Rockfax Description
4 or 5 pitches. The huge pillar which is easily seen from the road above the Gorge. Start in a chimney with a small ice wall and continue on snow to a belay. There are two options:
1) Follow very thin ice over slabby rock to gain the bottom of the big pillar. This pitch can be very difficult to protect and sees variable conditions from season to season.
2) Follow the snow chimney to the top and climb mixed ground over to the pillar. Follow the pillar in two pitches (or one long one). Because of the steepness the pillar often has challenging ice conditions.
Descent - If the snow is deep, abseil back to the Gorge base. In less snow, continue to the road at the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

European Ice Climbing

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
steveb2006 11 Mar Lead Amazing intimidating route - sensational positions on very featured ice. Was very wet on some parts though in spite of -9 in morning. Felt great to top out on this. A 10 year ambition. Somewhat involved descent when we both drop our belay devices with iced gloves. Abb off on Italian hitches !!
with Ian Cartwright
Amazing intimidating route - sensational positions on very featured ice. Was very wet on some parts though in spite of -9 in morning. Felt great to top out on this. A 10 year ambition. Somewhat involved descent when we both drop our belay devices with iced gloves. Abb off on Italian hitches !!
with Ian Cartwright
MrRiley 3 Feb 2nd What a day! Amazing conditions, although bitterly cold first thing with brittle ice. I led the approach pitch over the slabs which is a calf- burner but no harder than WI3, Andy led the steep part in two pitches. Great ice features which made placements straightforward with some ready-made footholds. Relentlessly steep though and I had to rest about 10m from the top. A little gutted but very happy to have been on the mighty Juvsoyla!
What a day! Amazing conditions, although bitterly cold first thing with brittle ice. I led the approach pitch over the slabs which is a calf- burner but no harder than WI3, Andy led the steep part in two pitches. Great ice features which made placements straightforward with some ready-made footholds. Relentlessly steep though and I had to rest about 10m from the top. A little gutted but very happy to have been on the mighty Juvsoyla!
andyinglis 3 Feb AltLd O/S Great line, shame its not longer. Led top half.
with MrRiley
Great line, shame its not longer. Led top half.
with MrRiley
charlesmfrench 7 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt Fantastic conditions. Climbed left side of pillar which was dry in 3 pitches. Even the approach was all iced up, which Anette led.
with Anette
Fantastic conditions. Climbed left side of pillar which was dry in 3 pitches. Even the approach was all iced up, which Anette led.
with Anette
yakov 11 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Two long pitches, led the pillar. Right side the whole way. Challenging ice in the start, then steady.
Two long pitches, led the pillar. Right side the whole way. Challenging ice in the start, then steady.
KrishuX 26 Feb, 2018 2nd O/S
Si 22 Feb, 2018 AltLd Day off. I led the entry pitch, Stu took the steep crux pillar pitches
with Stu
Day off. I led the entry pitch, Stu took the steep crux pillar pitches
with Stu
TCarrick 21 Feb, 2018 2nd
tim20 ??, 2018 -
Rharrison 1 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S W/bjartur. Did the pillar in two pitches, I led the first which felt about WI4, Bjartur the second which was a wet WI5. Gotta be the most aesthetic route in rjukan, awesome!
W/bjartur. Did the pillar in two pitches, I led the first which felt about WI4, Bjartur the second which was a wet WI5. Gotta be the most aesthetic route in rjukan, awesome!
alexm198 26 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Psycheeeee! What an incredibly intimidating route. Glad we got on it though - bottom of the pillar provides amazing 3D cauliflower climbing that is much steeper than it looks from below and P2 provides a ludicrously exposed steep finale. The approach pitch was super well-iced but a bit rotten. Did it in 3 proper pitches, led 1 and 3. Rapped from the tree.
Psycheeeee! What an incredibly intimidating route. Glad we got on it though - bottom of the pillar provides amazing 3D cauliflower climbing that is much steeper than it looks from below and P2 provides a ludicrously exposed steep finale. The approach pitch was super well-iced but a bit rotten. Did it in 3 proper pitches, led 1 and 3. Rapped from the tree.
Matt Harle 26 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Poco Loco 5 Feb, 2016 2nd dog Pumpy climb for me! Very atmospheric feeling. The slabby pitch has some ice on it but a little hollow in places. Did the pillar in two pitches, with a belay on the left in an overhang. The ice was a little brittle in places, I was glad I wasn't on the sharp end. David did a great lead a placed plenty of screws - I had to sit on the rope several times to get them out.
with David M
Pumpy climb for me! Very atmospheric feeling. The slabby pitch has some ice on it but a little hollow in places. Did the pillar in two pitches, with a belay on the left in an overhang. The ice was a little brittle in places, I was glad I wasn't on the sharp end. David did a great lead a placed plenty of screws - I had to sit on the rope several times to get them out.
with David M
Hidden 26 Feb, 2015 2nd
Charlie Zephyr Booth 12 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with tim millen
with tim millen
PTG ?Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S After finished the line "Verdens Ende" we luckily saw no people on Juvsøyla. Good conditions, easy hooking and plenty of small rest ledges made this steep beautiful "monster" more kind of WI5 ish. Used 2 pitches, 1 for the lower part and 1 for the pillar. A must do in the Upper Gorge!
After finished the line "Verdens Ende" we luckily saw no people on Juvsøyla. Good conditions, easy hooking and plenty of small rest ledges made this steep beautiful "monster" more kind of WI5 ish. Used 2 pitches, 1 for the lower part and 1 for the pillar. A must do in the Upper Gorge!
Hidden 14 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Feb, 2014 AltLd dnf
neilmclean 27 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Given WI5 by Mathaius/Tania Schmitt
with Kris
Given WI5 by Mathaius/Tania Schmitt
with Kris
tjmillen 27 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
with Charlie
Andrew Wilson 21 Feb, 2013 AltLd dnf
Andrew Wilson 18 Feb, 2013 AltLd P2. Started too late so abseiled to return later in week.
P2. Started too late so abseiled to return later in week.
BorisVBlade 23 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2 and 4. Mixed conditions on pitch 2, perfect ice on last pitches.
with Sam Thompson
Lead pitch 2 and 4. Mixed conditions on pitch 2, perfect ice on last pitches.
with Sam Thompson
Adam Booth 9 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Great route, amazing natural hooks, the pillar was steep and sustained but never desperate. The approach pitch was the scariest to lead, teetering up thin and brittle ice with cod gear. Amazing exposure for an ice climb, great fun!
Great route, amazing natural hooks, the pillar was steep and sustained but never desperate. The approach pitch was the scariest to lead, teetering up thin and brittle ice with cod gear. Amazing exposure for an ice climb, great fun!
DanielJ ?Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Beautiful but banked out and easy. Approach pitch was the hardest with loose and snow covered rock. Led the whole pillar in one long pitch.
with Daniel J.
Beautiful but banked out and easy. Approach pitch was the hardest with loose and snow covered rock. Led the whole pillar in one long pitch.
with Daniel J.
mic_b 25 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
AdrianP 12 Feb, 2010 AltLd β
with Erik
with Erik
Hidden 12 Feb, 2010 AltLd β
Hidden 11 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
juhah 11 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Nice rock traverse on a ledge. Steep ice was almost only hooks. Long and great.
with tuukka
Nice rock traverse on a ledge. Steep ice was almost only hooks. Long and great.
with tuukka
centurion05 16 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
with milhouse
with milhouse
alpinestar_no1 10 Jan, 2010 AltLd β
Jamie Degel ?Jan, 2010 Lead Lead the First pitch over the small ice curtain on far right and traversed over the Rockwall circa 25m to a large flake in middle of wall.Thin ice Fell out of the 3rd pitch because my hooks broke out in ice very thin Ice Not good took a realy big whipper not too be Repeated.
with Klaus Kallesch DaV Hamburg, Timothy Riches
Lead the First pitch over the small ice curtain on far right and traversed over the Rockwall circa 25m to a large flake in middle of wall.Thin ice Fell out of the 3rd pitch because my hooks broke out in ice very thin Ice Not good took a realy big whipper not too be Repeated.
with Klaus Kallesch DaV Hamburg, Timothy Riches
Greg Boswell ?Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with mgeek
with mgeek
Smelly Fox 25 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Mark020
with Mark020
Hidden 25 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
MYSSAK 19 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
with Radek Josek
with Radek Josek
mgeek ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with greg boswell
with greg boswell
plain kitten ??, 2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??, 1999 AltLd O/S S,2,L,2.
with Fredrik
S,2,L,2.
with Fredrik
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Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set