex’s
with Steve Catt
NShuya 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with annakh
with annakh
annakh 27 Aug, 2018 2nd
with NShuya
with NShuya
Etta 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd Take big gear! It was a mistake to leave the ground without big gear.
Take big gear! It was a mistake to leave the ground without big gear.
simoncov 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Really nice, just keeps going. Relatively sustained, steep but plenty of rests. Wanders about a bit, but the line seemed clear to me: straight-up to the tree @10m, up the middle crack for a few (5?) metres then step left into the next crack, trending rightwards a bit from there to the top following the cleanest groove/crack line.
with Etta
Really nice, just keeps going. Relatively sustained, steep but plenty of rests. Wanders about a bit, but the line seemed clear to me: straight-up to the tree @10m, up the middle crack for a few (5?) metres then step left into the next crack, trending rightwards a bit from there to the top following the cleanest groove/crack line.
with Etta
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 -
AngelaC 21 Jul, 2018 Lead Climbed with Angela Dale
Climbed with Angela Dale
AngelaC 28 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
ripper 24 Jun, 2018 2nd Dave's lead - as others have said, felt hard work for HS
Dave's lead - as others have said, felt hard work for HS
CrawfMatt 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
j.anstee 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Montecore 15 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Think this is the route we did but not sure as Patrick got lost! Felt like HS
with Patrick Hutchison
Think this is the route we did but not sure as Patrick got lost! Felt like HS
with Patrick Hutchison
Hidden 13 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hairykitedude 1 Jun, 2018 Lead
Fellmonkey 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Shamina 8 May, 2018 Lead O/S
AlexD 8 May, 2018 2nd
with Shamina
with Shamina
Roget 22 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
Hidden 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Teshil 25 Mar, 2018 Lead
with mihai
with mihai
mihai 25 Mar, 2018 2nd
with Teshil Gangaram
with Teshil Gangaram
lukevf 4 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
harrybeadle 4 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Mini epic. Started in the morning and got down after dark. Lead in 4 pitches due to placeing too much gear (ie shitting bricks). I lead most of the “official” second pitch. Took the wrong line to the belay too... I'm going to claim the onsight here because although I did it in 4 pitches (and therefore rested on the belay stances) I don't think resting at a belay should count as dogging - even if it wasn't a guidebook belay stance.
with Angus G, jessieclimbs97
Mini epic. Started in the morning and got down after dark. Lead in 4 pitches due to placeing too much gear (ie shitting bricks). I lead most of the “official” second pitch. Took the wrong line to the belay too... I'm going to claim the onsight here because although I did it in 4 pitches (and therefore rested on the belay stances) I don't think resting at a belay should count as dogging - even if it wasn't a guidebook belay stance.
with Angus G, jessieclimbs97
James Leetch 4 Feb, 2018 2nd β
with Christabel Goode, Phoebe
with Christabel Goode, Phoebe
The Screaming Finn 4 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with lukevf
with lukevf
jessieclimbs97 4 Feb, 2018 AltLd dog not sure how but turned into 5 pitches
not sure how but turned into 5 pitches
Christabel Goode 4 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
RussLuckhurst 4 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
joelitchy 4 Feb, 2018 2nd
ljkenny 14 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jamie
with Jamie
joe.mtb ??, 2018 Lead
Patrick the Hatrick robinson 3 Dec, 2017 Lead Makes you ponder what an adeqaute amount of gear to be placed is.
Makes you ponder what an adeqaute amount of gear to be placed is.
Hidden 19 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Rob84 24 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
with mel_1
with mel_1
Hidden 24 Sep, 2017 2nd
AndyRogers 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Simon, ianlaw
with Simon, ianlaw
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 2nd
jasonpm 29 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Lynn Robin
with Lynn Robin
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Lynn Robin 29 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Jason Merison
with Jason Merison
jameslomax 19 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Much nicer climb than strike, deserves it's 2 stars even if you have to climb through a tree and out of sight of the belayer. Not sure if this counts as an onsight as I had to hang to free up both hands to thread a prusik through a stuck hex to remove it
Much nicer climb than strike, deserves it's 2 stars even if you have to climb through a tree and out of sight of the belayer. Not sure if this counts as an onsight as I had to hang to free up both hands to thread a prusik through a stuck hex to remove it
Charlie Fraser 19 Jul, 2017 Lead
Stickle Tarn 24 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
wjcdean 21 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Faffed a lot but felt about HS to me. Did as two pitches and led both. Tricky route finding
with BStar
Faffed a lot but felt about HS to me. Did as two pitches and led both. Tricky route finding
with BStar
BStar 20 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt Will took a long time route finding on this... Good steep climbing
with wjcdean
Will took a long time route finding on this... Good steep climbing
with wjcdean
froglette 3 Jun, 2017 2nd dog
littlematt 23 Apr, 2017 2nd
Far Peak Climbing 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Difficult to route find but lovely climbing if not a little polished in places. Be careful of the dead trees at the top on belay.
Difficult to route find but lovely climbing if not a little polished in places. Be careful of the dead trees at the top on belay.
Nathan Chrismas 9 Apr, 2017 2nd
acer2012 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Matt Young
with Matt Young
Hidden 9 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
my 9 Apr, 2017 2nd Just to make sure, did Papillon from the bottom up (confirmed we did Crack first half with Pap 2nd half when thinking we were on the Crack earlier!)
Just to make sure, did Papillon from the bottom up (confirmed we did Crack first half with Pap 2nd half when thinking we were on the Crack earlier!)
dkilner 28 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
with Climbingenthusiast, Kiranv
with Climbingenthusiast, Kiranv
Climbingenthusiast 28 Feb, 2017 Lead rpt
with dkilner
with dkilner
Hidden 4 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
ali.scott 3 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S Surprisingly awkward - I don't think I would argue with soft VS.
Surprisingly awkward - I don't think I would argue with soft VS.
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
Stanners 28 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
with James Rich, Quarryboy, Martin Stanfield
with James Rich, Quarryboy, Martin Stanfield
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
springfall2008 29 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt Nice route, all the moves can be HS but only with some thought...
Nice route, all the moves can be HS but only with some thought...
chris cockbain 15 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
robertmills4 15 Sep, 2016 2nd
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Chris Holmes 31 Aug, 2016 2nd
hairy51 23 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Felt like a good adventure. Did as one pitch, rope drag wasn't too bad. It ate a lot of gear! Felt like HS, but a reasonably scary HS in places.
Felt like a good adventure. Did as one pitch, rope drag wasn't too bad. It ate a lot of gear! Felt like HS, but a reasonably scary HS in places.
lieraza 16 Aug, 2016 Lead Getting in some leading practice, led very short first section to the tree
with Steve
Getting in some leading practice, led very short first section to the tree
with Steve
Ian Stirrups 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Thought this hard, definitely VS for the first section of the crack after the tree. Climb seemed consistently awkward.
with Sue
Thought this hard, definitely VS for the first section of the crack after the tree. Climb seemed consistently awkward.
with Sue
ScottTalbot 28 May, 2016 AltLd dog I did the second pitch. Wasn't sure that I'd taken the correct line, but the description here matches my line. My guidebooks description made it sound like I should have moved further right at some point!?!
with Mick Ward
I did the second pitch. Wasn't sure that I'd taken the correct line, but the description here matches my line. My guidebooks description made it sound like I should have moved further right at some point!?!
with Mick Ward
Hidden 24 May, 2016 2nd
PawelP 14 May, 2016 AltLd we were aiming for The Crack route on the left but accidentally we did at least upper part of pappilon, belaying from horizontal dead tree. Very enjoyable.
with spleen
we were aiming for The Crack route on the left but accidentally we did at least upper part of pappilon, belaying from horizontal dead tree. Very enjoyable.
with spleen
Hidden 5 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Leonhamnett 5 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with James Rucinski
with James Rucinski
Hidden 4 May, 2016 Lead O/S
HannahC 24 Apr, 2016 Lead 1 pitch. No issues route finding.
with Aidan
1 pitch. No issues route finding.
with Aidan
steve-grigg 21 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
matthew.n.u 21 Apr, 2016 Lead Bit off route at the start and finished almost in the dark but still a cool route.
Bit off route at the start and finished almost in the dark but still a cool route.
springfall2008 7 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead the first pitch, and belayed from the ledge with the tree on it. Mark lead the second pitch which I agree was fairly tough for an HS, perhaps easy VS?
Lead the first pitch, and belayed from the ledge with the tree on it. Mark lead the second pitch which I agree was fairly tough for an HS, perhaps easy VS?
Hidden 31 Mar, 2016 Lead
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
DanH9883 25 Mar, 2016 Lead
DanielBryan 23 Mar, 2016 Lead Super climb! Didn't find the route finding too bad.
Super climb! Didn't find the route finding too bad.
JoshChappell 23 Mar, 2016 Lead
Sam Watson 13 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S No idea where I was going, but a fun warm up route. Longer than expected.
No idea where I was going, but a fun warm up route. Longer than expected.
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 5 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 5 Mar, 2016 2nd β
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Cheese Monkey 4 Dec, 2015 Lead rpt
with Claire W
with Claire W
Hidden 17 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Skip 17 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 17 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
with Tom FP
with Tom FP
Stickle Tarn 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Darren Vincent 27 Sep, 2015 Lead
with Lucy
with Lucy
Hidden 24 Sep, 2015 2nd
WillAndrew 24 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
AngelaC 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd
PanzerHanzler 18 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
stevemace85 18 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Lynn Robin 18 Sep, 2015 2nd
with martin hore
with martin hore
Luke90 22 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Avon Man 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Derek
with Derek
Hidden 9 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 Lead
StefanP ?Aug, 2015 Lead
tom0129 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
MikeC59 28 Jul, 2015 Lead Lead second pitch
with David E
Lead second pitch
with David E
BStar 16 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Top end of HS, I would have been happy for this to be VS really. Nice steep climbing, bit of a dirty exit.
with will484
Top end of HS, I would have been happy for this to be VS really. Nice steep climbing, bit of a dirty exit.
with will484
will484 16 Jul, 2015 2nd
with BStar
with BStar
NatCheeseman 25 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S rope got stuck on a tree.....had MAJOR issues pulling it up behind me!!! Made a lovely route BLOODY hard work!!!!
with Malcolm Phelps
rope got stuck on a tree.....had MAJOR issues pulling it up behind me!!! Made a lovely route BLOODY hard work!!!!
with Malcolm Phelps
danieleaston 18 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Stephan
with Stephan
gingerbex 17 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Tried to lead. Did to tree. Couldn't do the crack but ? Wrong one. Jason did rest. Hard for hs
with Jason Bailey
Tried to lead. Did to tree. Couldn't do the crack but ? Wrong one. Jason did rest. Hard for hs
with Jason Bailey
Steve Bartle 3 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kevin V-C
with Kevin V-C
JGriffiths 3 Jun, 2015 2nd
Hidden 27 May, 2015 2nd O/S
the.proud.man 12 May, 2015 2nd O/S An excersize in routefinding. Absailed off the top in the dark.
An excersize in routefinding. Absailed off the top in the dark.
Hidden 25 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
abtibbs 25 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
avonclimber 19 Apr, 2015 Lead
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 Lead
tommy.henriksson78 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tom Barratt
with Tom Barratt
John1458 19 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Alex Wieczorek 19 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
crater 10 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
Steve Woollard 10 Apr, 2015 2nd
with crater
with crater
KarlH 4 Apr, 2015 2nd First climb in 10 months. Felt hard!
with Mr. K
First climb in 10 months. Felt hard!
with Mr. K
Mr. K 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with KarlH
with KarlH
stevethomas 22 Mar, 2015 Lead
with Heather
with Heather
riff156 22 Mar, 2015 Lead G/U
with Jo Smith
with Jo Smith
Fatclimber 21 Feb, 2015 2nd Got very lost, but we think we did this.
with Deako
Got very lost, but we think we did this.
with Deako
Hidden 21 Feb, 2015 Lead
Marti999 31 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
markfromstoke 7 Sep, 2014 Lead
with Adrian
with Adrian
MJAS82 5 Sep, 2014 2nd
clams ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with CatMc
with CatMc
CatMc ?Sep, 2014 2nd
with clams
with clams
ju59 24 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Hugh
with Hugh
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 2nd
caroline256 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
birthers 23 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Echna 17 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with mnyk
with mnyk
AndyMcCoy 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with SiyP
with SiyP
SiyP 9 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
jameshadley 2 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Nice long route. Start is tricky to find and can't see the full route from the ground. Start on the mossy rock between 2 trees and bear left at the top, avoiding looser & dirtier righthand groove
with Elsa
Nice long route. Start is tricky to find and can't see the full route from the ground. Start on the mossy rock between 2 trees and bear left at the top, avoiding looser & dirtier righthand groove
with Elsa
dale.young 20 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Chris sieradzki
with Chris sieradzki
Chris Sieradzki 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Another route on LH crag which is hard for grade. I wanted my friend who is new to trad climbing to lead this. Luckily he refused it otherwise it could be a tough battle for him. Not really 2 *
Another route on LH crag which is hard for grade. I wanted my friend who is new to trad climbing to lead this. Luckily he refused it otherwise it could be a tough battle for him. Not really 2 *
petersheppard 20 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
joe gallacher 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Nice route , think i took the rh crack in error ,,,bloody hard error...no harm done , good value for its grade.
with Peter Sheppard, Allan Green
Nice route , think i took the rh crack in error ,,,bloody hard error...no harm done , good value for its grade.
with Peter Sheppard, Allan Green
danbirkby 18 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Gordon
with Gordon
Pike 12 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Garbage. Torturous route finding, grease, dirt and half of the Wye valley vegetation growing out of it. A pair of garden shears would have of more use than a gear rack. Two stars??? Two piles of steamy poo.
with Mark Condon
Garbage. Torturous route finding, grease, dirt and half of the Wye valley vegetation growing out of it. A pair of garden shears would have of more use than a gear rack. Two stars??? Two piles of steamy poo.
with Mark Condon
scott titt 29 Jun, 2014 -
brian watson 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hmgslade 22 Jun, 2014 2nd
with JWT
with JWT
Rob84 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt
with Lou Ramsden, TimAshlin
with Lou Ramsden, TimAshlin
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
cjohn62 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd p1
with gareth
p1
with gareth
JClimb 31 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Stuart MacLachlin
with Stuart MacLachlin
wave1art 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S Last climb. Horribly wet and slippery to start with. Bitty and not a great route.
with Mark Wren
Last climb. Horribly wet and slippery to start with. Bitty and not a great route.
with Mark Wren
stujamac 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with JClimb
with JClimb
squicky 17 May, 2014 Lead Didn't have a guidebook but it looks like this is what I climbed, which is good because it was what I was aiming for. The route finding was tortuous but following the line of least resistance got me there in the end. Quite sustained but plenty of rest and plenty of gear so I think fair enough for HS, especially given the grading on right crag.
Didn't have a guidebook but it looks like this is what I climbed, which is good because it was what I was aiming for. The route finding was tortuous but following the line of least resistance got me there in the end. Quite sustained but plenty of rest and plenty of gear so I think fair enough for HS, especially given the grading on right crag.
SteveJB 24 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Nice evening climbing with Alec Roberts
Nice evening climbing with Alec Roberts
JonnyFawell 12 Apr, 2014 2nd dog
annak 29 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Big Lee 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Good route with plenty of descent climbing. Hard for the grade.
with annak
Good route with plenty of descent climbing. Hard for the grade.
with annak
Hidden 16 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 16 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy Armstrong
with Andy Armstrong
FelixPeterken 10 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Quite hard, but liked it. Can be a bit tricky navigating.
with AndrewP
Quite hard, but liked it. Can be a bit tricky navigating.
with AndrewP
AndrewP 10 Mar, 2014 2nd A great lead from Felix.
A great lead from Felix.
Nick Russell 9 Mar, 2014 2nd rpt Pretty sure we went a different way to my first time on this. Good climb on a sunny day.
Pretty sure we went a different way to my first time on this. Good climb on a sunny day.
alastairbegley 9 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
67hours 8 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Another good route, although Owen struggled somewhat on the moves in the middle and shouted a lot.
Another good route, although Owen struggled somewhat on the moves in the middle and shouted a lot.
sheelba 1 Mar, 2014 2nd
Pintsize 11 Jan, 2014 2nd O/S
with Angus McBride, will_benfold
with Angus McBride, will_benfold
will_benfold 11 Jan, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus McBride, Pintsize
with Angus McBride, Pintsize
Hidden ??, 2014 -
rich H0001 ??, 2014 Lead
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 2nd
Ian JL 14 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
islandlynx ?Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with AmyAmy
with AmyAmy
MD 31 Aug, 2013 2nd
Happy Wanderer 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Lost the will to climb at the top section and the strength to haul the ropes up any further. The most bewildering route finding exercise yet.
with MD
Lost the will to climb at the top section and the strength to haul the ropes up any further. The most bewildering route finding exercise yet.
with MD
fishinwater 7 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Chris W
with Chris W
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 Lead
Monk 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S A satisfying line, but the climbing doesn't flow particularly nicely.
with Andy A, Kylie, Luke
A satisfying line, but the climbing doesn't flow particularly nicely.
with Andy A, Kylie, Luke
mullermn 1 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with Monk
with Monk
pheotleyr 15 May, 2013 Lead O/S 2 sets of hexes useful.
2 sets of hexes useful.
Cheese Monkey 15 May, 2013 2nd O/S
HassenBali 12 May, 2013 Lead O/S Exposed in parts, satisfying to finish.
Exposed in parts, satisfying to finish.
Eoinparker 12 May, 2013 2nd O/S Not as nice as billed
Not as nice as billed
p3tersen 12 May, 2013 2nd
ElBarto 27 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
madguernseyboy 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Wildstyle 27 Apr, 2013 2nd dnf
Gavdee1 19 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Excellent. Split in to two pitches as some of it was a bit damp and I didn't fancy the stretch in nearly 40m of rope if I came off near the top. 4a and 4b moves all the way.
Excellent. Split in to two pitches as some of it was a bit damp and I didn't fancy the stretch in nearly 40m of rope if I came off near the top. 4a and 4b moves all the way.
bonelessivar 15 Feb, 2013 2nd
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
haz rudry ??, 2013 2nd
Kyuzo 1 Dec, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
saraguti 21 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S hard for the grade but beautiful
with chris
hard for the grade but beautiful
with chris
Deary65 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Pero 14 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Amber Chaloner 2 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Screamed all the way 40m. On the wrong route. Should have been on the severe!
Screamed all the way 40m. On the wrong route. Should have been on the severe!
Gareth T 2 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
simonf 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Dark. Led to get Mike's gear back, then got rope stuck after abseil.
Dark. Led to get Mike's gear back, then got rope stuck after abseil.
localboy 28 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf Got up first crack and halfway up the second before my arms gave out. It's all there but has some exposed moves.
with raingod
Got up first crack and halfway up the second before my arms gave out. It's all there but has some exposed moves.
with raingod
Jonners 19 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Two pitches, long absail.
Two pitches, long absail.
timreynolds 19 Aug, 2012 Lead
Country_Boy 10 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Great cimbing, quite exposed.
with Anton
Great cimbing, quite exposed.
with Anton
colinthomson5 24 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Maybe started on the Crack and finished on Papillon, great climb any how!!
with John Hillman
Maybe started on the Crack and finished on Papillon, great climb any how!!
with John Hillman
Bryan M 14 Jul, 2012 Lead
TR909 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
klo1981 27 May, 2012 2nd dog
climbingchippie 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with klo1981
with klo1981
PaulWatson 22 May, 2012 2nd rpt well, crackillon more like. Good route still though
with Tony, RosyR
well, crackillon more like. Good route still though
with Tony, RosyR
jdgaventa 5 May, 2012 Lead
with katy
with katy
steveprice.exmouth 23 Apr, 2012 Lead Better split into 2 pitches, or take a ton of gear
with Ellie Woods
Better split into 2 pitches, or take a ton of gear
with Ellie Woods
EllieWoods 21 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Sarah Welsh 21 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Emgrant
with Emgrant
Hidden 21 Apr, 2012 2nd
Ybot Htulk 15 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Sonya
with Sonya
Phil Layton 25 Mar, 2012 AltLd dnf Just too knackered after 'Cadillac'
with Justin B
Just too knackered after 'Cadillac'
with Justin B
mrfeebus ??, 2012 -
pad-rat ??, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Mistee 26 Nov, 2011 2nd β
Nick Russell 8 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Split into 2 pitches. As the consensus suggests, hard in the grade
Split into 2 pitches. As the consensus suggests, hard in the grade
ajtay 3 Oct, 2011 2nd
with Dom W
with Dom W
crossdressingrodney 7 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Stays dry in rain with strong enough westerlies!
with Andy B
Stays dry in rain with strong enough westerlies!
with Andy B
Emily Cropton 3 Sep, 2011 Lead
jon_ridley 3 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S unusual, fun.
unusual, fun.
andy dunn 27 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Bloater, J
with Bloater, J
ElBarto 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Good climb that's worth doing. Some rocks are a little bit lose though. Maybe slightly harder than most HS but not by to much.
Good climb that's worth doing. Some rocks are a little bit lose though. Maybe slightly harder than most HS but not by to much.
martin one 21 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Neil Nand
with Neil Nand
Different Steve 15 Aug, 2011 2nd rpt
with Emma Hawkins
with Emma Hawkins
petecallaghan 16 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Not sure I found the correct start of this. What I climbed was dirty and vegetated at the start, clearly not worth any stars
with Simon Berring, Emma Grant
Not sure I found the correct start of this. What I climbed was dirty and vegetated at the start, clearly not worth any stars
with Simon Berring, Emma Grant
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Blue68 25 Jun, 2011 -
grumpyoldjanner 16 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Found it hard for the grade although there is plenty of gear if you can be bothered to drag enough up with you.
with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins
Found it hard for the grade although there is plenty of gear if you can be bothered to drag enough up with you.
with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins
Deano100 25 May, 2011 2nd Great climb, last 20m is really good. Done in 2 pitches on first of AMC regular Wednesday evening climbs.
Great climb, last 20m is really good. Done in 2 pitches on first of AMC regular Wednesday evening climbs.
Goose4 1 May, 2011 2nd
Goose4 1 May, 2011 2nd
JamieTown 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Goose4
with Goose4
Stewart Armstrong 24 Apr, 2011 -
with Ivan Bicknell
with Ivan Bicknell
The Ivanator 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Long pitch, high in the grade with several 4b sections, but good rests and gear so HS seems the right grade. Take hexes and plenty of draws (I used 13 runners and could easily have put more in).
Long pitch, high in the grade with several 4b sections, but good rests and gear so HS seems the right grade. Take hexes and plenty of draws (I used 13 runners and could easily have put more in).
Gregthebadger 7 Apr, 2011 2nd
Ushuaia 19 Mar, 2011 Lead more like a VS, exit groove is sustained...
more like a VS, exit groove is sustained...
mrfeebus ??, 2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Garron 28 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
JenDurden 13 Nov, 2010 2nd O/S
James Moyle 21 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S HS 4b? I suppose possibly, but I've definitely climbed a number of VS climbs that are a similar standard
with piers cunliffe
HS 4b? I suppose possibly, but I've definitely climbed a number of VS climbs that are a similar standard
with piers cunliffe
d_meacher 3 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Lucy Rouse, Jess patel
with Lucy Rouse, Jess patel
Becky C 30 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Duncan
with Duncan
Andrew Sloan 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Hard for the grade.Led as 2 pitches.
with Tim
Hard for the grade.Led as 2 pitches.
with Tim
hotfeet 24 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Keith
with Keith
gilbert 22 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S felt hard for the grade.. maybe because I haven't climbed outside for a wee while. Lovely day!
with Jonathan Percival
felt hard for the grade.. maybe because I haven't climbed outside for a wee while. Lovely day!
with Jonathan Percival
gripped01 ?Aug, 2010 2nd
with Gilbert
with Gilbert
muttley_109 17 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
with Gary Lewis
with Gary Lewis
martinp 11 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Adam
with Adam
AdamP 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Martin
with Martin
Rob Exile Ward 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Started up what might have been the Crack, but was loose and dirty, so finished up this. Pretty good climb I thought, but tough for HS.
with Sam Ward
Started up what might have been the Crack, but was loose and dirty, so finished up this. Pretty good climb I thought, but tough for HS.
with Sam Ward
martinp 3 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with IanH
with IanH
Hidden 2 Jun, 2010 Lead
Hidden 25 May, 2010 2nd
wilchivs 25 May, 2010 Lead O/S
RagingPuffin 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
lizzie789 22 May, 2010 2nd O/S
PaulWatson 13 May, 2010 Lead O/S Stunning climb, best lead to date and harder than any VS I have led. Very steep for an HS, long, varied, sustained and really makes you think. Good rock and well protected provided you take loads of big gear and long runners.
with Dave P
Stunning climb, best lead to date and harder than any VS I have led. Very steep for an HS, long, varied, sustained and really makes you think. Good rock and well protected provided you take loads of big gear and long runners.
with Dave P
David Qualtrough ?May, 2010 -
Tim Ducker 20 Apr, 2010 2nd
stuart34 20 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
martinp 16 Apr, 2010 2nd
with Alan C
with Alan C
DaNo123 7 Apr, 2010 Lead
with martin, PanzerHanzler
with martin, PanzerHanzler
PanzerHanzler 7 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
with DaNo123, Martin Hore
with DaNo123, Martin Hore
petedunford183 4 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
btc 13 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with snooze
with snooze
snooze 13 Mar, 2010 2nd
with btc
with btc
James_86 14 Feb, 2010 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet 6 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S Looser than the guidebook said I think - fresh rock scars right at the start, near the loose block someone else mentioned and also on the finish. Hence fair at VS I think. Edit: on later inspection of fallen rock on the ground, it appears a large flake has come away from the first section.
with ah
Looser than the guidebook said I think - fresh rock scars right at the start, near the loose block someone else mentioned and also on the finish. Hence fair at VS I think. Edit: on later inspection of fallen rock on the ground, it appears a large flake has come away from the first section.
with ah
Jacob k-d ?Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 17 Sep, 2009 2nd rpt
Huntlyfiddler 17 Sep, 2009 Lead
RossT 16 Aug, 2009 Lead
aged_ape ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
stevethomas 31 Jul, 2009 Lead Good route. Split into 2 pitches with a belay on the big ledge behind the tree. This meant there was no rope drag at the top. Not the best of belay positions at the top, nor the most inspiring tree to tie onto!
with Heather
Good route. Split into 2 pitches with a belay on the big ledge behind the tree. This meant there was no rope drag at the top. Not the best of belay positions at the top, nor the most inspiring tree to tie onto!
with Heather
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 2nd β
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 2nd
Sam W 4 Jul, 2009 Lead
with ebdon
with ebdon
AlexDexter ?Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with anthony nichols
with anthony nichols
MikeC59 28 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
TimPerkin 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
with Dave Gale
tobydunford 26 May, 2009 Lead O/S
jamie ward 26 May, 2009 2nd
with Toby Dunford
with Toby Dunford
chrisallan 25 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Flashy 6 May, 2009 Lead O/S
five 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with TW
with TW
Mark Batey 19 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Hash Popat
with Hash Popat
chrisjones199 19 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with hash
with hash
hash 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Janette
with Janette
brady 21 Mar, 2009 2nd rpt
with Micky
with Micky
mickyconnor 21 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Nice line. Watch out for the huge wobbly block at the begining of the finishing groove.
with brady
Nice line. Watch out for the huge wobbly block at the begining of the finishing groove.
with brady
FayeG 15 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Great climb, rubbish anchor at the top unless you go all the way back. Worst bit is the descent - we missed the path back to the crag and were fumbling through the woods for an hour or so!
with Netty
Great climb, rubbish anchor at the top unless you go all the way back. Worst bit is the descent - we missed the path back to the crag and were fumbling through the woods for an hour or so!
with Netty
BenTiffin 20 Feb, 2009 Lead
with Ellen Wolfenden
with Ellen Wolfenden
Rob84 24 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jonboy
with Jonboy
martinazando 12 Oct, 2008 2nd O/S
with al99
with al99
al99 11 Oct, 2008 2nd O/S
martinazando 11 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with al99
with al99
lukehodson 3 Oct, 2008 2nd O/S
with Sam Smith, Greg Pittam
with Sam Smith, Greg Pittam
Hidden 16 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Humpty Dangler 10 Aug, 2008 2nd An entertaining and sustained outing that definitely felt harder than HS. Plenty of moves and variety make this route deserve its stars.
An entertaining and sustained outing that definitely felt harder than HS. Plenty of moves and variety make this route deserve its stars.
The Reaper 24 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
TrevorCruse 25 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Adam, Malcolm
with Adam, Malcolm
Hidden 16 Jun, 2008 2nd
PhillipG ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Roger
with Roger
JimBee ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ian Whitehead
with Ian Whitehead
freemanTom ?Jun, 2008 Lead
with Jenny Watson
with Jenny Watson
Piers 20 May, 2008 Lead β
with Charlie Goldblatt
with Charlie Goldblatt
DannyK 16 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
My Gravity 5 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben P
with Ben P
haydng 30 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
with RMG
with RMG
deklan ?Feb, 2008 Lead
Matt Tranter 23 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S Split the climb into 2 at the big tree. Less rope drag and more gear for the top pitch. (It eats gear.) Very loose block on the top. Good route.
with Jen Edwards
Split the climb into 2 at the big tree. Less rope drag and more gear for the top pitch. (It eats gear.) Very loose block on the top. Good route.
with Jen Edwards
Jen79 23 Oct, 2007 2nd
with Matt Tranter
with Matt Tranter
Mark Davies PK 5 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
with David Elder
with David Elder
Humpty Dangler 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S 120 ft steep single pitch, requiring protection all the way. I ran short after half way and finished using anything I could find as extenders. Very nice route, good quality rock. 11 months later I climbed Papillon 'again', and found that the previous ascent wasn't Papillon at all, as it started from a different tree, lower on the left. It could have been Starfinder or Mustang. Definitely worth a return visit to try to make sense of it.
120 ft steep single pitch, requiring protection all the way. I ran short after half way and finished using anything I could find as extenders. Very nice route, good quality rock. 11 months later I climbed Papillon 'again', and found that the previous ascent wasn't Papillon at all, as it started from a different tree, lower on the left. It could have been Starfinder or Mustang. Definitely worth a return visit to try to make sense of it.
Chris Sansum 27 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Adrian Lowe
with Adrian Lowe
Circus 10 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Lou
with Lou
Hidden 5 Aug, 2007 Lead
gareth r 20 May, 2007 Lead O/S
eagleopus 20 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Martin
with Martin
Ing 29 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Hal and James
with Hal and James
halhorner 29 Apr, 2007 2nd
with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
leigh 14 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S Be careful of loose rock at top.
with Ed
Be careful of loose rock at top.
with Ed
Jim Slater ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Russ Riseborough
with Russ Riseborough
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 2nd
Hidden 18 Mar, 2007 2nd
Hidden 18 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
thomasadixon ?Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dunks
with Dunks
Hidden 21 Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 15 Sep, 2006 Lead Prompted by an email about the upcoming guidebook, I thought I'd pay another visit to work my way through the climbs I hadn't led.
with PeteR
Prompted by an email about the upcoming guidebook, I thought I'd pay another visit to work my way through the climbs I hadn't led.
with PeteR
simonw1 11 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
with Andy Graham
with Andy Graham
brady 7 Jun, 2006 2nd
with Martin Skinner
with Martin Skinner
Jason Gotel ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
with Pippa Lansdown
with Pippa Lansdown
kyt341k 8 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with Ben Freidland
with Ben Freidland
Ybot Htulk ?Mar, 2006 Lead
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 8 Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19 Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 19 Oct, 2003 2nd
Little B 12 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
richardp2 26 Jan, 2003 2nd O/S
with Steve Fry
with Steve Fry
Will Homoky 12 Sep, 2001 Lead O/S
with Og (Andrew Forbes)
with Og (Andrew Forbes)
Hidden ?Jan, 2001 2nd
alan moore ??, 2000 -
Paul-Michael 10 Oct, 1998 Lead O/S
with Emma Day
with Emma Day
Hidden 3 May, 1997 Lead
mikej 26 Jul, 1990 Lead
with Keith Edwards
with Keith Edwards
Steve Lewis 20 Dec, 1975 2nd
with Morty, sharpie
with Morty, sharpie
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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 78
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set