Rockfax Description
An airy pitch up the wall above the Kipling Groove overlap that requires a confident approach. High in the grade.
1) 10m. Make an easy traverse leftwards to a stance and belay just below the long band of overhangs - as for Kipling Groove.
2) 5c, 35m. Follow Kipling Groove until midway along the traverse under the overhang and make a committing pull over it to an easing (this section is shared with Midnight Movie - p.ยงยงยง). Climb intricately up the open groove above and then left to join Kipling Groove. Move up then left to a small perch. Ascend the groove and wall to the right to meet a horizontal break just below the top. Finish leftwards along the break. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), Best of the rest and the ones that got away

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
jim robertson ?? Lead
Robb Bert 21 Sep, 2019 Lead
with Nick Bamber
with Nick Bamber
John Kettle 20 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S
beds74 17 Sep, 2019 Lead Finally got on it and it didn't disappoint! Pull over the roof went smooth, holds not bad if held right, and being tall helped. Move into groove a long way from you're gear, but gear good once established in groove. A hip flexor workout in the groove and found move left trying with brand new out the box shoes on...Did original finish, and see why most people bottle it and do Kipling's finish. Although the swing left is fun if exposed. Crack to finish is a delight. Shame my 2nd couldn't 2nd it... So 2 abseils and a lot of walking sorted this. Fine fine route.
with Craig Hartley
Finally got on it and it didn't disappoint! Pull over the roof went smooth, holds not bad if held right, and being tall helped. Move into groove a long way from you're gear, but gear good once established in groove. A hip flexor workout in the groove and found move left trying with brand new out the box shoes on...Did original finish, and see why most people bottle it and do Kipling's finish. Although the swing left is fun if exposed. Crack to finish is a delight. Shame my 2nd couldn't 2nd it... So 2 abseils and a lot of walking sorted this. Fine fine route.
with Craig Hartley
esther ?Sep, 2019 2nd
markfairbank 23 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S Found the initial pull through the overlap hard. Took a while working up the nerve. Climbing above is steady, but the gear in the groove is a touch hard to come by at first. Should have taken more draws. Easier once KG is reached but still keeps coming. Tough E2.
Found the initial pull through the overlap hard. Took a while working up the nerve. Climbing above is steady, but the gear in the groove is a touch hard to come by at first. Should have taken more draws. Easier once KG is reached but still keeps coming. Tough E2.
Anne Fairbank 23 Jun, 2019 2nd dog
pie_eater_pete 23 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
im off 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Takes abit of nerve launching out from kg traverse but once you've done that you just keep going. Gear ok. Technical. Bridging. Not pumpy at all. More holds on it than you think.
with Mr bowers
Takes abit of nerve launching out from kg traverse but once you've done that you just keep going. Gear ok. Technical. Bridging. Not pumpy at all. More holds on it than you think.
with Mr bowers
Luke90 27 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2018 2nd dog
Jon Garside 23 May, 2018 -
Matt Amos 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
ldadams 19 May, 2018 2nd
benw681 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S I was huffing and puffing a bit by the top. After going through the roof at the wrong point/downclimbing/wires falling out, and felt quite dangerous too with somehow all the wrong wires
with Lewis
I was huffing and puffing a bit by the top. After going through the roof at the wrong point/downclimbing/wires falling out, and felt quite dangerous too with somehow all the wrong wires
with Lewis
Hidden 18 May, 2018 Lead O/S
robertmichaellovell 14 May, 2018 Lead
with Doug Sharpe
with Doug Sharpe
Hidden 8 May, 2018 Lead O/S
eel 7 May, 2018 2nd
with Anna
with Anna
J_Spooner 5 May, 2018 Lead
Will Hunt 20 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt It was gripping watching Sam puff up this. Quickdraws were spent by the crux of KG so he belayed and I led through up KG.
It was gripping watching Sam puff up this. Quickdraws were spent by the crux of KG so he belayed and I led through up KG.
Sam Marks 20 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
ollyroberts 17 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Jerome Cooper
with Jerome Cooper
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 5 Jul, 2017 2nd β I went up to Gimmer expecting to love Eastern Hammer, which I did, but I thought Equus outshone it for both position and climbing (albeit of a very different style).
I went up to Gimmer expecting to love Eastern Hammer, which I did, but I thought Equus outshone it for both position and climbing (albeit of a very different style).
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S A lovely route that wanders to all the right places. The climbing in the groove is steady and well protected. The moves in to the groove were tricky with all the wet holds.
A lovely route that wanders to all the right places. The climbing in the groove is steady and well protected. The moves in to the groove were tricky with all the wet holds.
Flavio 1 Jul, 2017 2nd Welsh E3 innit.
Welsh E3 innit.
JendeHoxar 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
tunnah 28 May, 2017 Lead G/U had a go at this maybe 2 month's ago couldt get past the 1st move but found it pretty easy this time
had a go at this maybe 2 month's ago couldt get past the 1st move but found it pretty easy this time
CMoore 28 May, 2017 2nd rpt
Scott Quinn 28 May, 2017 2nd O/S Awesome!!!!
Awesome!!!!
Hidden 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Lakesben 2 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Joe
with Joe
The Grist 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Good fun route. First roof was commiting. Not too bad once I got going.
with Tim Whitaker
Good fun route. First roof was commiting. Not too bad once I got going.
with Tim Whitaker
james1978 22 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Graham Booth 4 Jun, 2016 2nd
Rachel S 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2016 Lead
mrteale 10 May, 2016 Lead O/S Found the gear in the groove very small and fiddly, very apprehensive to climb above it. Made it to the junction with KG but decided to finish up that as my nerves had gone by that point. Kudos to Chris for belaying me while I slowly jittered up it!
with Chris M
Found the gear in the groove very small and fiddly, very apprehensive to climb above it. Made it to the junction with KG but decided to finish up that as my nerves had gone by that point. Kudos to Chris for belaying me while I slowly jittered up it!
with Chris M
Hidden 10 May, 2016 2nd
CMoore 31 Mar, 2016 2nd
with GPN
with GPN
GPN 31 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Ace route! Fairly cold (snow on ledges!), so the first roof felt a little stern!
with CMoore
Ace route! Fairly cold (snow on ledges!), so the first roof felt a little stern!
with CMoore
tjmillen ??, 2016 2nd
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Misha 25 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Felt like steady E2 on second but I could reach the hold over the bulge easily and didn't have to worry about the fiddly gear (most of which is quite good, had to get the nut key out a few times). Good route.
Felt like steady E2 on second but I could reach the hold over the bulge easily and didn't have to worry about the fiddly gear (most of which is quite good, had to get the nut key out a few times). Good route.
Rachel Slater 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Found going over the roof nails, full stretch to fingertips. The groove was weird, you could only ever see one our treetop moves ahead but it was all there. Good route but hard, hard E2!
with Misha
Found going over the roof nails, full stretch to fingertips. The groove was weird, you could only ever see one our treetop moves ahead but it was all there. Good route but hard, hard E2!
with Misha
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Scooter Young ??, 2015 2nd
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden 2 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 2 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with tebs
with tebs
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 2nd
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
WB 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Pagan
with Pagan
Will Hunt 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Gear in the groove is fiddly as sin and didn't trust a lot of it. Steady but absorbing climbing up there. Did the tricky moves to cross left after KG and arrived on the small ledge. Started to rain and looked like it might settle in. Reversed back to KG and finished up that.
Gear in the groove is fiddly as sin and didn't trust a lot of it. Steady but absorbing climbing up there. Did the tricky moves to cross left after KG and arrived on the small ledge. Started to rain and looked like it might settle in. Reversed back to KG and finished up that.
Hidden 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mileshill540 ??, 2014 AltLd
adie84 ??, 2014 -
gforce 10 Aug, 2013 Lead Thought this was a sterner test than Eastern Hammer. Top end E3 in my book! Absolutely brilliant though!
Thought this was a sterner test than Eastern Hammer. Top end E3 in my book! Absolutely brilliant though!
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
JulesV 6 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
AJM 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Excellent route, ace climbing and positions. Definitely done more than one easier E3 in my time though!
with Tubs
Excellent route, ace climbing and positions. Definitely done more than one easier E3 in my time though!
with Tubs
Tubs 5 Jun, 2013 2nd β An excellent and sustained route with a very hard move to get started.
with AJM
An excellent and sustained route with a very hard move to get started.
with AJM
Apharri 31 May, 2013 2nd O/S Amazing, didnt think it was tough for grade though.. Unfortunately got beaten by the weather shortly after
with Dave Wharton
Amazing, didnt think it was tough for grade though.. Unfortunately got beaten by the weather shortly after
with Dave Wharton
captain ??, 2013 -
AlexRenshaw 15 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Thomas Renshaw
with Thomas Renshaw
Andrew Wilson 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S top section after crossing kipling groove at KG crux is rather bold! Prob only 5a but still a massive run out to top.
top section after crossing kipling groove at KG crux is rather bold! Prob only 5a but still a massive run out to top.
andy gittins ??, 2012 -
Nick Sillem ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Paul Figg 1 Oct, 2011 - Commiting start and technical bridging.
Commiting start and technical bridging.
tim newton 26 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
greenroom 13 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Pleased with this one, what a great climb. Walked up to Gimmer and got straight on in the blazing sun.
with Matt Foot
Pleased with this one, what a great climb. Walked up to Gimmer and got straight on in the blazing sun.
with Matt Foot
domskezz ?Jul, 2011 2nd
with Tim Newton
with Tim Newton
Hidden 4 May, 2011 2nd
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S
esther ?May, 2011 Lead
khawk 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with TM
with TM
Ram MkiV 21 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with dad
with dad
mark20 6 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
NickJH ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Dave Parton ??, 2011 -
Pete Graham 29 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Pown
with Pown
Pown 29 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 2nd dog
chris m fisher 26 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Graham
with Graham
S Lynch ??, 2009 -
C coldwell-storry ??, 2009 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
with Neil Chelton
IanJackson 7 Jun, 2008 2nd Took a few goes and a tight rope to pull over the starting roof. pleased i followed the rest of the route fine.
with Robeverybody
Took a few goes and a tight rope to pull over the starting roof. pleased i followed the rest of the route fine.
with Robeverybody
lukehunt 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ian Jackson
with Ian Jackson
Hidden 27 May, 2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 24 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 2007 2nd
ian caton ??, 2007 Lead O/S
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
datoon 10 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with RT
with RT
Hidden 7 Jun, 2005 Lead
SR1970 ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
Si Witcher ??, 2003 AltLd
robbo157 ?Apr, 2002 - Great route
with Bruce Robinson
Great route
with Bruce Robinson
Julian Cooper 1 Jan, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Ian1001 ??, 2000 -
graeme gatherer ??, 2000 -
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Hidden ??, 1999 -
D Tempest 23 May, 1998 Lead
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden ?Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
steveb2006 19 Jul, 1997 Lead
with Rob Gambles
with Rob Gambles
Hidden 19 Jul, 1997 Lead rpt
UKB Shark 9 Jul, 1997 Lead
with Simon Marsh
with Simon Marsh
FATBOYFAT ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Jim Hatfield
with Jim Hatfield
Hidden ?Aug, 1996 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 1996 Lead
with Matt Dickinson
with Matt Dickinson
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?May, 1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
daviesxxx ??, 1995 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30 Oct, 1993 2nd cold & hard
with Nick Ashton
cold & hard
with Nick Ashton
Grezza 3 May, 1993 Lead O/S majestic open route. committing first moves
majestic open route. committing first moves
pauldrew ??, 1993 2nd
with Ian Lewis
with Ian Lewis
rob.grafton 7 Jun, 1992 Lead
with Bruce
with Bruce
Rich Kirby 17 May, 1992 Lead O/S
with Ian Kirby
with Ian Kirby
Steve Crowe 20 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S unseconded
unseconded
Andy Say 18 Aug, 1990 Lead
Neil R 21 Jul, 1990 2nd
with Mark
with Mark
steveb2006 14 Jul, 1990 Lead
with Simon Mee
with Simon Mee
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
uphillnow ?Jun, 1990 Lead O/S A little bold? or insecure moving up groove
with john stanger
A little bold? or insecure moving up groove
with john stanger
Hidden ??, 1990 2nd
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
pete johnson ?Sep, 1989 Lead O/S
with Chris Sloan
with Chris Sloan
Dave Rumney 6 Aug, 1989 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 6 Aug, 1989 2nd
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jun, 1989 Lead
with mr miller
with mr miller
beagly77 ?Jan, 1989 Lead
steve gould ??, 1989 2nd
andybirtwistle 18 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with Steve Roberts, Malcolm Lowerson
with Steve Roberts, Malcolm Lowerson
Dave Musgrove 23 Jul, 1987 2nd
with Rupert Wyard
with Rupert Wyard
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??, 1987 AltLd O/S
Brian Wilderspin 12 Sep, 1986 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Bruce Kerr 15 Jun, 1986 Lead
with Neville Elstone
with Neville Elstone
Pete Wimbush ??, 1985 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 2nd
with Spuz
with Spuz
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1985 Lead
with Nick Keekus
with Nick Keekus
Hidden 20 Jul, 1984 Lead
tmawer 17 Jul, 1984 Lead O/S
with Dave Absalom
with Dave Absalom
Neil McA 18 Jun, 1984 Lead O/S
with Paddy Gaunt
with Paddy Gaunt
Hidden 6 May, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Hidden 13 Aug, 1983 Lead
redjerry ?May, 1983 Lead O/S
with Duncan McCallum
with Duncan McCallum
Bob 28 Aug, 1982 2nd
with E. Cleasby
with E. Cleasby
Mark Kemball 29 May, 1982 2nd
with Chris Calow
with Chris Calow
Ian Carr 28 May, 1982 -
with Mike Chapman
with Mike Chapman
Dave Musgrove 31 Aug, 1981 AltLd
Hammy 30 May, 1981 2nd
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden 21 May, 1977 Lead
Hidden ??, 1976 Lead
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set