Rockfax Description
3 pitches. A classic waterfall that is also an important historical ascent in Rjukan. The first pitch follows wide and good ice. Usually the best belay can be found to the left. Continue up the second pitch on increasingly narrow ice to a belay inside a cave. Continue up the ice wall at the back of the cave and branch out left onto an icy slab. Follow this slab to a low-angled chimney and climb out of the chimney on the left (thin or no ice) when you reach the chockstone (a large cam is useful here). © Rockfax

Hidden ?/Mar/17 Lead
Keith Lambley 24/Feb/17 Lead
with Kate R
Hidden 24/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
stratandrew 23/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

What a route! Good steep ice on the first two pitches (Steve p1, me p2) then Steve led the narrow (and lean) chimneys to a totally bare chockstone pitch. I led as a dry tool section which also involved a Hand jam. The horizontal feeder gully above was low on snow and ice so more shenanigans over chockstones and a final short ice pitch. A 'top ten' day out. Period.

Stuart Hurworth 23/Feb/17 2nd O/S

Absolutely brilliant!! Awkward and difficult approach from vemork bridge. Quite wet and deceptively steep 1st pitch, dry and tricky second. Gully pitch thin, wet but growing ice pillar, followed by left then right turns into chockstone gully. Chockstone pretty tricky to climb, very steep, no ice. Belly flopped onto it. Then bonus pitch in small gorge, another chockstone and ice wall! Amazing day out.

with Steve Graham, Andrew Stratford
Hidden 23/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
alan1234 12/Feb/17 Lead
Dougbart 10/Feb/17 AltLd
with Mark tmrt
Pete_Frost 28/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Beautiful finish to the week. Led P1 and P3. P1 is at that awkward, easy angle that kills your calves. P2 is delightful. P3 is fun, going through the icefall. I couldn't find a chockstone until after the climb had logically ended, so I don't know where that went.

with Colin Knowles
Hidden 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
gjd 26/Feb/16 AltLd

Led p1 and3

with Brian H
Hidden 25/Feb/16 AltLd
alexm198 25/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Softest WI4 ever? More like a straightforward WI3. Cool climb though, atmospheric positions in the little cave thing and the pillar is fun. Quite like Vanishing Gully on the Ben. Led P2. A bit of poo came out when we heard the crux dagger of Lipton collapse with a team on it...

ecromwell 25/Feb/16 AltLd

Pretty stepped out but amazing climbing in a great setting at the end of the gorge. Some nutjob attempted Lipton when we were halfway up and we heard the pillar go, was an extremely scary moment.

Matt Harle 25/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 24/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 24/Feb/16 2nd
with Chris Dickinson
pebbles 23/Feb/16 AltLd

Took big whipper of P1 when placements blew, lowered, had cup of tea and perspective, got back on and showed it who was boss. The cheeky little tinker .

with michael j, steve jenkins
Jackislav ?/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
sanguine ?/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

My first lead on multi pitch ice - lead up the first pitch in decent conditions, a bit wet at the second pitch in the grotto - no ice left for the last pitch and crux - some nice overhang roof to get on top

with Jonn, Edvin
ritid ?/Jan/15 2nd


Avinash Aujayeb ?/Jan/15 TR dog
with Paddy cave
HP9 ?/Jan/15 2nd
with Paddy cave
guy757 18/Feb/14 -
James Thacker 18/Feb/14 Lead

In poor condition at the moment, not recommended.

with Kris Hill
guy757 15/Mar/13 -
mark32 ?/Mar/13 -
Pay Attention 15/Feb/13 -
benny_m 15/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Paal Kristoffer 08/Feb/13 -
sarpedon 07/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

3 pitches, 3 people, 3 leads. I led pitch 1, Soph pitch 2, Floris pitch 3.

Sophie Nunn 07/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Sarp, Floris
6aPunter ??/2013 -
murray ?/Mar/12 AltLd
with Nicolas
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
murray ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/12 AltLd
supos 26/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed to the cave in one pitch, which involved some simul climbing, as our rope was only 50m. Good climb in a fantastic setting. Somewhat ruined by the many hook placements.

with Lars Fjendbo
Dibdawg 18/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

1st n' 3rd leads, awkward finish over a well iced bolder on a long run out, could have done with some nuts..!

with Jason Roberts
Hidden 05/Feb/11 -
Andrew Wilson 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

P2 and P3

Pete Nugent 05/Feb/11 AltLd rpt

Led p2 last year so led p1 this year. Pitch 3 was was leaner & much tougher than last year. Went direct over the rhs of the chockstone.

mschmude ?/Feb/11 -
Goose4 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
simonward 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Mr Wild 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
mark88 20/Jan/11 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
joeydurkin 20/Jan/11 AltLd
with Mark P
Ross Young 20/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Big thanks to the people who told the hydro technicians that we were down there. Their pump house broke down the same day we were there and were planning on flushing water on us.

with Mark from Glenmore
Plungeman 19/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Didn't get washed off! Excellent climbing with a squeeze though a hole under the major chockstone after the third belay as there wasn't any ice on the slabs to the left. Di guiding myself and Graeme as part of the MCofS trip to Rjukan 2011

with Di, Graeme
arduff ?/Jan/11 2nd
alan1234 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
C Mclean 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Karl, Kieran O' Sullivan
Tim Bateman 21/Feb/10 Lead
with George Bird
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/10 AltLd
Rampikino 15/Feb/10 Lead
with Cat
Bex_M 12/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Barra
Hidden 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 11/Feb/10 AltLd

led.p2. Excellent conditions, thick ice in chimney on p.3 so relatively easy - WI3+ in these conditions.

with Chris Vernon
Big Lee 03/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Climbed in 2 pitches. Climbed out through the back of the cave on the second pitch which was great fun. Ice conditions were all over the place on the route. At one point I realised I was climbing on ice a couple of inches thick beneath which was running water. Great route.

alpinestar_no1 10/Jan/10 AltLd β
keith leonard ??/2010 AltLd
lithos 13/Mar/09 AltLd

great route, fantastic location, phat ice. 1st pitch 60m on rope stretch !

with keithw
KeithW 13/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Rob long 1st pitch, me 2nd 'fun' pitch. Superb location, conditions & weather.

with Lithos
DanielJ 08/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

In two pitches, pretty thin in upper part. Fun route in cool setting.

with linus
Nicos 03/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with stuart mcinnes
Hidden 08/Feb/09 2nd
Kaiser999 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb in amazing soroundings.Problems with deep powder in places. Beautiful top pitch

with Ian Atkinson
GScot38 ?/Jan/09 Lead
andysroom ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
Hidden 04/Feb/08 Lead
Drapes ?/Feb/08 2nd
with Rosie Goolden
ShaneHoubart ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
DanielJ 17/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with anders
ashpreston ??/2008 -
Hidden 06/Mar/07 Lead dnf
Will Homoky 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3.

with Tom Hindson
Mike Hall 02/Mar/07 2nd

Brilliant climb, very thin ice slab pitch 3

with GGraham
Ally Gillies ?/Mar/07 2nd

Fantastic route. Very cold on 1st/2nd pitch as stuck behind another party. Watched Norwegians romp up Lipton. The cave is lovely and the 3rd pitch was a belter

with Cam, Kev Callaghan, cedric and mark
Andrew Sloan 27/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Steve Grove
Hidden 27/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Smelly Fox 22/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with Matt Croll
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1999 AltLd O/S


with Bj?rn
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