250m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The classic route on the south side of Sass Pordoi. An excellent route at the grade. Don't be put off by the super-polished first move off the ground! Take your time with it or, if all else fails, stand on your friend's shoulders. The climbing is easier above and the final mantelshelf over the cable car wall provides an interesting finish.
Start in a chimney-gully directly below the right corner of the roof by a leaning yellow pillar on the right.
1) IV, 20m. Climb the chimney-gully which has a very polished start, particularly for the feet (slightly less polished alternative on grey rock to the left). Continue to a good stance - be careful you don't dislodge stones onto climbers below.
2) IV+, 40m. Climb direct then follow a crack on good holds to reach the face, and climb this towards a large ledge above.
3) IV, 45m. Climb the orange crack above the belay direct on slightly friable rock for 5m then move left. Cut back right following some ramps and passing an intermediate stance. Continue right, following the natural ramp of the rock to a stance below the right edge of the roof.
4) IV, 10m. Move up and right around the edge of the roof then make a short traverse right. Step up to a stance in a small niche round the corner, left of the gully which separates the subsidiary and main towers.
5) III, 50m. Traverse easily rightwards following the ledge then climb the wall to the left of the gully. Cut across easily on loose rock to a block/pillar on the right of the gully, next to the main wall. Belay on a thread. The Piaz Arete joins here.
6) IV, 35m. Step over from the block to the right wall then traverse right past a cemented ring. Follow polished yet good rock right, making a rising traverse on good holds. Pull through a little niche to a good ledge.
7) IV, 25m. Step right and move around a short wall to a scoop. Climb the scoop on good pockets then move left to belay below a chimney on two excellent threads.
8) IV, 25m. Climb a chimney direct to reach the plateau with a large cemented peg.
9) 100m, III. Move left of the tower in front to a thread belay below a chimney. Either climb the chimney (harder at IV-), or traverse left for 5m to a black water-worn section of rock and climb this easily to a bowl on the left side of the cable car station. Follow this up right onto a chossy ridge, following wire from the cable car station, then keep right to reach the station itself. It is possible to finish either to the left or the right of the cable car station (you have to climb over the wall in either case). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular classic with mostlty in-situ belays. Very exposed, but finshes at the refuge/lift station

Piaz & Dezulian

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
badgerjockey 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Possibly the route of the trip. First six pitches all constantly good climbing before megachoss kicks in. The last runner of the trip was the cable car station... Tickets are only sold in the bar oddly. If following the book you need to pass a belay ring on P3 and P6. Also the description doesn’t match the topo of P4. Definitely don’t be tempted to go up the gulley/chimney 10m into P6 but instead keep going right and up, and from the niche with the threads/peg pull around the right edge and up to the bolt belay ledge. For P7 go up 15m until a choss ledge and find the two excellent threads 10m to the left, some 6m right of the upper gulley/chimney forming P8. Flocks of Snow buntings and some very cheeky alpine choughs.
with k_k
Possibly the route of the trip. First six pitches all constantly good climbing before megachoss kicks in. The last runner of the trip was the cable car station... Tickets are only sold in the bar oddly. If following the book you need to pass a belay ring on P3 and P6. Also the description doesn’t match the topo of P4. Definitely don’t be tempted to go up the gulley/chimney 10m into P6 but instead keep going right and up, and from the niche with the threads/peg pull around the right edge and up to the bolt belay ledge. For P7 go up 15m until a choss ledge and find the two excellent threads 10m to the left, some 6m right of the upper gulley/chimney forming P8. Flocks of Snow buntings and some very cheeky alpine choughs.
with k_k
XAPortela 3 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf Abseiled from belay #4 due to rain and hail
Abseiled from belay #4 due to rain and hail
Hidden 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
ladislav 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led odd-numbered pitches; finished route in 6hrs 20, losing some time to route-finding problems. Hung on the rope once to remove a stuck cam.
with Andy
Led odd-numbered pitches; finished route in 6hrs 20, losing some time to route-finding problems. Hung on the rope once to remove a stuck cam.
with Andy
Hidden 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lots of good pitches - especially the first 3 unto the overhang on the pillar. Wish more routes finished at a cafe!
Lots of good pitches - especially the first 3 unto the overhang on the pillar. Wish more routes finished at a cafe!
David Horwood 14 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 Lead
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2018 Lead Great route
with David Horwood
Great route
with David Horwood
Steve Bartle 22 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Best climb of the week. Moved together on the final choss section and made the cable car down with 7mins to spare
Best climb of the week. Moved together on the final choss section and made the cable car down with 7mins to spare
danieleaston 22 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led 1,3,5,7&8,(ish) got a bit confusing in the later stages, climbed a bit of a variation straight up after short traverse on p6 through several excellent steep juggy sections. I really enjoyed the 45m rising ramp on p3. Finished with 7 minutes to spare!
Led 1,3,5,7&8,(ish) got a bit confusing in the later stages, climbed a bit of a variation straight up after short traverse on p6 through several excellent steep juggy sections. I really enjoyed the 45m rising ramp on p3. Finished with 7 minutes to spare!
Chuck 19 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Carrie Craig
with Carrie Craig
Lauradavies23 3 Aug, 2017 2nd
mikecollins 3 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
paul horabin 1 Aug, 2017 Lead
froglette 11 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Tim Cooper
with Tim Cooper
daveclarke5 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Stephen
with Stephen
TimKnight 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Gawyllie 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Alan Sewl
with Alan Sewl
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 2nd
mes32 14 Sep, 2016 Lead
David Stevens 6 Sep, 2016 Lead
Steph Mitchell 6 Sep, 2016 2nd
Goran Glumac 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Nice route
Nice route
Hidden 3 Aug, 2016 Lead
rgd1977 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Awful steep walk in, good route but quite a lot of loose rock, accidentally went off route up a much harder line and had twenty minutes to spare for the cable car down, which is the best decent ever!
Awful steep walk in, good route but quite a lot of loose rock, accidentally went off route up a much harder line and had twenty minutes to spare for the cable car down, which is the best decent ever!
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 30 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
PPP 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Hidden
with Hidden
Hidden 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
SarahA 7 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
with Duncan Livesey, lcullum7
with Duncan Livesey, lcullum7
lcullum7 7 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S There's a new bolt on pitch six, makes the yellow overhang step much easier
with Luca Gasparini
There's a new bolt on pitch six, makes the yellow overhang step much easier
with Luca Gasparini
tcn_2002 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd
jameslam ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 12 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf
p.j.deacon 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Beautiful line, popular route with some rockfall.
Beautiful line, popular route with some rockfall.
beardy mike 24 Aug, 2013 Lead
katherinesydney 24 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S some fantastic positions and the top-out, pulling around the lift station structure, wins the prize for most posey finish. it would be nice if guides didn't think it was acceptable to snap at your heels and climb over your ropes, after having already asked them if they want to go first, though!
some fantastic positions and the top-out, pulling around the lift station structure, wins the prize for most posey finish. it would be nice if guides didn't think it was acceptable to snap at your heels and climb over your ropes, after having already asked them if they want to go first, though!
Roger Cruse 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Kris
with Kris
Louvet 16 Aug, 2013 -
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
Tarquin 16 Aug, 2013 -
with Louvet, Jockey
with Louvet, Jockey
bridget143 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route, if you are behind another party then beware of falling rocks (early start is clever). Got hit by hail stones on the top section so we were very glad that the lift was so handy!! I only let some easy pitches.
with Simen
Great route, if you are behind another party then beware of falling rocks (early start is clever). Got hit by hail stones on the top section so we were very glad that the lift was so handy!! I only let some easy pitches.
with Simen
Marq 24 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Followed up the route by JP and JR. Nice route
with Helen C (LMC)
Followed up the route by JP and JR. Nice route
with Helen C (LMC)
Hidden 24 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
hubereini 12 Jul, 2012 AltLd slightly off route on pitch 7 as traversed too far to the right, excellent route and fun top out on the terrace.
with posch
slightly off route on pitch 7 as traversed too far to the right, excellent route and fun top out on the terrace.
with posch
timofy 22 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 25 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Fiona Reid 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd Led even pitches, great route, great situation, the first few moves of pitch 1 are not 3+! they are a polished abomination and not funny with a sack on! Topping out at the cable car gets you some odd looks.
Led even pitches, great route, great situation, the first few moves of pitch 1 are not 3+! they are a polished abomination and not funny with a sack on! Topping out at the cable car gets you some odd looks.
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Doby 26 Jul, 2010 2nd dog Struggled to get off the ground and needed assistance of others to do so. Managed crux move on second pitch on 3rd attempt. Did rest cleanly apart from 8th pitch where pulled up on what seemed like a bomber hold but came off in my hands when pulled up on it resulting in a bruised knee, me dangling in the air and other climbers narrowly avoiding being hit. Great route, ace top out, very cold rock (had hot aches) and according to time top out photo was taken we had 18 minutes before last cable car down! A little close for comfort
with Michael
Struggled to get off the ground and needed assistance of others to do so. Managed crux move on second pitch on 3rd attempt. Did rest cleanly apart from 8th pitch where pulled up on what seemed like a bomber hold but came off in my hands when pulled up on it resulting in a bruised knee, me dangling in the air and other climbers narrowly avoiding being hit. Great route, ace top out, very cold rock (had hot aches) and according to time top out photo was taken we had 18 minutes before last cable car down! A little close for comfort
with Michael
Hidden 26 Jul, 2010 Lead
JLS 22 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Jacqui
with Jacqui
Rosie Hutchins 30 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with ripper
with ripper
ripper 30 Jun, 2010 Lead Led all but one pitch, some route-finding difficulties (including starting on the wrong line!)
with Rosie
Led all but one pitch, some route-finding difficulties (including starting on the wrong line!)
with Rosie
Hidden 6 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 10 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Via maria-I lead pitches 1,3,5,7 and 9. Pitch 7 was a fantastic bit of climbing. moved together on last section which had far too much fixed gear do they really need a fence by the cable car? ;)
Via maria-I lead pitches 1,3,5,7 and 9. Pitch 7 was a fantastic bit of climbing. moved together on last section which had far too much fixed gear do they really need a fence by the cable car? ;)
Hidden 7 Jul, 2008 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Tarquin ??, 2008 AltLd
Rory Shaw ?Sep, 2006 -
manmike ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Last 3 pitches in hail, rain, thunderstorm. A cracking epic.
with dan
Last 3 pitches in hail, rain, thunderstorm. A cracking epic.
with dan
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 2nd
Tarquin ??, 2006 -
Bob M ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
with Dan Lyness, carolyn lyness
with Dan Lyness, carolyn lyness
Hidden 1 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
auld al ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 2001 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
Hidden ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
Rob Davies 9 Aug, 1987 Lead dnf P1 & p2 only, then it began to rain and we retreated
with Mike Papworth
P1 & p2 only, then it began to rain and we retreated
with Mike Papworth
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set