4 pitches. Pitch 1 (4b) Climb the steep wall just left of the start of The Crack (by-passing the queues) to a ledge. Sneak round left over grass ledges (to avoid the hard steep crack) to climb a broad scoop, then round the arête to climb its right side, passing the crowds on the stance for The Crack, Dight, Gimmer String, etc. (It is possible but less pleasant to climb the right leaning corner/gully to reach the same point). Cross the dank gully and climb ledges diagonally left to reach a large cosy ledge at the foot of the huge soaring corner groove.
Pitch 2 (4b) Climb the initially manky corner for about 10m to a ledge on the left (tiny juniper tree). (Inertia starts here, up the hanging groove to the right.) Continue up awkward cracks, then the corner proper, finally the slab (loose block) to a fine small stance in a shallow recess.
Pitch 3 (4b) The best 4b pitch on the crag, with superb and devious climbing in spectacular and exposed positions. Steady leader and second required. Climb up rightwards towards the corner then traverse left over an alarmingly perched pillar to reach a small chimney. Up again, then traverse left across the overhung and undercut slab to reach the foot of a square-cut L-facing corner. Climb this for 2m then follow a devious up-and-down traverse below a hanging rib to reach a groove leading to a superbly positioned stance.
Pitch 4 (4b) Short but sweet. Neglect the evil-looking mossy cracks above (Bridge's Variation, 5a) in favour of the exposed slabs up and left, and finish up a short awkward groove.

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 27 Feb Lead O/S
eldre070 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Ran as 4 separate pitches as per the Guide. It’s a surprisingly long route with only P3 any good, and it’s very good! Some loose rock
Ran as 4 separate pitches as per the Guide. It’s a surprisingly long route with only P3 any good, and it’s very good! Some loose rock
john jennings 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led 1 and 3. First pitch, ungraded, felt like a slap in the face. Third pitch was great. It felt scary and yet was still only 4b when you think about.
with Phil
Led 1 and 3. First pitch, ungraded, felt like a slap in the face. Third pitch was great. It felt scary and yet was still only 4b when you think about.
with Phil
charliesdad 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd First two pitches are not "tedious" as the guidebook suggests! Some good moves on every pitch, but P3 the standout
First two pitches are not "tedious" as the guidebook suggests! Some good moves on every pitch, but P3 the standout
williemiller 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with graham
with graham
bigglesbutcha 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd dnf Mini epic, fierce winds, and rope damage.
with Murray Gallagher
Mini epic, fierce winds, and rope damage.
with Murray Gallagher
alpinismo.uk 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Bit grotty on and off for the first two pitches, then the last two pitches can be run together, last two pitches really good position under the roof.
Bit grotty on and off for the first two pitches, then the last two pitches can be run together, last two pitches really good position under the roof.
Nigel Bond 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Lee Sheard 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Adam1973 5 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
stewart murray 5 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd
stewart murray ??, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd
steve prior ?Apr, 2010 Lead
with Roger C
with Roger C
beaumap ??, 2009 AltLd
with Peter Camp
with Peter Camp
Seymore Butt ??, 2009 -
Rob Rocket 8 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Dave Wearing
with Dave Wearing
Dave Wearing 8 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Rocket.
with Rocket.
Hidden 8 Jul, 2007 2nd
five 10 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S Loose rock and not well protected.
with PM
Loose rock and not well protected.
with PM
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
Nick Beckett ??, 2005 -
Hidden 25 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?May, 2000 Lead An unjustly neglected route. There is a rather grotty start to pitch 2 but otherwise this is a great route. The third pitch is in my opinion the best 4b pitch in Langdale, if not the whole Lakes. It is fantastically exposed, with intricate route finding. Even if the rest of the route were a load of rubbish (which it certainly isn't) this would make it worth doing. Best after a dry spell of a week or so.
with Debbie Wilkinson
An unjustly neglected route. There is a rather grotty start to pitch 2 but otherwise this is a great route. The third pitch is in my opinion the best 4b pitch in Langdale, if not the whole Lakes. It is fantastically exposed, with intricate route finding. Even if the rest of the route were a load of rubbish (which it certainly isn't) this would make it worth doing. Best after a dry spell of a week or so.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Dave Westby ??, 1995 Lead
with Phil Caley
with Phil Caley
Andy Say 8 May, 1993 Lead
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 16 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Dennis Mitchelle
with Dennis Mitchelle
Rob Davies 1 Jul, 1984 AltLd
with Mike Papworth
with Mike Papworth
Hammy 30 Jun, 1982 Lead
with Pete Smith
with Pete Smith
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1981 Lead
Lone Rider ?May, 1977 AltLd
Peter Main 26 Apr, 1974 2nd A super days climbing in excellent weather
with Robin Andrews & Fran Bashford
A super days climbing in excellent weather
with Robin Andrews & Fran Bashford
Hidden 16 Oct, 1972 Lead
Hidden ??, 1972 AltLd
mikej 18 Sep, 1971 Lead
with E C/W
with E C/W
Martin Bennett 22 Apr, 1971 -
with Steph Michniewski, JD
with Steph Michniewski, JD
Gordon Stainforth 16 Jun, 1970 AltLd
with Phil --
with Phil --
Dave Musgrove 5 Jul, 1969 AltLd
with Jim Worthington
with Jim Worthington
uphillnow ??, 1969 Lead
with Pete Clayton
with Pete Clayton
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 11
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set