UKC Logbook - 'Papillon'

40m.

Rockfax Description
An adventurous and reasonably well-travelled line. Start at a boulder, right of the large tree growing up against the face. Climb to and up a groove to a tree at 9m. Climb the crack with two small overhangs above. The crack ends at a ledge (junction with The Crack). Move right and finish up the pleasant corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe , Wye Valley 10 x 10 , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wye Valley Lepidoptera , Wye Valley Trad

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
cmcgl	26 May	Show βeta βeta: Edit: I believe this has now fallen off. "There is a very large loose flake at around 15m. After the 'two small overhangs' the large flake to the right of the crack is loose. It has tempting gear placements and is hard to avoid using as holds when sticking on route. I tested a cam behind it and could move it when pulling on the cam. If your belayer was on the ledge by the tree and it went it would be a very serious situation. Would recommend stepping into The Cracks to the left to avoid it before rejoining."	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Edit: I believe this has now fallen off. "There is a very large loose flake at around 15m. After the 'two small overhangs' the large flake to the right of the crack is loose. It has tempting gear placements and is hard to avoid using as holds when sticking on route. I tested a cam behind it and could move it when pulling on the cam. If your belayer was on the ledge by the tree and it went it would be a very serious situation. Would recommend stepping into The Cracks to the left to avoid it before rejoining."
Rick Sewards	22 Nov, 2023	Show βeta βeta: I actually think this one is best done in 2 pitches (belaying on the ledge behind the big tree 10 metres up), to reduce rope drag and because the belay trees are a bit of a way back. Above this ledge there a 3 short cracks (though LWV only mentions 2!) - start in the middle one and switch to the left-hand one after a couple of metres.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I actually think this one is best done in 2 pitches (belaying on the ledge behind the big tree 10 metres up), to reduce rope drag and because the belay trees are a bit of a way back. Above this ledge there a 3 short cracks (though LWV only mentions 2!) - start in the middle one and switch to the left-hand one after a couple of metres.
GrumpyGoat	27 May, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Loose rock. My second accidentally pulled a large hold off just beneath the tree ledge.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Loose rock. My second accidentally pulled a large hold off just beneath the tree ledge.
WeirdWyrd	3 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Alot of loose rock	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Alot of loose rock
lakeyross	3 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Ace root. Bold lead in places for a HS (assuming we went on the correct line!)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ace root. Bold lead in places for a HS (assuming we went on the correct line!)
Gingerlings	14 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: I accidentally took the middle crack, I stead of the far left one, which felt a bit harder than 4b. There was lots of polish the way I went up so I\'m definitely not the only person to have done it this way. Really fun, well protected.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I accidentally took the middle crack, I stead of the far left one, which felt a bit harder than 4b. There was lots of polish the way I went up so I'm definitely not the only person to have done it this way. Really fun, well protected.
FerClimbs	16 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Abseil tree is well alive. It has several loops of tat around it and a mallion to abseil from. I am not sure which tree the other feedback is talking about.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Abseil tree is well alive. It has several loops of tat around it and a mallion to abseil from. I am not sure which tree the other feedback is talking about.
PaulJepson	1 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Ab tree is solid and well-rooted but very much dead.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ab tree is solid and well-rooted but very much dead.