UKC

Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite

Faces W

gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Stack Wall
2 Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 3
3 Pawn HS 4b 1
4 Rock Return VS 4c 1
5 End Game
-
VS 4c 11
6 Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c * 8
7 Pulling for Two E6 6b ** 3
8 Talking Heads E2 5b ** 92
9 Nice 'n Sleazy E1 5a * 60
10 The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b * 4
11 South Sea Bubble E3 5c ** 116
12 Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b * 3
13 The Long Run Direct E6 6a ** 8
14 The Long Run E5 6a ** 41
15 The Cad E6 6a *** 77
16 The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b *** 6
17 The Clown
-
E7 6b ** 11
18 The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b *** 5
19 A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b ** 7
20 Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b ** 6
21 The Angle Man
-
E7 6b *  
22 Blue Peter E4 5c ** 103
23 Sarah Green E4 5c * 10
24 Art Groupie E6 6b * 10
25 green gilbert E1 5a * 61
26 The Whip
-
E1 5a 8
27 Wall of Horrors E3 5b 10
28 The Big Overhang
-
A2 10
  Prom Buttress
30 Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
31 Prom
-
HVS  
32 The Dope
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Hash
-
HVS 5a 1
  Mordor Wall
35 Seal Song
-
E5 6b * 3
36 Roof Rack E7 6c **  
37 Mordor
-
HVS 3
38 Mordor Newydd E3 5c  
39 Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
40 Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
41 Mistaken Identity HVS 6
42 Flytrap E2 5b *** 72
43 Flytrap - The Nightflight Variation E3 5c * 1
44 In the Next Room
-
E3 5c * 3
45 Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b *  
46 Flytrap Roof E5 6a * 2
47 The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b *  
48 The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b ** 1
49 The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b ***  
50 Arachnid E5 6a 6
51 Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a * 4
52 Dai Lemming! E4 6a * 2
53 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea E4 6a *** 26
54 Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 2
55 Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b 1
56 Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
57 Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
58 Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
59 The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
60 Route 66
-
VS  
  Wen Zawn
62 The Hitcher E1 5b * 6
63 Maverick
-
VS 4c 5
64 Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 5
65 Mustang
-
VS 4b 6
66 Ipso Facto VS 4c 4
67 Annie's Arch E2 5b 4
68 Kraken VS 4c * 7
69 (Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a * 1
70 Genuflex
-
E2 5b 4
71 Archway
-
E2 5b * 4
72 The Boston Struggler E5 6b ** 5
73 Spider's Web
-
E2 5b *** 29
74 Billy Bud
-
E6 6b ** 2
75 The 4th Dimension E7 6c *** 2
76 The Bluebottle
-
E2 5b * 26
77 Spider Wall E1 5a ** 174
78 Toiler on the Sea E2 5b ** 152
79 Britomartis HVS 4c *** 708
80 Vend-t E2 5b * 7
81 Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a ** 5
82 Sprung HVS 5b * 1
83 The Trap
-
HVS 4c 26
84 Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 8
85 Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b * 1
86 Dislocation Dance E3 5c * 5
87 Uhuru E1 5a 4
88 Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 8
89 Thor VS 4c 15
90 The Unrideable Donky
-
E7 1
91 Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b *** 11
92 The Mad Brown
-
E7 1
93 Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a ** 3
94 T.Rex E3 5c *** 130
95 Metal Guru E4 6a *** 6
96 Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b ** 1
97 Rubble
-
E7 1
98 The Concrete Chimney Direct Finish E1 5a ** 12
99 The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b *** 357
100 The Concrete Dream HVS 5b *** 55
101 Wen HVS 5a ** 542
Climb name Grade
102 Zeus E2 5b ** 97
103 If
-
HVS 5a 8
104 High Pressure
-
E4 5c * 5
105 The Quartz Icicle E2 5b *** 387
106 Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 8
107 A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c *** 1812
108 Dde
-
HVS 5a * 68
109 The Bloodbottle * E4 6b * 3
  Easter Island Gully
111 Watership Down
-
VS 4c 1
112 Supercrack E3 5c ** 105
113 Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a * 6
114 Wonderwall
-
E3 6a ** 64
115 I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a ** 7
116 Phagocyte HVS 5b *** 87
117 Merchant Man
-
E2 5b * 33
118 Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a * 23
119 Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 7
120 Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
121 Rotten Gut HVS 5a 1
122 Crossover
-
VS 4c 5
123 Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 9
124 Big Gut VS 4c * 43
125 Hombre E1 5b *** 152
126 Lost In Space E4 6a 2
127 This Year's Model
-
E3 5c ** 36
128 Praetor
-
E1 5c 10
129 Swastika
-
E1 5c * 31
130 Sex Lobster E3 5c *** 20
131 Belial HVS 5a * 13
132 Pequod
-
E3 5c * 3
133 Drag E1 5b * 10
134 Neutrino E4 6b 9
135 Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 7
136 Annihilator
-
E5 6a ** 7
137 Ormuzd
-
E4 6a *** 9
138 The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b * 4
139 The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b * 4
140 Ahriman
-
HVS 5a * 9
141 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 13
142 Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
143 Belvedere E2 5c * 2
144 Diagonal
-
VS 4c 4
145 Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
146 Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
147 Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
  Main Cliff
  Hustler Area
150 Wrangler E2 5c 2
151 Gringo
-
E1 5b * 18
152 The Third Man
-
E2 5b ** 29
153 Hustler corner crack direct E2 5b *  
154 The Hustler HVS 5a ** 53
155 The Three Muskateers E5 6a ** 2
156 Mestizo E1 5b ** 71
157 Mulatto HVS 4c,5a 2
158 Piglets Left Boot E5 6b * 1
159 Hud
-
HVS 5a * 15
  Phaedra Area
161 Zed
-
HVS 5a  
162 Phaedra
-
E1 5c * 27
163 Horse Above Water E3 5c 4
164 Heroin E1 5b ** 30
165 Dream Seller E1 5b * 15
166 Day Trip E2 5b * 1
167 Nightride E1 5b ** 152
168 Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 38
169 Scavenger HVS 5a *** 340
  Needle Area
171 Hyena
-
E3 5c * 6
172 The Assassin E3 5c ** 121
173 The Needle E3 5c *** 80
  Big Groove Area
175 Hypodermic E2 5c ** 57
176 The Camel E4 6a ** 42
177 Syringe E4 6a ** 83
178 Morphine
-
E2 5c * 11
179 Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c ** 4
180 Jaborandi
-
E2 5b * 20
181 Peepshow
-
E1 5b * 22
182 Pentathol HVS 5b ** 109
183 Puzzle Me Quick E5 6a * 8
184 The Big Groove E3 5c *** 274
185 The Big Groove Direct E4 5c *** 33
186 Main Wall/Mona Complex E2 5b *** 26
187 The Wastelands
-
E4 6a * 11
188 The Tet Offensive E5 6b ** 4
189 Sebastopol E5 6a *** 9
190 Food and Drink E6 6b *** 4
191 Graduation Ceremony E4 6a *** 42
192 Citadel E5 6b *** 85
193 Ramadan E5 6b *** 5
194 Hunger
-
E5 6a *** 61
195 Extinction
-
E8 6b ***  
  Dinosaur Area
197 Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b ** 20
198 Mammoth E5 6b *** 21
199 Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b ** 4
200 The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b ** 8
201 Dinosaur E5 6a *** 59
202 Alien E6 6b *** 18
Climb name Grade
203 Alien/Positron E6 6b *** 3
204 Skinhead Moonstomp E6 6b *** 16
205 ET
-
E6 6b * 1
  Positron Area
207 Eraserhead E6 6a ** 18
208 Positron E5 6a *** 152
209 Ordinary Route E5 6a *** 40
210 The Rat Race E3 5c ** 177
211 Bass Hunter E4 6a ** 8
212 Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a * 17
  Gogarth Area
214 Falls Road
-
E4 5c 4
215 Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b ** 1
216 Devotee E2 5c * 38
217 Gogarth E1 5b *** 879
218 Resolution Direct E2 5b *** 359
219 Resolution E2 5b * 66
  Emulator Area
221 Simulator VS * 68
222 Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, ** 71
223 Emulator E1 5b *** 521
224 Lardvark
-
E5 6b 1
225 Seeyerlater HVS 5b ** 11
226 Imitator VS 5a * 317
227 Aardvark E2 6a ** 254
  Cordon Bleu Area
229 Cordon Bleu HVS 5a ** 162
230 Revelation E1 5b * 3
231 Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b * 2
232 Achilles E3 5c ** 54
233 Direct Start to Diogenes HVS 5a 6
234 Diogenes
-
HVS 5a * 53
235 Sunstroke E2 5b * 43
236 Interpolator HVS 5a4a * 4
  Girdle Traverses
238 The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 9
239 Trunk Line E4 5c *** 8
240 The Horizon E4 5c ***  
  Upper Left, Main Cliff
242 Minnesota Fats
-
S 3
243 The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
244 Devils Marbles E5 6b * 2
  Upper Tier
246 Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
247 Slow Dancer E2 5b 6
248 Bezel VS 5a * 350
249 Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 12
250 The Eternal Optimist E2 5b ** 150
251 Fail Safe E2 5b ** 140
252 Afreet Street E5 6a * 6
253 Energy Crisis E5 6a ** 68
254 The Ramp HVS 5a ** 267
255 The Gauntlet HVS 5a ** 362
256 The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 9
257 Mill Street Junction E1 5b 2
258 Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 6
259 Transatlantic Crossing E2 5c 2
260 Broadway
-
HVS 5a 4
261 Doomsville E2 5b * 9
262 Mayfair E3 5c 8
263 Park Lane/Doomsville E2 5c ** 275
264 Park Lane
-
E1 5b * 45
265 The Strand E2 5b *** 851
266 Hyde Park E4 6b 3
267 Manor Park
-
E5 6a 11
268 Central Park HVS 5a ** 262
269 Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 7
270 Times Square
-
E1 5a 28
271 Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c * 26
272 Fifth Avenue E1 5c ** 136
273 Shag Rock E1 5a * 22
274 Bitter Days E1 5b 2
275 Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 2
276 Crowbar E1 5b * 22
277 The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b * 11
278 Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a * 15
279 Winking Crack E3 5c ** 163
280 Cruise On Through E7 ** 1
281 The Cruise E5 6b ** 39
282 Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c * 2
283 Nomad
-
VS 2
284 Campion
-
HVS 5a 3
285 Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b * 7
286 Puffin Direct/Force 8 combination HVS 5b * 15
287 Puffin VS 4b * 70
288 Force 8
-
HVS 5a * 8
289 Run Fast, Run Free E5 6a ** 77
290 Pantin
-
VS 5a * 54
291 U.F.O.
-
E2 5b * 123
292 Bloody Chimney HVS 4c ** 88
293 Barbarossa E7 6b *** 20
294 Blackleg E5 6a * 34
295 Strike E4 6a ** 251
296 The Rift
-
VS 4c * 36
297 Acid HVS 1
298 Dirtigo
-
VS 4c * 64
299 Psychoandy
-
E6 6c **  
300 The Night Prowler E1 5b * 2
  Unknown, or yet to be sorted Climbs
302 Collection Plate E7 6b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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