6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Steep, sustained and frightening. Start from the left side of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide the ledge at the top of P1 can be gained by climbing over the pinnacle.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb slightly left up a steep wall, then head diagonally right to gain a large platform left of the pinnacle.
2) 5c, 30m. A cracking pitch, step left off the ledge and follow a diagonally line of weakness left passing a hard move to gain a chimney groove. Struggle up this to the overhang that curves up and left. This can sometimes be damp, try to ignore this and the rising panic as you become pumped, and follow the overlap up and left to a steep slab. Pull up and right across the slab to a gain a good stance below the rather ominous-looking chimney.
3) 5b, 25m. Another worrying pitch. Climb the chimney above. It is steep, strenuous and bold, not to mention a little friable in places. Reach the slab above by exiting the crack rightwards. Belay on the top of the slab.
4) 8m. Move down and right along the flake, to a belay at the base of the corner.
5) 4c, 13m. Climb the steep corner to a belay on the top of the upper pinnacle on Gogarth.
6) 5a, 28m. Move down left and traverse the wall to the foot of a crack. Take this to where it divides and follow the right fork until it is possible to move left round a rib to reach an easier crack. Belay well up the slope. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts on the ledge just past the Gogarth pinnacle. If the tides in you'll be able to do the first pitch of Gogarth instead. Crux can be greasy so pay attention to the conditions. The chimney is 'fragile' but has reasonable protection.

Great route, solid E3

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Adam24B 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Not the best conditions but was eager to get out, very hard for E3 unless bone dry I assume but good fun none the less.

albarnett93 23/Aug/17 2nd
with Adam Bowman
Ollie B 17/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

P5 & 6. Nice outing. Did p6 direct rather than traversing left, probably harder than 5a this way but who knows.

with T.Ripley, H.Dunn
jgordon75 23/Jul/17 AltLd

Crux was dripping wet and greasy, had to pull on gear to get round. Great atmospheric route. Finished up a different route left of where we should have been which added an e2 ish pitch that I think I've done before.

with Mark Harris
Hidden 09/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/17 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 08/Apr/17 AltLd dog

Led P2, and 4, 5 & 6. Traverse pitch was sustained but fine apart from going around the corner which was wet and felt impossible - had to aid through! The chimney pitch looked fine but was an ordeal to even second. Linked last 3 pitches together (not recommended, you really do have to belay far back!) and even those proved trickier than expected.

UncleMephisto 08/Apr/17 AltLd dog

P1 and 3. Full on from beginning to end. Traverse pitch felt hard even on second, to the extent that the chimney felt like a welcome respite. A really meaty route, and a great adventure.

Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
Hannes B 27/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Aidan
Hidden 09/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
geoff b 09/Oct/16 AltLd

Positron/Rat Race combination would be more accurate. Defeated by P3 of Positron we escaped up Rat Race. Try back & footing the chimney of Rat Race.

Hidden 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 2 and 3 and 4 in one 60m pitch. Also led P6.

with Adam Russell
Hidden 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Misha 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Andy W
Andrew Wilson 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Odds for me. Thought it was hard seconding the 5c pitch. Chimney was not as bad as it looked. Pumpy but more technical than thrutchy. Excellent.

with Misha
wi11 17/Jun/16 AltLd RP

Minus the 20m lob...much better

with Helen Wise
Brannock 29/May/16 Lead

Led p1 and 2, crux very greasy had to pull on a sling. Good lead from martin on the chimney then ran p5 and 6 together. Pretty wild route overall, no easy pitches.

jimxxx 29/May/16 AltLd dog

Fell off the crux on pitch 2 a couple of times as not strong enough and it was greasy . Had to pull on gear in the end . Ron pulled a large hold off pitch 3 and had a good fall . Great route and the fight I was looking for .

Martin Haworth 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3,5,6. Pitch 2 was greasy and felt very hard, pitch 3 is worrying, pitch 6 is great climbing and no push over! All in all a great adventure.

The Grist 22/May/16 AltLd dog

Disappointed to have to sit on gear on the second pitch. Very greasy conditions. Should have waited until later in the day. Found the third pitch quite harrowing.....even to second.

with Tom Doldon
Tom Doldon 21/May/16 AltLd dog

Had to pull on a sling on crux pitch. Was very greasy and damp. I lead the second pitch which was scary. Didn't like the route much.

manwithacam 15/May/16 AltLd

Pretty full on route, knackered by the top. The two easier top pitches are no pushover, and the penultimate 4c crack is a great pitch in its own right. Alan led the 5c pitch with style, I was happy to get up the chimney in one piece. Good adventure, and great full on day at Gogarth with almost perfect conditions. Psyched.

with Alan
Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/May/16 AltLd
with Ben Heason, Snort
Glyn 04/May/16 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 02/May/16 AltLd O/S

After Clare's 30th on Saturday night we felt a little tired so opted for this rather than something more meaty. Glad we did as I really enjoyed this despite certainly not feeling on top form. Led p2 and 4. Maddy got a bit wet on the top pitch but fortunately it blew over! The chimney isn't as bad as I always feared it would be.

with Maddy
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
robpartridge 27/Sep/15 AltLd
GraMc 27/Sep/15 Lead

hmm. cool route although I pulled off a block ( which had all my gear behind) on the final easy pitch. took the biggest fall of my life. very happy to walk away relatively unscathed

with rob
Ed Babs 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Alternative P1 of Gogarth at high tide & P3 chimney - not as bad as it looks. Then abb'd off the spike: 50m ropes ok if you head slightly right (looking in) to reach the ledges left of the pinnacle.

shaunhumphreys 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

after much discussion about how scary it sounded we ended up committing!! Wasnt as bad as guide makes out to be but was still pretty mega! lead P2 and 5 (ben strung 3&4 together) climbing got abit dull after pitch 3 but still worth it!

benkelsey 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Got the chimney pitch. Not as scary as the guide makes out but fully out there. Good route Shame the meat of its at the bottom.

with Shaun Humphreys
will9911 13/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
soph 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

Finished up last pitch of gogarth. Would make sense to link pitches 1 and 2 but the belay allowed for some great pics!

with Maria Pilarski
Hidden ??/2015 -
Ewan Russell 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

2nd, 3rd, and 6th.

with Tom Nichols
Hidden 15/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 11/Jul/14 2nd β
with Khalid, James McHaffie
khalidq 11/Jul/14 2nd dog

Great route marred only by my fall.

with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
markalmack 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

lead p2,3,4,6

with Ben
Ben1983 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

But conspicuously failed to second p2.

The old James turnbull 06/Jun/14 AltLd

One star here you kidding? Amazing route, I lead pitch 1 and 2 in one, no point in the first belay. John dealt with the chimney which is much better than it looks. You don't have to touch much of the loose stuff. Great couple of days

with John Crook
littleduck ?/May/14 2nd
with Tony Madden
tebs 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Big route. Very adventurous feel. Added the last pitch of devotee for a more sustained and even set of pitches. Adam led this and the chimney (omg) Sadie led pitches 1 and 5. I led the big pitch 2 and the crucial 8m downwards pitch. P2 was fully eyes on stalks trying as hard as possible. Pretty greasy but not terminal, doubled up on green dragons which proved absolutely essential as I placed both in the space of a foot while shouting "help! I'm off". Must learn to keep the self talk a bit more positive!

with Sadie, Adam
Simon Allcock ??/2014 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 5. fell on pitch 2 (crux)

with Wilki
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with John Yexley
wi11 13/Oct/13 AltLd dog

P2 fell of the crux, greasy P4 & P6 Long day! Super tired by the end of it, maybe not the best route to try having not cimbed for a while!

with Gwen L
breed 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ellis 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd
mark20 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
petekeron 22/Oct/12 AltLd O/S


with Jamie Barclay
JRae 06/Oct/12 AltLd

Good route, has everything.

with Liam P
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/12 Lead


with ben
Alex Mason 03/May/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route. A contender for the wildest E3 in Wales. Led the chimney pitch which is superb. What the fuck was Joe thinking when he set off up here? Legend.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Dangerous Dave 30/May/11 AltLd dog

Fell on the crux due to the mega grease!!

with Wild Beast
Adam Lincoln 29/May/11 AltLd

Skinhead was greasy as hell so bailed up this

with Mick Lovatt
Owain Llewelyn 24/May/11 AltLd

A proper Gogarth day out!

with Andy
centurion05 24/May/11 AltLd

Top route, great effort by owain. The crux is great and the chimney interesting. Worth E3 in my book.

with Owain
Martin Cleaver 13/May/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 13/May/11 Lead O/S
with martin cleaver
Pete Graham 01/May/11 AltLd
with Rick Graham
stevebarratt 19/Apr/11 AltLd
david morse 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Tried to run 1+2 together but went a bit high on the initial traverse. Placed too much kit and had to belay half way along p2. This meant I had to lead the chimney, a harrowing experience!

thomasadixon 26/Mar/11 Lead dog

Tried to avoid the wetness at the end of pitch 2 (we only did 1&2) and came off, used the holds in the roof and it was easy...shame.

with Mike
Anna_wells 26/Mar/11 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
gforce 19/Aug/10 Lead

Rained off the last pitch so didn't complete the route but had done the meat of it. A lifeboat came across to make sure we were ok once we had abseiled to the bottom again!

with Kath
mikeyjbs 30/Jun/10 AltLd dog
with christopher glasson
Hidden 18/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 23/Apr/10 AltLd
Pown 07/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
khawk 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with DT
Luke Brooks 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Francis
dodfoster 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with george ullrich and sam farnsworth
fennerz 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing climbing. linked pitch 1 & 2 together, Ed lead them, bit greasy the chhimny pitch was soooo ace! Dropped my shoe off the top :(

Ed Booth 02/May/09 Lead O/S

led all the main pitches and tom led the top pitch of gogarth to finish. Super greasy at crux, but amazing route. psyched for the e5's!

with Fennerz
mattyork2 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

1st, 2nd and fourth of five pitches. Found the 5c crux pitch hard and took several reverses before unlocking it. Overhanging chimney/crack must be really scary on the lead and the lats pitch felt no push over either. A good day- pleased to get out depsite ominous weather it was ultimately beautiful.

with John Vincent
Hidden 12/Apr/09 AltLd dnf
Bristoldave 12/Apr/09 AltLd dnf

Spanked! Fell leading traverse, finished pitch, but neither of us fancied the chimney.

with douglas
Brown 12/May/08 AltLd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 08/Jul/07 AltLd


with Dave Almomd
Hidden 28/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/07 AltLd
haydng ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Si
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
nickdonohue ?/Jun/04 Lead dog

Rested on pitch 2. Unfortunately from pinnacle I went too vertical at first (burning out on E5 ground!). Need to keep traversing left...

with Jim Barradale
pauldrew 26/Jul/03 2nd
pete johnson 26/Jul/03 -
Gus 24/May/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
frost ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with J Hubbard
Hidden 22/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 06/May/02 2nd
with KM
PaulTanton 04/May/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
mux ??/2001 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 29/May/00 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
pete johnson 13/May/00 AltLd
with Dave Wills
Seymore Butt ??/2000 AltLd
with Terry Holmes
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd dog

wet on crux..

WB ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Jez
Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead
Ched ??/1998 AltLd
with Mark Hamilton
nuts and bolts ?/Jul/97 -
Hidden 20/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
sadams 09/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Mar/97 AltLd

Atmospheric in wild weather

with Muir Morton
Hidden 05/May/96 Lead
Nick Biven ??/1996 AltLd O/S
duncan 20/May/95 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Cowflinger ?/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Tim Emmett
pete johnson 30/Apr/94 -
with Steve Findlay
crossleysm ?/Apr/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
mattnuttall 22/Jun/93 AltLd O/S

lead P1 (5c)

with Alan Holden
Dave Rumney ?/Jun/90 AltLd dog

crux wet

Hidden 26/May/90 AltLd
pete johnson 15/Apr/90 AltLd O/S
with Mick Green
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
steveboote ??/1989 AltLd
with Vic Belshaw
Hidden 01/May/88 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/88 AltLd
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
with Grant Farquar
keefe 04/May/86 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 26/Aug/84 Lead O/S

I led both main pitches. Big Route!

with Pete Finklaire
Steve Long ??/1983 -

Climbed this one a few times over the years.

Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1983 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Mark Kemball 25/Jul/82 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
Ian Jones ??/1982 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
charlesmfrench 29/Nov/81 AltLd O/S

L,2,2,L,L,2. Again on 5/7/97 with Mark. 2,L,2,L,L.

with Ian Milne
Falko ??/1981 AltLd O/S

Same day as Big Groove and Pentathol

with Howard Lancashire
Hidden 06/Sep/80 Lead
uphillnow 11/Jul/80 AltLd

Nigel got 5c pitch but mugged me into leading pitch 3 as he had been told it was scary

with Nigel Helliwell
William Robertson ?/Jul/80 Lead O/S


neilh ?/Jun/80 AltLd
with kevin glass
Hidden 31/May/80 2nd
mikej 11/Aug/79 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mike Owen 23/Jun/79 AltLd O/S

I got the crux pitch.

with Gavin Peat
Steve Lewis 06/May/79 Lead O/S
with Morty
Paul Clarke ??/1978 AltLd
with Mick Tolley, Andy Dunhill
Falko 12/Apr/75 AltLd

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".

with Howard Lancashire
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set