90m, 4 pitches. 1. (6a) Climb the corner left of the Positron/Eraserhead wall. As the wall steepens, trend a little left and then back right onto a sloping shelf below a bulge. Traverse right using sidepulls to jug, and good gear. Ignoring the crack which continues up and left (ET P1), step right again spanning across to the obvious large flake. Make powerful, but balancey, moves towards a jug on the arete. Gain the jug and pull round into Positron and climb over the roof above to belay as for Positron P1.
2. (6b) Pull through the crux of Positron pitch 2 into the groove of Alien. Teeter immediately left across the undercut roof until you reach a peg and good gear. Make powerful moves off undercuts up and right into the flake. Layback this until it runs out and make a big move onto a flat hold. Pull on further flat holds into P3 of Positron. Climb left through 2m the crux of Positron P3, then head straight up the crack to the bucket seat belay.
3. (5a) Climb the crack to the top of the pillar right of the belay. Step left and scramble up seagrass rock to the base of the black wall on the exit pitch of Dinosaur.
4. (5c) Follow Dinosaur's final pitch to the heather.

Andy Pollitt 12/May/1984

Ticklists: North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.


ClimberDateStyle
jonleighton 04/Aug Lead O/S

My first E6 onsight! Been thinking about this for a while and finally begged Emily to give me a catch which she graciously agreed to do. Got down there in the mid-late afternoon which I thought would give us enough time, but unfortunately another team had just started up Positron. So we had to hang out at the base for a bit, waiting til they left the shared P1 belay. P1 was fine but not a complete pushover. I then got on P2, feeling very nervous. After some faffing at the end of the traverse I committed and got up to the Positron crack without too much trouble. I then proceeded to get really pumped placing gear badly and generally doing more faffing. I nearly blew it making the moves up towards the bucket seat, but just about managed to hang in there. At this point the sun was going golden above the horizon and I knew for sure we were going to get benighted. Emily spent ages trying to get a stuck nut out of the belay before eventually giving up. She then fell off the traverse and was left dangling above the sea. Eventually she managed to prussik up the rope and make it to the belay. While all this was happening my wind shell somehow unclipped itself and dived into the sea. It was now almost completely dark. I linked the final two pitches together by head torch, slightly gripping with tired arms, rope drag and the inevitable bits of snappy rock you get towards the top of main cliff. Finally we both got to the top, not without leaving a nut in the back of the crack at the bucket seat though. I also couldn't get a nut out of the top belay either (turns out it's a lot harder in the dark as you can't see properly into cracks...) So this route cost me 3 nuts and one wind shell, quite an expensive day out! We got back to our bags around midnight feeling rather exhausted. A memorable one!

soph 22/Jul 2nd β

we just did pitch 1 - great rock, then did positron pitch 2

with Emma Twyford
Tom Livingstone 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome!! Led P2.

with Adam Russell
Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd
Alex Mason 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Bloody awesome. Led main pitch. (P1. E5 6a) Phoenomenal, intimidating, wild and pumpy. Best route on Main Cliff...

with George Ullrich
Adam Ellwood 17/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Did first pitch after nige backed off it, thought i'd leave the main pitch for another day.

with Nige
Hidden 07/Jul/07 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Apr/01 2nd

Great effort by Simon who almost onsighted the main pitch. I froze on the belay and was glad to be on the second! Incredible, forceful climbing

switch ??/2001 AltLd dog

led the 2nd pitch and made it up to Positron, before falling off with a sausage-burnin' pump...wild.

jfletcher 11/Aug/95 AltLd O/S

Graham Baxter AL, I led pitch 2 massively pumped!

with Graham Baxter
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 03/Jun/89 AltLd O/S

Mike W led pitch 1 and I led pitch 2. Awesome route.

with Mike Waters
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