95m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the all-time Mid Wales classic routes that weaves its way up a stunningly-located buttress. The views and climbing are well worth the effort of both the wait for a dry period and the longish approach drive. The climb gets plenty of ascents and the rock is solid and clear of vegetation.
1) 25m. Climb the cleanest line up leftwards and then back right to a belay below steeper ground.
2) 8m. Move up and then rightwards to out-flank the steepest ground, before accessing good ledges above.
3) 14m. Traverse left along the ledge and continue to a ramp. Move up the ramp and then make an interesting traverse left across a slab before ascending to a good ledge.
4) 14m. Move left along the ledge and continue via a gap to moves slightly down, and then up and leftwards, to a belay at an overhung ledge close to the arete.
5) 8m. Move left around the arete - exposed - and climb steeply on good holds to easier ground and a belay on a tree.
6) 20m. Scramble up to, and then stand on, a large block. Make an awkward move up the corner above and finish up easier ground to grassy ledges on top of the buttress. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is a popular route due to its inclusion in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book. A rising traverse left across the buttress. Start at the middle of the buttress at a break in the vegetation. The pitches are optional and many are done together, i.e. 1-2 and 3-4.
1) 25m. Follow the initial weakness towards a small tree and a large block. After the block climb a rightward-slanting slab to a short wall and take this to a good stance to the right.
2) 8m. Climb an obvious crack above to a bulge, and then traverse up a ramp to an obvious ledge where a nut-slot belay can be taken. Just above you there should be a small square block of stone protruding from the cliff face.
3) 15m. Follow the ledge leftwards around a bulge in the rock-face, passing a small spike to gain a short ramp. Go up this with little difficulty and move delicately across a slab to an obvious crack. Climb the crack to the next ledge and set up a belay.
4) 17m. Walk along the ledge and step over a gap to a stance under a small overhang. Carry on traversing left along the gradually slanting rock-face which has some good holds. Finally climb up to a ledge close to the arête under an overhanging wall.
5) 8m. Move to the arête and feel around the corner for the jug in a very exposed position. Climb on good holds to a large ledge and a tree to belay from.
6) 18m. The last pitch is a series of large square blocks. Climb up the blocks at first rightwards then leftwards towards a small tree in a crack. Finish by climbing the crack. A nut slot on the right and a thread on the left for anchors.
The descent is over the back and down the gully and can be slippery when wet!

Ticklists

Classic Rock, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Andrew Holden 14 Sep Lead
Hidden 10 Sep AltLd O/S
Toby 24 Aug AltLd
with Nate
with Nate
sarahsuth 3 Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug AltLd O/S
Oliver Houston 3 Aug AltLd O/S
Different Steve 2 Aug 2nd
with John Buchan, Sylwia
with John Buchan, Sylwia
ssutton 28 Jul Lead O/S Led in 3Ps. The first pitch is a bit bold for the grade, but the traverse has good pro.
Led in 3Ps. The first pitch is a bit bold for the grade, but the traverse has good pro.
Ruth O'Brien 28 Jul 2nd O/S
with ssutton
with ssutton
Matt Smith 26 Jul AltLd O/S In 3 pitches. A nice route, but not on same level as other Classic Rock routes, the traverse being the only memorable section. Walk in was a bit grim with tall bracken.
In 3 pitches. A nice route, but not on same level as other Classic Rock routes, the traverse being the only memorable section. Walk in was a bit grim with tall bracken.
Hidden 26 Jul AltLd O/S
Butel 3 Jul Solo O/S
afearn91 30 Jun Lead O/S
LeaGrey12 30 Jun 2nd
Bradbury 22 Jun AltLd O/S In 4 pitches. Mary led the arete after the traverse. Followed by Luke and Byron
with Mary Winter
In 4 pitches. Mary led the arete after the traverse. Followed by Luke and Byron
with Mary Winter
jcdavy 28 May Lead rpt
with Kat Kamperi
with Kat Kamperi
Hidden 27 May AltLd
Hidden 25 May AltLd
silentmajority 12 May 2nd O/S Classic Rock ticklist #17. Possibly the most glorious situation for a climb, no polish and a thoroughly pleasing outing
Classic Rock ticklist #17. Possibly the most glorious situation for a climb, no polish and a thoroughly pleasing outing
JoeCoxson 11 May Solo O/S Lovely setting, and just the right level of exposure for my hungover brain. Bit wet on the first pitch, but not any harder
Lovely setting, and just the right level of exposure for my hungover brain. Bit wet on the first pitch, but not any harder
Hidden 6 May AltLd O/S
Wayne S 6 May AltLd O/S
jcdavy 21 Apr AltLd
with Garnham
with Garnham
Hidden 20 Apr -
jessieleong 20 Apr AltLd O/S Fab climb. mark did p1 and p4, I did p2-p3. Use the top the mountaineering club provide ( see UKC link) and you’ll find it super helpful ( plus also useful to help identify other bits of the crag) lots of heather bashing to get to the base! Not for the faint hearted! But little slate descriptions is a thoughtful and nice reassurance. Great route!
with Mark bullock
Fab climb. mark did p1 and p4, I did p2-p3. Use the top the mountaineering club provide ( see UKC link) and you’ll find it super helpful ( plus also useful to help identify other bits of the crag) lots of heather bashing to get to the base! Not for the faint hearted! But little slate descriptions is a thoughtful and nice reassurance. Great route!
with Mark bullock
Hidden 11 Apr Lead O/S
Christian Weaver 11 Apr 2nd O/S
with Jon Haycock
with Jon Haycock
Hidden ?Apr AltLd
RIK942 31 Mar AltLd
with Ann Shellard, Mike Wilson
with Ann Shellard, Mike Wilson
Hidden ?? -
Merlin 28 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S In approach shoes. Pitch 2 & 3 are worth the approach and the rest of the route. Traversed too far on pitch 4, if you end up in the corner you’ve gone too far, keep close to the arete.
with Chubbs
In approach shoes. Pitch 2 & 3 are worth the approach and the rest of the route. Traversed too far on pitch 4, if you end up in the corner you’ve gone too far, keep close to the arete.
with Chubbs
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf
Chubbs 28 Oct, 2018 -
with Merlin
with Merlin
lewissalt23 20 Sep, 2018 AltLd
swmackey 28 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Al Topping
with Al Topping
skinne 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S We had thought we were heading for Tap y Gigfran and Jack of Diamonds, but thanks to the local climbing club's recent efforts to clear tracks and clean routes, we were funnelled to the base of this, where there was a helpful slate leaning against the wall with "Will o'the Wisp, Bluebell Babylon and Touch of Class" scratched into it. Thus, we decided to go at Will o' the Wisp, in the rain. As mentioned before, the approach notes, and the route description are not massively helpful, better to follow your nose, and the cleanest looking rock, except for the long traverse where heading up either just before or after the step across the gap is very very tempting... Keep going for the arete, and the rope drag. We were using the Meirionnydd guide, which also has two topos which seem to contradict both one another and the route description? Anyways, the climbing was ok, although as it was raining, there was a bit of mud here and there, although very little in the way of polish to follow. Absolutely tonnes and tonnes of ripe bilberries over the top as a reward for the approach and the wet climbing. Idyllic setting and scenery.
with Martyn
We had thought we were heading for Tap y Gigfran and Jack of Diamonds, but thanks to the local climbing club's recent efforts to clear tracks and clean routes, we were funnelled to the base of this, where there was a helpful slate leaning against the wall with "Will o'the Wisp, Bluebell Babylon and Touch of Class" scratched into it. Thus, we decided to go at Will o' the Wisp, in the rain. As mentioned before, the approach notes, and the route description are not massively helpful, better to follow your nose, and the cleanest looking rock, except for the long traverse where heading up either just before or after the step across the gap is very very tempting... Keep going for the arete, and the rope drag. We were using the Meirionnydd guide, which also has two topos which seem to contradict both one another and the route description? Anyways, the climbing was ok, although as it was raining, there was a bit of mud here and there, although very little in the way of polish to follow. Absolutely tonnes and tonnes of ripe bilberries over the top as a reward for the approach and the wet climbing. Idyllic setting and scenery.
with Martyn
Jonnaylor 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd 4 pitches...started in the rain...finished in sunshine!
with Ivor
4 pitches...started in the rain...finished in sunshine!
with Ivor
jennie.s 5 Aug, 2018 2nd Fun route, completed in 3 pitches. 1hr approach
with Christopher Davis
Fun route, completed in 3 pitches. 1hr approach
with Christopher Davis
Different Steve 2 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Rob Burns, Robert Ellam
with Rob Burns, Robert Ellam
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dell 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
KristianBirchall 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Kris pitch 1, 3 and 5 Claire pitch 2, 4 and 6 Hard approach, easy moves, not as chossy as it looks. Scenic and nice traverse in middle
with Claire Chadderton
Kris pitch 1, 3 and 5 Claire pitch 2, 4 and 6 Hard approach, easy moves, not as chossy as it looks. Scenic and nice traverse in middle
with Claire Chadderton
biggianthead 7 Jun, 2018 -
with G
with G
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
with Pete aka Dad
Bartosz 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
mark4344 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Only came for classic rock tick,but really enjoyed the route and atmosphere of a lovely quiet valley.climbed in perfect sunshine,great rock and route easy to follow. For walk in,have faith in the left hand fork,it does come,even though you initially walk a long way away from the crag.
with Bartosz
Only came for classic rock tick,but really enjoyed the route and atmosphere of a lovely quiet valley.climbed in perfect sunshine,great rock and route easy to follow. For walk in,have faith in the left hand fork,it does come,even though you initially walk a long way away from the crag.
with Bartosz
foostu4 27 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S
Tilt 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with LDJ
with LDJ
Eike 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Lee Johnson, Amy Till
with Lee Johnson, Amy Till
LDJ 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Eike, Tilt
with Eike, Tilt
Blanka 1 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with Lizzy (Bowline)
with Lizzy (Bowline)
Liz.Morrison 1 Jul, 2017 2nd β First trad climb, wonderful!
with Blanka
First trad climb, wonderful!
with Blanka
andyclimber 1 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S In hot pursuit of fellow Bowliners who'd got out of bed earlier than us. Led pitches 1, 2 and 5.
In hot pursuit of fellow Bowliners who'd got out of bed earlier than us. Led pitches 1, 2 and 5.
bidean 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
ned_85 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Ollie Hoffmann, Tom Mackenzie, Scott Marc Berry
with Ollie Hoffmann, Tom Mackenzie, Scott Marc Berry
Jake397 28 May, 2017 AltLd
with Storme
with Storme
Storme 28 May, 2017 AltLd
with Jake397
with Jake397
partz 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S Cool fun day out. Bit of a slog to get there, but very quiet and peaceful
Cool fun day out. Bit of a slog to get there, but very quiet and peaceful
MarkRoe 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S In 3 pitches. I led first and third.
with Ann Marie Raikes
In 3 pitches. I led first and third.
with Ann Marie Raikes
five 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with ALA
with ALA
bob johnson 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Bram
with Bram
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 2nd
Helen Rudkin 20 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Tom Frankland
with Tom Frankland
PAJames ??, 2017 -
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
abbieparry ??, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
67hours 29 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
with CatO
with CatO
Ross Davidson 29 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S Not very good
Not very good
Matt Harmon 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p5+6 as one, in trainers
Led p5+6 as one, in trainers
Sarah Roscoe 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd led P1-4 as two pitches. Matt led 5+6 as one pitch
led P1-4 as two pitches. Matt led 5+6 as one pitch
Marti999 14 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 4 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Simon Caldwell 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd rpt In 3 pitches (1+2, 3+4, 5+6). I led the middle (traverse). Enjoyed it much more than last time, it's a lot less vegetated than 16 years ago! Not sure about HVD, felt closer to Diff (Corvus is harder).
with Lemming
In 3 pitches (1+2, 3+4, 5+6). I led the middle (traverse). Enjoyed it much more than last time, it's a lot less vegetated than 16 years ago! Not sure about HVD, felt closer to Diff (Corvus is harder).
with Lemming
Jamie Brown 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S In 4 pitches. Led P1 and 2 (together) and P5 crux pitch. Traversed too far round the arête and climbed the steep corner instead which felt a lot harder. Probably missed out on the best bit of the route!
with Pete Bradshaw
In 4 pitches. Led P1 and 2 (together) and P5 crux pitch. Traversed too far round the arête and climbed the steep corner instead which felt a lot harder. Probably missed out on the best bit of the route!
with Pete Bradshaw
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd
DMC 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitches 3 and 4 as one.
with Richard Bower, Chris Murray
Led pitches 3 and 4 as one.
with Richard Bower, Chris Murray
Chris Murray 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd Led P1+2, an 5+6. P1 wet and not overly well protected.
with DMC, Richard Bower
Led P1+2, an 5+6. P1 wet and not overly well protected.
with DMC, Richard Bower
aiyer 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead P 1&2 linked, P4 and P6. Nice moves!
Lead P 1&2 linked, P4 and P6. Nice moves!
Ollie Keynes 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd Lovely climbing in a lovely place
with Martin, Aby
Lovely climbing in a lovely place
with Martin, Aby
markK6 14 Aug, 2016 Lead Enjoyable route linked p1 and p2 together which were streaming with water down to my armpits
Enjoyable route linked p1 and p2 together which were streaming with water down to my armpits
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Matt Schwarz 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S linked 1/2 katie did 3 me 4, katie linked 5/6. approach path not great but really nice climb!
with Katie S
linked 1/2 katie did 3 me 4, katie linked 5/6. approach path not great but really nice climb!
with Katie S
Katie S 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
manmike 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S The rock is clean, the guide book descriptions of little use but the climbing is great in a superb setting.
The rock is clean, the guide book descriptions of little use but the climbing is great in a superb setting.
Dazluke2000 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd Led pitch 1, 3 and 6
with Tommy OReilly
Led pitch 1, 3 and 6
with Tommy OReilly
Ste Ridd 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jun, 2016 -
beds74 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd After reading the negative comments I was originally put off from this route, only doing it, cause it was one of my Classic Rock ticks...sad... Firstly don't let the comments put you off, most of which are from people who have not actually stopped and looked at the approach to the crag and just hacked their way up the hill side!! Approach is: Past farm, over the style on your left (the crag by the way is the one directly in front of you in the car park as guide is confusing and massively over described route descriptions...) about 4/500m up the hill a cheeky left is vaguely marked with a small cairn this should be roughly in line with the forest plantation. Head left on small path until your in the middle of the two forest plantations with a small scree/grass gully (steep) running in the middle of them. Head up (*You can see the 2 small overhangs of rock that you need to traverse under clearly on the crag, the massive roof described in the guide you can't see because it's round on the left side of the crag...) until you obviously bear right under the crag for approx. 50m small one metre whiteish rock on the floor. Head upto foot of crag where you should be greeted with the only cleanish bit of rock! Pitch 1. You should be in line with the main farm buildings by now. As for the route we thought it was great fun, very clean easy did it in big boots, ignore route description just keep traversing left on obvious traverse line after pitch 2, (did it in 3 pitches) until you hit the roof/arête, round this and up. Great!
with Johnny Spiller
After reading the negative comments I was originally put off from this route, only doing it, cause it was one of my Classic Rock ticks...sad... Firstly don't let the comments put you off, most of which are from people who have not actually stopped and looked at the approach to the crag and just hacked their way up the hill side!! Approach is: Past farm, over the style on your left (the crag by the way is the one directly in front of you in the car park as guide is confusing and massively over described route descriptions...) about 4/500m up the hill a cheeky left is vaguely marked with a small cairn this should be roughly in line with the forest plantation. Head left on small path until your in the middle of the two forest plantations with a small scree/grass gully (steep) running in the middle of them. Head up (*You can see the 2 small overhangs of rock that you need to traverse under clearly on the crag, the massive roof described in the guide you can't see because it's round on the left side of the crag...) until you obviously bear right under the crag for approx. 50m small one metre whiteish rock on the floor. Head upto foot of crag where you should be greeted with the only cleanish bit of rock! Pitch 1. You should be in line with the main farm buildings by now. As for the route we thought it was great fun, very clean easy did it in big boots, ignore route description just keep traversing left on obvious traverse line after pitch 2, (did it in 3 pitches) until you hit the roof/arête, round this and up. Great!
with Johnny Spiller
sdrawkcabeoj 4 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
with Ken Priest
with Ken Priest
yossarian714 30 May, 2016 Solo O/S
KevB 25 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Loki
with Loki
Hidden 15 May, 2016 2nd
crag_hopper_Jay 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
AngelaC 14 May, 2016 AltLd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
iainpowell ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 AltLd
Tim Francis 11 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
sarahrowlands 28 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Rich first.
Rich first.
richardsavill 28 Sep, 2015 AltLd
dobby 200 13 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt Guiding Rusty up his first trad route
with Rusty
Guiding Rusty up his first trad route
with Rusty
maty500 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S The walk in is as bad as previously described, horrific is the word I'd use. Apart from pitch 5 I'm not sure the route deserves 3 stars.
The walk in is as bad as previously described, horrific is the word I'd use. Apart from pitch 5 I'm not sure the route deserves 3 stars.
andrewmc 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1, 2 and 5 (moving together). Horrible walk-in and somewhat disappointing; flashes of brilliance, the odd excellent move but then replaced by more of the same walking across easy ledges or basically scrambling up ramps. We were moving together but protection didn't seem to good either.
with Zack
Led pitches 1, 2 and 5 (moving together). Horrible walk-in and somewhat disappointing; flashes of brilliance, the odd excellent move but then replaced by more of the same walking across easy ledges or basically scrambling up ramps. We were moving together but protection didn't seem to good either.
with Zack
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
sam_owen41 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 -
Jamie Skelton 23 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Si did first pitch, I did the rest, would have been better as a 3-4 pitch route not bad though.
with Simon Rhys Jones
Si did first pitch, I did the rest, would have been better as a 3-4 pitch route not bad though.
with Simon Rhys Jones
Karlos 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Perfect conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, preceeded by at least a week of dry weather, and not a soul about. Good route, clean rock and an expansive view. Only problem was that is wasn't long enough. Easy approach if traversing in left from the main path. Steepish grass slopes, but not over grown this early in the season. We decided to extend the day by heading continuing up after topping out - tough work, steep heather clad slopes went on and on! Loads of bilberry bushes but no fruit this early.
Perfect conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, preceeded by at least a week of dry weather, and not a soul about. Good route, clean rock and an expansive view. Only problem was that is wasn't long enough. Easy approach if traversing in left from the main path. Steepish grass slopes, but not over grown this early in the season. We decided to extend the day by heading continuing up after topping out - tough work, steep heather clad slopes went on and on! Loads of bilberry bushes but no fruit this early.
Harriet Stewart 18 Apr, 2015 2nd
with Karlos
with Karlos
dobby 200 22 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead P2 and 3. Pitch 4 was awesome!
with Evan
I lead P2 and 3. Pitch 4 was awesome!
with Evan
Si ??, 2015 -
Mike Bayley ??, 2015 -
Mike Bayley ??, 2015 -
mjeffery 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 -
sjbrook 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Forest pitch didn't feel quite in line with guide book but rest was good. Could be done 1+2, 3+4, 5+6. We did 1, 2+3, 4+5, 6 cos we like rope drag!
with Dave Richards, PMC
Forest pitch didn't feel quite in line with guide book but rest was good. Could be done 1+2, 3+4, 5+6. We did 1, 2+3, 4+5, 6 cos we like rope drag!
with Dave Richards, PMC
Dave Richards 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Walk in was hard work (from Solihull MC hut), route was good.
with sjbrook
Walk in was hard work (from Solihull MC hut), route was good.
with sjbrook
Pinguville 12 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S 30 min walk in straight up through rh forest. Run p1+2 together, bit dirty and balancy moves. P3+4 nice long exposed traverse steady and good gear, nice seat belay under the arête. P5 exposed around and up the arête. P6 up blocks to the top. Nice climbing that gets better, big exposure and nice views. Descent is fine
30 min walk in straight up through rh forest. Run p1+2 together, bit dirty and balancy moves. P3+4 nice long exposed traverse steady and good gear, nice seat belay under the arête. P5 exposed around and up the arête. P6 up blocks to the top. Nice climbing that gets better, big exposure and nice views. Descent is fine
George_Surf 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S 30 min walk in straight up through rh forest. Run p1+2 together, bit dirty and balancy moves. P3+4 nice long exposed traverse steady and good gear, nice seat belay under the arête. P5 exposed around and up the arête. P6 up blocks to the top. Nice climbing that gets better, big exposure and nice views. Descent is fine.
30 min walk in straight up through rh forest. Run p1+2 together, bit dirty and balancy moves. P3+4 nice long exposed traverse steady and good gear, nice seat belay under the arête. P5 exposed around and up the arête. P6 up blocks to the top. Nice climbing that gets better, big exposure and nice views. Descent is fine.
MD 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Jo led p1 and p2 together. I led p3 and p5. It's possible to run p3 and p4 together.
Jo led p1 and p2 together. I led p3 and p5. It's possible to run p3 and p4 together.
Happy Wanderer 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd rpt
with MD
with MD
LP 26 Aug, 2014 - Water pooling behind wires in cracks, water running down sleeves, howling winds, crying girlfriends- a proper day out on a lovely little route.
Water pooling behind wires in cracks, water running down sleeves, howling winds, crying girlfriends- a proper day out on a lovely little route.
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Gib lip ?Aug, 2014 -
with LP
with LP
dbm 24 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2, 4, 6
with KDolder
Lead P2, 4, 6
with KDolder
Hidden 24 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
cjohn62 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with paul
with paul
carl_123 18 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
magsb 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Enjoyed once we found the start. Must say the the approach was harder than the climb, although we did take the steepest possible!
with Marion
Enjoyed once we found the start. Must say the the approach was harder than the climb, although we did take the steepest possible!
with Marion
Neil Watson 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Nice route. Agree with last comment about getting to the crag. The Rockfax guide is reasonably good. Would add that once half way between the two wood plantations head up the small scree patch.
Nice route. Agree with last comment about getting to the crag. The Rockfax guide is reasonably good. Would add that once half way between the two wood plantations head up the small scree patch.
seanprendiville 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Tessa
with Tessa
suds_01 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Stu Bracher
with Stu Bracher
Jonny Harrison 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jordan jones
with Jordan jones
jon59 5 Jun, 2014 Lead The route was not the best I've done for a classic rock route. The approach description is not great it should read. Once you have crossed the stile head up the hill walking away from the crag. When you get about level with top of the two wood blocks on the left look for the faint path marked with a rock cairn, traverse under the crag until in-between the two wood blocks. Head up hill in the gully (its steep) when you reach the crag head right until you see a large boulder, a faint track should lead up left to the foot of the climb.
The route was not the best I've done for a classic rock route. The approach description is not great it should read. Once you have crossed the stile head up the hill walking away from the crag. When you get about level with top of the two wood blocks on the left look for the faint path marked with a rock cairn, traverse under the crag until in-between the two wood blocks. Head up hill in the gully (its steep) when you reach the crag head right until you see a large boulder, a faint track should lead up left to the foot of the climb.
Steveb27 5 May, 2014 Solo O/S A worthwhile route - it's only taken me 20 odd years to get round to climbing it!!:-)
A worthwhile route - it's only taken me 20 odd years to get round to climbing it!!:-)
matt.woodfield 23 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
nj.harris ??, 2014 -
peakcaver ??, 2014 -
Keiran O'Mahony 11 Oct, 2013 Lead dnf
with Cynon
with Cynon
Cynon ?Oct, 2013 AltLd dnf
with keiran2012
with keiran2012
Hidden 18 Aug, 2013 2nd
Bruce Kerr 18 Jul, 2013 Lead
with Jenny Kerr
with Jenny Kerr
HIGHTOWER 13 Jul, 2013 2nd What a pile of rubbish!
with Gav Sayer, Kirky
What a pile of rubbish!
with Gav Sayer, Kirky
Paul Hy 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dave S, Umer
with Dave S, Umer
tobyk 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Emma Knights
with Emma Knights
Hidden 25 May, 2013 AltLd
chrisdajenk 6 May, 2013 2nd Cracking little route
with Jamie, idioa
Cracking little route
with Jamie, idioa
jamieevans ?May, 2013 Lead
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd
TheAndyBarker ??, 2013 -
chris ginge ??, 2013 Lead
Richard Kinsman ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Joepenfold 21 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2012 -
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 Lead rpt
net 15 Jul, 2012 2nd
with GPN
with GPN
Peter Metcalfe 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd
GPN 15 Jul, 2012 Lead
with net
with net
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Tarquin 25 May, 2012 -
with Sarah
with Sarah
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Gary A S 18 Mar, 2012 AltLd dnf Super damp and super grim. Bailed on second pitch.
with d_b
Super damp and super grim. Bailed on second pitch.
with d_b
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??, 2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??, 2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??, 2012 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 Lead
lithos 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd In a 3 hour dry spell during the monsoon that was this w/e. P1 started nice went really horrid on filth. All the rest fine and mostly dry. Fun traverse and arete pitch. Started to rain as coiling rope at top :-)
In a 3 hour dry spell during the monsoon that was this w/e. P1 started nice went really horrid on filth. All the rest fine and mostly dry. Fun traverse and arete pitch. Started to rain as coiling rope at top :-)
jossjones 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
blondie 24 Apr, 2011 2nd Climbed with Jules and Mox.
Climbed with Jules and Mox.
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Mar, 2011 2nd
Hexman 23 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S First pitch very dirty and overgrown. Rest was enjoyable.
First pitch very dirty and overgrown. Rest was enjoyable.
Jim Walton ??, 2011 -
centurion05 ??, 2011 -
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2011 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2011 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2011 -
sgl0jd ??, 2011 -
markhammonds 22 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Lovely day, with only us on the cliff. Ran 1st 2 pitches together without realising. Khalid/Em got off-route on pitch 4, which helped us stay on track (!). Enjoyable climbing and not too hard. If only the arete (pitch 5) was longer...
with Amelia Lloyd
Lovely day, with only us on the cliff. Ran 1st 2 pitches together without realising. Khalid/Em got off-route on pitch 4, which helped us stay on track (!). Enjoyable climbing and not too hard. If only the arete (pitch 5) was longer...
with Amelia Lloyd
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 2nd
Rob Exile Ward 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Seemed a bit overrated and over graded, tbh. Only one other party on the entire crag though - amazing, given the weather and the number of classic climbs.
with Sam Ward
Seemed a bit overrated and over graded, tbh. Only one other party on the entire crag though - amazing, given the weather and the number of classic climbs.
with Sam Ward
TGreen 21 May, 2010 AltLd rpt
Rosie Henstock 21 May, 2010 AltLd rpt
with TGreen
with TGreen
sonaf 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd
with Chopper
with Chopper
asmith37 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett ??, 2010 AltLd
with Kris Scheinkonig
with Kris Scheinkonig
petegruf 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S An hour walk in; would have been easier to walk straight up from the track; that's how we came back. Fun route in a beautiful setting at the head of a quiet valley
with iona p
An hour walk in; would have been easier to walk straight up from the track; that's how we came back. Fun route in a beautiful setting at the head of a quiet valley
with iona p
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 2nd
Goody 20 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Suzie Hughes
with Suzie Hughes
Hidden 15 Sep, 2009 Lead
Hidden 8 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Aug, 2009 2nd
Skullfire 12 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Trevor Jones
with Trevor Jones
Hidden 28 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf
Hidden 28 Jun, 2009 2nd dnf
seb m-c 23 Jun, 2009 AltLd Lead fouth and sixth pitch. Harsh walk in Ticks all over
with Martin Callaghan
Lead fouth and sixth pitch. Harsh walk in Ticks all over
with Martin Callaghan
Hidden 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Tim W 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S In the rain in big boots
In the rain in big boots
Happy Wanderer 24 May, 2009 AltLd rpt
with Ken T
with Ken T
berry ?May, 2009 -
with simon
with simon
samwisethebrave2 26 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Robbie
with Robbie
Hidden 26 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
robbie9m 26 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
jimorothy 8 Apr, 2009 AltLd Fairly easy, nice traverse on Tea ledges (keep going left to pass under overhung arete - instinct is to climb diagonally left/upwards to the skylight). Awful walk in was desperate! Ignore upper traverse path, traverse with the fence above plantation and hike directly up to foot of climb. Take a trowel if doing any other routes.
with Rachel Crolla
Fairly easy, nice traverse on Tea ledges (keep going left to pass under overhung arete - instinct is to climb diagonally left/upwards to the skylight). Awful walk in was desperate! Ignore upper traverse path, traverse with the fence above plantation and hike directly up to foot of climb. Take a trowel if doing any other routes.
with Rachel Crolla
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden 12 Nov, 2008 2nd O/S
donkster 12 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
with DaveNW
with DaveNW
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Dave Wearing 26 Jul, 2008 AltLd
with Phil Tucker.
with Phil Tucker.
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 1 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2007 -
psychicbread 8 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S First two pitches and ab off tree
with Alex
First two pitches and ab off tree
with Alex
BALD EAGLE 9 Jun, 2007 AltLd
with Christian Darr
with Christian Darr
mike_hough_uk 2 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S Led P1,3
Led P1,3
chri55ie 2 Jun, 2007 AltLd
auld al ?May, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
TGreen 15 Apr, 2007 Solo dnf Tied into Rosie's rope halfway along the 4th pitch
Tied into Rosie's rope halfway along the 4th pitch
Rosie Henstock 15 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
edmitchell ?Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with kai ren
with kai ren
Hidden 20 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
timmy-ts ??, 2007 -
Chris Harding 1 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S First multi pitch not difficult and plenty of gear placements the traverse is most exciting section with a wide bridge over a long drop.
with Dave Stevenson
First multi pitch not difficult and plenty of gear placements the traverse is most exciting section with a wide bridge over a long drop.
with Dave Stevenson
TGreen 28 Jul, 2006 Lead rpt
with Sarah G
with Sarah G
Allan Young 8 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Ronnie Jones, Owen Evans
with Ronnie Jones, Owen Evans
Caralynh 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Horrible walk in (who on earth can do it in 30 mins as per Classic Rock?) was made up for by lovely views, and red kites circling the belay ledges on the thermals. Led pitches 1 and 2 (as one pitch) and 4 and 5.
with Iain Simpson
Horrible walk in (who on earth can do it in 30 mins as per Classic Rock?) was made up for by lovely views, and red kites circling the belay ledges on the thermals. Led pitches 1 and 2 (as one pitch) and 4 and 5.
with Iain Simpson
climbingxcat 7 May, 2006 2nd O/S
with Brian
with Brian
Hidden ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Misha 21 Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S Done on the club Burns Night weekend when it was still held at the hut (this was the first one I went to and the first time I had been to the hut). Phil S / Adrian led all but the last pitch, which Phil S let me lead. The route was a bit wet but I don't recall it being particularly cold despite it being January. It did take a long time though as we were climbing in a three and Ken and Jo were in front of us.
with Adrian, Phil S
Done on the club Burns Night weekend when it was still held at the hut (this was the first one I went to and the first time I had been to the hut). Phil S / Adrian led all but the last pitch, which Phil S let me lead. The route was a bit wet but I don't recall it being particularly cold despite it being January. It did take a long time though as we were climbing in a three and Ken and Jo were in front of us.
with Adrian, Phil S
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2005 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 2005 2nd
Hidden ?Feb, 2005 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 2005 -
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden 14 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
TrevorCruse 6 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S Led 3rd and 4th pitches of six, as one pitch
with Roger
Led 3rd and 4th pitches of six, as one pitch
with Roger
Ann S ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
with Bill Harrison
with Bill Harrison
TGreen 14 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Martin G
with Martin G
Hidden 2 Jun, 2002 AltLd
Howard J 20 Apr, 2002 Lead O/S
with Jo Edwards
with Jo Edwards
caradoc 23 Mar, 2002 AltLd A bit of a social.
with RobA
A bit of a social.
with RobA
Mark Collins ??, 2002 AltLd
with Neil Henson
with Neil Henson
Nick Haine 13 Oct, 2001 Lead
with Jason
with Jason
Mark Davies PK ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Laura
with Laura
John Roe 23 Sep, 2000 AltLd
with Nige Hughes
with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?Sep, 2000 AltLd
with John Roe
with John Roe
Simon Caldwell 15 Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Carmen, Peter, Gordon
with Carmen, Peter, Gordon
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Darragh ?Aug, 1999 -
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden ?Jul, 1999 2nd
haydng ??, 1999 -
roncaves 8 Aug, 1998 Solo
with Gavin Williams
with Gavin Williams
IanGilbertJones 31 Jan, 1998 Lead O/S
pauldrew ??, 1998 AltLd Some time late nineties.
Some time late nineties.
mike smash ??, 1997 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 31 Aug, 1996 Solo
Iain Brown 22 Jun, 1996 -
with Matthew
with Matthew
Brian Rodgers ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Dave Oldacres
with Dave Oldacres
Dave Toseland ??, 1996 AltLd
with Parry, Huw
with Parry, Huw
Hidden 23 Sep, 1995 AltLd
alan moore ??, 1995 - Wet day in a magical place.
Wet day in a magical place.
jim_randell 2 May, 1994 AltLd O/S
with DR, WW
with DR, WW
stokienomad 30 Apr, 1994 -
Rog Wilko ?Sep, 1993 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
with Debbie Wilkinson
roncaves 1 Aug, 1993 Lead
with John Barnard
with John Barnard
Okecroak 15 Mar, 1993 AltLd Geology Field Trip
with R. Naylor
Geology Field Trip
with R. Naylor
Pete Nugent 27 Jun, 1992 Solo
roncaves 29 Feb, 1992 AltLd
with John Foster
with John Foster
babymoac 23 Feb, 1992 Lead
with Davy L
with Davy L
Hidden ??, 1992 AltLd
GuyC 14 Jun, 1991 AltLd O/S With Craig Tupper?
with Clare
With Craig Tupper?
with Clare
Hidden ??, 1991 -
99bolivar ??, 1990 2nd
rogerskews 8 Apr, 1989 AltLd
with Martin Coward
with Martin Coward
Nick Biven ??, 1987 -
Nigel Bond 18 May, 1986 Lead
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden ?Oct, 1984 AltLd
nigehughes ?Oct, 1983 AltLd
with Steve Caygill
with Steve Caygill
steveb2006 28 Mar, 1982 AltLd
with Mervyn Dudley
with Mervyn Dudley
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1980 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jun, 1979 Lead
uphillnow ??, 1979 Solo with Alan Bennett. Thought it a bag of ....
with Alan Bennett. Thought it a bag of ....
Bob M ??, 1978 -
with Robert Read
with Robert Read
Hidden ??, 1976 -
Darron ??, 1975 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1974 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 1972 Lead
tapley 4 Apr, 1972 -
zukator ??, 1970 -
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Voting
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Votes cast 49
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Not Set
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Repeated
DNF
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Not Set