UKC Logbook - 'Punta Anna (VF)'

Rockfax Description
This superb collection of several via ferrata follows a ridge system north from Rifugio Pomedes, over the top of Punta Anna and to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244m), the third highest peak in the Dolomites.
Approach from Rifugio Pomedes to the VF - From Rifugio Pomedes, follow a well-marked track uphill signed to 'Punta Anna'. Ten minutes of switchbacks brings you to the start of the wire.
VF - The route begins steeply before a traverse out left gives you the first impression of the good exposure to come. Good varied climbing on the wire is interspersed with easier unprotected scrambling up to the summit of Punta Anna. From the summit, the route heads north following the ridge-line, with cairns and arrows to mark the way. Continue past the signed path leading off left down to 'Rifugio Giussani' (possible escape route) continue along the ridge until a second junction is reached. 'Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri' is signed off to the right and this provides the second possible escape route down to Rifugio Ra Valles and the cable car mid station.
To continue, turn left and follow the subsequent ridge-line eventually passing a ladder that provides aid through a difficult section. This leads to an exposed ledge and traverse on the west side of Torrione Gianni. From here there is an optional out and back ascent of Torri Gianni itself which is worth doing if you have the time (and energy). Be aware of potential traffic jams here on a busy day.
To continue the route, follow the traverse around the corner, with some fantastic exposure, until a further ledge allows you to down climb the col of the Bus de Tofana. There is another possible escape route here by passing through the giant rock window in a westerly direction, following a steep scree slope to Rifugio Giussani. It is worth descending slightly from the Bus de Tofana to view the rock window, a descent through which is a popular ski touring itinerary in the winter.
To continue, cross over to the opposite side (northwest) of the Bus de Tofana and follow the path through a not-so-scenic series of avalanche barriers (there are plans to divert the path around these in the future). Further climbing, passing several ladders and exposed ledges, leads to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244m).
It is common to end the route here using the descent options described opposite, however, for those masochists who want more, descend 50m or so towards and the cable car station and follow as for Lamon/Formenton - see opposite.
Descent - There are numerous escape options as detailed in the route description, but most people end the route at either the summit of Tofana di Mezzo or from Rifugio Ra Valles.
From the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (see overview on page 368) - To return to Rifugio Dibona, retrace your steps back to the Bus de Tofana. Pass through the rock window heading west down steep scree towards Rifugio Giussani. Join path 403 below the rifugio near the now abandoned Rifugio Cantore and all the way back to the well-signed 'Rifugio Dibona'.
To return to Rifugio Pietofana, descend north from the summit to the Freccia nel Cielo top cable car station. Descend this to Rifugio Col Drusciè (the second cable car stop). From here a large track leads southwest back to Rifugio Pietofana in around 10 minutes.
From Rifugio Ra Valles - To return to Rifugio Dibona take path 407 uphill to the southwest. The ascent feels very tiring at this point despite there only being just over 100m of height gain. Before the top of the chairlift, follow the path as it branches off left to descend the well-marked Sentiero Giuseppe Olivieri protected path. This leads down to Rifugio Pomedes and path 421 which you descend to Rifugio Dibona and a well-earned rest.
To return to Rifugio Pietofana take the cable car down to Col Drusciè (the first cable car stop). From here a large track leads southwest back to Rifugio Pietofana in around 10 minutes © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route which can be climbed entirely on the rock. Can be done on its own or combined with VF Gianni Aglio to reach the summit of Tofana di Mezzo - a total ascent of 1200m and 800m of VF.

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Big Routes , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites 2019 , Dolomites

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User	Date		Notes
rentaghost	21 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Route now seems to go through the window at Bus di Tofana (west to east) then up a couple of sturdy new looking ladders. No signs of the Avalanche paraphernalia mentioned in the Ciccerone guidebook so I think new wires have now been put in, as the book suggested might happen	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Route now seems to go through the window at Bus di Tofana (west to east) then up a couple of sturdy new looking ladders. No signs of the Avalanche paraphernalia mentioned in the Ciccerone guidebook so I think new wires have now been put in, as the book suggested might happen
Pottsy84	16 Sep, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Odd that the Rockfax description here covers VF Guiseppe Olivieri (not to be confused with the sentiero of the same name nearby) and VF Gianni Aglio, but Gianni Aglio has a separate entry and the UKC description here covers only Punta Anna (Olivieri). Hey ho. I don’t know if the route has now been diverted, but I didn’t see any avalanche barriers. Using the Cicerone guide did cause some confusion at Bus de Tofana - it described heading north from rock window descent point across broken ground with said barriers and regular snow field, and the very obvious Tofana di Mezzo is straight north from there across broken ground with lots of snow - I almost dropped down onto the scree and headed that way. The route actually goes left through the pass then immediately right around the head of a gully, temporarily out of sight of Tofana itself.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Odd that the Rockfax description here covers VF Guiseppe Olivieri (not to be confused with the sentiero of the same name nearby) and VF Gianni Aglio, but Gianni Aglio has a separate entry and the UKC description here covers only Punta Anna (Olivieri). Hey ho. I don’t know if the route has now been diverted, but I didn’t see any avalanche barriers. Using the Cicerone guide did cause some confusion at Bus de Tofana - it described heading north from rock window descent point across broken ground with said barriers and regular snow field, and the very obvious Tofana di Mezzo is straight north from there across broken ground with lots of snow - I almost dropped down onto the scree and headed that way. The route actually goes left through the pass then immediately right around the head of a gully, temporarily out of sight of Tofana itself.
freeheel47	13 Jul, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Grading very odd on Via Ferrata. This is supposed to be harder technically than Alpini / Col de Bois. It isn’t. But it certainly is more serious especially given the descents. We went down towards Rif Guissani. From Punta Anna continue quite a way along the ridge following the red paint. Ignore the tempting looking ledges to the left. There are further cables which eventually lead to the screes below Bus Tofana. Returning to Rif Pomedes along Senteneri Astraldi is fun. Starting from Rif Pomedes means that the approach is by chair lift then about 10 mins walk. All cables intact. Apparently as of yesterday still some snow on the continuation to the Tofana itself.
Show beta βeta: Grading very odd on Via Ferrata. This is supposed to be harder technically than Alpini / Col de Bois. It isn’t. But it certainly is more serious especially given the descents. We went down towards Rif Guissani. From Punta Anna continue quite a way along the ridge following the red paint. Ignore the tempting looking ledges to the left. There are further cables which eventually lead to the screes below Bus Tofana. Returning to Rif Pomedes along Senteneri Astraldi is fun. Starting from Rif Pomedes means that the approach is by chair lift then about 10 mins walk. All cables intact. Apparently as of yesterday still some snow on the continuation to the Tofana itself.
ptp	4 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Excellent route. Climbed today. Wire broken on exposed arête about quarter of the way up leaving c 3m to free climb with no wire protection, recommend you have some slings or rope and a confident lead as a fall would be terminal. It’s been reported to local guides, so likely to be fixed soon.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Excellent route. Climbed today. Wire broken on exposed arête about quarter of the way up leaving c 3m to free climb with no wire protection, recommend you have some slings or rope and a confident lead as a fall would be terminal. It’s been reported to local guides, so likely to be fixed soon.
lazza	17 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Amazing VF.! Great exposure and magnificent views all the way. Didn’t like the scree slope back down through the rock window though. A great and memorable day out.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Amazing VF.! Great exposure and magnificent views all the way. Didn’t like the scree slope back down through the rock window though. A great and memorable day out.