500m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Contrary to its name, the route is situated just right of the 'curved chimney' up a large spur. Initially it is a little scrappy and dirty, but the rock improves and the section under the roof is particularly enjoyable.
Start at the base of the left-hand of two prominent chimneys, at the highest point of a short scree ramp.
1) IV, 25m. Climb the short corner, which forms the first part of the chimney, to a good stance above a chockstone.
2) IV, 30m. Exit right from the chimney, and follow a ramp to a short corner. Climb this, then ignore the crack above and move right to a comfortable stance.
3) II, 35m. Follow easy ground right.
4) II, 25m. Continue in the same line on vegetated rock.
5) I, 45m. Follow a grassy ramp on the arete to a good stance.
6) IV-, 30m. Move left to enter a short chimney, and follow this slightly right to a stance below a crack.
7) IV-, 40m. Climb the crack direct then move left.
8) III+, 30m. Follow the continuation crack back right to the arete, below a short corner and a roof.
9) IV, 25m. Ignore the corner and instead climb to its left (be careful to avoid rope drag). Circumvent a crack to the side of the roof on its left then move back right to a good stance.
10) IV, 15m. Climb a short crack on good holds.
11) IV-, 40m. Continue direct to reach a ledge. Cross this and climb the face above to a stance below a corner.
12) IV, 20m. Climb a couple of metres up the corner then exit left then move back into the large chimney. Climb this to a stance on pegs.
13) IV+, 30m. Continue up the chimney, with sustained climbing, then exit right up a prominent crack to a large cave.
14) III+, 50m. Exit the cave left, pass through a tunnel, then continue up easier but loose ground to the saddle. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A scrappy route, taking the buttress to the left of Old South

Edit: - The climb starts from the RIGHT HAND CHIMNEY, past 2 pegs

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
SophieWalker 14 Aug 2nd Amazing route, especially into the cave and out of the tunnel! Enjoyable walk in and out too
Amazing route, especially into the cave and out of the tunnel! Enjoyable walk in and out too
roym 14 Aug AltLd O/S
Tom Fullen 14 Aug AltLd O/S Worth it all just for the last two pitches. I love chimneys. We didn’t find it scrappy at all. The rock was as solid as all the other rock in the Dolomites i.e sometimes a bit loose
Worth it all just for the last two pitches. I love chimneys. We didn’t find it scrappy at all. The rock was as solid as all the other rock in the Dolomites i.e sometimes a bit loose
ladislav 9 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf Led odd-numbered pitches. Got stuck on pitch 9, then the thunderstorm arrived several hours early. We also suffered route-finding problems, possibly due to using the belay from the adjacent sport route after pitch 2.
with Andy
Led odd-numbered pitches. Got stuck on pitch 9, then the thunderstorm arrived several hours early. We also suffered route-finding problems, possibly due to using the belay from the adjacent sport route after pitch 2.
with Andy
lithos 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd start from RH chimney . got a bit lost on the easy stuff. The crux chimney is excellent fun and the cave is mad. Exit from the cave and climb back above it, to the scree
with Puma
start from RH chimney . got a bit lost on the easy stuff. The crux chimney is excellent fun and the cave is mad. Exit from the cave and climb back above it, to the scree
with Puma
Puma 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
Ccmilree 22 Aug, 2017 2nd
justaddpowder 22 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Started late (1200) and bailed after first pitch due to lack of time.
Started late (1200) and bailed after first pitch due to lack of time.
rossunitt 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U
daveclarke5 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Stephen
with Stephen
Hidden 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Chris the Tall ?Aug, 2003 AltLd dnf Part 1 of the muppet show - had planned to do Old South and abandoned after 4 rubbish pitches when we realised we'd gone wrong
with Adam
Part 1 of the muppet show - had planned to do Old South and abandoned after 4 rubbish pitches when we realised we'd gone wrong
with Adam
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set