Climbs 102
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 525m a.s.l
Faces S

'D' route on Gimmer © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Long routes of all grades on superb rock in a fantastic position. One of the best crags in the Lakes. Classics - Gimmer Chimney(VD), Bracket and Slab(MVS), A,B,C and D Routes(S), Oliversons(VD), Spring Bank(E2), Whits End Direct(E1), F Route(VS), Eastern Hammer(E3), Equus(E2), Kipling Groove(HVS), Ash Tree Slabs(VD), Intern(E1), NW Arete(VS), Asterisk(MVS), Gimmer String(E1), The Crack(VS), Dight(E1), Grand Finale(E1).

Approach notes

There are three main approaches;
From Stickle Barn NT car park take the main Dungeon Ghyll from the North end of the car park. Cross the gill after 500m and then continue for another 1km until you emerge on to an open plateau. Head west and when the path starts to rise again take a faint left track at a large cairn, the crag comes into view.
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel take the path towards Raven crag as far as the gate in the new fence. Turn left & follow a slight track below the fence to a stile then zig zag up the scree. Continue in the same direction for 50m until a better defined path leads right then back left across an area of terraces. Continue diagonally left wards, into a ravine. Beyond this either head horizontally to the NW Face or upwards to the SE Face.
Alternatively follow Mickledore until you are below the crag, then head gruellingly upwards.

Guidebooks

Langdale (2013)
Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
Baffled by the star ratings given for routes on this crag by UKC. Why are classics such as 'D' Route and North-west Arete only given one star? They are 3 star routes in the FRCC guide, and I'm sure most who have climbed them would agree with this.
CathS - 25/Jul/11
No, the walk-in isn't a pain, it's a joy!
Rog Wilko - 01/Jun/10
One of the finest crags in the Lakes with loads of classic routes. The walkin is a pain, but if you solo Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag first (a polished Diff)and then traverse the hillside it makes it much nicer. Go there.
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 Availed of tiers HS * 9
3 Three Tiers Climb VS 4c ** 15
4 The Purple Edge VS 4c ** 41
5 Main Wall Climb
-
VD ** 204
6 Headwall Left Crack E3 6a 1
7 Headwall Central Crack
-
HVS 5a * 6
8 Headwall Right Crack
-
HVS 5a * 5
9 Grondle Grooves
-
HS * 7
  South East Face
11 South-East Gully
-
2 20
12 Gimmer Gorilla
-
E1 5b  
13 Bachelor Crack
-
HS 4b ** 43
14 Chimney buttress
-
S ** 25
15 South-East Upper Traverse
-
M 2
16 Sleeping Soilders
-
E2 5b  
17 South-East Lower Traverse
-
D 3
18 Gimmer Chimney
-
VD *** 419
19 British Bulldogs
-
E5 6b  
20 Remembrance HVS 5a ** 61
21 Absence Of Malice
-
E2 5c * 7
22 Bracket and Slab Climb
-
S *** 839
23 Bracket and Slab Climb Direct start
-
VS 4b 278
24 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 72
25 Bracket Direct HVS 5a ** 14
26 Green Gambit Variation
-
VS 4b  
  West Face
28 'B' Route
-
S *** 235
29 'C' Route
-
S *** 551
30 'A' Route
-
MS *** 243
31 Diphthong
-
HS 4b * 23
32 The Crimson Pirate VS 4b 33
33 'E' Route
-
HS 4b * 40
34 Lichen Groove
-
HS 4b ** 24
35 Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl
-
VD *** 103
36 Ee-By-Gum
-
E1 5c * 2
37 'D' Route S *** 773
38 Dodgy 'D' Variation
-
HVS 5a 1
39 Musgrave's Traverse
-
MVS 4c 1
40 Phiz-Holdens Climb
-
E1 5c * 8
41 Spring Bank
-
E2 5c *** 334
42 Whit's End Direct
-
E1 5b *** 504
43 Whit's End
-
VS 4c ** 62
44 'F' Route
-
VS 4c *** 806
45 Poacher
-
E1 5a ** 70
46 Poacher Right-Hand
-
E2 5b ** 10
47 Enormous Room
-
E3 6a * 3
48 Hyphen
-
S 4a * 13
49 Eastern Hammer
-
E3 6a *** 127
50 Equus
-
E2 5c *** 176
51 Equus Original Finish Variation
-
E2  
52 Kipling Groove
-
HVS 5a *** 890
53 Barry's Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
54 Topaz *
-
VS 4c ** 1
  North West Face (Lower Section)
56 Prelude
-
D 31
57 Interlude VD * 16
58 Cartwheel
-
VD * 4
59 Gambol VS 4b * 2
60 Herdwick Buttress VD ** 55
61 Introduction MVS 4b ** 94
62 Crystal
-
E1 5b ** 53
63 Ash Tree Corner VS 4c * 152
64 Ash Tree Slabs Direct
-
VS 4b ** 46
65 Ash Tree Slabs
-
VD *** 974
66 Ash Tree Slabs Variation Super Direct Start
-
VS 4b 4
67 Joas
-
VS 4c * 40
68 Intern
-
E1 5b *** 296
69 Langdale Cowboys
-
E4 5c * 2
70 Langdale Cowboys Continuation
-
E4 6b  
71 North-West Eliminate HVS 5a ** 5
72 North West Arete
-
VS 4b *** 755
73 Asterisk
-
VS 4b *** 447
74 Detour
-
VS 4c ** 46
75 Samaritan Corner
-
MVS 4c ** 50
76 Girdle Traverse of Lower North-West Face
-
VS 4c ** 1
  North West Face (Upper Section)
78 Midnight Movie
-
E4 6b ** 7
79 Breaking Point
-
E2 5c * 3
80 Gimmer String
-
E1 5b *** 289
81 Gimmer String Direct Start
-
HVS 3
82 The Crack
-
VS 4c *** 835
83 Gimmer High Girdle
-
E1 5b **  
84 Outside Tokyo/Dight
-
E1 5b *** 101
85 Outside Tokyo, Original Finish
-
E2 5b 4
86 Dight
-
E1 5b * 19
87 Dancin' Barefoot
-
E1 5b 1
88 Hiatus VS 4b ** 48
89 Hiatus: Bridge's Variation
-
VS 5a  
90 Inertia
-
HVS 5a ** 21
91 Grooves Superdirect
-
HVS 5b ** 7
92 Grooves Traverse HVS 5a ** 7
93 Grand Finale E1 5b *** 27
94 Carpetbagger VS 4b ** 16
95 The Dream Merchants
-
VS 5a * 2
96 Godiva Groove VS 4b * 14
97 Ray Parker Is Innocent
-
VS 4c * 1
98 Juniper Buttress
-
MS * 4
99 Junipall Gully
-
M 6
  Pallid Buttress
101 Hash'n'Trash
-
E1 5c *  
102 Nocturne VS 4b ** 9
103 Pallid Slabs
-
S 4a ** 7
104 Paleface
-
S 4a * 4
105 Wall End
-
MS * 2
106 Ashen Traverse
-
VS 4c * 2
107 The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5a ** 5
108 Out of the Blue * VS 4c * 1
  Unknown location
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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