Climbs 101
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 525m a.s.l
Faces S

'D' route on Gimmer © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes

There are three main approaches;
From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.
Alternatively follow Mickledore until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.


Langdale (2013)
Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Wall 
2Availed of tiersHS *8
3Three Tiers ClimbVS 4c **11
4The Purple EdgeVS 4c **33
5Main Wall Climb
VD **197
6Headwall Left CrackE3 6a 1
7Headwall Central Crack
HVS 5a *6
8Headwall Right Crack
HVS 5a *5
9Grondle Grooves
HS *6
 South East Face 
11South-East Gully
2 20
12Gimmer Gorilla
E1 5b  
13Bachelor Crack
HS 4b **41
14Chimney buttress
S **27
15South-East Upper Traverse
M 2
16Sleeping Soilders
E2 5b  
17South-East Lower Traverse
D 3
18Gimmer Chimney
VD ***407
19British Bulldogs
E5 6b  
20RememberanceHVS 5a **59
21Absence Of Malice
E2 5c *6
22Bracket and Slab Climb
S ***795
23Bracket and Slab Climb Direct start
VS 4b 270
24Crow's Nest Direct
HVS 5a **79
25Bracket DirectHVS 5a **12
26Green Gambit Variation
VS 4b  
 West Face 
28'B' Route
S ***222
29'C' Route
S ***506
30'A' Route
MS ***231
HS 4b *23
32The Crimson PirateVS 4b 24
33'E' Route
HS 4b *33
34Lichen Groove
HS 4b **18
35Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl
VD ***97
E1 5c *2
37'D' RouteS ***734
38Dodgy 'D' Variation
HVS 5a 1
39Musgrave's Traverse
MVS 4c 1
40Phiz-Holdens Climb
E1 5c *8
41Spring Bank
E2 5c ***322
42Whit's End Direct
E1 5b ***482
43Whit's End
VS 4c **49
44'F' Route
VS 4c ***778
E1 5a **66
46Poacher Right-Hand
E2 5b **4
47Enormous Room
E3 6a *3
S 4a *11
49Eastern Hammer
E3 6a ***114
E2 5c ***165
51Equus Original Finish Variation
52Kipling Groove
HVS 5a ***845
53Barry's Traverse
VS 4c 4
54Topaz *
VS 4c **1
 North West Face (Lower Section) 
D 26
57InterludeVD *17
VD *4
59GambolVS 4b *2
60Herdwick ButtressVD **52
61IntroductionMVS 4b **88
E1 5b **58
63Ash Tree CornerVS 4c *148
64Ash Tree Slabs Direct
VS 4b **37
65Ash Tree Slabs
VD ***925
66Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct Start
VS 4b 4
VS 4c *36
E1 5b ***285
69Langdale Cowboys
E4 5c *2
70Langdale Cowboys Continuation
E4 6b  
71North-West EliminateHVS 5a **3
72North West Arete
VS 4b ***710
VS 4b ***424
VS 4c **41
75Samaritan Corner
MVS 4c **54
76Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West Face
VS 4c **1
 North West Face (Upper Section) 
78Midnight Movie
E4 6b **7
79Breaking Point
E2 5c *3
80Gimmer String
E1 5b ***272
81Gimmer String Direct Start
82The Crack
VS 4c ***813
83Gimmer High Girdle
E1 5b ** 
84Outside Tokyo/Dight
E1 5b ***95
85Outside Tokyo, Original Finish
E2 5b 4
E1 5b *19
87Dancin' Barefoot
E1 5b 1
88HiatusVS 4b **43
89Hiatus: Bridge's Variation
VS 5a  
HVS 5a **21
91Grooves Superdirect
HVS 5b **9
92Grooves TraverseHVS 5a **5
93Grand FinaleE1 5b ***27
94CarpetbaggerVS 4b **7
95The Dream Merchants
VS 5a *2
96Godiva GrooveVS 4b *10
97Ray Parker Is Innocent
VS 4c *1
98Juniper Buttress
MS *4
99Junipall Gully
M 6
 Pallid Buttress 
E1 5c * 
102NocturneVS 4b **7
103Pallid Slabs
S 4a **7
S 4a *4
105Wall End
MS *2
106Ashen Traverse
VS 4c *2
107The Girdle Traverse
HVS 5a **5
108Out of the Blue *VS 4c *1
 Unknown location 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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