Climbs 213
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 360m a.s.l
Faces S
So close yet so far © andymoin
Crag features
Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.
The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.
The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.
Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.
The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.
Approach notes
Park at the layby opposite the westmost of two small oxbow lochans.
| Went to visit this crag as we were in the area - wow! this is a seriously impressive place. I had no idea it was there, but the closer you walk up the steep but short approach through the talus slope the more impressive it gets. It's all very vertical and smooth and on first impressions looks super hard! If you have the chops I'm sure it would be an excellent challenge. drconline - 01/Oct/20 |
|
| I doubt I will ever stop being amused by the SMC refusing to publish a guide to this back in the 70s. Such a major and high quality cliff, what were they thinking! Fiend - 07/Oct/13 |
|
| I've never seen so many ticks at a crag before, there were loads of the blighters crawling over our trousers! Only 3 (so far) seem to have found a way in... Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/07 |
|
| A large rockfall at the left end of the great wall last year, has left the area around Run Free a bit loose and dodgy....i'm not sure of exact details but i think Run free is no longer possible.King Bee is still fine but care must be taken when abseiling from the top of the second pitch as you pass over the rock fall scar and there's a chance of further loose rock in the area.
Overall an excellent crag,if your feeling fairly fit and you you like steep climbing on positive holds and don't mind the occasional run out...you will have a field day!
The crag is south facing and in hot weather no amount of chalk will stop the holds feeling smooth and sweaty....best to head elsewhere in those conditions.The plus side of that is it dry's fairly quickly except the occasional seep.
And to add to the must do list:
Jump so high combination E1 5b
The Hill E2 5b
Over the Hill E3 5c
The Furher E4 5c
Bratach Uaine E4 6a
Colder than a hookers Heart E5 5c (very scary)
The Final solution E5 6a (also fairly scary)
Not done anything on Bedtime buttress yet
looks excellent though.
Hope this is of some use.
Russ.
Russell Birkett - 03/Feb/04 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Liam Ingram and andymoin