Rockfax Description
One of Dartmoor's finest. A gritstonesque climb that packs in some athletic and technical moves. Start on a flat-topped block below the left end of the huge overhang in the centre of the main face. Pull up directly into the corner, left of the overhang, and place some good gear before swinging out to the arete on a horizontal break just above the lip of the overhang. Gain a flake on the face around the arete and make a couple of tricky moves to leave it and enter the base of a good crack. Follow the crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
50'. Surmounting the big roof at half height, using obvious hanging flake on the left end of the overhang. Pull round the flake (good photo opportunity) and reach a second flake on the exposed face. Crank up on this flake to gain a crimp allowing you to pull into a vertical crack. Follow this to near the top where balanced moves allow you to gain the finishing jug out to the right.

Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 23/Apr/1976

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, South Devon & Dartmoor First Ascents in 1976.

Hidden 28/Oct/17 Lead G/U
Hidden 28/Sep/17 Lead dnf
Dale Turrell 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S

First E2 lead! Great fun. Bit of a panic when I dropped my nuts on the flake, but Tom managed to throw them back up to me! Horrendous rope drag on the 2nd half made the direct/slopey top out pretty hard/scary!

with Tom M
JoeCoxson 23/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Gutted, gave it two good goes but ran out of puff for a third. Took a lob from the crimp above the flakes, sawing most of the way through my leg with the rope in the process.

kyaizawa 28/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Awesome route and well worth the wait to do. Misread the sequence so blew the onsight and pumped myself out for the second attempt. Rested properly and went again, found the crimp for the move around the arete and committed on the layback move. Good to get this done after years on the wishlist!!

felixwilkins 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Sam O'Rourke 17/Aug/17 2nd dog
Matt Amos 17/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead G/U
J.A.Thomson 23/Apr/17 Lead dog

Found it easy getting to the flack then got pump trying to find the hold to get of the flack, next time ill do it cleen

with Bob
dbrooks 09/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Will
LDJ 09/Apr/17 Lead
with Lou
Will Mortimer 09/Apr/17 Lead dog

Had to take a rest on the move after the flake. Awesome line!

with Derwood
Rory Bascombe 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Dad, Evie
timreynolds 25/May/16 Lead

One rest

Sam Willis 24/Apr/16 TR dog
steve-grigg 23/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Just not strong enough at the moment, will have to give it another go some time!

with Barney
DredStripe 17/Apr/16 Lead G/U

leader backed off, used his gear, up to OH.

with Cusco
phil456 09/Dec/15 TR dnf
Davros the Psyched 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dbrooks 26/May/15 Lead G/U

2nd attempt, made it to the flake but fell just beneath the crack first time round... found the top out a bit scary, think I made it harder than it needed to be! great route, probably the best I've done on Dartmoor

with John
John Tanner 26/May/15 Lead dnf

Derwood finished this one! I then seconded

Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/15 2nd
darcan 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with ciara lane
nickstephens 01/Mar/15 Lead dnf
with Darcan
darcan 01/Mar/15 Lead dog

Best climb on dartmoor

with nick
snook 05/Oct/14 2nd dog
supersouthward 05/Oct/14 -
Hidden 24/Jul/14 Lead
Bristoldave 21/May/14 Lead rpt
with Dave Coley, Mark
hornbywill 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed clean went left at the top ended up lying on the top of the crag a bit close to the edge

Russell Blackaller 16/Apr/14 Lead

Brilliant evening climb! Awesome sunset blessed my first crag length fall. Went through the crux fine once I realized what had to be done. Placed one last nut below the bulging finish. Mantled on to the top (direct and unbelievably mossy finish) and slipped. Lobbed off to just below the flake overhang. I'd guess around 15 meters. Excellent!! Pulled back to the top and went left. Easier finish but apparently right is even easier. Amazing route!

with Charlotte
Hidden ?/Oct/13 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Cherry Bedford
andy_pemberton 10/Jul/13 Lead

Smoother today.

with Sarah Massey
alice fuller ?/Jul/13 2nd

Balancey way with feet on the hand rail.2nd dog Pete in2016 using the lower hand rail, but found the jams hard to find.. much easier once I had taken the cam out:)

Hidden 15/May/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead
skeight88 ?/May/13 TR
with Dominic
skeight88 ?/May/13 TR
with Dominic
Owen W-G 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Cruised the move around the arete (no crazy heel hooking, just frogged it) and subsequent crux. Top out was an unexpected treat. Best route of its grade on the Tors?

with Matt B
Matt77 26/Apr/13 2nd dog

A good lead by the Southerner. Would've shit myself on this if I'd had a go!

with Owen
kingholmesy ??/2013 -

Finished direct.

with David SDMC
Jordon Fleming 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

WOW ! what a climb really wild crux and lovely layback to the top out which was also intresting ! but really good route if u are good at high heel hooks

Cheese Monkey 27/Oct/12 2nd dog

Just didnt quite have the strength/technique to reach the flake, so got spat off into space. So aided up past. One day I will nail it!

Stanners 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Got stuck after struggling my way over to the flake. Just couldn't get into the crack above. Either I missed something or its fecking desperate. Good gear thankfully. Bat hanged the lip afterwards for a laugh.

with James Rich, Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

I think this is pretty hard for E2, there are two main methods for doing the crux each of which present their own set of problems in the end you have to just pick one and throw yourself at it. Unfortunately I picked the more powerful one and realised when going for the flake that I didn't have enough strength to get it despite having some crazy heel toe cam above my head.

burto 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
andy_pemberton 19/Sep/12 Lead dog

Messed up the crux reach and got pumped faffing about!

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
zachbassett10 23/Mar/12 TR β

really fun move on flake wishlist to lead in many years

mark schramm 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
with tom m
tommoulds 25/Feb/12 2nd
with Schramm
Tom D ??/2012 TR

lead next time

Rich Guest 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Worth stopping in for, but only just. Needed good agility round the corner and then everything gets rounded with nifty footwork needed both from the flake and at 'that topout' - Phew!

Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 27/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Frostie 26/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Just ran out of puff after move to flake, disappointed with performance but recovering from heavy cold.

dmoir 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Lauren and Rosie
Justin T 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Gilster 24/Apr/11 Lead
with Ethel
Mr Tickle 21/Apr/11 Lead dog

Great traverse but struggled with the move off the flake. Went straight at the top to the slopey top out...very interesting!

with davenev
Bristoldave 17/Apr/11 Lead RP

Bit disappointed to blow onsight. Great route though.

with nick
Frostie 12/Apr/11 Lead

Rested on ropes, no major falls, Tough move up to flake, good climb to have on wish list.

culmclimberRob 09/Apr/11 Lead RP

amazing move up to the flake just had trouble with the move off the flake to the crack, but what a great climb

with Aaron baker
jcook1980 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Dan Walker
leohl ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 07/Aug/10 2nd dnf
MarkRyder 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Deranged. Brilliant.

with James P
El3ctroFuzz 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Found it to be oki. Lovely Bird Shite :) Finished Direct at the top, above a nut i poorly placed, thinking it was easy. Didnt realise i could go right to the Jug.. Lol. Just another 5c bit, but very irreversible.

with Chris Full
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Macca_7 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Such a good route for the first 3rd then a romp to the top shame theres not a bit more to follow, however the first bit is ace and bloody tricky in the heat!

Legs 04/Jun/10 2nd
with Macca
JeromeT ?/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
Tobes ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Peter
Dave Searle 21/Sep/08 Lead

The best E2 i've done.

with Nick
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Sinbad
sinbad ?/Mar/07 2nd
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 TR dog
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/05 2nd dog
Mike_Hayes ??/2004 -
with Nolan Smyth
Hidden 17/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 13/May/00 Lead
with Rob Galley
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/98 Lead
with Rich Mayfield, Steve Gooberman Hill
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/1992 Lead
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 25
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
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Ground Up
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