2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and sustained line with a tricky first pitch and a great crack on the second. Start 10m left of the chimney of Mammoth.
1) 6b, 32m. Climb up and leftwards across the lower wall to gain undercut flakes. Traverse right to the corner and small roof (good gear - put it in!) and make a couple of desperate moves up and left to gain the sloping ledge. Good belay up and right.
2) 6a, 30m. Move up right to gain the crack and climb it with sustained interest to where the angle and rock colour change. Continue more easily to a small stance.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the groove above to join the traverse line of Cordon Bleau (next page). Finish up this or make your way more directly over easy but loose ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Magnificent with a hard crux.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist, Wales Ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
accynez 6 May Show βeta
βeta: Brand new cemented in stainless steel peg on the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brand new cemented in stainless steel peg on the crux.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ted F 6 Aug AltLd dog
with Mike G
with Mike G
mcgovern 13 Jul AltLd
with Nastia
with Nastia
Hidden 13 Jul AltLd
MikePycroft 20 Jun AltLd dog Led p1 fell twice on peg pulled on it. Shower as Marcus finished the 2nd pitch. Interesting seconding
with Marcus
Led p1 fell twice on peg pulled on it. Shower as Marcus finished the 2nd pitch. Interesting seconding
with Marcus
JBO 16 Jun Lead O/S First pitch only, it started raining so we had to bail. Quite pleased with myself to onsight the crux pitch but gutted not to be able to carry on, the second pitch looked fab, and much more my cup of tea!
First pitch only, it started raining so we had to bail. Quite pleased with myself to onsight the crux pitch but gutted not to be able to carry on, the second pitch looked fab, and much more my cup of tea!
Katekeltie 15 Jun 2nd dog
markalmack 15 Jun Lead G/U Ballsed up the crux by trying to slap for something that wasn't a hold. You can hand jam most of the way up the 2nd pitch...
with Trouble Bird
Ballsed up the crux by trying to slap for something that wasn't a hold. You can hand jam most of the way up the 2nd pitch...
with Trouble Bird
Hidden 9 Jun AltLd rpt
ferdia 6 Jun Lead O/S Dreamy conditions today. Did citadel into Ramadan. First pitch of citadel is e4.
with Ben Silvestre
Dreamy conditions today. Did citadel into Ramadan. First pitch of citadel is e4.
with Ben Silvestre
James Oswald 19 May AltLd dog Great route. Fell off once seconding Ben on p1. Then took a monster whipper on P2 4m above my gear - not sure exactly where the line goes. Big flapper on finger from sharp hold. Unsure of the exact line - see Ben's comment.
Great route. Fell off once seconding Ben on p1. Then took a monster whipper on P2 4m above my gear - not sure exactly where the line goes. Big flapper on finger from sharp hold. Unsure of the exact line - see Ben's comment.
benkelsey 19 May AltLd dog Lead 1 and 3. Fell off the crux moves twice on lead then sent 3rd time - so hot! Wald took a huuuge flyer off p2 but pulled back on and finished as the sun set. He potentially went the wrong way as the line we took was quite wandering? Finished p3 at dusk and back to the bags for 10pm. p1 is coolest pitch I've ever (not) done. Had main cliff to ourselves.. unforgettable.
Lead 1 and 3. Fell off the crux moves twice on lead then sent 3rd time - so hot! Wald took a huuuge flyer off p2 but pulled back on and finished as the sun set. He potentially went the wrong way as the line we took was quite wandering? Finished p3 at dusk and back to the bags for 10pm. p1 is coolest pitch I've ever (not) done. Had main cliff to ourselves.. unforgettable.
accynez 5 May AltLd O/S Awesome. I led first and third.
Awesome. I led first and third.
mrblack ?? -
M_Robinson 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd Crux was desperate, and the second pitch a lot harder than it looks!
with Adam24B
Crux was desperate, and the second pitch a lot harder than it looks!
with Adam24B
Adam24B 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing route with a couple of moves on P1 that are significantly harder than any others on the route. P2 is very sustained with lots of 6a moves.
Amazing route with a couple of moves on P1 that are significantly harder than any others on the route. P2 is very sustained with lots of 6a moves.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Ed Booth 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p 1+3 another great route.
Led p 1+3 another great route.
Hidden 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Adam Booth 19 Sep, 2017 AltLd dog Just about seconded first pitch clean. Pumped off the crack 2/3 up the second pitch. Air time! Pulled back on and finished.
with Calum Musket
Just about seconded first pitch clean. Pumped off the crack 2/3 up the second pitch. Air time! Pulled back on and finished.
with Calum Musket
jonleighton 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 in very greasy conditions! Enjoyed it though. P2 good too.
P1 in very greasy conditions! Enjoyed it though. P2 good too.
Luke Brooks 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p2
Led p2
Sophie Nunn 16 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Slicked off the start of p1, next time in the dry!
with Ed Babs
Slicked off the start of p1, next time in the dry!
with Ed Babs
Hidden 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Misha 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S The guide book says P1 is notoriously cruxy - it sure is! There's a pretty much hands off rest in the corner niche before the crux and up to there it's a tough E3 5c, alternating some hard sequences with easier ground. Took me ages to figure out the crux, repeatedly going out onto the face and retreating back to the rest - I could just about reach the undercut but couldn't figure out how to move off it. Finally in a flash of inspiration I jammed L foot in the gear crack on the face, got the undercut and stepped through with R foot onto the sharp incut foothold L of the footjam, which got me into balance to move off the undercut into a pinch / fingerlock with R hand and onto the jugs above that. Brilliant! Double up on yellow and blue cams and take lots of extenders. The inverted peg mentioned in the guide is gone but there's good gear on the face so the crux is pretty safe (Peak E4 6b, ha!). The P2 crack looks straightforward but it's a lot steeper than it looks and, being an evil flared Gogarth crack on funky rock, gear is hard won. Eszter ended up following the left hand crack into P2 of Graduation Ceremony but lowered off at the pumpy crux, so I toproped up to there and led through. Climbing quickly on toprope, I didn't shake out enough and the crux section going up to and through the widening proved pretty pumpy but I pulled through ok. It gets easier above but the final bulge is tricky and covered in rock grass , a case of spot the holds! That pitch would easily be E4 on its own and looks pretty similar to P2 of Citadel, so I'm taking the tick! Will have to do P1 of GC into P2 of Citadel one day [Edit: did that with Eszter 24.6.18 - a good link up and the second pitch is actually a bit easier]. Eszter finished up P3, which is a contender for the most vegetated Main Cliff topout. Actually, no, they're all just as bad... At least this one was fairly solid even if it didn't look it!
with eszter
The guide book says P1 is notoriously cruxy - it sure is! There's a pretty much hands off rest in the corner niche before the crux and up to there it's a tough E3 5c, alternating some hard sequences with easier ground. Took me ages to figure out the crux, repeatedly going out onto the face and retreating back to the rest - I could just about reach the undercut but couldn't figure out how to move off it. Finally in a flash of inspiration I jammed L foot in the gear crack on the face, got the undercut and stepped through with R foot onto the sharp incut foothold L of the footjam, which got me into balance to move off the undercut into a pinch / fingerlock with R hand and onto the jugs above that. Brilliant! Double up on yellow and blue cams and take lots of extenders. The inverted peg mentioned in the guide is gone but there's good gear on the face so the crux is pretty safe (Peak E4 6b, ha!). The P2 crack looks straightforward but it's a lot steeper than it looks and, being an evil flared Gogarth crack on funky rock, gear is hard won. Eszter ended up following the left hand crack into P2 of Graduation Ceremony but lowered off at the pumpy crux, so I toproped up to there and led through. Climbing quickly on toprope, I didn't shake out enough and the crux section going up to and through the widening proved pretty pumpy but I pulled through ok. It gets easier above but the final bulge is tricky and covered in rock grass , a case of spot the holds! That pitch would easily be E4 on its own and looks pretty similar to P2 of Citadel, so I'm taking the tick! Will have to do P1 of GC into P2 of Citadel one day [Edit: did that with Eszter 24.6.18 - a good link up and the second pitch is actually a bit easier]. Eszter finished up P3, which is a contender for the most vegetated Main Cliff topout. Actually, no, they're all just as bad... At least this one was fairly solid even if it didn't look it!
with eszter
NDD 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Pat
with Pat
Patrick Hill 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Scottish Nick
with Scottish Nick
Hidden 27 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Ed Babs 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd dnf Unbearable sun trap day. 6b move felt impossible so i lowered off from the in situ metalwork. Great up to there.
with IainAM
Unbearable sun trap day. 6b move felt impossible so i lowered off from the in situ metalwork. Great up to there.
with IainAM
Uisdean hawthorn 12 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
samwillo 12 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16 May, 2015 Lead dog Led o/s in 1998 ish, felt much harder this time, led both main pitches.
with Max (France)
Led o/s in 1998 ish, felt much harder this time, led both main pitches.
with Max (France)
tim newton 1 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Quite greasy. The crux is safe, but since the demise of the peg you'd now fall a few metres. Only just made it through the crux, found it pretty desperate. Overall I found it quite a bit harder than positron.
Quite greasy. The crux is safe, but since the demise of the peg you'd now fall a few metres. Only just made it through the crux, found it pretty desperate. Overall I found it quite a bit harder than positron.
Rachel Slater 1 Sep, 2014 AltLd Fell off seconding on the crux of pitch 1 but leading pitch 2 was amazing which kind of made up for it.
Fell off seconding on the crux of pitch 1 but leading pitch 2 was amazing which kind of made up for it.
dan gibson 21 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tom Livingstone
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 21 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3.
Led P1 and P3.
Tom Livingstone 6 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S We did Hunger into Citadel - apparently one of the best combos around, and I'd now agree! Seconded P2, led P3.
with Gwen Lancashire
We did Hunger into Citadel - apparently one of the best combos around, and I'd now agree! Seconded P2, led P3.
with Gwen Lancashire
mike mo ??, 2014 -
The old James turnbull 24 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with will sim
with will sim
Hidden 5 May, 2013 AltLd
JRae 13 Oct, 2012 AltLd dnf tried to sneak it in after the needle. ran out of light so bailed off the first pitch after stripping gear from traverse. nearly got cut off by the tide too, well fun.
with mwatson
tried to sneak it in after the needle. ran out of light so bailed off the first pitch after stripping gear from traverse. nearly got cut off by the tide too, well fun.
with mwatson
mwatson ?Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf had to back off, light, tide etc.
had to back off, light, tide etc.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 20 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1 and 3, man I find Main Cliff scary! I was shaking for most of the first pitch. Good effort to Luke on P2!
Lead pitches 1 and 3, man I find Main Cliff scary! I was shaking for most of the first pitch. Good effort to Luke on P2!
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 Lead One fall, literally from the finishing jugs - greased off!
with Alex Haslehurst
One fall, literally from the finishing jugs - greased off!
with Alex Haslehurst
Alex Mason 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1 (Belayed above extinction/hunger which was a good place to belay from). Both pitches felt E4. First is E3 until the safe 6b crux. Second pitch is a real pumper.
with George Ullrich
Led P1 (Belayed above extinction/hunger which was a good place to belay from). Both pitches felt E4. First is E3 until the safe 6b crux. Second pitch is a real pumper.
with George Ullrich
Adam Long 23 Jul, 2011 AltLd Steady for the grade, E3-4 except for one move
with Ben Bransby
Steady for the grade, E3-4 except for one move
with Ben Bransby
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd
mike mo 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Russell Birkett 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent route
with Murdoch J
Excellent route
with Murdoch J
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Adam Lincoln 30 May, 2010 Lead
with Mick Lovatt
with Mick Lovatt
Hidden 24 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Steve Long ??, 2010 -
Pete Graham 2 May, 2009 AltLd
with malx
with malx
malx ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd
nige 12 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with richard kirby
with richard kirby
tuftynick ??, 2008 AltLd
with Kenton Cool
with Kenton Cool
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
pete johnson 28 Jun, 2003 Lead
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1999 Lead
with Andy Blain
with Andy Blain
andyblain ?Jun, 1998 2nd O/S
Steve Crowe 23 May, 1998 Lead Greasy, three falls off crux, but otherwise onsight!
with karin
Greasy, three falls off crux, but otherwise onsight!
with karin
Hidden 7 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
sadams 16 Jun, 1996 AltLd rpt
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 5 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
pete johnson 22 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Kath Pyke
with Kath Pyke
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
michael burrows 7 Aug, 1994 2nd 1 pt of aid
with andy boorman
1 pt of aid
with andy boorman
jfletcher 16 Apr, 1994 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1
with Nick Wharton
Led pitch 1
with Nick Wharton
Hidden ??, 1993 AltLd
Matt Clifton ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 16 Sep, 1992 Lead
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
DDDD ??, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
UKB Shark 13 Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Dave Douglas 27 Jun, 1989 Lead β
with Neil Brodie
with Neil Brodie
Steve Walker ??, 1989 Lead Great climb. Pretty hard too.
with paul entwistle
Great climb. Pretty hard too.
with paul entwistle
Neil McA 28 Aug, 1988 Lead Led both pitches, fabulous route. Sunny day but a short heavy rain shower soaked us on the half way belay and we had to wait an hour for Pitch 2 to dry out. Took a short fall on the P1 crux then got it second go.
with Martin Wilson
Led both pitches, fabulous route. Sunny day but a short heavy rain shower soaked us on the half way belay and we had to wait an hour for Pitch 2 to dry out. Took a short fall on the P1 crux then got it second go.
with Martin Wilson
sadams 13 Jun, 1988 AltLd dog Very, very hot day - got arses' well and truly kicked had to aid up top cracks. Got off after six hours tails between our legs and very sun burnt.
with Andy Mitchell
Very, very hot day - got arses' well and truly kicked had to aid up top cracks. Got off after six hours tails between our legs and very sun burnt.
with Andy Mitchell
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd
keefe 4 May, 1986 -
Dave Turnbull 2 Jun, 1984 AltLd
with Paul Greenland
with Paul Greenland
Mike Owen 30 May, 1983 Lead O/S
with Al Simpson
with Al Simpson
Ian Carr 3 Jul, 1982 -
with Mike Chapman
with Mike Chapman
duncan ?Apr, 1981 Lead O/S Led both pitches. 1 point of aid on P1 which was fairly standard at the time.
Led both pitches. 1 point of aid on P1 which was fairly standard at the time.
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Hidden 18 Jun, 1977 AltLd
Hidden ?Oct, 1976 2nd
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 19
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set