Rockfax Description
Another of the Main Cliff's big E5s. Start at a left-facing corner just beyond the start of Dinosaur on the sea-level approach, just right of the parallel chimney of Mammoth Direct.
1) 6b, 35m. Move up the corner, which gets harder the higher you go. At the roof, make a sustained traverse left to a rest on the arete. Commit to heading up to a pocket, peg, and try not to linger too long as the crux is reaching the niche above and a semi-rest on good undercuts. From here, power up the fins to the left of a red-coloured groove to reach a small ledge. Belay on the right.
2) 5c, 25m. Move right and climb the rib of the vague groove, until you can move back left into it by a peg. Carry on up the sustained groove and into a narrow left-facing corner, which leads to the spacious ledge of Dinosaur and Positron.
3) 5c, 30m. As for P3 of Dinosaur. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The black sheep of the E5 family with a powerful crux sequence on the first pitch and a typically intricate, bold and pumpy second pitch. Start at the left-facing corner between the chimneys of Mammoth Direct and Dinosaur.
1. 6b.Climb the the corner and traverse leftwards below the roof to a rest. Psyche up and power through the bulges above, on pockets (old pegs and big cams), until you can step left as the angle eases into the respite of a small corner. Breathe. Follow better holds left of the groove and climb the wall above, moving right to belay on a good ledge.
2.5c.Move rightwards from the belay onto a vague rib. Climb up using fins until it is possible to pull left into the groove (peg). Follow this, sustained throughout to exit via the left-facing corner at the top.
3. ?
FFA A.Pollitt

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Main Cliff Big E5s , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 6b , Stanner's E5-E7 North Wales

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