Climbs 102
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 525m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

'D' route on Gimmer © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes

There are three main approaches;
From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.
Alternatively follow Mickleden until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.

Guidebooks

Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pallid Buttress
2 Ashen Traverse
-
VS 4c * 2
3 Wall End
-
MS * 2
4 Paleface
-
S 4a * 4
5 Pallid Slabs
-
S 4a ** 8
6 Nocturne VS 4b ** 6
7 Hash'n'Trash
-
E1 5c *  
  North West Face (Upper Section)
9 Junipall Gully
-
M 6
10 Juniper Buttress
-
MS * 4
11 Ray Parker Is Innocent
-
VS 4c * 2
12 Godiva Groove VS 4b * 14
13 The Dream Merchants
-
VS 5a * 2
14 Carpetbagger VS 4b ** 9
15 Grand Finale E1 5b ** 37
16 Grooves Traverse HVS 5a ** 7
17 Grooves Superdirect
-
HVS 5b ** 9
18 Inertia HVS ** 27
19 Hiatus: Bridge's Variation
-
VS 5a  
20 Hiatus VS 4b * 42
21 Dancin' Barefoot
-
E1 5b 1
22 Dight
-
E1 5b * 19
23 Outside Tokyo, Original Finish
-
E2 5b 4
24 Outside Tokyo/Dight E1 5b *** 123
25 Gimmer High Girdle
-
E1 5b **  
26 The Crack VS 4c *** 820
27 Gimmer String Direct Start
-
HVS 4
28 Gimmer String E1 5b *** 295
29 Breaking Point
-
E2 5c * 3
30 Midnight Movie E4 6b ** 9
  North West Face (Lower Section)
32 Samaritan Corner VS 4c * 59
33 Detour VS 4c ** 52
34 Asterisk VS 4b *** 522
35 North West Arete VS 4b *** 875
36 North-West Eliminate HVS 5a ** 16
Climb name Grade
37 Langdale Cowboys
-
E4 5c * 4
38 Langdale Cowboys Continuation
-
E4 6b  
39 Intern E1 5b *** 339
40 Joas
-
VS 4c * 41
41 Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct Start
-
VS 4b 4
42 Ash Tree Slabs VD *** 1118
43 Ash Tree Slabs Direct
-
VS 4b ** 46
44 Ash Tree Corner VS 4c ** 169
45 Crystal E1 5b ** 72
46 Introduction VS 4b ** 115
47 Herdwick Buttress VD * 71
48 Gambol VS 4b * 3
49 Cartwheel
-
VD * 4
50 Interlude VD * 17
51 Prelude
-
D 38
52 Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West Face
-
VS 4c ** 1
  West Face
54 Barry's Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
55 Kipling Groove HVS 5a *** 861
56 Equus E2 5c *** 180
57 Equus Original Finish Variation
-
E2  
58 Eastern Hammer E3 6a *** 150
59 Hyphen
-
S 4a * 13
60 Enormous Room
-
E3 6a * 3
61 Poacher E1 5b ** 74
62 Poacher Right-Hand
-
E2 5b ** 8
63 'F' Route VS 4c *** 830
64 Whit's End
-
VS 4c ** 57
65 Whit's End Direct E1 5b *** 540
66 Spring Bank E2 5c *** 368
67 Phiz-Holdens Climb
-
E1 5c * 11
68 Musgrave's Traverse
-
MVS 4c 1
69 Dodgy 'D' Variation
-
HVS 5a 1
70 'D' Route S 4a *** 856
71 South-East Lower Traverse
-
D 4
72 Sleeping Soilders
-
E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
73 South-East Upper Traverse
-
M 2
74 Chimney buttress
-
S ** 33
75 Bachelor Crack
-
HS 4b ** 58
76 Gimmer Gorilla
-
E1 5b 1
77 South-East Gully
-
2 25
78 Ee-By-Gum E1 5c * 5
79 Topaz
-
VS 4c ** 11
80 Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl VD *** 99
81 Lichen Groove
-
HS 4b ** 26
82 'E' Route
-
HS 4b * 37
83 The Crimson Pirate VS 4b 55
84 Diphthong
-
HS 4b * 22
85 'A' Route S 4a *** 287
86 'C' Route S 4b *** 619
87 'B' Route VS 5a ** 258
  South East Face
89 Green Gambit Variation
-
VS 4b  
90 Bracket Direct HVS 5a ** 32
91 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 88
92 Bracket and Slab Climb Direct start
-
VS 4b 307
93 Bracket and Slab Climb VS 4b *** 967
94 Absence Of Malice
-
E2 5c * 7
95 Remembrance HVS 5a ** 73
96 British Bulldogs
-
E5 6b  
97 Gimmer Chimney VD *** 476
98 The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5a ** 8
  Main Wall
100 Out of the Blue VS 4c * 1
101 Grondle Grooves
-
HS * 7
102 Headwall Central Crack
-
HVS 5a * 8
103 Headwall Left Crack E3 6a 1
104 Headwall Right Crack
-
HVS 5a * 5
105 Main Wall Climb
-
VD ** 262
106 The Purple Edge VS 4c ** 64
107 Three Tiers Climb VS 4c ** 21
108 Availed of tiers HS * 21

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull