35m. A direct line up the yellow wall just right of second black streak from the left. Start as for Instant Lemon Direct to the point where it moves out right. Continue straight up on good holds (good nut runner in small slot up on right) to good long incut ledge. Continue up crack in black rock with plentiful protection to its top, then use twin side pulls to pull up left onto large hold at base of easier slab. Up slab to gain large fault midway between two small aspens. Move up to bulge, then out right to belay on small birch. Sling and maillon in situ.

Note: whilst cleaning, trundled large flake/block at point just up & right of where Instant Lemon Direct & Instant Lemon join; also the rectangular plaque where peg used to be on Instant Lemon Direct (was trying to replace the peg behind this). The start of Instant Lemon Direct is very serious; apart from reasonable nut very low down in crack on left (placed by reaching in from base on left), only protection on first 10m are 3 skyhooks. Suggest getting on for E6 6a for this section (common to Migrants), certainly very nasty at E5.

Gary Latter 27/Sep/2015


Highland Outcrops South ***


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