1000m.

Rockfax Description
Once considered the hardest via ferrata in the Dolomites, Tomaselli is one of the jewels of the Ampezzo valley. The situation is dramatic and the views from the summit are superb, particularly on clear days when climbers on the nearby ferrata Giovanni Lipella can easily be seen. The rock is solid, the route technically demanding and, best of all, the summit can only be accessed by the via ferrata, lending a sense of achievement and a guilty elitism to the whole affair. The descent involves another short via ferrata before leading you into a steep scree gully which can be unpleasant when busy. It is worth taking a headtorch to explore the numerous interesting tunnels and war remains both on the approach and descent of this route, although you won't need one for the route itself.
Approach - From Cortina, take the SS48 to the west following signs for the Falzarego Pass (2117m). There is ample parking at the Lagazuoi cable. From here, take the cable car then descend path 20 towards Rifugio Scotoni. On reaching the junction, branch right onto path 20 b (marked 1020 on old Tabacco maps) and continue past remains of the First World War. Contour under the rock face to reach the site of the former Bivacco della Chiesa, decommissioned in 2014 but still marked on many maps. From here a short walk leads to the start of the ferrata.
VF - The route begins with an traverse left, then the wire continues more vertically. Where the wire ends, continue up a short and loose gully with ring stemples. Then follow the well-worn path which wends through the scree (possible escape route down a gully back to path 20 b ). The path narrows considerably and is protected by wire in the most exposed sections. Where the wire forks, go right and continue vertically until reaching the characteristic exposed slab to the summit.
Descent - The descent requires the down climbing of another short ferrata. Follow the wire from the summit to the north east and descend for around 40 minutes. Continue down a loose gully to reach Forcella Grande. From here, join the path 20 b and either, retrace your steps past the Bivacco della Chiesa, or continue south to Forcella Travenanzes, joining onto path 402 to walk back to the bottom of the cable car © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
of ascent, 300m of VF. A difficult and sustained route leading to the summit of Punta Sud (2980m). The finale is tremdous and very exposed. The descent isn't easy either, being rated 3C in it's own right

Ticklists

Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 24 Sep - Grade 4 at the most. Very nice though. 70 minutes up.
with Jane
Grade 4 at the most. Very nice though. 70 minutes up.
with Jane
Dilwat 18 Sep -
with Pete, Tony P, SurferStan
with Pete, Tony P, SurferStan
Hidden 11 Sep -
Hidden 11 Sep -
laurarjhowe 5 Sep -
katia Tastagh 5 Sep -
KaTTabra 5 Aug Lead O/S
JayAsh 23 Jul -
with Maciej
with Maciej
alastairbegley 14 Jul Solo Second half was fantastic. Walked in from valley in 2 hrs. http://mp-m.uk/IL1tj
Second half was fantastic. Walked in from valley in 2 hrs. http://mp-m.uk/IL1tj
gingerbex 14 Jul Solo O/S
Hidden 6 Jul Solo
Handsforfeet 6 Jul Solo Really enjoyable; fun climbing and beautiful mountain scenery. Really enjoyed the walk in.Up to my waste in snow at times!
Really enjoyable; fun climbing and beautiful mountain scenery. Really enjoyed the walk in.Up to my waste in snow at times!
jlismore 24 Jun Solo
sallygal29 18 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Chris Manasseh 2 Sep, 2018 - In the wet until towards the end when I broke through clearing clouds to get the amazing finish in full sun. Had to use the cable for the initial traverse and a pin for one move a bit higher, otherwise all free.
In the wet until towards the end when I broke through clearing clouds to get the amazing finish in full sun. Had to use the cable for the initial traverse and a pin for one move a bit higher, otherwise all free.
tsl42 26 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jacob Greenhow, Dammage
with Jacob Greenhow, Dammage
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 7 Jul, 2018 Solo
Lady Vee 22 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Nice route. Quite exposed in places and steep most of the way. Not advised for those with no prior experience on rock as some technical moves needed at certain points to avoid hanging on the wire. Would say this was hard for a VF4C. More lower grade rock climbing than scrambling. Brilliant day out!
Nice route. Quite exposed in places and steep most of the way. Not advised for those with no prior experience on rock as some technical moves needed at certain points to avoid hanging on the wire. Would say this was hard for a VF4C. More lower grade rock climbing than scrambling. Brilliant day out!
Chuck 15 Jun, 2018 -
with Carrie Craig
with Carrie Craig
Chuck 17 Sep, 2017 -
with Carrie Craig
with Carrie Craig
Karlos 14 Sep, 2017 -
bummingham 14 Sep, 2017 Solo O/S Hard (after a week of big routes), lots of cable hauling. A small rock fall at the start spiced things up. the final slab is airy, unfortunately the cloud (and wind) was in so there were no views. Nice walk in and out. Final descent down WW1 tunnels.
with Joel Taylor, Julie Taylor, Karlos
Hard (after a week of big routes), lots of cable hauling. A small rock fall at the start spiced things up. the final slab is airy, unfortunately the cloud (and wind) was in so there were no views. Nice walk in and out. Final descent down WW1 tunnels.
with Joel Taylor, Julie Taylor, Karlos
AndreaPeintner 24 Aug, 2017 -
mollymcleod 24 Aug, 2017 - hard 3 hr walk in, hard 2 hr VF up, summiting (2980m) at 5.30pm with a long way down... but a beautiful descent at dusk. More like grade 5
with Ekaterina Kovacheva, AndreaPeintner
hard 3 hr walk in, hard 2 hr VF up, summiting (2980m) at 5.30pm with a long way down... but a beautiful descent at dusk. More like grade 5
with Ekaterina Kovacheva, AndreaPeintner
Hidden 23 Sep, 2016 -
Giles Eperon 23 Sep, 2016 - So good! Totally awesome view and steep excellent VF, with some legitimate corner climbing.
So good! Totally awesome view and steep excellent VF, with some legitimate corner climbing.
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 -
JulianD 9 Sep, 2016 Solo
with Paul B, David H
with Paul B, David H
Tim Harper 7 Sep, 2016 Solo
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 -
benny_m 4 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 8 Oct, 2015 -
roryj 25 Sep, 2015 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2015 -
timmyhobby 31 Aug, 2015 - 20h 40 from the lift to the top and then back down to the van
20h 40 from the lift to the top and then back down to the van
theclarkes 22 Jul, 2015 - An outstanding ferrata. Not sure why the website has this as 4C as it is certainly a grade harder than Delle Trenche. Other voters seem to agree it is an 'easy to medium' grade 5.
An outstanding ferrata. Not sure why the website has this as 4C as it is certainly a grade harder than Delle Trenche. Other voters seem to agree it is an 'easy to medium' grade 5.
purplemushroom 27 Sep, 2014 -
yelotango 28 Aug, 2014 Solo
hazeysunshine 21 Aug, 2014 -
with Sharon, Cristina
with Sharon, Cristina
Cheese Monkey 9 Aug, 2013 Solo Very big thunderstorm on summit, didn't even stop for a photo just got off fast
Very big thunderstorm on summit, didn't even stop for a photo just got off fast
Paul ablitt 1 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Hidden 15 Jul, 2013 -
Hidden 15 Jul, 2013 -
colinthrelfall 6 Sep, 2012 -
with Gordon, Neal
with Gordon, Neal
Hidden 14 Aug, 2012 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S
sarahlizzy 6 Aug, 2012 - Fantastic via ferrata. Bit polished at the start, which can make the nose traverse a bit slippery.
with syv_k
Fantastic via ferrata. Bit polished at the start, which can make the nose traverse a bit slippery.
with syv_k
Pete Pozman 25 Jul, 2012 -
with John Byrne, Pete Crosby
with John Byrne, Pete Crosby
Swotson 18 Jul, 2012 - Long & fun with a steep exposed slab to finish.
with Ian Athroll
Long & fun with a steep exposed slab to finish.
with Ian Athroll
Jörmungandr 9 Sep, 2011 - Grade 5C. Wicked wicked VF! Brilliant :-)
with Justin Thomas, Dave Spencer
Grade 5C. Wicked wicked VF! Brilliant :-)
with Justin Thomas, Dave Spencer
seanyt ?Aug, 2010 Solo
Hidden 11 Jul, 2010 -
Hidden 31 Jul, 2009 Solo
Hidden 16 Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2008 -
Hidden 31 Aug, 2008 -
Hidden 12 Aug, 2008 -
SebCa 10 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Ian Gardner
with Ian Gardner
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Graham Iles 10 Sep, 2006 -
with Jo
with Jo
ElShalimo ?Sep, 2006 -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2006 -
Martin Bennett 19 Jul, 2006 -
with Tony Mitchell, AlanB, Magi
with Tony Mitchell, AlanB, Magi
riddle ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
Swirly ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
with Rich
with Rich
crossdressingrodney 17 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 17 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 9 Sep, 2001 - My first VF! Naively took along a pair of fires (used for part) and a chalkbag (which stayed in the sac). Very cold, particularly in comparison to Finale
with Sam & Colletts
My first VF! Naively took along a pair of fires (used for part) and a chalkbag (which stayed in the sac). Very cold, particularly in comparison to Finale
with Sam & Colletts
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Voting
High VF5D
Mid VF5D
Low VF5D
High VF5C
Mid VF5C
Low VF5C
High VF5B
Mid VF5B
Low VF5B
High VF5A
Mid VF5A
Low VF5A
High VF4D
Mid VF4D
Low VF4D
High VF4C
Mid VF4C
Low VF4C
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set