Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
27m.
An awesome route; steep and unrelenting.
Start from non-tidal ledges accessed by abseil.
Climb easy slabs up towards the talcy fault (which runs between the two lines Patental Concent and I Am Curious Yellow), arrange protection here where it steepens up, then traverse through the talcy fault to Quartz holds. Make steep moves from here up to an obvious undercut. Continue steeply up on generally excellent rock from here, following the cracks and right facing groove, until the final cracked headwall, negotiate this to the top.
Start from non-tidal ledges accessed by abseil.
Climb easy slabs up towards the talcy fault (which runs between the two lines Patental Concent and I Am Curious Yellow), arrange protection here where it steepens up, then traverse through the talcy fault to Quartz holds. Make steep moves from here up to an obvious undercut. Continue steeply up on generally excellent rock from here, following the cracks and right facing groove, until the final cracked headwall, negotiate this to the top.
Glenda Huxter.
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Route of Interest
Free Stone Henge
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)