Rockfax Description
A real adventure that has some stunning climbing in wild situations. Start 15m to the right of the large corner/chimney of Heroin, below an 8m crack that leads to the right-hand end of a large ledge.
1) 4c, 9m. Climb the crack to the large ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. A belter of a pitch. Ascend the corner for 12m until a tricky move can be made right round the arete to a reasonable ledge on the wall. Follow this rising ledge-line right to the base of a steep cracked groove. Exciting climbing up this leads to a small but adequate stance.
3) 4a, 18m. Follow the continuation groove to a sloping ramp-line that leads left to the corner and belay here below a chimney.
4) 20m. Move left to join Nightrider P4. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Teappleby 18/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3/4. Better/easier than previous gogarth experience.

with Harry Lewis, Olga Kondrashova
Mowglee 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ali
Rob Rocket 26/Aug/17 AltLd
with Adam Ellwood
nickdonohue 17/Aug/17 2nd
with Tom Lawfield
Samantha Dickson 25/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Ali Baxter
Hidden 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S
GStone 22/Jul/17 AltLd
with Marcus Harvey
Rachel Hoyland 17/Jul/17 AltLd

A, R, A

adi bryant 17/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
j.anstee 16/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Great route for my first forays onto the sea cliffs.

with Bob Thomas
Hidden 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Paul ablitt 01/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Lucy
milena 18/Jun/17 AltLd

Brilliant climb. Don't forget to turn around and take a look at the view when you are climbing the groove.

with Ben D.
lanky 04/Jun/17 AltLd
with Rich
rachelpearce01 05/May/17 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 05/May/17 AltLd O/S

rachel led p1, p2 had a pretty hard start but theres some gear, the traverse is fine but i found the layback crack very sustained! rachel p3 not too bad, p4 is easy really didnt feel 4c. pretty wild approach, first route at main cliff.

mrteale 01/May/17 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. First half of the open corner on pitch 2 was very greasy unfortunately but still great fun. The low crux felt very bold at HVS.. a fall would have meant landing on my belayer.. perhaps I missed some gear..

AnnaLomas 01/May/17 2nd dog

Climbed the crux but got pretty terrified after the traverse

with Ed
pauldrew 22/Apr/17 AltLd
BarbsMurray 22/Apr/17 AltLd
with Paul
shed_hed 09/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3 & P4 in one.

with Jeremy
Hidden 25/Mar/17 2nd
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
beagly77 ??/2017 -
jimxxx 09/Oct/16 AltLd G/U
with Ron
JEP 11/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 10/Sep/16 -
Mike_Hayes 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led first two pitches in one. Great route.

Mark Young 17/Jul/16 AltLd
with Stu
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead
pete1993 25/Jun/16 AltLd β

ben started up hypodermic but then it rained and so we decided to escape up this, ace climbing up the groove, i see what this main cliff thing is about now

with Alex, Ben
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 AltLd
Kris2fa 14/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Adam24B
Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd
jon_gill1 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Traversed in to route which was so much fun!me P1,P3 and P4 in one. Ellie P2

alexjz 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Lead main pitch

with Luke Dudill
John Nuttall 04/Jun/16 Lead
with Sharon
HimTiggins 02/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Sam Loveday
sgl 02/Jun/16 AltLd

main pitch

with tim
Adam24B ?/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Decided it would be ok to take a newish Climber up this, had a bit of an epic! The climb itself is great on the main pitch, not so much topping out

Kirill 29/May/16 AltLd
cem 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3.

Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd
LDudill 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

Me p1 and p3, Alex p2 and p4 scramble out.

with Alex z
AndrewP 18/May/16 Lead O/S

A 2 star route with a 4 star walk in! Magnificent second pitch but the other 3 are just OK. Crux is the first groove on P2 which is thin bridging and quite run out.

with Josh Chappel
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 15/May/16 AltLd O/S
with John
DubyaJamesDubya 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Joe Harris
saintlade ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Dynomite ??/2016 2nd
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Rollo 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Mike
mike.moss 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
John sealey 10/Oct/15 Lead
manxclare 10/Oct/15 2nd
with jon22
jmills94 ?/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

thought the groove on the main pitch was definitely worth 5b and is certainly at the very top of its grade. great route but certainly one for the solid hvs leader.

with pip
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Sardien 26/Sep/15 AltLd rpt

Great day and loved the main pitch. Crux at the start is hard (5b?) and felt serious as you'd hit the ledge if you come off before you can place the saviour cams. Loads of seals around.

with Johnny
Pete_Frost 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Traversed in at sea level in the morning when the tide was out, but this meant that the crag was damp. The traverse is worth doing just to understand the layout of the Main Cliff. There was no sign of the abseil stations mentioned in the RockFax guide - I wouldn't recommend abseiling in because you've no idea what you're getting in to! Led P2 and P4 The route itself was fun, if a bit wet. P2 is long and takes lots of gear. There's one tricky move on P2 and the top crack is both sustained and exposed. P4 is a good, old-fashioned thrutch.

with Phil Creed
Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
BTphonehome 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome main pitch

with Kasha
Hidden 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
kasha_gregson 15/Aug/15 2nd
with Bram
mike lawrence? 24/Jul/15 AltLd
with Metal
tessa teapot ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Dizz 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with EJ
robpartridge ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Noddy
masa-alpin 15/May/15 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, Saša did P2 and 3.

with Sa?a Dobrić
martinov 13/May/15 AltLd O/S

with Lucy

Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd dog
joermann 01/May/15 AltLd O/S
Swotson ?/May/15 Lead O/S
with Andy Brown
pete johnson 16/Apr/15 AltLd

Intended to do Assassin but too cold, escaped up Scavenger after 1st pitch.

with Al Hughes
Hidden 05/Apr/15 Lead
Brown 04/Apr/15 AltLd
with Adrian, Lilifa
jezb1 14/Mar/15 AltLd

What a route! I got P2 which was ace.

Sardien 15/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Started off in the blazing sunshine early afternoon, then cloud came in and it got a bit nippy after all. Bailed out of leading the main pitch and grateful for Andy taking over as the whole groove was soaking wet. Forgot to take both headtorch and nutkey. Splendid day out!

with Andy Scott
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 21/Sep/14 AltLd

Led pp 2+4

with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 21/Sep/14 AltLd

led p1 &3

with Chris
w-watson 13/Sep/14 AltLd
guy757 09/Sep/14 -
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd
mhairi thorburn 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tamsin
Chris Reid 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd
JamesWilliams 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

p2 awesome crux maybe a couple of easy 5b moves? sustained 5a for the rest in the lovely sunshine. tops off for power!

with Rafe
UncleMephisto 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Solid gold. Middle pitch is one of the best I've ever been on.

cpoad 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led the first & third but not the main pitch.

with Julian D, Clare F
Harri777 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Khalid
khalidq 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Robb Bert 08/Jun/14 -
Tom Livingstone 27/May/14 AltLd O/S

P1, 3 and 4

Glyn 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Amy
Amy UT 25/Apr/14 2nd O/S

First Gogarth main cliff experience. Great climb

with Glyn
wi11 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3

with Helena
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis, Dave Woodcock
oliverpcain ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
rbharries 11/Dec/13 2nd O/S

one of my fav climbs to date. really pumpy. beautiful area. I want more and more

with neils EW, josie McG
Hidden 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead
Martin Haworth 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. At last. Totes amazeballs, although no pushover at the grade. James eschewed the usual finishing chimney for the much greener, harder and unclimbeder crack to the left. Fun times.

James Oswald 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Very good, lead P1 and p3. Colin did p2. I went up the wrong chimney at the end which was quite desperate, less solid and not very good.

with Colin Angus
dan gibson 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

great climb, thought the crux on second pitch was 5b.

with dan
vanderz 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hardcore Pat 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Odd pitches.

with Chris Vanderz
MFB 19/Jun/13 AltLd

Martin leads crux

with MB
highclimber 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lead all of it. took the eaasy route off the top as it was getting late and I was gasping and burning in the gloriously hot sun! great climb

Palindrome 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Second pitch has a gnarly start but you are rewarded with a fantastic groove above.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
peterhubbard 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Anthony Eccles
pie_eater_pete 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with pete sargeant
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
rustaldo 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

A good line and good solid rock. Gogarth is the better route and a better experience though. Lead P2 and P4 the chimney, not sure which was better.

rich_hw 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 05/May/13 AltLd rpt

Led crux pitch this time.

givemetea 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

led P2+P4 (avoided the squeeze chimney and did the easier P4 alternative)

Rachel S 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Ros did P2, crux pitch.

with Ros M
Hidden ?/May/13 -
Johnmuff ?/Mar/13 AltLd
will9911 ??/2013 Lead O/S
tim20 ??/2013 -
suds_01 04/Nov/12 AltLd
with Jackson, Alaister begley
suds_01 15/Oct/12 AltLd
with Alaister begley, Jackson
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
benkelsey 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

quality. lead it all. split p2 in the middle to watch shaun. ran final two pitches together. great route and in the sun!

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 07/Oct/12 2nd
Colin Scotchford 22/Sep/12 AltLd
Rich Kirby 26/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Perfect evening conditions.

with Ruth
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Lenny ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Les
Hidden 17/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd
Dan724 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
Clay C 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3.

with Will T
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 -
Hidden 25/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with L.Fleming
Andrew Sloan 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Split pitch 2 as too much ropedrag and not enough quickdraws. Led 1st part of pitch 2 and pitch 3. I thought crux bridging move on initial corner of pitch 2 was very delicate and would give it 5b.Sensational route, beautiful day.

with Steve Grove
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Brannock 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Very hot day, P2 solid at the grade, awesome though.

Liam FLeming 12/Mar/12 -
Will Sheaff ?/Mar/12 AltLd

Led p1&3

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
mikeyjbs 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Charles Green
caradoc 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

lived up to expectations, good climbing throughout

with nick yapp
Tim Sparrow 22/Aug/11 AltLd

Wonderful bridging route

with Geoff Thomas
hedgehog77 09/Aug/11 2nd
with rob brown
Ewan Russell 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

1,2,4. Got hit by a wave as time was short decided to give mietizo a miss; so this!

with Halla
Jen Crook 29/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jul/11 AltLd
centurion05 29/Jul/11 AltLd
with patch
coombsy 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


with John B
Exodus 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Exodus 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Jim Slater 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First route at Gogarth. An interesting approach. Had too many cloths on and fried alive leading the 2nd pitch which servilely limited my enjoyment. Plus I seemed to be having a bad gear day. Unfortunately not the classic experience I was expecting. Give it time maybe one to come back to?

with Jim
HIGHTOWER 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Mark Amyes, Lee Wales
Blurgy319 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Fantastic all the way

with Lee Wales, Mark Freestone
Hidden 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
pabbage 28/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Abi Chard 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Nicholson
Hidden 11/Jun/11 -
gareth r 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Bob
Hidden 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 AltLd
dan ely 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with steve
theotherpetehill 29/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 -
David Sherratt 29/May/11 -
chrisallan 29/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 AltLd
Pippa 01/May/11 Lead
with Jon
mick1jones 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with Rich Rogers
tim newton 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Danjones 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 27/Mar/11 AltLd
with JRae
JRae 27/Mar/11 AltLd

P2 - Ace

with A Saul
tom.e 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Claire
gd303uk 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
schof 21/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with northern dave
david morse 20/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with andy psyche
mynyddresident 04/Oct/10 AltLd

great gear,great 3D climbing

with ben
Greenman28 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Best trad climb in ages.....stunning second pitch

Owen Pinch 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3 and then scramble to the top pitch.

with Bob Dickson
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd
metal arms 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
colenn 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent 2nd Pitch

with Peter Britton
Martin Cooper 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Stan
Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led the major pitch, utterly utterly amazing, one of the best climbs I've done.

with jamesca
stargazer85 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Matt Keyse
peter myers ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Simon Bennet
Tomprusk 08/Jul/10 AltLd rpt

in trainers

with Dan
dan-8990 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with TP
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 22/May/10 AltLd

Excellent. Phil didn't seem to enjoy the approach!!

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
markfairbank 01/May/10 AltLd O/S

Ian led the P2 crux, which is cracking pitch of climbing. Took abit of time to find the actual route, just about still light when we finished

with Ian Moore
Owain Llewelyn ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Dad
Cheshire Dave ??/2010 -

Led main pitch, found initial crack desparate

soph ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Tomprusk 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Amazing! was only disappointed that the main pitch didn't last longer than 45 metres :P

with Nick
Nick Nitro ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Excellent route

csalvage 01/Aug/09 AltLd

Only led the third easy pitch - Bryan's climb

with Bryan
Hidden 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/09 AltLd
stemill 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Great route. Led first pitch and second half of second pitch.

with Graham
Calder 20/Jun/09 AltLd dog
with Ste
Bristoldave 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 21/May/09 AltLd O/S

seconded crux pitch

Adam Booth 21/May/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Nicole Almond 10/May/09 2nd dog

there was a really amazing descent to get to the climb by walking along the sea edge. i found this tough and at the end of the day you could see ireland iom cumbria with a fab sunset with dad !!!

with Dad
Hidden 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Carly 14/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with sophie
switch 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S

with Will H. Had the cliff to ourselves.

Adam Booth 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S


Ed Booth 21/Mar/09 AltLd
windy100 ??/2009 -
Hidden 02/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Tom Eagle 02/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

great third pitch. very surprised to pass a razorbill sat in a niche - didn't move a muscle!

with skygod78
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 19/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
centurion05 19/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with chris thorne
pete johnson 23/Jun/07 2nd
with Rob
mux ??/2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead
with Chris Lycett
rob1 16/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Williams
Tom M Williams 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Lead on the first pitch, hideously pumped on the second having got the footwork wrong, then got shat on by a very scared seagull

with Andy Hobson
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Dom Whillans ??/2006 AltLd
with a.crook
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/May/05 -
A Crook 20/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Now I could have climbed that second pitch all day

Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/03 2nd
nige pacer ?/May/03 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown ??/2003 AltLd O/S

Good route

with David Jones
jgordon75 02/Oct/02 Lead
with Luke Foulger
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jul/01 Lead
with Lee Corbett
Rich Kirby 23/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Ant
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 28/May/00 Lead O/S

Done this again as it's such a good route

Rock Fairy ?/Jan/00 2nd

Got hotaches!!

with Carl
chrishedgehog ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Chris J
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ratfeeder 01/Aug/98 AltLd O/S

led piches 1 & 3

with Phil
Hidden 07/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
WB ??/1998 -
charlesmfrench 05/Jul/97 AltLd O/S


with Mark Vandome
nuts and bolts ?/Jul/97 -
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
Andy Say 21/May/95 Lead
Hidden ?/May/95 Lead
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Sep/93 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/93 AltLd
roncaves 11/Oct/92 AltLd
with Martin Vimpney
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Hidden 04/Apr/88 AltLd
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/87 2nd O/S
with Andy K
uphillnow 04/May/85 Lead
with kate harper, Brian barker
GuyM ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
neilh ?/Jun/84 Lead
with dave croker
Hidden ??/1981 -
GeoffG 27/May/79 AltLd
with tony bowker
duncan ?/Feb/79 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ?/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Hidden 23/May/76 Lead
Dave Musgrove 19/Jun/71 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Martin Bennett 21/Dec/70 -

Was supposed to be "easy escape route" when we failed on Phaedra. Huh! Only just made it off the crag in the 4pm shortest day gloaming!

with Cec
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/68 AltLd
mikej 06/Apr/68 AltLd

Found this hard for VS

with Wil Hurford
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 66
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set