UKC

88m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another of the Main Cliff's big E5s. Start at a left-facing corner just beyond the start of Dinosaur on the sea-level approach, just right of the parallel chimney of Mammoth Direct, E5 6b.
1) 6b, 35m. Move up the corner, which gets harder the higher you go. At the roof, make a sustained traverse left to a rest on the arete. Commit to heading up to a pocket, peg, and try not to linger too long as the crux is reaching the niche above and a semi-rest on good undercuts. From here, power up the fins to the left of a red-coloured groove to reach a small ledge. Belay on the right.
2) 5c, 25m. Move right and climb the rib of the vague groove, until you can move back left into it by a peg. Carry on up the sustained groove and into a narrow left-facing corner, which leads to the spacious ledge of Dinosaur and Positron.
3) 5c, 30m. As for P3 of Dinosaur. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Main Cliff Big E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 08/Jul/17 AltLd
Misha 08/Jul/17 AltLd

A mammoth tusk! This was fucking hard, probably the hardest E5 I've tried to date. Got on it at 2pm, which was a bit early as the corner was out of the sun and so pretty damp. Fortunately it's only about E1. The traverse left was fine. Spent ages on the cramped semi rest on the arete psyching up and figuring out what to do. After some ups and downs, managed to slip off getting back down to the rest. Annoying at the time but I was never going to onsight this beast... Eventually figured out that I needed to use the crack out left featuring baggy jams. Still took me three goes to get to the hole without pinging off. Worth saving a cam 4 but there was a decent cam 3 as well. Peg is pretty old. There's a very poor rest at the hole. In fact it wasn't a rest at all, at least I don't normally feel sick on a rest! Ventured out into the headwall only to realise there was a lot of hard climbing still to come, so had a rest on the peg. Set off again, good moves but got the feet wrong, pumped out and peeled off. Had to reclimb the headwall, got to the big pocket, clipped the peg (serviceable) and slumped onto it. After a rest got up to the in situ thread (new but the thread is small) and old in situ cam, almost up to some good holds but made a mistake and pinged off again. Next go got the good holds but then got confused by the guide book which suggested going up and left, which looked hard - tried it but couldn't carry on, cue another rest. Up the red groove more easily next time and finally some easy ground. Took almost 3 hours! Eszter set to tusk on P2, which proved to be a tough and pokey E3. I finished up P3, which I had done 5 years earlier to finish Positron - probably a sustained E1 but it felt harder after all that had gone on before... Amazing route, got to come back to do P1 clean one day.

with Eszter
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/May/17 AltLd dog

Rested twice leading crux section on P1. Quite damp and spooked by the rotting peg! Came back to tidy up the next morning but was still wet...

Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 -
malx ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
malx ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 AltLd O/S

I led first (crux) pitch.

with Katherine Schirrmacher
Steve Crowe 03/May/98 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1990 -
Mike Owen 27/May/89 Lead O/S
with Steve Foxley
Steve Lewis 18/Sep/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
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