Rockfax Description
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a relatively amenable grade. The climbing is mostly pretty straightforward apart from the crux wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier, then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to find a small flake next to a slab that looks like it leads to oblivion. It is possible (maybe advisable) to abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel - see next page for overview.
1) 4a, 35m. Move out onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Below is a short chimney. Descend this and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake, and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab above. Then follow this slab/ramp left until you pass a possible small stance below a groove, continue traversing left a few more metres to below a chimney/groove, and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

PaulTanton 06/Sep Lead

First two pitches are a bit of a walk. Gets better

DubyaJamesDubya 12/Aug AltLd O/S

An epic day out. Climbed Simulator to reach the start.

with Joe Harris
dan-8990 13/Jun AltLd O/S
with WE, TH
dr_botnik 26/May AltLd O/S

Climbed most of the pitches in trainers, led the crux pitch, got sunburnt but it was worth it

the power 26/May AltLd
with rob
Dizz 08/Apr AltLd rpt
with Helen boothman
Hidden 25/Mar AltLd
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
SAF 03/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p2 and p4

with Phil
Hidden 03/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Francois R 26/Aug/16 AltLd

Average route. IV, V for the 3rd pitch.

with Jason
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
lusonavigator 29/May/16 AltLd

Great adventure. 7.5 hours. Demading route finding. Very painful feet throughout. Lead P1/P4/P5. P1 Retraced steps after no gear found on obvious lower traverse. Traversed higher up through cleaner section. Forgot to protect second coming down big block after corner onto belay. P2 Very enjoyable - all holds where they should be - exposed traverse. P3 - Hard moves up left crack then traverse right before mantelling for no better footholds. Delicate and runout above. Top-rope was conforting. P4 - Unexpected awkward chimney. Easy but liquened slabs followed. Belayed before arete. P5 - Easy liquened scrambling up to steep but easy (hence very appealing :) ) chimney.

Hidden 16/Apr/16 AltLd
Pete_Frost 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Mostly HS4b with a couple of moves of 5b. At the crux the wall to the right of the crack is easier. Fun outing. Very cold and windy the day we climbed it - I lost feeling in my toes!

with Blake
Hannes B 07/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with JenM
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
AndrewP 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A great adventure, mostly HS 4b with a short 5b crux. Good ropework essential. Done as 5 pitches so I could see Dan on the crux, using the optional belay mentioned in Rockfax P3.

with Daniel Bryan
DanielBryan 29/Aug/15 -
alexjz 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

Great route had loads of fun! Lead P1 and P4. Got it wrong at P4 and ended up topping out as for Citadel

with Rob Partridge, Tom Nichols
robpartridge 10/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Dizz 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt

To retrieve a cam from the previous week. 3.5 hours and v relaxed in day light this time :)

with Dave Frost
Dizz 18/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

Minor misdirection at the end caused fun and games - finished up the top pitch of one of the E5s!

with Rachael Ashdown
mike mo ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
amccann 20/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 20/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

interesting to see the hard routes. belayed in a choss chimney by mistake - keeps you on your toes.

maria85 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Fun adventure

with Neil
hiyaneil 13/Jul/14 AltLd
with maria85
davebrox 30/Jun/14 Lead
with Vanders
Hidden 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
rbharries 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Realy enjoyed it for the first pitch, but it got old really quick. just a lot of tentative walking really. the hard bit on the 3rd pitch is ace, but the rest of the pitch is dull. One star just for such a sexy location

with Greg Cain
jbb 01/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Turned back from the crux in rain and reversed the route, making it back to gearing up point just as it got dark. A good adventure but no tick.

richardw87 01/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Enjoyed 1st 2 pitches, until it pissed it down...ben tried crux, but was put off due to everything being sopping wet...retraced steps. Great 1st outing to Gogarth...

with ben
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with John Yexley, Dave Woodcock
cbeard 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles 25/May/13 AltLd
with ben1987
ben1987 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Cracking. Better than dream.

Glyn 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Bit too much veg

with Tom Weston
Jay C 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Clay C
Clay C 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4. Soft for HVS, but a good way to see main cliff. Despite a misty morning the rock was mostly dry with only a few wet patches.

with Jay
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
suds_01 04/Nov/12 AltLd
with Alaister begley, Jackson
suds_01 15/Oct/12 AltLd
with Alaister begley, Jackson
Hinchrn 12/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing adventure. The last sequence on the last pitch is trick once your blinded with all the liken that you nock off.

rustaldo 12/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

cordon bleurgh? thought it was a bit average overall, some good pitches/features though. HVS 5a *

Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

5b was good but shortlived. more of that please.

with K.Bromfield
Dave Almond 17/Jun/12 Lead

Linked perfectly with Imitator. Good days climbing

Nicole Almond 17/Jun/12 2nd

Crux move easy after the crux of imitator! Easy, relaxed climb.

with Dad
Duncan Campbell 03/May/12 AltLd

Cool. Nothing to rave about, but it is a nice jaunt across the main cliff. HS with a 5b move or two. *

with Bubbles
Hidden ??/2012 -
metal arms 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Kate Started up Emulator to hit the first belay.

Fat Tim 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I climbed pitches 1, 3 and 5. Joe did 2 and 4 with an interesting variation on pitch 4.

joemallia 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

First pitch interesting to second descending steep grass with not much gear. Off route on pitch four in a loose, lichenous groove. Descended to the right stance and left a snaplink behind!

centurion05 24/Jun/11 AltLd

The best bit about the route was being able to see the Positron headwall. A bit of a ramble with a straightforward crux. VS 5b

williamsd79 24/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 -
David Sherratt 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 19/May/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
kdalzell 19/May/11 2nd
Lenny 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with John
thomasadixon 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Top three pitches only, I lead first then seconded others. Nice pitch that I lead (bit of a ramble though after the start) others were a bit grassy.

with Mike
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
NB Pixel 16/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Led P2, 4. First real sea cliff experience. Awesome snorting seals. Slipped on 5b move doing stupid things. Beautiful but easy in general... cool massive flakes.

with JT
Hidden 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian
paulh1967 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
paulh1967 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Dizz 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

led p 2 and 4, with a direct finish on p5 up the corner. Very nice!

with David B
Martin Haworth 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd
melonmike 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

shame theres a 5b move in the middle, probably be the best hard severe in the country otherwise

with mikey R
Hidden 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Em66 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Mat
Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Duncan Campbell 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

didnt really do cordon bleu did something far more interesting and highly recommended! tom led 1st pitch of cordon, and then 4th pitch of gogarth, I then lead the last 5a pitch of rat race, id say this mash-up goes at E1 5a, first 2 pitches are easy but the last one gave me some gogarth fear!!

with tom ...?
Tomprusk 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Did a combo of 1st pitch of this 4th pitch of gogarth and last pitch of rat race, about the same grade overall but maybe E1 5a

with Duncan
dts 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Really amazing route. Led P2, P4. Reaches parts of the cliff that you would otherwise have to be climbing E5! P2's Flake line is the best pitch, massive holds and huge exposure. The 5b move is more like 5a, but with p1's seriousness (loose blocks, vertical grass etc...) the whole route HVS 5a. Without p1 the route would be VS 5a IMO. Fully Recommend

Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd
greenclimb 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
KeithW 02/May/09 AltLd O/S

Very unpromising start - thick green lichen & loose rock. But got much better as we went. Led 2 & 5.

with Guido
Hidden 02/May/09 -
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
mrtom 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Bit of a one move wonder in terms of the 5b, most of it goes at about HS 4b, but still very enjoyable and wonders around some awesome parts of the main cliff

with Mike Stephenson
Brown ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
withey 29/Jul/07 AltLd dog

All was fine until my partner pulled of a fridge sized flake high up on the crux pitch. For more details search Cordon Bleu in the Forum.

A Crook 28/May/07 AltLd O/S

A Gogarth Epic, sideway abseiling, rebelaying, assisted hoists the whole works

with Duncan Hassell
John Kettle 28/Apr/07 AltLd
ewen 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
fran04 ??/2007 2nd
mux ??/2007 -
The Grist ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
Mark Stevenson 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
My Gravity 23/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Big traverse. Not really that nice climbing as the rock is covered in dry green lichen. This doesn't affect friction that badly, but its just unpleasant.

with Angel
Hidden ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Owen Tomkins
NeilGriffiths 04/Feb/06 AltLd
with Dave Garry
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2004 AltLd
with Rory Shaw
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Phil West 25/May/97 AltLd O/S

I led the first couple of pitches until after the crux. Weather scorching. Looking for the holds on the crux, my fingers peeled off and I flew off backwards, the view of seagulls flying below me as I looked between my legs was amazing! Hugh Banner had caught us up at this point, so we let them lead through while I composed myself. Led the route without further incident. 3rd leader fall.

with David Atherton
colin milton 07/Jun/95 Lead dnf

did not finished due to being assaulted by a determined seagull. Pecking and fishy vomit. Made an unfortunate double with Great Western the following day.

with eric milton
eroica64 12/Apr/95 Lead

Totally brilliant climb

with Paul Smethurst
tompercy 30/Oct/94 AltLd
with Rich Bull
Rob Davies 01/Jun/91 AltLd

A scenic excursion

Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn a Glanfor
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/87 AltLd
Hidden 03/Mar/85 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Andy Say 12/Apr/82 Lead
MikeDowsett ??/1981 AltLd dnf

Turned into an epic.Having arrived at the stance below the crux, the leader fell from the crux and disappeared from view below his belayer.Some moments later bloody hands appeared from below. Abandoned climb to assist getting these climbers to safety. Had to down climb from my position.

with Jon Sharpe
Mark Kemball 04/Mar/79 AltLd
with Malcolm Littley
Hidden 05/Aug/78 Lead
jcw ?/May/78 -
with Phil Bartlett
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Hidden 17/Apr/76 AltLd
Steve Lewis 06/Dec/75 AltLd
with Bob Powell
RichardMc ??/1975 Lead O/S
with Mike Stagg
mikej 15/Jul/74 AltLd
with Mike Byles
pneame ??/1973 -
mikej 10/May/72 Lead dnf
with E
auldscotal ??/1972 AltLd O/S

Done on Sparky's outdoor course - was only VS then!

Martin Bennett 27/Mar/71 -
with Jim Wigginton
Paul Clarke ??/1971 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill, FMC
Dave Musgrove 26/Apr/69 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Seymore Butt ??/1968 -
with Mick Briggs
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set