Rockfax Description
II, 250m, 3 hours. If the couloir is dry, or if rocks are falling, the route can be started from the Col d'Entrèves with three pitches along the ridge to a junction with the Southeast Ridge. This is longer but safer than the couloir route, albeit with some sections of loose rock.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction and begin the gradual climb towards the Col d'Entréves. The route begins from the col itself.
1a) From the Col d'Entrèves, gain the ridge via a short snow slope (slabby rock in dry conditions).
2a) 3c. Follow the crest of the ridge, turning any difficulties on the Courmayeur (south) side. The famous slab section just before the first pinnacle is climbed 'a cheval' on the ridge crest and is the highlight of the lower ridge (3c).
3a) Continue along the crest to reach the small col where the couloir on the East Face joins the ridge and the Southeast Ridge route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
If the couloir is dry, or if rocks are falling, the route can be started from the Col d'Entrèves with three pitches along the ridge to a junction with the Southeast Ridge. This is longer but safer than the couloir route, albeit with some sections of loose rock.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 22 Aug Lead
Hidden 15 Jul 2nd rpt
steve_gibbs 6 Jul AltLd O/S
with Jacob Rose
with Jacob Rose
Hammy-G 4 Jul AltLd
carr0t 4 Jul - Done as part of full traverse. Nice summit, but a very chossy route. Not worth the stars.
with Hammy-G
Done as part of full traverse. Nice summit, but a very chossy route. Not worth the stars.
with Hammy-G
Hidden 2 Jul AltLd dnf
jrose99 ?Jul AltLd O/S
ajscott774 27 Jun AltLd O/S
joegrainger 24 Jun 2nd Did not finish - turned back at snow ascent due to poor snow conditions.
with Gav Pike
Did not finish - turned back at snow ascent due to poor snow conditions.
with Gav Pike
Cbulman 18 Jun - In descent
In descent
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 Lead
j.anstee 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led from the hut to start, then took over lead again after sect 2 in guide book until the end. Abseiled down the gully with 4 slings in place tomcroas burgshrung. Not the greatest of routes disapponitingly.
with Stu Quinn
Led from the hut to start, then took over lead again after sect 2 in guide book until the end. Abseiled down the gully with 4 slings in place tomcroas burgshrung. Not the greatest of routes disapponitingly.
with Stu Quinn
MaccMark 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd DNF
with Steve Graham, Stuart Hurworth
DNF
with Steve Graham, Stuart Hurworth
cacheson 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd Descent. A block the size of a minibus fell off the east side of the ridge so we had to take a slightly contorted route to get down
Descent. A block the size of a minibus fell off the east side of the ridge so we had to take a slightly contorted route to get down
QuentinSu 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
jon@asgardbeyond.is 5 Jun, 2018 -
with Róbert Halldórsson
with Róbert Halldórsson
Hidden 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 -
Guillem 22 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf
neal 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd From bivvy on Col d'Entreves. Accessed ridge via neve slopes to R of the col. Lovely ridge. Descended via couloir on E Face. No stonefall but snow rather soft. 30m ab over bergschrund.
with Stuart Mcleod
From bivvy on Col d'Entreves. Accessed ridge via neve slopes to R of the col. Lovely ridge. Descended via couloir on E Face. No stonefall but snow rather soft. 30m ab over bergschrund.
with Stuart Mcleod
benwmorgan 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd
mike.moss 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
wchan 25 Jul, 2016 -
dawp4810 8 Jul, 2016 -
Shaun Sharkey ?Jul, 2016 -
michaelb1 ?Jul, 1993 Lead
troybison ?Jul, 1993 2nd
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