4 pitches. Pitch 1 (4b) Climb the steep wall just left of the start of The Crack (by-passing the queues) to a ledge. Sneak round left over grass ledges (to avoid the hard steep crack) to climb a broad scoop, then round the arĂȘte to climb its right side, passing the crowds on the stance for The Crack, Dight, Gimmer String, etc. (It is possible but less pleasant to climb the right leaning corner/gully to reach the same point). Cross the dank gully and climb ledges diagonally left to reach a large cosy ledge at the foot of the huge soaring corner groove.
Pitch 2 (4b) Climb the initially manky corner for about 10m to a ledge on the left (tiny juniper tree). (Inertia starts here, up the hanging groove to the right.) Continue up awkward cracks, then the corner proper, finally the slab (loose block) to a fine small stance in a shallow recess.
Pitch 3 (4b) The best 4b pitch on the crag, with superb and devious climbing in spectacular and exposed positions. Steady leader and second required. Climb up rightwards towards the corner then traverse left over an alarmingly perched pillar to reach a small chimney. Up again, then traverse left across the overhung and undercut slab to reach the foot of a square-cut L-facing corner. Climb this for 2m then follow a devious up-and-down traverse below a hanging rib to reach a groove leading to a superbly positioned stance.
Pitch 4 (4b) Short but sweet. Neglect the evil-looking mossy cracks above (Bridge's Variation, 5a) in favour of the exposed slabs up and left, and finish up a short awkward groove.

Ticklists: Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS.

eldre070 04/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

Ran as 4 separate pitches as per the Guide. It’s a surprisingly long route with only P3 any good, and it’s very good! Some loose rock

john jennings 12/Jul/17 AltLd

Led 1 and 3. First pitch, ungraded, felt like a slap in the face. Third pitch was great. It felt scary and yet was still only 4b when you think about.

with Phil
charliesdad 12/Jul/17 AltLd

First two pitches are not "tedious" as the guidebook suggests! Some good moves on every pitch, but P3 the standout

williemiller 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with graham
bigglesbutcha 08/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Mini epic, fierce winds, and rope damage.

with Murray Gallagher 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Bit grotty on and off for the first two pitches, then the last two pitches can be run together, last two pitches really good position under the roof.

Nigel Bond 28/Jul/14 AltLd
Lee Sheard 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Adam1973 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
stewart murray 05/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd
stewart murray ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead
beaumap ??/2009 AltLd
with Peter Camp
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Rob Rocket 08/Aug/07 AltLd
with Dave Wearing
Dave Wearing 08/Aug/07 AltLd
with Rocket.
Hidden 08/Jul/07 2nd
five 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Loose rock and not well protected.

with PM
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Nick Beckett ??/2005 -
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/May/00 Lead

An unjustly neglected route. There is a rather grotty start to pitch 2 but otherwise this is a great route. The third pitch is in my opinion the best 4b pitch in Langdale, if not the whole Lakes. It is fantastically exposed, with intricate route finding. Even if the rest of the route were a load of rubbish (which it certainly isn't) this would make it worth doing. Best after a dry spell of a week or so.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Dave Westby ??/1995 Lead
with Phil Caley
Andy Say 08/May/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 16/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Dennis Mitchelle
Rob Davies 01/Jul/84 AltLd
with Mike Papworth
Hammy 30/Jun/82 Lead
with Pete Smith
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Lone Rider ?/May/77 AltLd
Peter Main 26/Apr/74 2nd

A super days climbing in excellent weather

with Robin Andrews & Fran Bashford
Hidden 16/Oct/72 Lead
Hidden ??/1972 AltLd
mikej 18/Sep/71 Lead
with E
Martin Bennett 22/Apr/71 -
with Steph Michniewski, JD
Gordon Stainforth 16/Jun/70 AltLd
with Phil --
Dave Musgrove 05/Jul/69 AltLd
with Jim Worthington
uphillnow ??/1969 Lead
with Pete Clayton
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