Misha 08/Jul AltLd

A mammoth tusk! This was fucking hard, probably the hardest E5 I've tried to date. Got on it at 2pm, which was a bit early as the corner was out of the sun and so pretty damp. Fortunately it's only about E1. The traverse left was fine. Spent ages on the cramped semi rest on the arete psyching up and figuring out what to do. After some ups and downs, managed to slip off getting back down to the rest. Annoying at the time but I was never going to onsight this beast... Eventually figured out that I needed to use the crack out left featuring baggy jams. Still took me three goes to get to the hole without pinging off. Worth saving a cam 4 but there was a decent cam 3 as well. Peg is pretty old. There's a very poor rest at the hole. In fact it wasn't a rest at all, at least I don't normally feel sick on a rest! Ventured out into the headwall only to realise there was a lot of hard climbing still to come, so had a rest on the peg. Set off again, good moves but got the feet wrong, pumped out and peeled off. Had to reclimb the headwall, got to the big pocket, clipped the peg (serviceable) and slumped onto it. After a rest got up to the in situ thread (new but the thread is small) and old in situ cam, almost up to some good holds but made a mistake and pinged off again. Next go got the good holds but then got confused by the guide book which suggested going up and left, which looked hard - tried it but couldn't carry on, cue another rest. Up the red groove more easily next time and finally some easy ground. Took almost 3 hours! Eszter set to tusk on P2, which proved to be a tough and pokey E3. I finished up P3, which I had done 5 years earlier to finish Positron - probably a sustained E1 but it felt harder after all that had gone on before... Amazing route, got to come back to do P1 clean one day.

with Eszter
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/May AltLd dog

Rested twice leading crux section on P1. Quite damp and spooked by the rotting peg! Came back to tidy up the next morning but was still wet...

Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 -
malx ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
malx ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 AltLd O/S

I led first (crux) pitch.

with Katherine Schirrmacher
Steve Crowe 03/May/98 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1990 -
Mike Owen 27/May/89 Lead O/S
with Steve Foxley
Steve Lewis 18/Sep/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
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High E6
Mid E6
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High E5
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High E4
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High 6c
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High 6b
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High 6a
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Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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