Rockfax Description
The hanging crack that splits the jutting nose requires a bit of a tussle to access. Once established, things ease a lot. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fantastic butch struggle up the dirty, overhanging crack. An absolute must for Stanage conoisseurs.

Ticklists: Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Brown & Whillans Stanage.

TobyA 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Had all my hexes and cams on the right, which is exactly where you don't want them while trying to get them off your harness at the crux! Not actually that hard beyond that little battle.

with SimonW
Hidden 30/Sep/17 2nd dog
quickdrawmcraw 23/Sep/17 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Sep/17 2nd
mrteale 06/Jul/17 Solo O/S

Felt tricky and bunched up lower down, should have paid more attention to who the first ascensionist was! A good climb.

Ben Bransby 13/Jun/17 -
GregClixby 07/May/17 2nd RP
matus 09/Apr/17 2nd
Jan.Hrb 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Matus
Mowglee 06/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 06/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead
Nick1812P ??/2017 Solo G/U

I've tried this quite a few times before and it's just felt too awkward, not too bad today though.

fatboyslimfast ??/2017 -
Hidden 17/Oct/16 2nd
tombartlett 29/Sep/16 2nd dog
with Sameer
samkat 29/Sep/16 Lead dog


with Tom Bartlett
D.Russell 22/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Withey3 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S
fabricio 28/May/16 2nd
with lee
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd
MatthewH 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Highly enjoyable

Hidden 14/May/16 2nd dog
paulsross 08/May/16 2nd dog

Left arm injured so had to pull on gear

with Phil Biglands
Flavio 09/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd
Afell ??/2016 Lead
sambeaumont 09/Oct/15 Lead G/U
soph 27/Sep/15 Solo O/S
with Tony Stone
keitht 11/Jun/15 Lead

Reasonable protection but hard climbing. Not for the average VS leader....

with Dave Lomas
Derek Furze 07/Jun/15 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Brown 19/Apr/15 Lead
with Jeff
Mike505 19/Oct/14 Lead dog
buxtoncoffeelover 10/Sep/14 Lead
with Chris P
mountaingoatgirl 10/Sep/14 2nd dog

Not to be trusted! Esp. if you have short arms!

morganator 18/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
keith leonard 08/Oct/13 2nd
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead
thrutch 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Marc
Hidden 19/Jul/13 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Just got up it. Glad I wasn't soloing.

Andy Peak 1 ??/2013 Solo dnf

Found it very constricted cud not make the moves into the groove feel scure!

Hidden ?/Oct/12 2nd O/S
prometheus 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Steven C
JemG 27/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd dog
adam carless 24/Mar/12 Lead
victim of mathematics 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Awkward but fun.

with Adam
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
thomasmouse 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Gambit 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Barney
Gambit 18/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Barney
Mr. K 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Superb piece of thrutching!

Marcin78 ??/2011 Lead
with Tomek
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd
Phil Jennings 23/Jul/10 Lead
j4kub 30/Apr/10 TR

my first joe brown route, done in the rain

with claire gibson
migs493 07/Apr/10 2nd β

Very thrutchy!

with Jon L
Andrew Sandercock 08/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with rosie
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
nick bamber 18/Oct/09 2nd
mattish2000 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nick
ndraper1 ?/Oct/09 Lead
nai 17/Sep/09 2nd
with Mel
Stig 16/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Graeme Hammond 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with anthony
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
pebbles 27/Jul/08 2nd

start is awkward but there are hidden holds which are really good

with jonathan
Franco Cookson OLD 04/Jun/08 Solo O/S
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 05/Feb/07 2nd O/S

Nice moves

with Graeme Hammond
Nicos 28/Jan/07 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 01/Jul/06 2nd
Stig 14/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 13/Nov/04 Lead
Rob Davies 07/Sep/03 Lead

Dirty and awkward, i.e. hard - more like 5b than 4c

with Les Goram
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Chris Ellis 08/Sep/94 Lead rpt
with Andy Cave
Chris Ellis 07/Aug/94 2nd
with Rachel Nicolson
Mal Grey ??/1991 Lead O/S
Andy Say 19/Nov/88 Solo
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Dave Musgrove 17/Sep/79 -
Nigel Bond 17/Sep/78 Lead
with Dave Grey
Canyak ??/1973 -
mikej 26/Aug/67 Lead
with Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
mikej 03/Jul/67 Solo
with Geoff Williams
Hidden 19/Sep/65 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/65 TR
Hidden 15/Nov/64 TR
Hidden 10/Oct/64 TR
8 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 11
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set