Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite

Faces W

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gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Stack Wall
2 Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 3
3 Pawn HS 4b 1
4 Rock Return VS 4c 1
5 End Game
-
VS 4c 11
6 Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c * 8
7 Pulling for Two E6 6b ** 3
8 Talking Heads E2 5b ** 101
9 Nice 'n Sleazy E1 5a * 66
10 The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b * 4
11 South Sea Bubble E3 5c ** 125
12 Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b * 3
13 The Long Run Direct E6 6a ** 8
14 The Long Run E5 6a ** 42
15 The Cad E6 6a *** 87
16 The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b *** 9
17 The Clown
-
E7 6b ** 11
18 The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b *** 5
19 A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b ** 7
20 Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b ** 6
21 The Angle Man
-
E7 6b *  
22 Blue Peter E4 5c ** 116
23 Sarah Green E4 5c * 10
24 Art Groupie E6 6b * 10
25 green gilbert E1 5a * 71
26 The Whip
-
E1 5a 8
27 Wall of Horrors E3 5b 11
28 The Big Overhang
-
A2 11
  Prom Buttress
30 Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
31 Prom
-
HVS  
32 The Dope
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Hash
-
HVS 5a 1
  Flytrap area and Mordor Wall
35 Seal Song
-
E5 6b * 3
36 Roof Rack E7 6c **  
37 Mordor
-
HVS 3
38 Mordor Newydd E3 5c  
39 Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
40 Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
41 Mistaken Identity HVS 6
42 Flytrap E2 5b *** 79
43 Flytrap - The Nightflight Variation E3 5c * 1
44 In the Next Room
-
E3 5c * 3
45 Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b *  
46 Flytrap Roof E5 6a * 2
47 The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b *  
48 The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b ** 1
49 The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b ***  
50 Arachnid E5 6a 6
51 Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a * 4
52 Dai Lemming! E4 6a * 2
53 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea E4 6a *** 32
54 The Hitcher E1 5b * 8
55 Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 4
56 Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b 1
57 Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
58 Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
59 Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
60 The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
61 Route 66
-
VS  
  Wen Zawn
63 Maverick
-
VS 4c 5
64 Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 5
65 Mustang
-
VS 4b 6
66 Ipso Facto VS 4c 5
67 Annie's Arch E2 5b 4
68 Kraken VS 4c * 7
69 (Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a * 1
70 Genuflex
-
E2 5b 5
71 Archway
-
E2 5b * 4
72 The Boston Struggler E5 6b ** 5
73 Spider's Web
-
E2 5b *** 34
74 Billy Bud
-
E6 6b ** 2
75 The 4th Dimension E7 6c *** 2
76 The Bluebottle E2 5b * 27
77 The Bloodbottle E4 6b * 3
78 Spider Wall E1 5a ** 183
79 Toiler on the Sea E2 5b ** 161
80 Britomartis HVS 4c *** 812
81 Vend-t E2 5b * 8
82 Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a ** 5
83 Sprung HVS 5b * 1
84 The Trap
-
HVS 4c 29
85 Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 9
86 Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b * 1
87 Dislocation Dance E3 5c * 4
88 Uhuru E1 5a 6
89 Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 9
90 Thor VS 4c 15
91 The Unrideable Donky
-
E7 1
92 Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b *** 13
93 The Mad Brown
-
E7 1
94 Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a ** 3
95 T.Rex E3 5c *** 143
96 Paperback Relic E6 6b **  
97 Metal Guru E4 6a *** 6
98 Its a Broad Church E7 6b  
99 Collection Plate E7 6b * 1
100 Mr Softy E6 6b  
101 Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b ** 1
102 Rubble
-
E7 1
103 The Concrete Chimney Direct Finish E1 5a ** 15
Climb name Grade
104 The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b *** 389
105 The Concrete Dream HVS 5b *** 74
106 Wen HVS 5a ** 610
107 Zeus E2 5b ** 114
108 If
-
HVS 5a 8
109 High Pressure
-
E4 5c * 5
110 The Quartz Icicle E2 5b *** 420
111 Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 9
112 A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c *** 2070
113 Dde
-
HVS 5a * 77
114 Wen Slab Escape route VS 4c 4
  Easter Island Gully
116 Watership Down
-
VS 4c 1
117 Supercrack E3 5c ** 113
118 Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a * 9
119 Wonderwall
-
E3 6a ** 70
120 I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a ** 7
121 Phagocyte HVS 5b *** 92
122 Merchant Man
-
E2 5b * 35
123 Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a * 29
124 Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 7
125 Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
126 Rotten Gut HVS 5a 1
127 Crossover
-
VS 4c 5
128 Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 11
129 Big Gut VS 4c * 44
130 Hombre E1 5b *** 165
131 Lost In Space E4 6a 2
132 This Year's Model
-
E3 5c ** 35
133 Praetor
-
E1 5c 10
134 Swastika
-
E1 5c * 32
135 Sex Lobster E3 5c ** 21
136 Belial HVS 5a * 17
137 Pequod
-
E3 5c * 4
138 Drag E1 5b * 11
139 Neutrino E4 6b 9
140 Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 7
141 Annihilator
-
E5 6a ** 7
142 Ormuzd
-
E4 6a *** 9
143 The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b * 4
144 The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b * 4
145 Ahriman
-
HVS 5a * 9
146 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 13
147 Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
148 Belvedere E2 5c * 2
149 Diagonal
-
VS 4c 4
150 Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
151 Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
152 Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
  Main Cliff
  Hustler Area
155 Wrangler E2 5c 2
156 Gringo
-
E1 5b * 18
157 The Third Man
-
E2 5b ** 31
158 Hustler corner crack direct E2 5b *  
159 The Hustler HVS 5a ** 57
160 The Three Muskateers E5 6a ** 2
161 Mestizo E1 5b ** 78
162 Mulatto HVS 4c,5a 2
163 Piglets Left Boot E5 6b * 1
164 Hud
-
HVS 5a * 15
  Phaedra Area
166 Zed
-
HVS 5a  
167 Phaedra
-
E1 5c * 28
168 Horse Above Water E3 5c 4
169 Heroin E1 5b ** 32
170 Dream Seller E1 5b * 16
171 Day Trip E2 5b * 1
172 Nightride E1 5b ** 174
173 Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 43
174 Scavenger HVS 5a *** 380
  Needle Area
176 Hyena
-
E3 5c * 5
177 The Assassin E3 5c ** 135
178 The Needle E3 5c *** 86
  Big Groove Area
180 Hypodermic E2 5c ** 63
181 The Camel E4 6a ** 45
182 Syringe E4 6a ** 88
183 Morphine
-
E2 5c * 11
184 Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c ** 4
185 Jaborandi
-
E2 5b * 21
186 Peepshow
-
E1 5b * 23
187 Pentathol HVS 5b ** 116
188 Puzzle Me Quick E5 6a * 7
189 The Big Groove E3 5c *** 292
190 The Big Groove Direct E4 5c *** 39
191 Main Wall/Mona Complex E2 5b *** 30
192 The Wastelands
-
E5 6a * 11
193 The Tet Offensive E5 6b ** 4
194 Sebastopol E5 6a *** 9
195 Food and Drink E6 6b *** 4
196 Graduation Ceremony E4 6a *** 46
197 Citadel E5 6b *** 113
198 Ramadan E5 6b *** 6
199 Hunger
-
E5 6a *** 72
200 Extinction
-
E8 6b ***  
  Dinosaur Area
202 Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b ** 20
203 Mammoth E5 6b *** 31
204 Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b ** 3
205 The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b ** 8
206 Dinosaur E5 6a *** 69
Climb name Grade
207 Alien E6 6b *** 18
208 Alien/Positron E6 6b *** 3
209 Skinhead Moonstomp E6 6b *** 19
210 ET
-
E6 6b * 1
211 Democide E8 6c *** 1
  Positron Area
213 Eraserhead E6 6a ** 18
214 Positron E5 6a *** 173
215 Ordinary Route E5 6a *** 41
216 The Rat Race E3 5c ** 197
217 Bass Hunter E4 6a ** 8
218 Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a * 17
  Gogarth Area
220 Falls Road
-
E4 5c 4
221 Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b ** 1
222 Devotee E2 5c * 40
223 Gogarth E1 5b *** 1180
224 Resolution Direct E2 5b *** 402
225 Resolution E2 5b * 73
  Emulator Area
227 Simulator VS * 77
228 Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, ** 81
229 Emulator E1 5b *** 575
230 Lardvark
-
E5 6b 1
231 Seeyerlater HVS 5b ** 11
232 Imitator VS 5a * 351
233 Aardvark E2 6a ** 268
  Cordon Bleu Area
235 Cordon Bleu HVS 5a ** 179
236 Revelation E1 5b * 4
237 Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b * 2
238 Achilles E3 5c ** 63
239 Direct Start to Diogenes HVS 5a 6
240 Diogenes
-
HVS 5a * 56
241 Sunstroke E2 5b * 47
242 Interpolator HVS 5a4a * 4
  Girdle Traverses
244 The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 9
245 Trunk Line E4 5c *** 10
246 The Horizon E4 5c ***  
  Upper Left, Main Cliff
248 Minnesota Fats
-
S 3
249 The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
250 Devils Marbles E5 6b * 2
  Upper Tier
252 Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
253 Slow Dancer E2 5b 6
254 Bezel VS 5a * 393
255 Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 13
256 The Eternal Optimist E2 5b ** 173
257 Fail Safe E2 5b ** 153
258 Afreet Street E5 6a * 6
259 Energy Crisis E5 6a ** 74
260 The Ramp HVS 5a ** 295
261 The Gauntlet HVS 5a ** 390
262 The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 9
263 Mill Street Junction E1 5b 2
264 Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 6
265 Transatlantic Crossing E2 5c 2
266 Broadway
-
HVS 5a 4
267 Doomsville E2 5b * 8
268 Mayfair E3 5c 8
269 Park Lane/Doomsville E2 5c ** 306
270 Park Lane
-
E1 5b * 48
271 The Strand E2 5b *** 951
272 Hyde Park E4 6b 3
273 Manor Park
-
E5 6a 11
274 Central Park HVS 5a ** 287
275 Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 7
276 Times Square
-
E1 5a 29
277 Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c * 28
278 Fifth Avenue E1 5c ** 146
279 Shag Rock E1 5a * 24
280 Bitter Days E1 5b 2
281 Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 3
282 Crowbar E1 5b * 24
283 The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b * 10
284 Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a * 14
285 Winking Crack E3 5c ** 192
286 Cruise On Through E7 ** 1
287 The Cruise E5 6b ** 42
288 Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c * 2
289 Nomad
-
VS 2
290 Campion
-
HVS 5a 3
291 Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b * 7
292 Puffin Direct/Force 8 combination HVS 5b * 15
293 Puffin VS 4b * 74
294 Force 8
-
HVS 5a * 8
295 Run Fast, Run Free E5 6a ** 87
296 Pantin
-
VS 5a * 61
297 U.F.O.
-
E2 5b * 133
298 Bloody Chimney HVS 4c ** 95
299 Barbarossa E7 6b *** 24
300 Blackleg E5 6a * 34
301 Strike E4 6a ** 284
302 The Rift
-
VS 4c * 38
303 Acid HVS 1
304 Dirtigo
-
VS 4c * 67
305 Psychoandy
-
E6 6c **  
306 The Night Prowler E1 5b * 2
307 Gearing-Up Crack E1 5b ** 1
308 The Underground E4 6a  
  Unknown, or yet to be sorted Climbs

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