Rockfax Description
A great route and one of the more popular lines in the Easter Island Gully Area. Start below a groove, just where the rock becomes steep, blank and much harder to traverse.
1) 5b, 15m. Head up into the corner above until some quartz holds lead rightwards around the arete. Strenuous moves up a small groove lead to a small ledge and belay on the right.
2) 5b, 35m. Climb the groove above the belay, until it turns into a crack. Follow the steep crack via some sustained climbing to belay in a niche just below the top and some short cracks.
3) 30m. Climb up the cracks to a belay. Then scramble over the grassy slopes to reach the racking-up spot. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A contender for the best E1 at Gogarth

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

LDudill 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Me p1, pretty cool position and steady climbing, Ewan p2, felt harder I think but it was a little wet from rain! Well protected though. Then multi grassy pitches out which was terrifying due to the rain! Lol. Classic gogarth

with Kelly campbell, Ewan
Ewan Russell 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S


with Kelly, Luke
Robb Bert 18/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
with Nicky
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
beagly77 ??/2017 -
bwestwood 29/Aug/16 AltLd
Lakesben 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Super well protected. Sustained 5b climbing, felt hard but perhaps my arms were tired.

with Mark
jsmcfarland ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

First pitch a little hard, unprotected and quite scary. Second pitch even harder but better protected. **** climbing! : ) Overall hard for E1 I thought

with Robert
DaveThexton 21/Jul/16 AltLd
with Tom
Hidden 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/16 -
Hidden 25/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
KeenClimber 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Ron
robpartridge ?/Jun/16 2nd
with Alex Z, Tom Nichols
Sardien 15/May/16 Lead dog

Led P1, I cant believe I am only the second person to have dogged this route but apparently so according to UKC. Found this very good but hard and sustained with not too much gear on P1. A whimpery tumble coming around the arete and a rest higher up on the first pitch were needed. Maybe try again when my head is stronger!

saintlade ??/2016 -
ABCD ??/2016 AltLd O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
adie84 ??/2016 -
Hidden 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

pitch 2

Davesmith1981 27/Aug/15 AltLd
with duncan darnell
theotherpetehill 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
chrisallan 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Chris_barr 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S


Albachoss 26/Jun/15 Lead dog

Fantastic route

with Dougie
dswansonlow 26/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

Felt much easier than last time

with Alex Banks
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
John sealey 14/Jun/15 AltLd
with Peter morgan
wi11 14/Jun/15 2nd β
with Mike P, Elfyn
guy757 23/May/15 -
Martin Cooper ?/May/15 AltLd

BMC meet I led P2

with Richard Cussen
Rachel Slater 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch one. Nice end to the day.

with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 22/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
benkelsey 10/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Cheeky day drip to the G - Interesting abs and a quality romp on pitch one (good lead from Shaun into the Unknown). Broke a hold on P2 and the groove/flake very wet but with good gear.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 10/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 & 3, 2nd pitch was fairly wet! Top route!

lanky 01/Sep/14 AltLd
with Crook
Hidden 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S
redshapedfriday 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Harris, Owen Pearce
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd
Mattlamb90 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Did p1

with Luke
luke384 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with matty
Luxulyan 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
maria85 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2, or at least where I thought P2 went... not entirely convinced we were in the right place!

with Robin, Steve
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
dswansonlow 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

All in one pitch. I thought this felt pretty tricky adventurous for E1

shed_hed 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Started on this. Felt much harder than Quartz icicle and I didn't enjoy it as much.

mike mo ??/2014 -
owain86 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P1, good route

with Johnny
WB 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Rachel S 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches.

with Nik
Nik Jennings 14/Aug/12 2nd
with Rachel
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Lenny 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Stonkin' route!

Graeme Hammond 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent, led pitch 2 (WHAT A PITCH !!) Both pitches are given 5b though the 1st seemed harder/steeper and with less gear to me.

with Jim
tebs 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Great adventure getting to and climbing this. Rookie error not taking guidebook down with us - we were aiming for the E3 further right. In the end it was 1 and a half great pitches of rock followed by one and a half great pitches of steep vegetation. Classic.

with Jon
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
david morse 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

very good. a contender for the best E1 at the big G, but not as good as northwest passage in my opinion...

with andy+will
willoates 08/Aug/10 AltLd

Really nice line and climbing

schof 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
msoldn 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

sweet, sweet, sweet climbing

with Mark
CarolineH 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Bristoldave 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/10 AltLd
pauldrew 09/May/10 Lead
with Kevin Sales
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Dave Rumney 02/Aug/09 AltLd
with Sean Roberts
A Crook 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
mux 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Adam
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Kat Spinney
Owain Llewelyn 31/May/08 Lead
with Dad
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Will1 ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Oct/07 AltLd
GPN ?/Jul/07 2nd
frost ?/May/06 AltLd
with N Griffiths
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
jgordon75 ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Luke Foulger
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with Jim Barradale
nige ??/2003 AltLd
with jim hewson
Hidden ??/2003 -
NeilGriffiths 11/May/02 AltLd

Fantastic rock

with Simon Frost
Hidden 06/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/01 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 13/May/00 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
PaulTanton ??/1999 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 02/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
phardman 24/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Jon Bibby
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Mar/97 AltLd
with Jon Sykes
switch ??/1997 Lead O/S
michael burrows 21/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with john roberts
Hidden 06/May/96 AltLd
charlesmfrench 22/May/95 AltLd O/S


with Robin, Dave McGimpsey
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Budge ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 21/Aug/94 -
with SF
D Tempest 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
with Rick
Andy Say 02/May/93 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/93 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Neil Molnar
Hidden 06/Apr/88 2nd
uphillnow 24/Oct/85 Lead
with kate harper, Brian barker
GuyM ??/1985 -
mikej 06/Oct/84 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 25/Aug/83 Lead
Hidden 21/May/83 Lead
Bruce Kerr 05/Apr/82 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/81 AltLd O/S
Steve Lewis 18/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
Hidden 08/Jul/79 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/78 AltLd
71 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set