Rockfax Description
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a relatively amenable grade. The climbing is mostly pretty straightforward apart from the crux wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier, then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to find a small flake next to a slab that looks like it leads to oblivion. It is possible (maybe advisable) to abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel - see next page for overview.
1) 4a, 35m. Move out onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Below is a short chimney. Descend this and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake, and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab above. Then follow this slab/ramp left until you pass a possible small stance below a groove, continue traversing left a few more metres to below a chimney/groove, and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
j.anstee 12 Jul AltLd O/S Great route through interesting terrain. P3 initially is steep! 2&4
Great route through interesting terrain. P3 initially is steep! 2&4
Hidden 12 Jul AltLd O/S
Dizz 6 Jun AltLd rpt
with phil
with phil
Ralfy 6 Jun AltLd O/S Poor route but a traverse of main wall is cool. Cruz is easy then easy climbing to get gear.
with Liz
Poor route but a traverse of main wall is cool. Cruz is easy then easy climbing to get gear.
with Liz
J Whittaker 8 Apr AltLd O/S
with Tom Fleming
with Tom Fleming
steven 6 Apr AltLd
with Ian Selby
with Ian Selby
Chris Manasseh 31 Mar AltLd Led 1, 3 & 5
with Jonah Jones
Led 1, 3 & 5
with Jonah Jones
Ewan Russell 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Afterwards did MIA rescue practise on holyhead mountain.
with Chris Andrews
Afterwards did MIA rescue practise on holyhead mountain.
with Chris Andrews
Hidden 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
JemG 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
Flavio 24 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 24 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden ??, 2018 -
PaulTanton 6 Sep, 2017 Lead First two pitches are a bit of a walk. Gets better
First two pitches are a bit of a walk. Gets better
DubyaJamesDubya 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S An epic day out. Climbed Simulator to reach the start.
with Joe Harris
An epic day out. Climbed Simulator to reach the start.
with Joe Harris
GeorgT 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Henry Francis
with Henry Francis
dan-8990 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with WE, TH
with WE, TH
dr_botnik 26 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Climbed most of the pitches in trainers, led the crux pitch, got sunburnt but it was worth it
Climbed most of the pitches in trainers, led the crux pitch, got sunburnt but it was worth it
the power 26 May, 2017 AltLd
Dizz 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Helen boothman
with Helen boothman
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
beagly77 ??, 2017 -
Hidden 3 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Francois R 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd Average route. IV, V for the 3rd pitch.
with Jason
Average route. IV, V for the 3rd pitch.
with Jason
Hidden 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
lusonavigator 29 May, 2016 AltLd Great adventure. 7.5 hours. Demading route finding. Very painful feet throughout. Lead P1/P4/P5. P1 Retraced steps after no gear found on obvious lower traverse. Traversed higher up through cleaner section. Forgot to protect second coming down big block after corner onto belay. P2 Very enjoyable - all holds where they should be - exposed traverse. P3 - Hard moves up left crack then traverse right before mantelling for no better footholds. Delicate and runout above. Top-rope was conforting. P4 - Unexpected awkward chimney. Easy but liquened slabs followed. Belayed before arete. P5 - Easy liquened scrambling up to steep but easy (hence very appealing :) ) chimney.
Great adventure. 7.5 hours. Demading route finding. Very painful feet throughout. Lead P1/P4/P5. P1 Retraced steps after no gear found on obvious lower traverse. Traversed higher up through cleaner section. Forgot to protect second coming down big block after corner onto belay. P2 Very enjoyable - all holds where they should be - exposed traverse. P3 - Hard moves up left crack then traverse right before mantelling for no better footholds. Delicate and runout above. Top-rope was conforting. P4 - Unexpected awkward chimney. Easy but liquened slabs followed. Belayed before arete. P5 - Easy liquened scrambling up to steep but easy (hence very appealing :) ) chimney.
esther ?May, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 16 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Pete_Frost 16 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Mostly HS4b with a couple of moves of 5b. At the crux the wall to the right of the crack is easier. Fun outing. Very cold and windy the day we climbed it - I lost feeling in my toes!
with Blake
Mostly HS4b with a couple of moves of 5b. At the crux the wall to the right of the crack is easier. Fun outing. Very cold and windy the day we climbed it - I lost feeling in my toes!
with Blake
Hannes B 7 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with JenM
with JenM
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
AndrewP 29 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S A great adventure, mostly HS 4b with a short 5b crux. Good ropework essential. Done as 5 pitches so I could see Dan on the crux, using the optional belay mentioned in Rockfax P3.
A great adventure, mostly HS 4b with a short 5b crux. Good ropework essential. Done as 5 pitches so I could see Dan on the crux, using the optional belay mentioned in Rockfax P3.
DanielBryan 29 Aug, 2015 -
with AndrewP
with AndrewP
alexjz 10 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route had loads of fun! Lead P1 and P4. Got it wrong at P4 and ended up topping out as for Citadel
with Rob Partridge, Tom Nichols
Great route had loads of fun! Lead P1 and P4. Got it wrong at P4 and ended up topping out as for Citadel
with Rob Partridge, Tom Nichols
robpartridge 10 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
Dizz 26 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt To retrieve a cam from the previous week. 3.5 hours and v relaxed in day light this time :)
with Dave Frost
To retrieve a cam from the previous week. 3.5 hours and v relaxed in day light this time :)
with Dave Frost
Dizz 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd rpt Minor misdirection at the end caused fun and games - finished up the top pitch of one of the E5s!
with Rachael Ashdown
Minor misdirection at the end caused fun and games - finished up the top pitch of one of the E5s!
with Rachael Ashdown
mike mo ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
amccann 20 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 20 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S interesting to see the hard routes. belayed in a choss chimney by mistake - keeps you on your toes.
with amccann
interesting to see the hard routes. belayed in a choss chimney by mistake - keeps you on your toes.
with amccann
maria85 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Fun adventure
Fun adventure
hiyaneil 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with maria85
with maria85
davebrox 30 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Vanders
with Vanders
Hidden 10 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
rbharries 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Realy enjoyed it for the first pitch, but it got old really quick. just a lot of tentative walking really. the hard bit on the 3rd pitch is ace, but the rest of the pitch is dull. One star just for such a sexy location
with Greg Cain
Realy enjoyed it for the first pitch, but it got old really quick. just a lot of tentative walking really. the hard bit on the 3rd pitch is ace, but the rest of the pitch is dull. One star just for such a sexy location
with Greg Cain
jbb 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd dnf Turned back from the crux in rain and reversed the route, making it back to gearing up point just as it got dark. A good adventure but no tick.
Turned back from the crux in rain and reversed the route, making it back to gearing up point just as it got dark. A good adventure but no tick.
richardw87 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd dnf Enjoyed 1st 2 pitches, until it pissed it down...ben tried crux, but was put off due to everything being sopping wet...retraced steps. Great 1st outing to Gogarth...
with ben
Enjoyed 1st 2 pitches, until it pissed it down...ben tried crux, but was put off due to everything being sopping wet...retraced steps. Great 1st outing to Gogarth...
with ben
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with John Yexley, Dave Woodcock
with John Yexley, Dave Woodcock
cbeard 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles 25 May, 2013 AltLd
with ben1987
with ben1987
ben1987 25 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Cracking. Better than dream.
Cracking. Better than dream.
Glyn 19 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Bit too much veg
with Tom Weston
Bit too much veg
with Tom Weston
Jay C 16 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Clay C
with Clay C
Hidden 16 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
suds_01 4 Nov, 2012 AltLd
with Alaister begley, Jackson
with Alaister begley, Jackson
suds_01 15 Oct, 2012 AltLd
with Alaister begley, Jackson
with Alaister begley, Jackson
Hinchrn 12 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Amazing adventure. The last sequence on the last pitch is trick once your blinded with all the liken that you nock off.
Amazing adventure. The last sequence on the last pitch is trick once your blinded with all the liken that you nock off.
rustaldo 12 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S cordon bleurgh? thought it was a bit average overall, some good pitches/features though. HVS 5a *
with Hinchrn
cordon bleurgh? thought it was a bit average overall, some good pitches/features though. HVS 5a *
with Hinchrn
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S 5b was good but shortlived. more of that please.
with K.Bromfield
5b was good but shortlived. more of that please.
with K.Bromfield
Dave Almond 17 Jun, 2012 Lead Linked perfectly with Imitator. Good days climbing
Linked perfectly with Imitator. Good days climbing
Nicole Almond 17 Jun, 2012 2nd Crux move easy after the crux of imitator! Easy, relaxed climb.
Crux move easy after the crux of imitator! Easy, relaxed climb.
Duncan Campbell 3 May, 2012 AltLd Cool. Nothing to rave about, but it is a nice jaunt across the main cliff. HS with a 5b move or two. *
Cool. Nothing to rave about, but it is a nice jaunt across the main cliff. HS with a 5b move or two. *
Hidden ??, 2012 -
metal arms 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Kate Started up Emulator to hit the first belay.
Kate Started up Emulator to hit the first belay.
Fat Tim 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S I climbed pitches 1, 3 and 5. Joe did 2 and 4 with an interesting variation on pitch 4.
I climbed pitches 1, 3 and 5. Joe did 2 and 4 with an interesting variation on pitch 4.
joemallia 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S First pitch interesting to second descending steep grass with not much gear. Off route on pitch four in a loose, lichenous groove. Descended to the right stance and left a snaplink behind!
with Fat Tim
First pitch interesting to second descending steep grass with not much gear. Off route on pitch four in a loose, lichenous groove. Descended to the right stance and left a snaplink behind!
with Fat Tim
centurion05 24 Jun, 2011 AltLd The best bit about the route was being able to see the Positron headwall. A bit of a ramble with a straightforward crux. VS 5b
The best bit about the route was being able to see the Positron headwall. A bit of a ramble with a straightforward crux. VS 5b
williamsd79 24 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2011 -
David Sherratt 24 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 19 May, 2011 Lead
with karen dalzell
with karen dalzell
kdalzell 19 May, 2011 2nd
Lenny 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with John
with John
thomasadixon 26 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Top three pitches only, I lead first then seconded others. Nice pitch that I lead (bit of a ramble though after the start) others were a bit grassy.
with mwatson
Top three pitches only, I lead first then seconded others. Nice pitch that I lead (bit of a ramble though after the start) others were a bit grassy.
with mwatson
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
NB Pixel 16 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog Led P2, 4. First real sea cliff experience. Awesome snorting seals. Slipped on 5b move doing stupid things. Beautiful but easy in general... cool massive flakes.
Led P2, 4. First real sea cliff experience. Awesome snorting seals. Slipped on 5b move doing stupid things. Beautiful but easy in general... cool massive flakes.
Hidden 16 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
paulh1967 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
paulh1967 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Dizz 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S led p 2 and 4, with a direct finish on p5 up the corner. Very nice!
led p 2 and 4, with a direct finish on p5 up the corner. Very nice!
Martin Haworth 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd
melonmike 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
david morse 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S shame theres a 5b move in the middle, probably be the best hard severe in the country otherwise
with mikey R
shame theres a 5b move in the middle, probably be the best hard severe in the country otherwise
with mikey R
Hidden 18 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Em66 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Freg1
with Freg1
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Duncan Campbell 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S didnt really do cordon bleu did something far more interesting and highly recommended! tom led 1st pitch of cordon, and then 4th pitch of gogarth, I then lead the last 5a pitch of rat race, id say this mash-up goes at E1 5a, first 2 pitches are easy but the last one gave me some gogarth fear!!
with tom ...?
didnt really do cordon bleu did something far more interesting and highly recommended! tom led 1st pitch of cordon, and then 4th pitch of gogarth, I then lead the last 5a pitch of rat race, id say this mash-up goes at E1 5a, first 2 pitches are easy but the last one gave me some gogarth fear!!
with tom ...?
Tomprusk 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Did a combo of 1st pitch of this 4th pitch of gogarth and last pitch of rat race, about the same grade overall but maybe E1 5a
Did a combo of 1st pitch of this 4th pitch of gogarth and last pitch of rat race, about the same grade overall but maybe E1 5a
dts 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Really amazing route. Led P2, P4. Reaches parts of the cliff that you would otherwise have to be climbing E5! P2's Flake line is the best pitch, massive holds and huge exposure. The 5b move is more like 5a, but with p1's seriousness (loose blocks, vertical grass etc...) the whole route HVS 5a. Without p1 the route would be VS 5a IMO. Fully Recommend
with ajtay
Really amazing route. Led P2, P4. Reaches parts of the cliff that you would otherwise have to be climbing E5! P2's Flake line is the best pitch, massive holds and huge exposure. The 5b move is more like 5a, but with p1's seriousness (loose blocks, vertical grass etc...) the whole route HVS 5a. Without p1 the route would be VS 5a IMO. Fully Recommend
with ajtay
ajtay 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd Pitch 1 is probably the (psycological) crux and is easier to lead than second. The 5B wall is more like 5A, but you would probably hit the belay ledge if you fall off due to low gear. A brilliant adventure almost as good as DOWH but easier.
Pitch 1 is probably the (psycological) crux and is easier to lead than second. The 5B wall is more like 5A, but you would probably hit the belay ledge if you fall off due to low gear. A brilliant adventure almost as good as DOWH but easier.
Paul ablitt 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Hidden 30 May, 2009 2nd
KeithW 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Very unpromising start - thick green lichen & loose rock. But got much better as we went. Led 2 & 5.
with Guido
Very unpromising start - thick green lichen & loose rock. But got much better as we went. Led 2 & 5.
with Guido
Hidden 2 May, 2009 -
Hidden 10 Apr, 2009 2nd
Hidden ??, 2009 -
mrtom 20 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Bit of a one move wonder in terms of the 5b, most of it goes at about HS 4b, but still very enjoyable and wonders around some awesome parts of the main cliff
with Mike Stephenson
Bit of a one move wonder in terms of the 5b, most of it goes at about HS 4b, but still very enjoyable and wonders around some awesome parts of the main cliff
with Mike Stephenson
Brown ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
withey 29 Jul, 2007 AltLd dog All was fine until my partner pulled of a fridge sized flake high up on the crux pitch. For more details search Cordon Bleu in the Forum.
All was fine until my partner pulled of a fridge sized flake high up on the crux pitch. For more details search Cordon Bleu in the Forum.
Hidden 28 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
John Kettle 28 Apr, 2007 AltLd
ewen 28 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
fran04 ??, 2007 2nd
mux ??, 2007 -
The Grist ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
with Nick Allsop
Hidden 12 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 -
Mark Stevenson 26 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
My Gravity 23 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Big traverse. Not really that nice climbing as the rock is covered in dry green lichen. This doesn't affect friction that badly, but its just unpleasant.
with Angel
Big traverse. Not really that nice climbing as the rock is covered in dry green lichen. This doesn't affect friction that badly, but its just unpleasant.
with Angel
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby ?Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Owen Tomkins
with Owen Tomkins
NeilGriffiths 4 Feb, 2006 AltLd
with Dave Garry
with Dave Garry
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Sut 7 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2004 AltLd
with Rory Shaw
with Rory Shaw
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
pauldrew ??, 1998 AltLd
Phil West 25 May, 1997 AltLd O/S I led the first couple of pitches until after the crux. Weather scorching. Looking for the holds on the crux, my fingers peeled off and I flew off backwards, the view of seagulls flying below me as I looked between my legs was amazing! Hugh Banner had caught us up at this point, so we let them lead through while I composed myself. Led the route without further incident. 3rd leader fall.
with David Atherton
I led the first couple of pitches until after the crux. Weather scorching. Looking for the holds on the crux, my fingers peeled off and I flew off backwards, the view of seagulls flying below me as I looked between my legs was amazing! Hugh Banner had caught us up at this point, so we let them lead through while I composed myself. Led the route without further incident. 3rd leader fall.
with David Atherton
colin milton 7 Jun, 1995 Lead dnf did not finished due to being assaulted by a determined seagull. Pecking and fishy vomit. Made an unfortunate double with Great Western the following day.
with eric milton
did not finished due to being assaulted by a determined seagull. Pecking and fishy vomit. Made an unfortunate double with Great Western the following day.
with eric milton
eroica64 12 Apr, 1995 Lead Totally brilliant climb
with Paul Smethurst
Totally brilliant climb
with Paul Smethurst
tompercy 30 Oct, 1994 AltLd
with Rich Bull
with Rich Bull
Rob Davies 1 Jun, 1991 AltLd A scenic excursion
A scenic excursion
Ched ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn a Glanfor
with Glyn a Glanfor
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
Darron ??, 1990 -
with Jez
with Jez
Hidden ?Sep, 1987 AltLd
Hidden 3 Mar, 1985 AltLd
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Dave Turnbull 5 Jun, 1983 AltLd
with Nigel Birtwell
with Nigel Birtwell
Andy Say 12 Apr, 1982 Lead
MikeDowsett ??, 1981 AltLd dnf Turned into an epic.Having arrived at the stance below the crux, the leader fell from the crux and disappeared from view below his belayer.Some moments later bloody hands appeared from below. Abandoned climb to assist getting these climbers to safety. Had to down climb from my position.
with Jon Sharpe
Turned into an epic.Having arrived at the stance below the crux, the leader fell from the crux and disappeared from view below his belayer.Some moments later bloody hands appeared from below. Abandoned climb to assist getting these climbers to safety. Had to down climb from my position.
with Jon Sharpe
Hidden ??, 1980 -
clanger ??, 1980 -
Mark Kemball 4 Mar, 1979 AltLd
with Malcolm Littley
with Malcolm Littley
Hidden 5 Aug, 1978 Lead
jcw ?May, 1978 -
with Phil Bartlett
with Phil Bartlett
granitbahn ??, 1978 AltLd
Hidden 17 Apr, 1976 AltLd
Steve Lewis 6 Dec, 1975 AltLd
with Bob Powell
with Bob Powell
Rick51 15 Feb, 1975 AltLd
RichardMc ??, 1975 Lead O/S
with Mike Stagg
with Mike Stagg
mikej 15 Jul, 1974 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
pneame ??, 1973 -
mikej 10 May, 1972 Lead dnf
with E C/W
with E C/W
auldscotal ??, 1972 AltLd O/S Done on Sparky's outdoor course - was only VS then!
Done on Sparky's outdoor course - was only VS then!
Martin Bennett 27 Mar, 1971 -
with Jim Wigginton
with Jim Wigginton
Hidden ??, 1971 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 26 Apr, 1969 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
with Bob Knapton
Seymore Butt ??, 1968 AltLd
with Mick Briggs
with Mick Briggs
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set