alexm198 24/Feb AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Late start after getting the sleeper train into Aviemore, started the route just before 12pm. Climbed in 6 pitches, of which I led 1 (straightforward mixed ground to below subterranean crack), 2 (undignified thrutching up the outside of the subterranean crack, which was choked with snow) and 5 (wonderful, atmospheric gully-bashing). Murray, being an absolute madman, opted for the heinous direct finish. Felt like the absolute wits end -- overhanging tech 7 moves with undercut feet and useless snow. Topped out around 6pm in the fading light and trudged over for a cosy night in the Hutchison.

murray 24/Feb AltLd O/S

Really good route. The second pitch is pretty dry but otherwise it's in good condition at the moment. The subterranean crack is completely choked with snow, so alex lead up round the outside which was strenuous! At the top of the atmospheric upper gully I took the overhanging pegged groove exit. Despite having 4 pegs in 5m this was so desperate. All the feet are mega undercut and i was fighting 45m of rope drag all the way. Had a will kernick-style foot slip and cut loose onto a single axe at one point! The hooks are all bomber luckily.. Long walk over to the hutchison bothy afterwards where we were met by a roaring fire- lovely.

graeme gatherer 21/Feb -

In really good condition- solid snow throughout with some ice and at times, ‘concrete’ turf. Did the layback crack instead of the subterranean crack and the cornice wasn’t viable. As others have said the final pitch was safe but desperate!!!

with Steve Elliot
Tom Livingstone 09/Feb Solo O/S

Some variations to the right in the middle third

with Ben Silvestre
DaveThexton 01/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Dave Keogh, Richard Kendrick
Richard Kendrick 01/Mar/17 AltLd
with Dave Thexton, davkeo
davkeo 01/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Big mountain day. In 5 pitches. I did 1 (70m) & 5. Plenty of unconsolidated snow which was a hinderance and made things insecure and slow. P1 was not easy in the conditions & p2 had a pretty tricky delicate step. P5 was more of a sting than expected. Steep loose/collapsing snow made the normal finish impossible to get to so went up via the pegged overhanging grove. It was dark by now and I had a real fight to the top. Hard and pumpy and the 3 of us felt about tech 7 for that section. Slight nav. Error had us heading SW for about 30mins before we corrected our selfs. Back at van just b4 midnight 16hrs after we left.

jonnie3430 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Didn't finish up the steep snow on right, or the overhanging icy corner, but traversed further left to the next corner, which was a short struggle, but had gear, which was lacking. Not entirely sure if it is tech 5, on a few of the pitches in moderately thin ice conditions. Subterranean crack on 2 nd pitch was great fun, so was getting the bags stuck hauling them up the outside....

with mike
Pete Graham 09/Jan/16 -

Really buried. More like manual labour than climbing at times. Took a good 2 hour to excavate the top groove. Good fun though and great belay scenes.

with Howard Lawledge, Malcolm Scott, Chris Barr
malx 09/Jan/16 -
Hidden 06/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
French Erick 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

about the whitest line. p2 was bare rock until the turf and so was last 5m (at tech 7) the last ice pitch was really thin.

with Andy Sharpe
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Coops
Adam Booth 27/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Buried. Great first couple of pitches but bailed to prevent an epic!

with Roger McMorrow, Ben Warrick
alasdair19 ??/2013 -
James Smith 30/Jan/12 AltLd

top 2 pitches a steep powder swimming, scary. topped out in the dark after a long battle with the top crux, no way V,5 in this condition...a good adventure nonetheless though! the gully next to us avalanched when we were halfway up!

with sam
sgl 28/Jan/12 AltLd
with Aleksander
Edvin m 28/Jan/12 AltLd
Martin Cooper 29/Jan/11 AltLd

Finished up short overhung corner on L at top. Straight up looked dubious quality but I see now that it had been climbed day before. Lead intro pitch, slabby pitch after steep wall and the final sting.

with Nick
Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd
simondunf 22/Jan/11 AltLd

had to finish by wall on left due to cornice - gave an awesome steep finish

with james, caspar
adw07 07/Jan/11 AltLd dnf

N.B. From the peg belay after the 2nd pitch the route traverses right, not straight up the crack. Both fell off trying this, then was too late once we realised the proper way...

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 22/Dec/09 Lead
mulletcocktail2000 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S

a beast of a classic in every way with good interesting climbing throughout, only a couple of easier pitches just after half way and the crux near the top.

with henning
hwackerhage 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S

with Ryan Slater
Mark Stevenson 10/Feb/03 AltLd dog
with Helen Rennard
charlesmfrench 13/Jan/01 AltLd O/S

2,L,2,L,2,L,L,L. Epic! finished at midnight by tunneling through a vast cornice. But worth the effort.

with Mark Vandome
Grezza ?/Feb/97 Lead
Ollie Clem 23/Dec/95 AltLd

Bloody epic day! Done very lean; unconsolidated snow on the slab pitches and the lower gully (nearly avalached out), no ice on the gully step and James took a whipper trying to climb the impossible overhanging gully head....he didn't see the nice traverse out right!

pingora 17/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
pauldrew ??/1994 AltLd
with Dave Barlow
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
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