3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
3 pitches. A genuine classic of the area. The first pitch follows a slab to a belay under a little overhang. The second pitch is partly hidden from below. Continue up and to the left, following a chimney with some old scrap metal inside. Early in the season it can be a good idea to bring some rock protection on this pitch. Belay below the steep third pitch, which is normally best taken on the right. To reach the best belay a 60m rope is needed. © Rockfax

Ticklists

European Ice Climbing

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UserDateNotes
ian bryant 23 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: excellent route, very exposed (and very exciting!?) up the final pillar. this was given Scottish VI when we did it and it certainly felt harder than the other stuff we did that's graded WI5 in this guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: excellent route, very exposed (and very exciting!?) up the final pillar. this was given Scottish VI when we did it and it certainly felt harder than the other stuff we did that's graded WI5 in this guide.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
steveb2006 8 Mar Lead Great to do again after 10 years. A bit tricky getting out round back of power station/museum up and down ladders. (Amazingly virtually no ice on Nye Vermorkfoss or Bakveien - has water source been altered? Some work being done on front of museum above possibly the reason?).
with Ian Cartwright
Great to do again after 10 years. A bit tricky getting out round back of power station/museum up and down ladders. (Amazingly virtually no ice on Nye Vermorkfoss or Bakveien - has water source been altered? Some work being done on front of museum above possibly the reason?).
with Ian Cartwright
tc7118 8 Mar 2nd First pitch
First pitch
carr0t 20 Feb -
mark-abz 20 Feb AltLd
with Derek M - AMC, carr0t
with Derek M - AMC, carr0t
BrianShackleton 19 Feb 2nd dnf First pitch only. Abbed off from bolts at top of pitch since pitches 2&3 running with water on advice of team ahead.
with HelenB
First pitch only. Abbed off from bolts at top of pitch since pitches 2&3 running with water on advice of team ahead.
with HelenB
HelenB 19 Feb Lead dnf Bottom of second pitch running with water with fragile ice so we backed off after the first pitch...
Bottom of second pitch running with water with fragile ice so we backed off after the first pitch...
Artem Babichenko 13 Feb Lead dnf Did only first pitch
Did only first pitch
Hidden 13 Feb 2nd dnf
philippoc93 13 Feb Lead dnf 1st pitch WI3 and descended
with Matthew Sammon
1st pitch WI3 and descended
with Matthew Sammon
Paul Collins 12 Feb AltLd O/S Pitches 1 & 3. Amazing route! Second pitch is thin and adventurous, top is long and steep! Good hooks though.
with Derek
Pitches 1 & 3. Amazing route! Second pitch is thin and adventurous, top is long and steep! Good hooks though.
with Derek
acrkirby 10 Feb AltLd O/S Took the middle pitch which was great with a real Scottish feel and Cliff took the crux final pitch which was hooked but very steep
with Cliff
Took the middle pitch which was great with a real Scottish feel and Cliff took the crux final pitch which was hooked but very steep
with Cliff
Tarquin 6 Feb -
benclimbing 5 Feb AltLd O/S
MrRiley 2 Feb AltLd Great to get this done after all these years, the second and third pitches are absolutely superb! Straight up the middle on third pitch and while the climbing was friendly with lots of hooks I still got pumped senseless and rested rather than risk a fall on day 1
Great to get this done after all these years, the second and third pitches are absolutely superb! Straight up the middle on third pitch and while the climbing was friendly with lots of hooks I still got pumped senseless and rested rather than risk a fall on day 1
andyinglis 2 Feb AltLd dog A good effort by Dave having a go at the crux 3rd pitch....
with MrRiley
A good effort by Dave having a go at the crux 3rd pitch....
with MrRiley
ChrisLloyd 31 Jan 2nd
UglyKidJoe 31 Jan 2nd
DanielJ 22 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S I fucking love this route. Long time no see. Led all pitches, pretty thin and snowed over in places. Luddes second day on ice, I clearly spoiled him...
with Ludde
I fucking love this route. Long time no see. Led all pitches, pretty thin and snowed over in places. Luddes second day on ice, I clearly spoiled him...
with Ludde
Aadashkevich 2 Mar, 2018 2nd
ClimbingGlen 2 Mar, 2018 Lead rpt lead all 5 pitches -17 very cold
lead all 5 pitches -17 very cold
Gerben Neven 1 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Tom Redwood 1 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Fairly stepped out on lower pitch lead by Phil, interesting second pitch on decent ice, down climbed and traversed to belay from bolted 'cave' after climbers abover were found to be slow. Lead another 10 metres of decent ice up to base of steep final pitch. Phil conquered the final steep WI-5 pitch, a few hooks and reasonable feet, longer and steeper than it looked, the main issue being getting screws into the hard -15 degree ice, even getting them out was a pain.
with Manc88
Fairly stepped out on lower pitch lead by Phil, interesting second pitch on decent ice, down climbed and traversed to belay from bolted 'cave' after climbers abover were found to be slow. Lead another 10 metres of decent ice up to base of steep final pitch. Phil conquered the final steep WI-5 pitch, a few hooks and reasonable feet, longer and steeper than it looked, the main issue being getting screws into the hard -15 degree ice, even getting them out was a pain.
with Manc88
Manc88 1 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1+3. Pleasant climbing on a hook/step ladder.
Led P1+3. Pleasant climbing on a hook/step ladder.
KrishuX 23 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
GHawksworth 20 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Milo
with Milo
Hidden 14 Feb, 2018 Lead
Hidden 13 Feb, 2018 2nd
montydog 10 Feb, 2018 2nd Excellent!!! Route is like a funnel so ice fall from top will hit other teams below
Excellent!!! Route is like a funnel so ice fall from top will hit other teams below
Cragcloud 8 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Don’t abseil down the line, there is a great trail you can hike. Awesome climb!
Don’t abseil down the line, there is a great trail you can hike. Awesome climb!
high peak 1 ?Feb, 2018 -
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Mathias Willerup 28 Jan, 2018 DWS
with pastard
with pastard
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2018 DWS O/S
SturlaS 27 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
tim20 ??, 2018 -
George Killaspy 22 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Milo
with Milo
ned_85 17 Feb, 2017 2nd
with Scott Marc Berry
with Scott Marc Berry
Dougbart 9 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Nicky, Mark tmrt
with Nicky, Mark tmrt
Hidden 25 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
GaryK 25 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Superb, an excellent route. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Superb, an excellent route. Thoroughly enjoyable.
gjd 25 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p 1 and 3
with Brian H
Led p 1 and 3
with Brian H
nickstephens 23 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Feb, 2016 AltLd
alexm198 21 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Matt Harle 21 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Done in 4 pitches, Ollie lead the first 3 and I got the sustained last pitch. The chimney was fun.
with Ollie Stevens
Done in 4 pitches, Ollie lead the first 3 and I got the sustained last pitch. The chimney was fun.
with Ollie Stevens
Hidden 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
davkeo 6 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant. Chimney pitch is really cool and the top bit is nice and steep. Done in 4 pitches.
Brilliant. Chimney pitch is really cool and the top bit is nice and steep. Done in 4 pitches.
alastairbegley 3 Feb, 2016 AltLd Great route, really atmospheric in the chimney before the steep finale
Great route, really atmospheric in the chimney before the steep finale
Jackislav ?Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
winst0n ?Feb, 2016 Lead
Roberttaylor 26 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Climbed on our last day, best route of the trip. In excellent condition.
Climbed on our last day, best route of the trip. In excellent condition.
Hidden 3 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
ClimbingGlen 3 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and 3. 1 was maybe a short wi4 with a sketchy thin ice section before the belay. Gav led pitch 2 over beautiful hanging chandeliers. Last pitch is the hardest and most sustained on similar Icey formations. But felt easy for the grade with good stepped sections for the feet at just the right points. An amazing classic climb in superb condition. Double abseil on bolted anchors.
with Jason Bryce, gavinpeach
Led pitch 1 and 3. 1 was maybe a short wi4 with a sketchy thin ice section before the belay. Gav led pitch 2 over beautiful hanging chandeliers. Last pitch is the hardest and most sustained on similar Icey formations. But felt easy for the grade with good stepped sections for the feet at just the right points. An amazing classic climb in superb condition. Double abseil on bolted anchors.
with Jason Bryce, gavinpeach
Hidden 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd dnf
Charlie Zephyr Booth 12 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with tim millen
with tim millen
csab1978 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Lee lead pitches 1 and 3. Great lead by Lee on the 3rd pitch.
with Big Lee
Lee lead pitches 1 and 3. Great lead by Lee on the 3rd pitch.
with Big Lee
Big Lee 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Climbed the final pitch on the left-hand side, which was more like a 4 via this way. Centre of the fall was too wet to consider a more sustained line. Really good route.
Lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Climbed the final pitch on the left-hand side, which was more like a 4 via this way. Centre of the fall was too wet to consider a more sustained line. Really good route.
ffdalton 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd Fantastic
with Dean Dalton
Fantastic
with Dean Dalton
PTG ?Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Enjoyable classic line, very popular so hooking possible all the way.
Enjoyable classic line, very popular so hooking possible all the way.
sanguine ?Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
with Jonn, Edvin
with Jonn, Edvin
Pete_Frost 21 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P1 (cruddy ice covered in snow - unpleasant), followed P2 - a brilliant and varied pitch worth 3 stars by itself, led P3 steep ice with some hooking. An excellent route. Abseiled down as deep snow prevented us from walking out.
Led P1 (cruddy ice covered in snow - unpleasant), followed P2 - a brilliant and varied pitch worth 3 stars by itself, led P3 steep ice with some hooking. An excellent route. Abseiled down as deep snow prevented us from walking out.
Paal Kristoffer 2 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
HP9 ?Jan, 2015 2nd
with Paddy cave
with Paddy cave
Paul Hastwell ??, 2015 -
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Blackthorn 8 Mar, 2014 2nd Bit wet on top pitch
with yarbles
Bit wet on top pitch
with yarbles
Blackthorn 6 Mar, 2014 Lead First pitch only as too melty
with yarbles
First pitch only as too melty
with yarbles
andy dunn 3 Mar, 2014 2nd Bottom pitches in decent condition. Top pitch was very wet.
with J
Bottom pitches in decent condition. Top pitch was very wet.
with J
Hidden 27 Feb, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 26 Feb, 2014 AltLd
BoulderyDave 25 Feb, 2014 2nd O/S
Marti999 25 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S A bit wet but great route. Deb did first pitch
A bit wet but great route. Deb did first pitch
Hidden 25 Feb, 2014 -
Sparrowmonkey 22 Feb, 2014 2nd Only did first 2 pitches as we thought the conditions weren't great. However when we got to the 2nd belay it looked ok, however was getting dark so absailed off. Great fun though.
with Ander
Only did first 2 pitches as we thought the conditions weren't great. However when we got to the 2nd belay it looked ok, however was getting dark so absailed off. Great fun though.
with Ander
Ander 22 Feb, 2014 Lead Two pitches, bailed as it got dark!
Two pitches, bailed as it got dark!
Pay Attention 21 Feb, 2014 Lead
with Stewart Young
with Stewart Young
planetmarshall 20 Feb, 2014 AltLd Excellent, worth its stars but nowhere near WI5. Suspect it could be, near the start of the season when it hasn't seen so much traffic.
with AmyG
Excellent, worth its stars but nowhere near WI5. Suspect it could be, near the start of the season when it hasn't seen so much traffic.
with AmyG
Hidden 17 Feb, 2014 -
James Thacker 16 Feb, 2014 -
with Kris Hill
with Kris Hill
Hidden 1 Feb, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 1 Feb, 2014 AltLd
WillCass 1 Feb, 2014 AltLd Done as 4 pitches, 1st Si, 2nd Dan then 3rd & 4th pitches on lead for me. Last pitch was steep & wild but fun. Awesome classic route.
with Dan, Si Withington
Done as 4 pitches, 1st Si, 2nd Dan then 3rd & 4th pitches on lead for me. Last pitch was steep & wild but fun. Awesome classic route.
with Dan, Si Withington
Hidden 30 Jan, 2014 AltLd
WillCass 30 Jan, 2014 AltLd Late in the day, so did two pitches before abbing off. Dan first, me second pitch which at present is thin & steep.....nice
with Dan, Si Withington
Late in the day, so did two pitches before abbing off. Dan first, me second pitch which at present is thin & steep.....nice
with Dan, Si Withington
Matt Barnes 24 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
with John V
with John V
Shaw Brown 17 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Amoss
with Dave Amoss
mileshill540 ??, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 1 Mar, 2013 AltLd
Mathias Willerup 1 Mar, 2013 -
tjmillen 28 Feb, 2013 AltLd
with Charlie
with Charlie
neilmclean 18 Feb, 2013 Lead Climbed with Gareth from Manchester's Karabiner club
Climbed with Gareth from Manchester's Karabiner club
Andrew Wilson 17 Feb, 2013 AltLd rpt P2
P2
gw3285 14 Feb, 2013 2nd
Hidden ?Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
tomwheeler 24 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Chuck 8 Feb, 2012 -
bengt 8 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and 3. Last pitch was wild!
with Chuck, Dom
Led pitch 1 and 3. Last pitch was wild!
with Chuck, Dom
Hidden 18 Jan, 2012 AltLd
williamsd79 11 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Will Marshall
with Will Marshall
Cardi 10 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Led pitches 1,3,4. Pitch 4 was the steepest ice I've ever climbed. Felt great afterwards!
with Jack S
Led pitches 1,3,4. Pitch 4 was the steepest ice I've ever climbed. Felt great afterwards!
with Jack S
Tim Bateman 1 Mar, 2011 Lead Getting thinner by the day in the middle section and well beaten out at the top but still a fantastic route.
with Nick Horton
Getting thinner by the day in the middle section and well beaten out at the top but still a fantastic route.
with Nick Horton
neilmclean ?Mar, 2011 2nd Alan
Alan
supos 25 Feb, 2011 AltLd rpt Did the first and third pitch. Super easy because of the many hook placements, but somewhat sketchy to protect, because of thin hollow ice and many predrilled holes. Still a superb route though.
with Lars Fjendbo
Did the first and third pitch. Super easy because of the many hook placements, but somewhat sketchy to protect, because of thin hollow ice and many predrilled holes. Still a superb route though.
with Lars Fjendbo
robertmichaellovell 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd Highly recommended! P2 somewhat mixed condition
with Lawrence
Highly recommended! P2 somewhat mixed condition
with Lawrence
wence 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 9 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S Amazing!
with yashvi
Amazing!
with yashvi
yashvi 9 Feb, 2011 2nd
with Adam Booth, Edwin Mitchell
with Adam Booth, Edwin Mitchell
edmitchell 9 Feb, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Feb, 2011 -
mschmude ?Feb, 2011 -
Mr Wild 31 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Goose4 30 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
simonward 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 29 Jan, 2011 Lead dnf P1 only, to have a look.
P1 only, to have a look.
Pete Nugent 29 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Followed "Oscar" up p1, just for a look
Followed "Oscar" up p1, just for a look
Hidden 23 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
mark88 20 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
with Joey Durkin
joeydurkin 20 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with mark88
with mark88
Neil McA 17 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with Nils Nielson
with Nils Nielson
astrange 15 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Superb classic! - A 'must do' Rjukan
with Simon Lund
Superb classic! - A 'must do' Rjukan
with Simon Lund
alan1234 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
supos 30 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Led the easy first pitch, then let Buur do his thing on the real climbing. Superb route - an ultra classic for a reason!
with Sune Buur
Led the easy first pitch, then let Buur do his thing on the real climbing. Superb route - an ultra classic for a reason!
with Sune Buur
DanielJ ?Mar, 2010 2nd rpt Moved together first two pitches (up to the pillar) which Daniel led. Nice warm-up before Juvsöyla!
with Daniel J.
Moved together first two pitches (up to the pillar) which Daniel led. Nice warm-up before Juvsöyla!
with Daniel J.
Henrik 24 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with Josef + Joakim
with Josef + Joakim
BorisVBlade 24 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Led Pitches 1 and 3. Really nice! Last pitch doesn't offer much for ice screw placements though.
with Neil D
Led Pitches 1 and 3. Really nice! Last pitch doesn't offer much for ice screw placements though.
with Neil D
Neil D 24 Feb, 2010 AltLd
mic_b 23 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
C Mclean 21 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Gary Wheeler
with Gary Wheeler
Hidden 19 Feb, 2010 AltLd
Graeme Barr 16 Feb, 2010 AltLd Led crux pitch
with Ben Smith
Led crux pitch
with Ben Smith
Bex_M 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead easy pitch
with Barra
Lead easy pitch
with Barra
juhah 12 Feb, 2010 2nd Soloed the first pitch.
with tuukka
Soloed the first pitch.
with tuukka
Hidden 12 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
AdrianP 11 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Matti L.
with Matti L.
MoWalker3 1 Feb, 2010 -
joeydurkin 25 Jan, 2010 AltLd 1st pitch JD, 2nd JR, 3rd JR
1st pitch JD, 2nd JR, 3rd JR
John Roe 25 Jan, 2010 AltLd Led pitches 2 & 3
with Joey Durkin
Led pitches 2 & 3
with Joey Durkin
alpinestar_no1 10 Jan, 2010 AltLd β
richardlong78 ?Jan, 2010 AltLd
with Dave Gleave
with Dave Gleave
Jamie Degel ?Jan, 2010 AltLd Timmy first pitch upto the hanging curtain.Stance built far left corner. I lead 2nd pitch great vertical climbing swung left and built a 3rd stance next to last pillar of steep ice wher timmy topped us out Abseiled the route out Great climb ***
with Timothy Riches
Timmy first pitch upto the hanging curtain.Stance built far left corner. I lead 2nd pitch great vertical climbing swung left and built a 3rd stance next to last pillar of steep ice wher timmy topped us out Abseiled the route out Great climb ***
with Timothy Riches
patsaunders ??, 2010 2nd
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd
ig248 ?Dec, 2009 2nd
DanielJ 7 Mar, 2009 AltLd rpt
with linus
with linus
MonkeyDawson 5 Mar, 2009 AltLd
with Si Mann
with Si Mann
9fingerjon 24 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Neil led P1, Me P2, James P3
with James H and Neil
Neil led P1, Me P2, James P3
with James H and Neil
Hidden 23 Feb, 2009 2nd O/S
DanielJ 16 Feb, 2009 AltLd rpt
with daniel, viktor
with daniel, viktor
steveb2006 27 Jan, 2009 Lead
DanielJ 16 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
with anders
with anders
Hidden 13 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ??, 2009 -
Hidden 18 Dec, 2008 2nd dnf
Rob Pitt ??, 2008 Lead
mgeek ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with tom sandison
with tom sandison
Hidden 8 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
lithos 8 Mar, 2007 2nd
with TonyM
with TonyM
feilx 3 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Seb
with Seb
Andrew Sloan 26 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Steve Grove
with Steve Grove
Hidden 25 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
jimdanson 24 Feb, 2006 AltLd Very wet. Got soaked to the skin on the second pitch.
with Dan Robinson
Very wet. Got soaked to the skin on the second pitch.
with Dan Robinson
charlesmfrench 29 Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S 2,L,2,L. And agaiin on 18/2/07 withh Anette.
with Simon Howe, Andy Tallent
2,L,2,L. And agaiin on 18/2/07 withh Anette.
with Simon Howe, Andy Tallent
Ander 25 Jan, 2005 -
Tarquin ??, 2005 2nd
plain kitten ??, 2000 Lead
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Voting
High WI-5+
Mid WI-5+
Low WI-5+
High WI-5
Mid WI-5
Low WI-5
High WI-4+
Mid WI-4+
Low WI-4+
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set