Climbs 213
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 360m a.s.l
Faces S

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Maybes Aye, maybes no © mshorter

Crag features

One of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crags. South facing and quick drying, although weeping in places. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.

The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced. This makes it not a prime choice for beginners Severe and the low Es can be run-out.

Approach notes

Park at the layby opposite the westmost of two small oxbow lochans (57.033523, -4.187478).


No Access Issues

The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.

I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking!
Fiend - 07/Oct/13
I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in...
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07
A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area. Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run will have a field day! The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep. And to add to the must do list: Jump so high combination E1 5b The Hill E2 5b Over the Hill E3 5c The Furher E4 5c Bratach Uaine E4 6a Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary) The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary) Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet looks excellent though. Hope this is of some use. Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

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