Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Stack Wall
2 Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 3
3 Pawn HS 4b 1
4 Rock Return VS 4c 1
5 End Game
-
VS 4c 11
6 Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c * 8
7 Pulling for Two E6 6b ** 3
8 Talking Heads E2 5b ** 107
9 Nice 'n Sleazy E1 5a * 70
10 The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b * 4
11 South Sea Bubble E3 5c ** 120
12 Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b * 3
13 The Long Run Direct E6 6a ** 8
14 The Long Run E5 6a ** 40
15 The Cad E6 6a *** 112
16 The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b *** 11
17 The Clown
-
E7 6b ** 18
18 The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b *** 5
19 A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b ** 7
20 Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b ** 6
21 The Angle Man
-
E7 6b *  
22 Blue Peter E4 5c ** 106
23 Sarah Green E4 5c * 10
24 Art Groupie E6 6b * 10
25 green gilbert E1 5a * 63
26 The Whip
-
E1 5a 8
27 Wall of Horrors E3 5b 10
28 The Big Overhang
-
A2 10
  Prom Buttress
30 Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
31 Prom
-
HVS  
32 The Dope
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Hash
-
HVS 5a 1
  Mordor Wall
35 Seal Song
-
E5 6b * 3
36 Roof Rack E7 6c **  
37 Mordor
-
HVS 3
38 Mordor Newydd E3 5c  
39 Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
40 Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
41 Mistaken Identity HVS 5
42 Flytrap E2 5b *** 127
43 Flytrap - The Nightflight Variation E3 5c * 1
44 In the Next Room
-
E3 5c * 1
45 Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b *  
46 Flytrap Roof E5 6a * 2
47 The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b *  
48 The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b ** 1
49 The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b ***  
50 Arachnid E5 6a 6
51 Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a * 4
52 Dai Lemming! E4 6a * 2
53 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea E4 6a *** 45
54 Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 2
55 Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b 1
56 Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
57 Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
58 Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
59 The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
60 Route 66
-
VS  
  Wen Zawn
62 The Hitcher E1 5b * 8
63 Maverick
-
VS 4c 5
64 Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 5
65 Mustang
-
VS 4b 6
66 Ipso Facto VS 4c 4
67 Annie's Arch E2 5b 4
68 Kraken VS 4c * 10
69 (Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a * 1
70 Genuflex
-
E2 5b 4
71 Archway
-
E2 5b * 4
72 The Boston Struggler E5 6b ** 5
73 Spider's Web
-
E2 5b *** 64
74 Billy Bud
-
E6 6b ** 2
75 The 4th Dimension E7 6c *** 2
76 The Bluebottle
-
E2 5b * 25
77 Spider Wall E1 5a ** 200
78 Toiler on the Sea E2 5b ** 168
79 Britomartis HVS 4c *** 804
80 Vend-t E2 5b * 7
81 Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a ** 5
82 Sprung HVS 5b * 1
83 The Trap
-
HVS 4c 32
84 Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 8
85 Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b * 1
86 Dislocation Dance E3 5c * 4
87 Uhuru E1 5a 4
88 Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 5
89 Thor VS 4c 15
90 The Unrideable Donky
-
E7 1
91 Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b *** 11
92 The Mad Brown
-
E7 1
93 Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a ** 3
94 T.Rex E3 5c *** 196
95 Metal Guru E4 6a *** 13
96 Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b ** 1
97 Rubble
-
E7 1
98 The Concrete Chimney Direct Finish E1 5a ** 11
99 The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b *** 456
100 The Concrete Dream HVS 5b *** 70
101 Wen HVS 5a ** 564
102 Zeus E2 5b ** 105
103 If
-
HVS 5a 8
104 High Pressure
-
E4 5c * 6
105 The Quartz Icicle E2 5b *** 463
106 Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 8
107 A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c *** 2779
108 Dde
-
HVS 5a * 69
  Easter Island Gully
110 Watership Down
-
VS 4c 1
111 Supercrack E3 5c ** 110
112 Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a * 6
113 Wonderwall
-
E3 6a ** 62
114 I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a ** 7
115 Phagocyte HVS 5b *** 96
116 Merchant Man
-
E2 5b * 28
117 Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a * 20
118 Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 7
119 Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
120 Rotten Gut HVS 5a 1
121 Crossover
-
VS 4c 5
122 Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 8
123 Big Gut VS 4c * 55
124 Hombre E1 5b *** 207
125 Lost In Space E4 6a 2
126 This Year's Model
-
E3 5c ** 33
127 Praetor
-
E1 5c 10
128 Swastika
-
E1 5c * 30
129 Sex Lobster E3 5c *** 27
130 Belial HVS 5a * 12
131 Pequod
-
E3 5c * 3
132 Drag E1 5b * 10
133 Neutrino E4 6b 9
134 Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 7
135 Annihilator
-
E5 6a ** 7
136 Ormuzd
-
E4 6a *** 9
137 The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b * 4
138 The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b * 4
139 Ahriman
-
HVS 5a * 9
140 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 13
141 Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
142 Belvedere E2 5c * 2
143 Diagonal
-
VS 4c 5
144 Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
145 Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
146 Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
  Main Cliff
  Hustler Area
149 Gringo
-
E1 5b * 18
150 The Third Man
-
E2 5b ** 27
151 Hustler corner crack direct E2 5b *  
152 The Hustler HVS 5a ** 57
153 The Three Muskateers E5 6a ** 2
154 Mestizo E1 5b ** 81
155 Mulatto HVS 4c,5a 2
156 Piglets Left Boot E5 6b * 1
157 Hud
-
HVS 5a * 17
  Phaedra Area
159 Zed
-
HVS 5a  
160 Phaedra
-
E1 5c * 27
161 Horse Above Water E3 5c 4
162 Heroin E1 5b ** 29
163 Dream Seller E1 5b * 15
164 Day Trip E2 5b * 1
165 Nightride E1 5b ** 164
166 Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 43
167 Scavenger HVS 5a *** 426
  Needle Area
169 Hyena
-
E3 5c * 5
170 The Assassin E3 5c ** 128
171 The Needle E3 5c *** 84
  Big Groove Area
173 Hypodermic E2 5c ** 62
174 The Camel E4 6a ** 44
175 Syringe E4 6a ** 82
176 Morphine
-
E2 5c * 11
177 Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c ** 4
178 Jaborandi
-
E2 5b * 20
179 Peepshow
-
E1 5b * 23
180 Pentathol HVS 5b ** 111
181 Puzzle Me Quick E5 6a * 7
182 The Big Groove E3 5c *** 302
183 The Big Groove Direct E4 5c *** 29
184 Main Wall/Mona Complex E2 5b *** 30
185 The Wastelands
-
E4 6a * 11
186 The Tet Offensive E5 6b ** 4
187 Sebastopol E5 6a *** 5
188 Food and Drink E6 6b *** 2
189 Graduation Ceremony E4 6a *** 42
190 Citadel E5 6b *** 99
191 Ramadan E5 6b *** 5
192 Hunger
-
E5 6a *** 68
193 Extinction
-
E8 6b *** 2
  Dinosaur Area
195 Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b ** 22
196 Mammoth E5 6b *** 21
197 Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b ** 3
198 The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b ** 8
199 Dinosaur E5 6a *** 68
200 Alien E6 6b *** 18
201 Alien/Positron E6 6b *** 2
202 Skinhead Moonstomp E6 6b *** 25
203 ET
-
E6 6b * 1
  Positron Area
205 Eraserhead E6 6a ** 18
206 Positron E5 6a *** 208
207 Ordinary Route E5 6a *** 51
208 The Rat Race E3 5c ** 169
209 Bass Hunter E4 6a ** 6
210 Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a * 16
  Gogarth Area
212 Falls Road
-
E4 5c 4
213 Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b ** 1
214 Devotee E2 5c * 35
215 Gogarth E1 5b *** 951
216 Resolution Direct E2 5b *** 373
217 Resolution E2 5b * 66
  Emulator Area
219 Simulator VS * 67
220 Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, ** 70
221 Emulator E1 5b *** 549
222 Lardvark
-
E5 6b 1
223 Seeyerlater HVS 5b ** 11
224 Imitator VS 5a * 306
225 Aardvark E2 6a ** 253
  Cordon Bleu Area
227 Cordon Bleu HVS 5a ** 184
228 Revelation E1 5b * 3
229 Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b * 2
230 Achilles E3 5c ** 53
231 Direct Start to Diogenes HVS 5a 6
232 Diogenes
-
HVS 5a * 55
233 Sunstroke E2 5b * 41
234 Interpolator HVS 5a4a * 4
  Girdle Traverses
236 The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 10
237 Trunk Line E4 5c *** 8
238 The Horizon E4 5c ***  
  Upper Left, Main Cliff
240 Minnesota Fats
-
S 3
241 The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
242 Devils Marbles E5 6b * 2
  Upper Tier
244 Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
245 Slow Dancer E2 5b 6
246 Bezel VS 5a * 351
247 Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 11
248 The Eternal Optimist E2 5b ** 145
249 Fail Safe E2 5b ** 135
250 Afreet Street E5 6a * 4
251 Energy Crisis E5 6a ** 74
252 The Ramp HVS 5a ** 262
253 The Gauntlet HVS 5a ** 362
254 The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 9
255 Mill Street Junction E1 5b 2
256 Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 6
257 Transatlantic Crossing E2 5c 2
258 Broadway
-
HVS 5a 4
259 Doomsville E2 5b * 9
260 Mayfair E3 5c 8
261 Park Lane/Doomsville E2 5c ** 275
262 Park Lane
-
E1 5b * 46
263 The Strand E2 5b *** 992
264 Hyde Park E4 6b 3
265 Manor Park
-
E5 6a 10
266 Central Park HVS 5a ** 272
267 Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 7
268 Times Square
-
E1 5a 28
269 Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c * 25
270 Fifth Avenue E1 5c ** 135
271 Shag Rock E1 5a * 23
272 Bitter Days E1 5b 2
273 Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 2
274 Crowbar E1 5b * 20
275 The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b * 10
276 Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a * 14
277 Winking Crack E3 5c ** 179
278 Cruise On Through E7 ** 1
279 The Cruise E5 6b ** 38
280 Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c * 2
281 Nomad
-
VS 2
282 Campion
-
HVS 5a 3
283 Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b * 7
284 Puffin Direct/Force 8 combination HVS 5b * 15
285 Puffin VS 4b * 71
286 Force 8
-
HVS 5a * 8
287 Run Fast, Run Free E5 6a ** 87
288 Pantin
-
VS 5a * 52
289 U.F.O.
-
E2 5b * 123
290 Bloody Chimney HVS 4c ** 103
291 Barbarossa E7 6b *** 20
292 Blackleg E5 6a * 32
293 Strike E4 6a ** 243
294 The Rift
-
VS 4c * 39
295 Acid HVS 1
296 Dirtigo
-
VS 4c * 67
297 Psychoandy
-
E6 6c **  
298 The Night Prowler E1 5b * 2
  Unknown, or yet to be sorted Climbs
300 Collection Plate E7 6b * 1

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