Rockfax Description
3 pitches. This is the waterfall straight below Vemork. The main attraction is the second pitch which is a free-hanging 'cigar'. Sometimes there are two pillars on this pitch. Stretch the second pitch as it is often difficult to find a sheltered belay for the last pitch which is also very long. A possible variation exit to the left is indicated on the topo. © Rockfax

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UserDateNotes
ian bryant 23 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: found it hard to avoid the ice debris coming down from the leader on this one.
βeta?
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βeta: found it hard to avoid the ice debris coming down from the leader on this one.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
KrishuX 23 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
the.proud.man 21 Feb, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
netboy 16 Feb, 2018 2nd Climbed as a three with Lars leading.
with PaulC, Lars
Climbed as a three with Lars leading.
with PaulC, Lars
high peak 1 ?Feb, 2018 -
Hidden 14 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
tim20 ??, 2018 -
davkeo 7 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S In 2 pitches. Both 45m ish. Ran p1&2 together. Very wet and got a real soaking on the pillar which was sustained and hard today. Hardest route on this trip under these conditions. Placed screws pretty low on pillar and moved fast thru it. Excellent.
In 2 pitches. Both 45m ish. Ran p1&2 together. Very wet and got a real soaking on the pillar which was sustained and hard today. Hardest route on this trip under these conditions. Placed screws pretty low on pillar and moved fast thru it. Excellent.
Stuart Hurworth 28 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P1 & 3, the pillar was very wet with an obvious melt chute in the middle. Very stepped out and lots of loose bits where it has been hacked/melted. Hard but fun, although was like climbing a vertical ladder. Hooked all the way but had a scare when one axe came flying out as I pulled up - kept it together though. Top pitch has hollow ice, but easy climbing.
with Steve Graham
Lead P1 & 3, the pillar was very wet with an obvious melt chute in the middle. Very stepped out and lots of loose bits where it has been hacked/melted. Hard but fun, although was like climbing a vertical ladder. Hooked all the way but had a scare when one axe came flying out as I pulled up - kept it together though. Top pitch has hollow ice, but easy climbing.
with Steve Graham
Hidden 28 Feb, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25 Feb, 2015 Lead dnf
Hidden 25 Feb, 2015 2nd dnf
Hidden 17 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
PTG ?Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Narrow and steep, but up beaten pillar. Although a nice route on historical ground.
Narrow and steep, but up beaten pillar. Although a nice route on historical ground.
Richard Kendrick ?Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead the crux second pitch
with Stanley
Lead the crux second pitch
with Stanley
Big Lee 25 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead the second pitch up the steep sections. Main column was hooked-out so felt very steady.
with annak
Lead the second pitch up the steep sections. Main column was hooked-out so felt very steady.
with annak
GarethSL 25 Jan, 2015 Lead dnf
with Eugene
with Eugene
annak 25 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Pete_Frost 22 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Led the pillar on P2 and abseiled off at the cave once the angle eased. Great pitch with natural hooks - relaxed and enjoyable.
Led the pillar on P2 and abseiled off at the cave once the angle eased. Great pitch with natural hooks - relaxed and enjoyable.
ecromwell 11 Jan, 2015 Lead Pinkpointed crux pitch using Alex's screws. Bloody scary committing to the climb but when I was on it felt sustained but fine, wish I had led it without his screws!
with Alison Cromwell
Pinkpointed crux pitch using Alex's screws. Bloody scary committing to the climb but when I was on it felt sustained but fine, wish I had led it without his screws!
with Alison Cromwell
Hidden 10 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
alexm198 10 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S First WI5! In 3 pitches. Led P2, crux pillar. Ice wasn't too solid, each placement required considerable excavation. Got a good 'a cheval' rest in a groove in the pillar at 1/3 height. Took a microwave sized block of ice to the chest while trying to get good sticks and bloodied my chin knocking down more ice further up. Gnarly!
with sink14
First WI5! In 3 pitches. Led P2, crux pillar. Ice wasn't too solid, each placement required considerable excavation. Got a good 'a cheval' rest in a groove in the pillar at 1/3 height. Took a microwave sized block of ice to the chest while trying to get good sticks and bloodied my chin knocking down more ice further up. Gnarly!
with sink14
HP9 ?Jan, 2015 2nd
with Paddy cave
with Paddy cave
Hidden ?Jan, 2015 Lead dnf
andy dunn 2 Mar, 2014 2nd dnf Abandoned climb after the first pitch. Quite why J decided to climb what I described as a chossy waterfall was beyond me. Was dripping quite a bit...
with J
Abandoned climb after the first pitch. Quite why J decided to climb what I described as a chossy waterfall was beyond me. Was dripping quite a bit...
with J
Hidden 22 Feb, 2014 AltLd
Happy Wanderer 22 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Went to do Bakveien but fancied this one instead. Awesome route though 1st pitch unfirm and shortened by deep snow and upper section very slushy, with P2 very steep pillar to give the WI5 this time round. Led P1 and P3, Piers Led scary P2. Fab route somewhat ruined by hideously rude Italians - admirably strong climbers but poor manners and no patience as they climber over our ropes and wrapped their ropes over everyone else at the 2nd belay. Despicably bad manners.
with Emma Fulton, Piers Fulton
Went to do Bakveien but fancied this one instead. Awesome route though 1st pitch unfirm and shortened by deep snow and upper section very slushy, with P2 very steep pillar to give the WI5 this time round. Led P1 and P3, Piers Led scary P2. Fab route somewhat ruined by hideously rude Italians - admirably strong climbers but poor manners and no patience as they climber over our ropes and wrapped their ropes over everyone else at the 2nd belay. Despicably bad manners.
with Emma Fulton, Piers Fulton
Hidden 22 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
Pay Attention 21 Feb, 2014 Lead
with Stewart Young
with Stewart Young
Pay Attention 17 Feb, 2014 Lead dnf Today there was a pair of Italian climbers, middle aged men, in the Upper Gorge. It's said they did Lipton recently. Today in their red jackets they overtook the various teams that were already on Saboterfossen and caused a bit of irritation when they abseiled back down through the ropes. Next was Nye Vemorkfoss. The first guy led up quickly from the base, directly up to the belay at the end of the hard pitch. He avoided taking the usual route to a ledge with a bolt - where I had already taken stance. I did ask in English if he minded us waiting while he did the route we had already started but it didn't get a response. So he abseiled down and I set off. Before I reached the left side of the pillar Italian #2 had got in ahead going up the same way. I had the choice of climbing directly behind him, or waiting under a dripping chandelier until he'd finished. Unfortunately he did not understand the various expressions in various languages that I tried to communicate. And I don't have a command of bad Italian. Anyway forgive and forget is my motto. It's not a problem. One thousand krone to anyone who brings me both their heads in a bag.
with Stewart Young
Today there was a pair of Italian climbers, middle aged men, in the Upper Gorge. It's said they did Lipton recently. Today in their red jackets they overtook the various teams that were already on Saboterfossen and caused a bit of irritation when they abseiled back down through the ropes. Next was Nye Vemorkfoss. The first guy led up quickly from the base, directly up to the belay at the end of the hard pitch. He avoided taking the usual route to a ledge with a bolt - where I had already taken stance. I did ask in English if he minded us waiting while he did the route we had already started but it didn't get a response. So he abseiled down and I set off. Before I reached the left side of the pillar Italian #2 had got in ahead going up the same way. I had the choice of climbing directly behind him, or waiting under a dripping chandelier until he'd finished. Unfortunately he did not understand the various expressions in various languages that I tried to communicate. And I don't have a command of bad Italian. Anyway forgive and forget is my motto. It's not a problem. One thousand krone to anyone who brings me both their heads in a bag.
with Stewart Young
James Thacker 17 Feb, 2014 -
with Kris Hill
with Kris Hill
danJBA 22 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
chris smith 22 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 21 Jan, 2014 AltLd Great fun
with Dave Amoss
Great fun
with Dave Amoss
Matt Barnes 20 Jan, 2014 AltLd rpt
with John V
with John V
mileshill540 ??, 2014 AltLd
neilmclean 4 Feb, 2013 -
BorisVBlade 22 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2, really fun.
with Arnaud Sors
Lead pitch 2, really fun.
with Arnaud Sors
Adam Booth 9 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S So hooked, was a joke! Great fun.
So hooked, was a joke! Great fun.
edmitchell 9 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Steve Hillier 9 Feb, 2012 AltLd rpt
robertmichaellovell 5 Feb, 2012 Lead
with Lawrence
with Lawrence
wence 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
Dale ?Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S I lead the first and last pitch. Got a bit gripped on 1st pitch had to have a talking with my self got the heart going great fun. The hanging cigar is amazing the hooks wow the hooks. Best ice route I've ever done so far smiling all the way
with Tim
I lead the first and last pitch. Got a bit gripped on 1st pitch had to have a talking with my self got the heart going great fun. The hanging cigar is amazing the hooks wow the hooks. Best ice route I've ever done so far smiling all the way
with Tim
HIGHTOWER 18 Jan, 2012 2nd Only first pitch, about WI3, at the end of the day and abbed off.
with Mark Falcus, Martin (Leeming)
Only first pitch, about WI3, at the end of the day and abbed off.
with Mark Falcus, Martin (Leeming)
Hidden ?Jan, 2012 AltLd
elProxy 4 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Lead all 3 pitches. Nice route, one of the few with still tons of blue ice at that time.
with Jean Raynard
Lead all 3 pitches. Nice route, one of the few with still tons of blue ice at that time.
with Jean Raynard
Tim Bateman 26 Feb, 2011 Lead Well formed and in good condition. All the old metalwork has now been cleared from the bottom pitch so Bakvein now looks a bit different
with George Bird
Well formed and in good condition. All the old metalwork has now been cleared from the bottom pitch so Bakvein now looks a bit different
with George Bird
Hidden 24 Feb, 2011 2nd
Dibdawg 20 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S 1st n' 3rd pitches with Ian on the crux pitch!
1st n' 3rd pitches with Ian on the crux pitch!
smudge 16 Feb, 2011 AltLd
with Rob
with Rob
robertmichaellovell 13 Feb, 2011 AltLd
with tomdude
with tomdude
tomdude 13 Feb, 2011 AltLd
John sealey 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd
The Bad Cough 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Mr Wild 1 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S Main Pitch, belay bottom left of pillar to maximise the fun
with George
Main Pitch, belay bottom left of pillar to maximise the fun
with George
Hidden 31 Jan, 2011 -
simonward 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
DundeeDave 24 Jan, 2011 2nd dog
with Bill White, ewan.gourlay
with Bill White, ewan.gourlay
alan1234 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Paul Hastwell ?Mar, 2010 -
Henrik 23 Feb, 2010 2nd
with Josef + Joakim
with Josef + Joakim
Hidden 21 Feb, 2010 AltLd dog
Graeme Barr 15 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with Ben Smith
with Ben Smith
Hidden 12 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
juhah 12 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with tuukka
with tuukka
AdrianP 11 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Matti L.
with Matti L.
Bex_M 9 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Barra
with Barra
John Roe 24 Jan, 2010 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
with Joey Durkin
Matt Bennett 21 Jan, 2010 Solo dnf soloed first pitch to aid a rescue
soloed first pitch to aid a rescue
richardlong78 ?Jan, 2010 AltLd
with Dave Gleave
with Dave Gleave
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd
Alexandre Buisse ?Dec, 2009 -
graniterocks 1 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Cecilie Gr?nhaug
with Cecilie Gr?nhaug
steveb2006 28 Jan, 2009 Lead
DanielJ 15 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
with anders
with anders
Jamie Degel ?Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
with volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)
with volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)
bengt ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ??, 2009 -
Mr Spoons 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd Last day in Rjukan, excellent route and I got the hard pitch.
with Ollie
Last day in Rjukan, excellent route and I got the hard pitch.
with Ollie
orb 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Simon Fairman
with Simon Fairman
lithos 8 Mar, 2008 Lead All 3 pitches with steve, bit wet but not very steep and more like 4
with Steve Boxall
All 3 pitches with steve, bit wet but not very steep and more like 4
with Steve Boxall
MoWalker3 6 Mar, 2008 -
Neilm18 1 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with michael mcghie
with michael mcghie
s kennedy 27 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
Hidden 27 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
michael83 27 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Neil Mosgrove
with Neil Mosgrove
Will Homoky 7 Feb, 2008 AltLd RP Lead P1. Finished P2 after we bailed in previous year.
with Tom Hindson
Lead P1. Finished P2 after we bailed in previous year.
with Tom Hindson
uphillnow 7 Feb, 2008 AltLd
Drapes ?Feb, 2008 2nd
with Rosie Goolden
with Rosie Goolden
Simon Palmer ?Feb, 2008 Lead dog
John Roe 30 Jan, 2008 Lead Led all three pitches
with Marcus Littler
Led all three pitches
with Marcus Littler
centurion05 ?Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
davidgent ?Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and 3.
with Kilian
Led pitch 1 and 3.
with Kilian
andysroom ?Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S Led P2 (WI5)
Led P2 (WI5)
Rob Pitt ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden 9 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
lithos 9 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S led 1st (solo!) an 3rd pitch - bit Scotish. Steep middle, wet pitch cruised by tony,peg in the cave
with TonyM
led 1st (solo!) an 3rd pitch - bit Scotish. Steep middle, wet pitch cruised by tony,peg in the cave
with TonyM
Hidden 24 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 10 Feb, 2007 AltLd Climbed with Neal Adams as a 3, ropes got frozen to ice and all manners of faff ensued!
Climbed with Neal Adams as a 3, ropes got frozen to ice and all manners of faff ensued!
andyinglis 10 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S Lead P2, excellent route, hardest ice route on the trip. Pity about ropes freezing into the ice!
with Alasdair Fulton, neil adams
Lead P2, excellent route, hardest ice route on the trip. Pity about ropes freezing into the ice!
with Alasdair Fulton, neil adams
Neil Adams 10 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Andy I & Ally F
with Andy I & Ally F
Ramon Marin 23 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Ben Gilbert
with Ben Gilbert
charlesmfrench 5 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S 2,L,2,L.
with Ole Henning
2,L,2,L.
with Ole Henning
Smelly Fox 24 Feb, 2006 Lead O/S Lead pitches 1 and 2.
with Matt Croll
Lead pitches 1 and 2.
with Matt Croll
French Erick 1 Feb, 2006 AltLd dog Spent too much time placing screws. I had to weigh one down.
with Jim Hall
Spent too much time placing screws. I had to weigh one down.
with Jim Hall
Hidden ?Feb, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 29 Jan, 2005 -
with NickH
with NickH
plain kitten ??, 2000 Lead
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Voting
High WI-5+
Mid WI-5+
Low WI-5+
High WI-5
Mid WI-5
Low WI-5
High WI-4+
Mid WI-4+
Low WI-4+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set