UKC

Climbs 300
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

gogath © jas wood

Crag features

The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Approach notes

Access to especially the Main Cliff and Easter Island is affected by the tides. Climbers visiting these areas are advised to check the local tide tables, which may be purchased in Holyhead.

Approach for South Stack, Upper Tier and Main Cliff areas: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. Turn left again at GR255793 where a twisting coastal road leads past several small coves to another left turn after three miles; a narrow road runs up to the South Stack Cafe. The South Stack cliffs lie just below the cafe and car parks. For Upper Tier and the Main Cliff an path leads north east from the upper car park past a prominent telecoms relay station towards the south-facing crags on Holyhead Mountain. The path now splits, where the right path continues over the mountain to North Stack, whilst the left path drops down to a well-worn site at the top of the descent gully, overlooking Gogarth Bay. From the foot of the gully a path contours round the hillside below the Upper Tier. Just around the corner beyond the prominent pinnacle (Shag Rock) a branch of the path drops steeply down to Main Cliff.

For North Stack Wall and Wen Zawn, on entering Holyhead, follow Victoria Road (A5) to the harbour. Turn left along the Prince of Wales Road along the harbour front, and continue along a minor road forkig left where the main road bears right. Follow this deteriorating 'road' until you reach the parking areas near the Holyhead Quarries (GR225834). Follow the path climbing steeply up the hillside, taking the left fork when it divides after half a mile. Continue uphill until the path divides again. The right path runs down by some telegraph poles to the North Stack fog-warning station, and the left leads up to a col just above Wen Zawn.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gogarth North (2009)
Gogarth (1990)
Universally bold and poorly protected? Most of the routes are perfectly safe!
Ian Jones - 21/Sep/10
Latest info on www.gogarth.org.uk
dr evil - 09/Mar/07
one of the most atmospheric and important crags for traditional ascents. Truly one of the greats, sadly becoming over looked as bouldering gains in popularity
Matt - 18/May/05
Awesome, Gogarth (as in the route) is well worth the effort. Adventurous, well protected and each pitch is a delight
NeilT - 02/Sep/02
Free guide to the Upper Tier from: www.stevethepro.ukf.net
stp - 17/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Stack Wall
2 Bank Holiday Bypass
-
VS 4c 3
3 Pawn HS 4b 1
4 Rock Return VS 4c 1
5 End Game
-
VS 4c 11
6 Not Fade Away
-
E4 5c * 8
7 Pulling for Two E6 6b ** 3
8 Talking Heads E2 5b ** 90
9 Nice 'n Sleazy E1 5a * 60
10 The Demons of Bosch
-
E7 6b * 4
11 South Sea Bubble E3 5c ** 115
12 Stroke of the Fiend
-
E7 6b * 3
13 The Long Run Direct E6 6a ** 8
14 The Long Run E5 6a ** 40
15 The Cad E6 6a *** 74
16 The Bells! The Bells!
-
E7 6b *** 6
17 The Clown
-
E7 6b ** 11
18 The Hollow Man
-
E8 6b *** 5
19 A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade
-
E7 6b ** 7
20 Flower of Evil
-
E7 6b ** 6
21 The Angle Man
-
E7 6b *  
22 Blue Peter E4 5c ** 102
23 Sarah Green E4 5c * 10
24 Art Groupie E6 6b * 10
25 green gilbert E1 5a * 60
26 The Whip
-
E1 5a 8
27 Wall of Horrors E3 5b 10
28 The Big Overhang
-
A2 10
  Prom Buttress
30 Bullitt
-
HVS 5a  
31 Prom
-
HVS  
32 The Dope
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Hash
-
HVS 5a 1
  Mordor Wall
35 Seal Song
-
E5 6b * 3
36 Roof Rack E7 6c **  
37 Mordor
-
HVS 3
38 Mordor Newydd E3 5c  
39 Six White Bloomers
-
VS 4c 1
40 Colditz
-
VS 4c 9
41 Mistaken Identity HVS 5
42 Flytrap E2 5b *** 70
43 Flytrap - The Nightflight Variation E3 5c * 1
44 In the Next Room
-
E3 5c * 1
45 Bury My Knee
-
E5 6b *  
46 Flytrap Roof E5 6a * 2
47 The Porcelain Arena
-
E6 6b *  
48 The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes
-
E5 6b ** 1
49 The Ultraviolet Exterminator
-
E7 6b ***  
50 Arachnid E5 6a 6
51 Holyhead Revisited
-
E5 6a * 4
52 Dai Lemming! E4 6a * 2
53 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea E4 6a *** 26
54 Jug Patrol
-
E1 5b 2
55 Touching Cloth
-
E1 5b 1
56 Oijee Wall
-
E1 5b 1
57 Point Blank
-
VS 5a  
58 Skippy
-
E1 5b 1
59 The Walls of Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
60 Route 66
-
VS  
  Wen Zawn
62 The Hitcher E1 5b * 6
63 Maverick
-
VS 4c 5
64 Mr Seal
-
VS 4c 5
65 Mustang
-
VS 4b 6
66 Ipso Facto VS 4c 4
67 Annie's Arch E2 5b 4
68 Kraken VS 4c * 7
69 (Will Mawr gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
-
E4 6a * 1
70 Genuflex
-
E2 5b 4
71 Archway
-
E2 5b * 4
72 The Boston Struggler E5 6b ** 5
73 Spider's Web
-
E2 5b *** 29
74 Billy Bud
-
E6 6b ** 2
75 The 4th Dimension E7 6c *** 2
76 The Bluebottle
-
E2 5b * 25
77 Spider Wall E1 5a ** 169
78 Toiler on the Sea E2 5b ** 152
79 Britomartis HVS 4c *** 675
80 Vend-t E2 5b * 7
81 Gobbler's Arete
-
E3 6a ** 5
82 Sprung HVS 5b * 1
83 The Trap
-
HVS 4c 26
84 Minute Man
-
HVS 5a 8
85 Evidently Chickentown
-
E5 6b * 1
86 Dislocation Dance E3 5c * 5
87 Uhuru E1 5a 4
88 Boogie Woogie
-
VS 4b 6
89 Thor VS 4c 15
90 The Unrideable Donky
-
E7 1
91 Conan the Librarian
-
E7 6b *** 11
92 The Mad Brown
-
E7 1
93 Games Climbers Play
-
E5 6a ** 3
94 T.Rex E3 5c *** 129
95 Metal Guru E4 6a *** 6
96 Hardback Thesaurus
-
E7 6b ** 1
97 Rubble
-
E7 1
98 The Concrete Chimney Direct Finish E1 5a ** 12
99 The Concrete Chimney
-
HVS 5b *** 352
100 The Concrete Dream HVS 5b *** 50
101 Wen HVS 5a ** 513
Climb name Grade
102 Zeus E2 5b ** 93
103 If
-
HVS 5a 8
104 High Pressure
-
E4 5c * 5
105 The Quartz Icicle E2 5b *** 370
106 Echo Beach
-
E2 5b 8
107 A Dream of White Horses HVS 4c *** 1728
108 Dde
-
HVS 5a * 65
  Easter Island Gully
110 Watership Down
-
VS 4c 1
111 Supercrack E3 5c ** 104
112 Exit Groove
-
HVS 5a * 6
113 Wonderwall
-
E3 6a ** 62
114 I Wonder Why
-
E5 6a ** 7
115 Phagocyte HVS 5b *** 83
116 Merchant Man
-
E2 5b * 30
117 Tape Worm
-
HVS 5a * 21
118 Small Gut
-
HVS 5a 7
119 Fluke
-
HVS 5b 2
120 Rotten Gut HVS 5a 1
121 Crossover
-
VS 4c 5
122 Rock Island Line
-
HVS 5a 8
123 Big Gut VS 4c * 42
124 Hombre E1 5b *** 143
125 Lost In Space E4 6a 2
126 This Year's Model
-
E3 5c ** 34
127 Praetor
-
E1 5c 10
128 Swastika
-
E1 5c * 31
129 Sex Lobster E3 5c *** 20
130 Belial HVS 5a * 12
131 Pequod
-
E3 5c * 3
132 Drag E1 5b * 10
133 Neutrino E4 6b 9
134 Exit Chimney
-
VS 4c 7
135 Annihilator
-
E5 6a ** 7
136 Ormuzd
-
E4 6a *** 9
137 The Red Sofa
-
E5 6b * 4
138 The Ancient Mariner
-
E5 6b * 4
139 Ahriman
-
HVS 5a * 9
140 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 13
141 Perpendicular
-
VS 4b 3
142 Belvedere E2 5c * 2
143 Diagonal
-
VS 4c 4
144 Diatom
-
VS 4c 10
145 Micron
-
HVS 5a 2
146 Microdot
-
HVS 5a 2
  Main Cliff
  Hustler Area
149 Wrangler E2 5c 1
150 Gringo
-
E1 5b * 18
151 The Third Man
-
E2 5b ** 27
152 Hustler corner crack direct E2 5b *  
153 The Hustler HVS 5a ** 52
154 The Three Muskateers E5 6a ** 2
155 Mestizo E1 5b ** 70
156 Mulatto HVS 4c,5a 2
157 Piglets Left Boot E5 6b * 1
158 Hud
-
HVS 5a * 15
  Phaedra Area
160 Zed
-
HVS 5a  
161 Phaedra
-
E1 5c * 27
162 Horse Above Water E3 5c 4
163 Heroin E1 5b ** 30
164 Dream Seller E1 5b * 15
165 Day Trip E2 5b * 1
166 Nightride E1 5b ** 152
167 Scavenger Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 38
168 Scavenger HVS 5a *** 331
  Needle Area
170 Hyena
-
E3 5c * 6
171 The Assassin E3 5c ** 117
172 The Needle E3 5c *** 78
  Big Groove Area
174 Hypodermic E2 5c ** 57
175 The Camel E4 6a ** 41
176 Syringe E4 6a ** 81
177 Morphine
-
E2 5c * 11
178 Jaborandi direct
-
E3 5c ** 4
179 Jaborandi
-
E2 5b * 19
180 Peepshow
-
E1 5b * 22
181 Pentathol HVS 5b ** 108
182 Puzzle Me Quick E5 6a * 8
183 The Big Groove E3 5c *** 271
184 The Big Groove Direct E4 5c *** 32
185 Main Wall/Mona Complex E2 5b *** 24
186 The Wastelands
-
E4 6a * 11
187 The Tet Offensive E5 6b ** 4
188 Sebastopol E5 6a *** 5
189 Food and Drink E6 6b *** 2
190 Graduation Ceremony E4 6a *** 41
191 Citadel E5 6b *** 83
192 Ramadan E5 6b *** 5
193 Hunger
-
E5 6a *** 59
194 Extinction
-
E8 6b ***  
  Dinosaur Area
196 Mammoth Direct
-
E6 6b ** 21
197 Mammoth E5 6b *** 19
198 Wall of Fossils
-
E6 6b ** 4
199 The Big Sleep
-
E6 6b ** 8
200 Dinosaur E5 6a *** 56
201 Alien E6 6b *** 18
202 Alien/Positron E6 6b *** 3
Climb name Grade
203 Skinhead Moonstomp E6 6b *** 16
204 ET
-
E6 6b * 1
  Positron Area
206 Eraserhead E6 6a ** 18
207 Positron E5 6a *** 144
208 Ordinary Route E5 6a *** 38
209 The Rat Race E3 5c ** 170
210 Bass Hunter E4 6a ** 6
211 Bubbly Situation Blues
-
E4 6a * 17
  Gogarth Area
213 Falls Road
-
E4 5c 4
214 Return to Garthgog
-
E5 6a/b ** 1
215 Devotee E2 5c * 37
216 Gogarth E1 5b *** 847
217 Resolution Direct E2 5b *** 347
218 Resolution E2 5b * 66
  Emulator Area
220 Simulator VS * 65
221 Stimulator
-
E3 5c,5b, ** 68
222 Emulator E1 5b *** 506
223 Lardvark
-
E5 6b 1
224 Seeyerlater HVS 5b ** 11
225 Imitator VS 5a * 302
226 Aardvark E2 6a ** 251
  Cordon Bleu Area
228 Cordon Bleu HVS 5a ** 162
229 Revelation E1 5b * 3
230 Coming on Strong
-
E6 6b * 2
231 Achilles E3 5c ** 54
232 Direct Start to Diogenes HVS 5a 6
233 Diogenes
-
HVS 5a * 53
234 Sunstroke E2 5b * 43
235 Interpolator HVS 5a4a * 4
  Girdle Traverses
237 The Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5b 9
238 Trunk Line E4 5c *** 8
239 The Horizon E4 5c ***  
  Upper Left, Main Cliff
241 Minnesota Fats
-
S 3
242 The Finisher
-
E1 5b 1
243 Devils Marbles E5 6b * 2
  Upper Tier
245 Sulcus
-
VS 5a 4
246 Slow Dancer E2 5b 6
247 Bezel VS 5a * 338
248 Cartwheel
-
E2 5b 11
249 The Eternal Optimist E2 5b ** 146
250 Fail Safe E2 5b ** 138
251 Afreet Street E5 6a * 6
252 Energy Crisis E5 6a ** 67
253 The Ramp HVS 5a ** 256
254 The Gauntlet HVS 5a ** 354
255 The Cracks
-
HVS 5a 9
256 Mill Street Junction E1 5b 2
257 Amphitheatre Wall
-
HVS 4c 6
258 Transatlantic Crossing E2 5c 2
259 Broadway
-
HVS 5a 4
260 Doomsville E2 5b * 9
261 Mayfair E3 5c 8
262 Park Lane/Doomsville E2 5c ** 272
263 Park Lane
-
E1 5b * 45
264 The Strand E2 5b *** 832
265 Hyde Park E4 6b 3
266 Manor Park
-
E5 6a 11
267 Central Park HVS 5a ** 258
268 Street Survivor
-
E2 5c 7
269 Times Square
-
E1 5a 28
270 Tequila Sunrise
-
E2 5c * 25
271 Fifth Avenue E1 5c ** 134
272 Shag Rock E1 5a * 22
273 Bitter Days E1 5b 2
274 Black Spot
-
HVS 5a 2
275 Crowbar E1 5b * 22
276 The Horrorshow
-
E5 6b * 11
277 Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest
-
E5 6a * 15
278 Winking Crack E3 5c ** 159
279 Cruise On Through E7 ** 1
280 The Cruise E5 6b ** 39
281 Hang Ten (in the Green Room)
-
E6 6c * 2
282 Nomad
-
VS 2
283 Campion
-
HVS 5a 3
284 Puffin Direct Start
-
HVS 5b * 7
285 Puffin Direct/Force 8 combination HVS 5b * 15
286 Puffin VS 4b * 68
287 Force 8
-
HVS 5a * 8
288 Run Fast, Run Free E5 6a ** 75
289 Pantin
-
VS 5a * 53
290 U.F.O.
-
E2 5b * 122
291 Bloody Chimney HVS 4c ** 85
292 Barbarossa E7 6b *** 20
293 Blackleg E5 6a * 33
294 Strike E4 6a ** 243
295 The Rift
-
VS 4c * 34
296 Acid HVS 1
297 Dirtigo
-
VS 4c * 64
298 Psychoandy
-
E6 6c **  
299 The Night Prowler E1 5b * 2
  Unknown, or yet to be sorted Climbs
301 Collection Plate E7 6b * 1

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