1220m. The classic of the classics. 1200m of climbing, very little of which can be rappeled on the way down. (Allow just as much time for the descent as the ascent!)

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Tom Livingstone 15 May Solo O/S Very enjoyable. Quite wintry conditions and a cold wind. Had the place to myself
Very enjoyable. Quite wintry conditions and a cold wind. Had the place to myself
jimbonfire 17 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing experience, such an iconic route & rare chance to have to mountain to ourselves..
Amazing experience, such an iconic route & rare chance to have to mountain to ourselves..
jamieevans 17 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S We were the only people on it. Summited in my baselayer. Schmidt is NOT in. Did i mention we were the only people on it!
We were the only people on it. Summited in my baselayer. Schmidt is NOT in. Did i mention we were the only people on it!
mikescriv 19 Sep, 2018 2nd With a guide, breakneck 4hour ascent,4 hour descent. If solo or without guide allow an extra 2 hours for false trails or just follow the pack. Best time is end of Sept when the crowds have gone. Not to be underestimated. Good pins/posts all the way for belay/rappel etc.
With a guide, breakneck 4hour ascent,4 hour descent. If solo or without guide allow an extra 2 hours for false trails or just follow the pack. Best time is end of Sept when the crowds have gone. Not to be underestimated. Good pins/posts all the way for belay/rappel etc.
mr mills 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Went to Zermatt with Hilary and Chris then decided to hire some kit as the weather was so good to climb the Matterhorn ! Started from the hut at 5.45 back in the hut at around 7ish. Going up was fine but harder coming down, walked back to Zermatt.
Went to Zermatt with Hilary and Chris then decided to hire some kit as the weather was so good to climb the Matterhorn ! Started from the hut at 5.45 back in the hut at around 7ish. Going up was fine but harder coming down, walked back to Zermatt.
Pero 10 Sep, 2018 - In descent after Italian ridge.
In descent after Italian ridge.
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
RuthW 20 Aug, 2018 - From Schwarzsee hotel to summit (1hr 50m to hut, 4h 30m to summit) and back to hut
From Schwarzsee hotel to summit (1hr 50m to hut, 4h 30m to summit) and back to hut
Iggy_B 12 Aug, 2018 -
Richard Ellis 9 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
with Dave Kenyon
JPSmith 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Neil Palfrey
with Neil Palfrey
AdamDavies97 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Kenneth Davies
with Kenneth Davies
Marc-A Di Guisto 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd
BenCollis 13 Jul, 2018 2nd With guide, my mum insisted. 3:30hrs up, 3:30hrs down. 4am to 11am. What a day.
With guide, my mum insisted. 3:30hrs up, 3:30hrs down. 4am to 11am. What a day.
JackMcCartney 12 Jul, 2018 -
Gawyllie 9 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S grahamwyllie.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-matterhorn.html?m=1
grahamwyllie.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-matterhorn.html?m=1
James Tamlyn ??, 2018 2nd
with A.R.N Chatto
with A.R.N Chatto
mike_L86 ?Sep, 2017 Lead
with Shane Nowakowski
with Shane Nowakowski
Hidden 25 Aug, 2017 -
Hidden 22 Aug, 2017 -
nbryant 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Valley to valley in one long 17 hours. Never too difficult but just keeps going! Mega busy and the route finding can at times be challenging. But what a day! Amazing mountain and would love to try the Lions ridge now.
Valley to valley in one long 17 hours. Never too difficult but just keeps going! Mega busy and the route finding can at times be challenging. But what a day! Amazing mountain and would love to try the Lions ridge now.
wchan 7 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
George.D 7 Aug, 2017 2nd Perfect conditions - very clear and still. 3.5 hrs from the Hornli hut to the summit and the same to descend. Crampons from just below the final fixed ropes, but virtually no snow or ice so could have got away without (and some parties did). Lucky with the timing as 60cm of fresh snow forecast for the next day. Epic.
Perfect conditions - very clear and still. 3.5 hrs from the Hornli hut to the summit and the same to descend. Crampons from just below the final fixed ropes, but virtually no snow or ice so could have got away without (and some parties did). Lucky with the timing as 60cm of fresh snow forecast for the next day. Epic.
Will Jerram 19 Jul, 2017 2nd
with John McCune
with John McCune
CarlosTT 13 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Used to descend after climb the lion ridge
with Roger
Used to descend after climb the lion ridge
with Roger
Hidden 7 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Bl1374 7 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
bruce ??, 2017 -
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Jamie Johnston 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with snowplc
with snowplc
Rowern 10 Sep, 2016 2nd β
MJTheobald97 9 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
ollyroberts 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd
adz_c 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd dnf Probably the best mountaineering experience of my life due to views, sustained enjoyment of scrambling and iconic mountain. Made good time to Solvay hut, 2.5 hours. However, we got to the summit snowfield late due to waiting at fixed rope sections. With one party member shivering and getting angry due to previous rock dislodge we descended rather than summit. Got a rope jam at base of lower mosely slab and lost more time so into darkness. Route finding tricky and we ended up benighted on a ledge near the chimneys around 3600m. Watched the next day parties make their way up past us then we were back at Hornli hut for 0800 breakfast.
Probably the best mountaineering experience of my life due to views, sustained enjoyment of scrambling and iconic mountain. Made good time to Solvay hut, 2.5 hours. However, we got to the summit snowfield late due to waiting at fixed rope sections. With one party member shivering and getting angry due to previous rock dislodge we descended rather than summit. Got a rope jam at base of lower mosely slab and lost more time so into darkness. Route finding tricky and we ended up benighted on a ledge near the chimneys around 3600m. Watched the next day parties make their way up past us then we were back at Hornli hut for 0800 breakfast.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2016 Solo
Hidden 18 Aug, 2016 2nd
Ollieaxon 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S 10 hour day in intermittent cloud, very icy at the top but great/hard day out.
10 hour day in intermittent cloud, very icy at the top but great/hard day out.
jules1990 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together, swapped leads with Ollie at the Solvay. 10 hours there and back.
with David Whiteley, Ollie Axon
Moved together, swapped leads with Ollie at the Solvay. 10 hours there and back.
with David Whiteley, Ollie Axon
Wojttek 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Danii
with Danii
Ellis Bird ?Aug, 2016 - Descent route
Descent route
Billygoat ?Aug, 2016 2nd Reached 4000m before having to turn back due to bad weather approaching
Reached 4000m before having to turn back due to bad weather approaching
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 AltLd
Bcrich01 11 Sep, 2015 AltLd
richard s 10 Sep, 2015 2nd Turned back at 4100m
with Andy Owen
Turned back at 4100m
with Andy Owen
Kayan 9 Sep, 2015 -
with Joe fraser
with Joe fraser
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd dnf
Jamie Johnston 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd dnf Turned back at Solvay Hut
with snowplc, Craig Cameron
Turned back at Solvay Hut
with snowplc, Craig Cameron
Pero 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd
davidmckeown ?Sep, 2015 -
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Megamomaniac 12 Aug, 2015 - descent twice the ascent time including missing person´s report
with MäkiderStarke
descent twice the ascent time including missing person´s report
with MäkiderStarke
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 Solo
Tinley 6 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hannah V 6 Aug, 2015 2nd Excellent conditions and weather. A lot of parties to share the route with!
with Rocio Siemens
Excellent conditions and weather. A lot of parties to share the route with!
with Rocio Siemens
BlackheathDiggs 31 Jul, 2015 2nd Climbed with French guide. Perfect conditions (little snow and ice, apart from on the top), no need for ice axe. Lost 15 mins queuing at lower mosely slabs, but got to Solvay Hut after 2hrs 15mins. Total ascent time 5 hours, total descent 5 hours! Then a jog back down from the hut to make the cable car...
Climbed with French guide. Perfect conditions (little snow and ice, apart from on the top), no need for ice axe. Lost 15 mins queuing at lower mosely slabs, but got to Solvay Hut after 2hrs 15mins. Total ascent time 5 hours, total descent 5 hours! Then a jog back down from the hut to make the cable car...
fifthsunset 30 Jul, 2015 -
Hardonicus 30 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf Got to just below the shoulder in 6 hours. Felt we were a little slow and turned back as visibility was dropping a bit. Should have pressed on and had a night in the Solvay, conditions improved on the way back down. Long walk down to Zermatt afterwards.
with Tom Woods
Got to just below the shoulder in 6 hours. Felt we were a little slow and turned back as visibility was dropping a bit. Should have pressed on and had a night in the Solvay, conditions improved on the way back down. Long walk down to Zermatt afterwards.
with Tom Woods
Simon Allcock 7 Jul, 2015 - with Zermatt Guide. hot and quiet day
with Zermatt Guide. hot and quiet day
ian.ross.bnc ?Jul, 2015 - with Adrian Nelhams (ISM), 4.5hrs up, 5hrs down
with Adrian Nelhams (ISM), 4.5hrs up, 5hrs down
Everetta ??, 2015 2nd O/S
Helge Øystein Maakestad ??, 2015 Solo dnf I started form the Hoernli Hut at 0230 at night. Due do problems with routefinding I spent too much time. I climbed to the bivouac at 4000 meters and decided to abort the attempt. It took me 8 hours to climb from the Hoernli Hut to the bivouac and down again. No problems with lack of "acclimatisation". Usually there are fixed ropes put up on the "difficult" sections of the route. This year was the 150'th anniversary for the first ascent of the mountain and all the ropes were taken down. You had to climb all the way.
I started form the Hoernli Hut at 0230 at night. Due do problems with routefinding I spent too much time. I climbed to the bivouac at 4000 meters and decided to abort the attempt. It took me 8 hours to climb from the Hoernli Hut to the bivouac and down again. No problems with lack of "acclimatisation". Usually there are fixed ropes put up on the "difficult" sections of the route. This year was the 150'th anniversary for the first ascent of the mountain and all the ropes were taken down. You had to climb all the way.
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 -
Hidden ?Nov, 2014 AltLd
sgl 19 Oct, 2014 - In descent after N.face
with viv
In descent after N.face
with viv
crag_monster ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Lucy
with Lucy
butteredfrog ?Sep, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
picasso 4 Sep, 2013 -
Dreamchaser 21 Aug, 2013 AltLd β Jerry Gore and myself climbed the Matterhorn in the swiss alps to raise money for Jerry's Ecuador appeal to keep insulin dependant kids in Ecuador alive. www.justgiving.com/royarscott
Jerry Gore and myself climbed the Matterhorn in the swiss alps to raise money for Jerry's Ecuador appeal to keep insulin dependant kids in Ecuador alive. www.justgiving.com/royarscott
Hidden 16 Aug, 2013 Solo
Hidden 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2013 Solo dnf
7toes 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd Solo to Solvay hut. Then moved together to summit.
with DrewB
Solo to Solvay hut. Then moved together to summit.
with DrewB
Hidden 5 Aug, 2013 Solo
Bex_M ?Aug, 2013 -
pawelx 22 Jul, 2013 - 04:00 leave the hut, 08:40 on the summit. Queues everywhere starting just below Solvay hut, would have been quicker if it wasn't for them. Since we didn't hire a Swiss guide, we were only allowed to start after all the guided parties have left the hut. 6 hours in descent, some route finding difficulties below ~3500. We did the Breithorn + slept at 3900 for acclimatization, then descended to Hornli hut the next day.
04:00 leave the hut, 08:40 on the summit. Queues everywhere starting just below Solvay hut, would have been quicker if it wasn't for them. Since we didn't hire a Swiss guide, we were only allowed to start after all the guided parties have left the hut. 6 hours in descent, some route finding difficulties below ~3500. We did the Breithorn + slept at 3900 for acclimatization, then descended to Hornli hut the next day.
JonesJ 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd Climbed with Ian Venables and was my first Alpine climb, simply immense!!! Left at 0400 once all guided parties had left. Climbed un-roped to lower Moseley Slabs before moving together roped up. Ascent slowed when we hit the summit block as we had to wait for parties to come down before we could ascend higher. 8 hours to summit in perfect weather. Took 5 hours to reach the Solvay hut where we stayed the night due to lack of daylight remaining and a predicted forecast of thunderstorms. Weather held off and descended the following day in 4 and a half hours. Moved slower than most parties but did so safely.
Climbed with Ian Venables and was my first Alpine climb, simply immense!!! Left at 0400 once all guided parties had left. Climbed un-roped to lower Moseley Slabs before moving together roped up. Ascent slowed when we hit the summit block as we had to wait for parties to come down before we could ascend higher. 8 hours to summit in perfect weather. Took 5 hours to reach the Solvay hut where we stayed the night due to lack of daylight remaining and a predicted forecast of thunderstorms. Weather held off and descended the following day in 4 and a half hours. Moved slower than most parties but did so safely.
natalie rees ?Jul, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Hidden 18 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Chris_Mullaney 11 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
Mr. K 11 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf Turned back at the Solvay hut after witnessing an Italian soloist fall off and die. Worst day of my life. 4hrs to the hut, 6hrs to get off again.
Turned back at the Solvay hut after witnessing an Italian soloist fall off and die. Worst day of my life. 4hrs to the hut, 6hrs to get off again.
cuillinman 29 Aug, 2012 - Only three days in Zermat to acclimatize because of approaching weather front so climbed Pollux then up to hut then Hornli the following day. 6 Hrs 15 mins hut to hut. Everything clicked into place resulting in a very fast time for an amazing route. Get very fit, stick to the line and its an exhilarating climb. If you are less than fit or lose the route it will be a long haul.
Only three days in Zermat to acclimatize because of approaching weather front so climbed Pollux then up to hut then Hornli the following day. 6 Hrs 15 mins hut to hut. Everything clicked into place resulting in a very fast time for an amazing route. Get very fit, stick to the line and its an exhilarating climb. If you are less than fit or lose the route it will be a long haul.
dkd 27 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Liam Ingram 18 Aug, 2012 Sent Very busy so rather slow (17h hut to hut). Amazing experience.
Very busy so rather slow (17h hut to hut). Amazing experience.
Stuart Johnston 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S In descent
with Misha Gopaul
In descent
with Misha Gopaul
Roberttaylor 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Amazing day out
Amazing day out
timmyhobby 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd β what an epic day, 5 hours up, 13 down due to helping some people in need, probably the best but most scary day of my life, defiantly not to be underestimated!!
what an epic day, 5 hours up, 13 down due to helping some people in need, probably the best but most scary day of my life, defiantly not to be underestimated!!
carrierd65 10 Aug, 2012 2nd MM Guide
with Andy Teasdale
MM Guide
with Andy Teasdale
Russell Blackaller 10 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S Made a rescue on the way down. My climbing partner Timmy was on form all day. Thank God!
Made a rescue on the way down. My climbing partner Timmy was on form all day. Thank God!
sarpedon 8 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S On foot from Zermatt to the hut, bivy at night, off at 5:30am, summit before 10am.
On foot from Zermatt to the hut, bivy at night, off at 5:30am, summit before 10am.
QuentinSu ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf
James Gordon ?Aug, 2012 -
Hidden 31 Jul, 2012 2nd
Vincej 27 Jul, 2012 2nd
with Matthew
with Matthew
Andy Hewison 27 Jul, 2012 - Good weather, 4.5 hours to the top and do both ridges. Very narrow and exposed summit ridge but it's amazing to be up there. It was a bit busy on the descent with some grumpy almost aggresive guides from other parties. Took longer on the descent and it is a never ending slog that isn't much fun.
with Fred
Good weather, 4.5 hours to the top and do both ridges. Very narrow and exposed summit ridge but it's amazing to be up there. It was a bit busy on the descent with some grumpy almost aggresive guides from other parties. Took longer on the descent and it is a never ending slog that isn't much fun.
with Fred
Gene00 ?Jul, 2012 - Set off from the Hornli hut at 4am, summit at 08:30. We had to fit crampons just below the Moseley Slab which made the ascent harder work for me. Apart from strong winds and plummeting temperatures a few hundred meters from the summit we had a fine day with clear skies at the top. There were very few teams on the mountain and we found ourselves alone on the summit. It was a great day out, although the descent is a bit of a nightmare.
Set off from the Hornli hut at 4am, summit at 08:30. We had to fit crampons just below the Moseley Slab which made the ascent harder work for me. Apart from strong winds and plummeting temperatures a few hundred meters from the summit we had a fine day with clear skies at the top. There were very few teams on the mountain and we found ourselves alone on the summit. It was a great day out, although the descent is a bit of a nightmare.
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
robpartridge 31 Mar, 2012 AltLd Winter ascent of the Hornli, so good to have the mountain to ourselves.
with John Cummings
Winter ascent of the Hornli, so good to have the mountain to ourselves.
with John Cummings
johnrc 30 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S finally ticked matterhorn winter. 2 and half days on the mountain thanks to a morning storm, knee deep powder and bullet ice. ended up with frost bite and shredded gear but what an epic climb and view. -25 in the solvay hut with no sleeping bag was an experience not to forget. thanks to rob for teachig the alpine style and taking sweet shots.
with robnz
finally ticked matterhorn winter. 2 and half days on the mountain thanks to a morning storm, knee deep powder and bullet ice. ended up with frost bite and shredded gear but what an epic climb and view. -25 in the solvay hut with no sleeping bag was an experience not to forget. thanks to rob for teachig the alpine style and taking sweet shots.
with robnz
darcan ??, 2012 AltLd
with chris bailey
with chris bailey
wilkie14c 1 Sep, 2011 -
with Dave Clarke
with Dave Clarke
callum brown ?Sep, 2011 -
Loubylou 30 Aug, 2011 2nd Was beasted up but got back to the Hornli hut for lunch around 1.30. 4 and a half hours up and same down. Hardest part was the fixed ropes at the top and the total determination needed as there was zero encouragement!
with Klaus Tscherrig
Was beasted up but got back to the Hornli hut for lunch around 1.30. 4 and a half hours up and same down. Hardest part was the fixed ropes at the top and the total determination needed as there was zero encouragement!
with Klaus Tscherrig
Chris Ellyatt 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd β Amazing day - great weather. So happy to finally do this route, loved it.
with Paul Windross
Amazing day - great weather. So happy to finally do this route, loved it.
with Paul Windross
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 -
carlh 19 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S A fantastic day and climbed on the back of Stok Kangri (6153m) the previous week. John (Makin) and I were still acclimatised and fit, but tired after 4 flights and several time zones in the previous few days. I led the majority of the route and we moved together/I short roped John for all but one section during the descent. We were slower than we'd have liked to have been, but the good weather window was wide enough to allow us to summit at 11am and get off the mountain (with a sleep at the gondala station) in time for breakfast the following morning! A big day out and approx 3000m of descent from the summit to our breakfast in Zermatt... we didn't bother waiting for the Gondala down!
A fantastic day and climbed on the back of Stok Kangri (6153m) the previous week. John (Makin) and I were still acclimatised and fit, but tired after 4 flights and several time zones in the previous few days. I led the majority of the route and we moved together/I short roped John for all but one section during the descent. We were slower than we'd have liked to have been, but the good weather window was wide enough to allow us to summit at 11am and get off the mountain (with a sleep at the gondala station) in time for breakfast the following morning! A big day out and approx 3000m of descent from the summit to our breakfast in Zermatt... we didn't bother waiting for the Gondala down!
Timo Austino 14 Aug, 2011 - Awesome day out - camped and got ahead of the masses early on (rabbit in the headlights springs to mind!) amazing route and atmosphere - the descent was ok until i uttered the immortal words... hey i think we've done really well not to get lost.... on the main route the rock's sound but too far off and its a bit chossy.. still amazing day out - well done Nat
with Nat and Ali and Mike and Mark
Awesome day out - camped and got ahead of the masses early on (rabbit in the headlights springs to mind!) amazing route and atmosphere - the descent was ok until i uttered the immortal words... hey i think we've done really well not to get lost.... on the main route the rock's sound but too far off and its a bit chossy.. still amazing day out - well done Nat
with Nat and Ali and Mike and Mark
dkd 13 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
with Al
with Al
Hidden 12 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Peter Holder 3 Sep, 2010 -
with nv, Lew13
with nv, Lew13
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 AltLd
j4kub 3 Sep, 2010 AltLd dnf got to the solvay hut - i'll be back!
with dave davey
got to the solvay hut - i'll be back!
with dave davey
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
moskitp 1 Sep, 2010 -
Paulcmountain ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S great day out with no walkin! Moved together up then soloed down onced past the bivvy hut
great day out with no walkin! Moved together up then soloed down onced past the bivvy hut
Skinny Kin 31 Aug, 2010 Solo Made it to Sovay Refuge hut. Too hot that day. Running out of water and food. Snow melting on 1st Moseley Slab. Time to head back down. Next time I'll try to take the cable car up instead of walking from Zermatt train station. Mammoth task!
Made it to Sovay Refuge hut. Too hot that day. Running out of water and food. Snow melting on 1st Moseley Slab. Time to head back down. Next time I'll try to take the cable car up instead of walking from Zermatt train station. Mammoth task!
dscnly 26 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide
with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide
donkster 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf
mark-abz 10 Aug, 2010 -
with Alex
with Alex
Gezzer 2 Aug, 2010 - Didn't make the summit due to poor weather and low visibility.
with Nick Ellaway
Didn't make the summit due to poor weather and low visibility.
with Nick Ellaway
Coops_13 23 Jul, 2010 2nd dnf Got to 3740m, turned round due to snow. Massive thunderstorm as we arrived back to hut!
with Remi
Got to 3740m, turned round due to snow. Massive thunderstorm as we arrived back to hut!
with Remi
Hidden 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
cliffy 18 Jul, 2010 -
Adi Hooper 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd Left the Swiss summit at 12.30pm and arrived at the Hornli Hut at 7.00pm. Moving together all the time.
with Roger Ward
Left the Swiss summit at 12.30pm and arrived at the Hornli Hut at 7.00pm. Moving together all the time.
with Roger Ward
Julian Prieto 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 16 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Kevin O'Neale
with Kevin O'Neale
guyscott 13 Jul, 2010 2nd dnf Turned back 150m from top due to weather. What a pisser.
with Klas
Turned back 150m from top due to weather. What a pisser.
with Klas
Thomas Healing 10 Jul, 2010 Lead Great experience, start early and Move quick ;-)
Great experience, start early and Move quick ;-)
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Tommy Harris 1 Oct, 2009 - Awesome...
with Kieron Belcher, matt Kemp, phillip belcher
Awesome...
with Kieron Belcher, matt Kemp, phillip belcher
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 Lead
mattkemp70 ?Oct, 2009 AltLd
with Tommy and kieron
with Tommy and kieron
Hidden 11 Sep, 2009 -
Hidden 10 Sep, 2009 2nd
nick bamber ?Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with martin knight
with martin knight
Hidden 30 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 19 Aug, 2009 -
Hidden 17 Aug, 2009 -
kevburr 14 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
with Roger Payne
Nigel Mackwood 13 Aug, 2009 Solo O/S Keeping it slow but sure, I took 16 hours hut to hut. Although the conditions were probabaly as good as they can be, the approach and descent to/from the summit was still a bit icy without being roped up.
Keeping it slow but sure, I took 16 hours hut to hut. Although the conditions were probabaly as good as they can be, the approach and descent to/from the summit was still a bit icy without being roped up.
bigbobbyking 12 Aug, 2009 - and Peter Hill.
with Myr
and Peter Hill.
with Myr
Jonny M 1 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
GiveHerHelen 1 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Jonny M
with Jonny M
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
Bristoldave ?Aug, 2009 Lead Busy but awesome
Busy but awesome
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd
CarolineH ?Aug, 2009 -
Chris Plewa ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2009 2nd
Scott McRae 29 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Awesome, atmospheric route. Absolutely huge! Completed in 4.40 up and 4.30 down.
with Stefano
Awesome, atmospheric route. Absolutely huge! Completed in 4.40 up and 4.30 down.
with Stefano
Hidden 21 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
dave.mowle 11 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S awesome
with Paul 'I'm equal to it' Summers
awesome
with Paul 'I'm equal to it' Summers
colenn 5 Jul, 2009 AltLd In descent
with Peter Britton, aennis
In descent
with Peter Britton, aennis
aennis 5 Jul, 2009 - In Descent
with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
In Descent
with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 2nd
will_lake 21 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
with Guide
with Guide
featuresforfeet 8 Aug, 2008 AltLd dnf Got to snowfield and turned back due to too much fresh snow. 5 hours up, 8 down. Missed last cable car. Walked back to Zermatt. Arse.
with Steve
Got to snowfield and turned back due to too much fresh snow. 5 hours up, 8 down. Missed last cable car. Walked back to Zermatt. Arse.
with Steve
irish paul ?Aug, 2008 AltLd Not as loose as seemingly made out [mind, we did follow a guided party]. Route finding in the lower section is a nightmare first time. Helped rescue two Italians caught in a rockfall. worth doing solely for the history but nothing special about the climbing barr the top snowfield...
with Ed
Not as loose as seemingly made out [mind, we did follow a guided party]. Route finding in the lower section is a nightmare first time. Helped rescue two Italians caught in a rockfall. worth doing solely for the history but nothing special about the climbing barr the top snowfield...
with Ed
Guy Wilson ?Aug, 2008 - In Descent
with Byron Buck
In Descent
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus ?Aug, 2008 - In descent after climbing Italian Ridge
In descent after climbing Italian Ridge
davepc ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with anthony
with anthony
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S in descent
with Steve Becwith
in descent
with Steve Becwith
hilled101 ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Irish
with Irish
Hidden 30 Jul, 2008 Solo
sacdenouilles 10 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Graham Burns
with Graham Burns
Hidden 5 Jul, 2008 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
KRB 28 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S My best mountain day ever. By all accounts we made the 1st ascent this season and we were the only 2 people on the whole mountain. Still a lot of soft snow on the slabs which had turned into a constant waterfall by the time we descended. Chris's 1st trip to the Alps with borrowed crampons and ice axe and my 1st proper trip for 28 years. Ran all the way back to Zermatt giving an 18 hour day start to finish. Great weather, great mountain, great memories, perfect day.
with Chris Bridges
My best mountain day ever. By all accounts we made the 1st ascent this season and we were the only 2 people on the whole mountain. Still a lot of soft snow on the slabs which had turned into a constant waterfall by the time we descended. Chris's 1st trip to the Alps with borrowed crampons and ice axe and my 1st proper trip for 28 years. Ran all the way back to Zermatt giving an 18 hour day start to finish. Great weather, great mountain, great memories, perfect day.
with Chris Bridges
AndrewJenkins ??, 2008 -
Peter Metcalfe 21 Sep, 2007 Lead Try it in late September after the hut closes for the season: when we were there mountain was virtually deserted and the weather was superb. Don't believe the Zermatt Guides' Office who insist that there's gas in the Hornlihutte's Winter Room! Plenty of blankets though.
with Sophia
Try it in late September after the hut closes for the season: when we were there mountain was virtually deserted and the weather was superb. Don't believe the Zermatt Guides' Office who insist that there's gas in the Hornlihutte's Winter Room! Plenty of blankets though.
with Sophia
dan gibson 15 Sep, 2007 AltLd rpt
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Adam Booth 7 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Roel
with Roel
Andrew1 6 Sep, 2007 AltLd dnf
with Juliet Parker Smith
with Juliet Parker Smith
Joubert ?Aug, 2007 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 -
CMorris 14 Sep, 2006 Lead
with Jonny Shallcross
with Jonny Shallcross
IanGilbertJones 25 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Richard Garnett
with Richard Garnett
Brian Birtle ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with German Thomas
with German Thomas
industrialiceman 27 Jul, 2005 2nd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2005 2nd
Celia Watson 10 Jul, 2005 Lead
martinuk1001 ?Jul, 2005 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 2004 Lead
ashpreston ??, 2004 AltLd dnf Retreated from the solvay in storm
Retreated from the solvay in storm
dan gibson ?Sep, 2003 Solo
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 Solo
Neil Henson ?Jul, 2003 AltLd Got to just past the shoulder (approx.100m from summit) and decided to turn back as was getting too late. Very nearly benighted on the descent. Spent 18 exhausting hours on this route and still didn't complete it. Have to go back and do it, but didn't enjoy the climbing much. Very loose and lots of dodging other peoples crampons. Will prepare better next time. A route not to be underestimated.
with Mark Collins
Got to just past the shoulder (approx.100m from summit) and decided to turn back as was getting too late. Very nearly benighted on the descent. Spent 18 exhausting hours on this route and still didn't complete it. Have to go back and do it, but didn't enjoy the climbing much. Very loose and lots of dodging other peoples crampons. Will prepare better next time. A route not to be underestimated.
with Mark Collins
DerwentDiluted ?Jul, 2003 Solo dnf Got to Moseley slabs, retreated in thunderstorm.
with Tim Stain
Got to Moseley slabs, retreated in thunderstorm.
with Tim Stain
Gudge ?Mar, 2003 -
with gwh
with gwh
SB_NWUK_99 ??, 2003 AltLd Guideless ascent in the hot summer of 2003. Part of the route had been changed due to a collapse in the previous week...
Guideless ascent in the hot summer of 2003. Part of the route had been changed due to a collapse in the previous week...
Andy Clarke 1 Aug, 2001 AltLd Success at the third attempt. Sunny day: route just coming into condition as recent snow melted. About 60 people on it in all - not too many, considering how crowded it can get. Soloed up to Moseley Slab, then climbed roped. Lucky we did: higher up, while passing a slower party, a fair sized chunk came off in both hands and I took a plummet. Mike out of sight, but still held me: undoubtedly saved both our lives. About an hour later realised my hand was running with blood from rope burns on every segment of every finger. So much adrenaline, hadn't felt it till then. Put gloves on and carried on. 5 hrs up, but 8 down. Quick handshake to celebrate. Resigned to missing last chairlift and bivvying, but arrived to discover it was Swiss National Day and a huge party was in full swing at the station, with lifts running till late. Watched a firework display over Zermatt. Strange to be looking down on all the starbursts. Finally got back to tent about 2.00 am, finished off hip flask of whisky and began painstakingly removing bits of glove lining from all the burns. Amazing day.
with MikeW
Success at the third attempt. Sunny day: route just coming into condition as recent snow melted. About 60 people on it in all - not too many, considering how crowded it can get. Soloed up to Moseley Slab, then climbed roped. Lucky we did: higher up, while passing a slower party, a fair sized chunk came off in both hands and I took a plummet. Mike out of sight, but still held me: undoubtedly saved both our lives. About an hour later realised my hand was running with blood from rope burns on every segment of every finger. So much adrenaline, hadn't felt it till then. Put gloves on and carried on. 5 hrs up, but 8 down. Quick handshake to celebrate. Resigned to missing last chairlift and bivvying, but arrived to discover it was Swiss National Day and a huge party was in full swing at the station, with lifts running till late. Watched a firework display over Zermatt. Strange to be looking down on all the starbursts. Finally got back to tent about 2.00 am, finished off hip flask of whisky and began painstakingly removing bits of glove lining from all the burns. Amazing day.
with MikeW
Andy Clarke 10 Aug, 2000 AltLd dnf Challenging conditions, but decided to give it a go. Snow and verglas everywhere - climbing with both axes at times. Out of our depth, really. Only two other teams on the mountain. Got as far as the Solvay, then decided to retreat. But a fantastic day out - worth it for the view from the Solvay, and the sight of our single track of footprints in the snow. A real sense of privilege, in having such a popular mountain virtually to ourselves. Back next year.
with MikeW
Challenging conditions, but decided to give it a go. Snow and verglas everywhere - climbing with both axes at times. Out of our depth, really. Only two other teams on the mountain. Got as far as the Solvay, then decided to retreat. But a fantastic day out - worth it for the view from the Solvay, and the sight of our single track of footprints in the snow. A real sense of privilege, in having such a popular mountain virtually to ourselves. Back next year.
with MikeW
Hidden ??, 2000 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??, 1998 -
Bilbo 9 Aug, 1997 - 9th Aug Head torch failed 30 mins after setting off @ 02:30 - slow climbing in the dark until dawn at 06:30. Climbed to 4270mts (200mts) below summit before reluctantly turning round, too late in the day to continue safely. Return another time better acclimatized.
with Steve
9th Aug Head torch failed 30 mins after setting off @ 02:30 - slow climbing in the dark until dawn at 06:30. Climbed to 4270mts (200mts) below summit before reluctantly turning round, too late in the day to continue safely. Return another time better acclimatized.
with Steve
Bilbo 8 Aug, 1997 - 7th Aug descended from Briethorn and carried camping gear up to near the Hornli Hut. Most people descending after weeks of poor weather and no succesful summits this season. 8th Aug Quick recce to 500 mts below the Solvay hut in glorious and unexpected sunshine after an atrocious night of lightning strikes on the scree nearby and snowfall whilst camping below the East face not far from Hornli hut.
with Steve
7th Aug descended from Briethorn and carried camping gear up to near the Hornli Hut. Most people descending after weeks of poor weather and no succesful summits this season. 8th Aug Quick recce to 500 mts below the Solvay hut in glorious and unexpected sunshine after an atrocious night of lightning strikes on the scree nearby and snowfall whilst camping below the East face not far from Hornli hut.
with Steve
Martyn ?Sep, 1996 Solo dnf Only had one day on route. Got about 1/3 way up past Hornli hut befor retreating do to time.
with Rob Boylin
Only had one day on route. Got about 1/3 way up past Hornli hut befor retreating do to time.
with Rob Boylin
michaelb1 ?Aug, 1996 - Long day 14hours
with Robert Durkin
Long day 14hours
with Robert Durkin
craig h ?Aug, 1996 Solo Forgot the gas for the stove, so had to cough up for an evening meal at the hut, we bivied. 5 hours up and 3.5 down. Got the rope out to abseil 1 section as we had carried it, and were held up by ascending parties.
with Janet Hannah
Forgot the gas for the stove, so had to cough up for an evening meal at the hut, we bivied. 5 hours up and 3.5 down. Got the rope out to abseil 1 section as we had carried it, and were held up by ascending parties.
with Janet Hannah
Iain Thow 19 Jul, 1996 Lead
with Liz Jolley
with Liz Jolley
tompercy ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
gallonj ??, 1996 - Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli
Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli
Dom Goodwin 30 Jul, 1995 -
with Peter
with Peter
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 Solo
NeilGriffiths ?Aug, 1994 -
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
michaelja ?Mar, 1994 - With Frank M. Very strong N wind.
With Frank M. Very strong N wind.
paul_j_burgess ?Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S Good to get the tick on this. What a bloody circus it was, people everywhere. Guides dragging very unfit people up on the end of a rope. If I never go back to this route I'll be happy.
with Glenn Latham
Good to get the tick on this. What a bloody circus it was, people everywhere. Guides dragging very unfit people up on the end of a rope. If I never go back to this route I'll be happy.
with Glenn Latham
Stefan Jacobsen ??, 1993 AltLd
with Kåre Jacobsen
with Kåre Jacobsen
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 1992 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 1990 Lead
Richard Weller 10 Aug, 1990 - In descent
with Richard White
In descent
with Richard White
brianrunner ?Aug, 1990 AltLd
with John Thomson
with John Thomson
Conan ?Jul, 1990 Solo O/S Caught in rockfall, close escape!
Caught in rockfall, close escape!
colinthrelfall ?Aug, 1988 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 1987 Solo
mark-abz ?Aug, 1987 AltLd
with Andy W
with Andy W
dtalbot 6 Sep, 1986 -
with Margret
with Margret
Mickdenali ?Jul, 1985 Solo
Alex Thomson ?Jul, 1985 -
Simon4 ?Jul, 1981 - Second ever Alpine route
Second ever Alpine route
DonnyDave 25 Jul, 1980 AltLd A very busy day on the mountain, (lots of guided "climbers" too). Never made the top as a massive storm was looming, and far too many people to fit in the Solvay Hut, so we made a quick descent. Just got to the hut at the bottom as the storm hit.
with Mick Ward, Steve Sykes
A very busy day on the mountain, (lots of guided "climbers" too). Never made the top as a massive storm was looming, and far too many people to fit in the Solvay Hut, so we made a quick descent. Just got to the hut at the bottom as the storm hit.
with Mick Ward, Steve Sykes
RichardMc 3 Aug, 1979 -
with Angel Vila
with Angel Vila
Nigel Bond 20 Aug, 1975 Solo Time 5.5hrs to summit, Cy return to hut after a short distance I soloed to the Salvey hut and then joined an Austrian party. 6 hr descent to the hut and a 6hr walk back to the campsite near Zermatt. Very pleased with a successful ascent.
with Cy and Austrian Party
Time 5.5hrs to summit, Cy return to hut after a short distance I soloed to the Salvey hut and then joined an Austrian party. 6 hr descent to the hut and a 6hr walk back to the campsite near Zermatt. Very pleased with a successful ascent.
with Cy and Austrian Party
Ken Taylor 15 Jul, 1975 AltLd
with Stuart Scott, Howard Jones, Frank Barnes
with Stuart Scott, Howard Jones, Frank Barnes
Howard J 14 Jul, 1975 AltLd O/S We walked up from Zermatt (poor students, couldn't afford the cablecar) and waited for several days for the weather to clear. Did it mostly unroped (lack of competence rather than boldness), tied on at Moseley Slab. Made a very early start to get ahead of the crowds. A long and arduous day but well worth it. The day before my 21st birthday, so a double celebration when we got down. Walking back down through the meadows to Zermatt and smelling the flowers after 4 days above the snow line was nearly as memorable as the route itself.
with Reading University MC
We walked up from Zermatt (poor students, couldn't afford the cablecar) and waited for several days for the weather to clear. Did it mostly unroped (lack of competence rather than boldness), tied on at Moseley Slab. Made a very early start to get ahead of the crowds. A long and arduous day but well worth it. The day before my 21st birthday, so a double celebration when we got down. Walking back down through the meadows to Zermatt and smelling the flowers after 4 days above the snow line was nearly as memorable as the route itself.
with Reading University MC
Hidden 14 Aug, 1973 -
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Voting
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Votes cast 35
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
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Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set