2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and sustained line with a tricky first pitch and a great crack on the second. Start 10m left of the chimney of Mammoth.
1) 6b, 32m. Climb up and leftwards across the lower wall to gain undercut flakes. Traverse right to the corner and small roof (good gear - put it in!) and make a couple of desperate moves up and left to gain the sloping ledge. Good belay up and right.
2) 6a, 30m. Move up right to gain the crack and climb it with sustained interest to where the angle and rock colour change. Continue more easily to a small stance.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the groove above to join the traverse line of Cordon Bleau (next page). Finish up this or make your way more directly over easy but loose ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Magnificent with a hard crux.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist.

Adam Booth 19/Sep/17 AltLd dog

Just about seconded first pitch clean. Pumped off the crack 2/3 up the second pitch. Air time! Pulled back on and finished.

with Calum Musket
jonleighton 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

P1 in very greasy conditions! Enjoyed it though. P2 good too.

Luke Brooks 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Sophie Nunn 16/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Slicked off the start of p1, next time in the dry!

with Ed B
Hidden 25/Jun/17 AltLd
Misha 25/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

The guide book says P1 is notoriously cruxy - it sure is! There's a pretty much hands off rest in the corner niche before the crux and up to there it's a tough E3 5c, alternating some hard sequences with easier ground. Took me ages to figure out the crux, repeatedly going out onto the face and retreating back to the rest - I could just about reach the undercut but couldn't figure out how to move off it. Finally in a flash of inspiration I jammed L foot in the gear crack on the face, got the undercut and stepped through with R foot onto the sharp incut foothold L of the footjam, which got me into balance to move off the undercut into a pinch / fingerlock with R hand and onto the jugs above that. Brilliant! Double up on yellow and blue cams and take lots of extenders. The inverted peg mentioned in the guide is gone but there's good gear on the face so the crux is pretty safe (Peak E4 6b, ha!). The P2 crack looks straightforward but it's a lot steeper than it looks and, being an evil flared Gogarth crack on funky rock, gear is hard won. Eszter ended up following the left hand crack into P2 of Graduation Ceremony but lowered off at the pumpy crux, so I toproped up to there and led through. Climbing quickly on toprope, I didn't shake out enough and the crux section going up to and through the widening proved pretty pumpy but I pulled through ok. It gets easier above but the final bulge is tricky and covered in rock grass , a case of spot the holds! That pitch would easily be E4 on its own and looks pretty similar to P2 of Citadel, so I'm taking the tick! Will have to do P1 of GC into P2 of Citadel one day. Eszter finished up P3, which is a contender for the most vegetated Main Cliff topout. Actually, no, they're all just as bad... At least this one was fairly solid even if it didn't look it!

with Eszter
NDD 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Pat
Patrick Hill 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Scottish Nick
Hidden 27/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Ed Babs 17/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Unbearable sun trap day. 6b move felt impossible so i lowered off from the in situ metalwork. Great up to there.

Uisdean hawthorn 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Sam
samwillo 12/Jul/15 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/May/15 Lead dog

Led o/s in 1998 ish, felt much harder this time, led both main pitches.

with Max (France)
tim newton 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Quite greasy. The crux is safe, but since the demise of the peg you'd now fall a few metres. Only just made it through the crux, found it pretty desperate. Overall I found it quite a bit harder than positron.

Rachel Slater 01/Sep/14 AltLd

Fell off seconding on the crux of pitch 1 but leading pitch 2 was amazing which kind of made up for it.

dan gibson 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3.

Tom Livingstone 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

We did Hunger into Citadel - apparently one of the best combos around, and I'd now agree! Seconded P2, led P3.

with Gwen Lancashire
mike mo ??/2014 -
The old James turnbull 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with will sim
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd
JRae 13/Oct/12 AltLd dnf

tried to sneak it in after the needle. ran out of light so bailed off the first pitch after stripping gear from traverse. nearly got cut off by the tide too, well fun.

mwatson ?/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

had to back off, light, tide etc.

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 20/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3, man I find Main Cliff scary! I was shaking for most of the first pitch. Good effort to Luke on P2!

Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead

One fall, literally from the finishing jugs - greased off!

with Alex Haslehurst
Alex Mason 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (Belayed above extinction/hunger which was a good place to belay from). Both pitches felt E4. First is E3 until the safe 6b crux. Second pitch is a real pumper.

with George Ullrich
Adam Long 23/Jul/11 AltLd

Steady for the grade, E3-4 except for one move

with Ben Bransby
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd
Russell Birkett 31/May/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent route

with Murdoch J
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Adam Lincoln 30/May/10 Lead
with Mick Lovatt
edinbed 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Pete Graham 02/May/09 AltLd
malx ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 13/Jul/08 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch. Flashed 1st.

with Nige
nige 12/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with richard kirby
tuftynick ??/2008 AltLd
with Kenton Cool
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
pete johnson 28/Jun/03 Lead
with Kevin Sales
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
andyblain ?/Jun/98 2nd O/S
Steve Crowe 23/May/98 Lead

Greasy, three falls off crux, but otherwise onsight!

with KM
Hidden 07/Sep/96 Lead O/S
sadams 16/Jun/96 AltLd rpt
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
pete johnson 22/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Kath Pyke
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
michael burrows 07/Aug/94 2nd

1 pt of aid

with andy boorman
jfletcher 16/Apr/94 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1

with Nick Wharton
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden 16/Sep/92 Lead
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1990 2nd
with Dave Barton
DDDD ??/1990 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 13/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
with Seb Grieve
Dave Douglas 27/Jun/89 Lead β
with Neil Brodie
Steve Walker ??/1989 Lead

Great climb. Pretty hard too.

with paul entwistle
sadams 13/Jun/88 AltLd dog

Very, very hot day - got arses' well and truly kicked had to aid up top cracks. Got off after six hours tails between our legs and very sun burnt.

with Andy Mitchell
Paul Clarke ??/1988 AltLd
with Len Cray
keefe 04/May/86 -
Dave Turnbull 02/Jun/84 AltLd
with Paul Greenland
Mike Owen 30/May/83 Lead O/S
with Al Simpson
duncan ?/Apr/81 Lead dog

1 point of aid

Hidden 18/Jun/77 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/76 2nd
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 16
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set