Rockfax Description
A scary route that has a steep start and a delicate and committing upper groove. Start below the right-hand side of an overhang, below the open groove. Move up to the overhang and make a powerful move to reach a poor peg and a good wire in the wall above. More sustained climbing leads up and left to the base of the flake/groove. Climb this past lots of poor gear to reach a small ledge near the top. Move up and left into a groove and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Nickc 18/May Lead O/S
with Jules
peter.herd 10/Apr Lead

Cool route. Just don't expect much meaningful kit and avoid pulling too hard!

with Murdo
Hidden ??/2017 -
eel 26/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Johnathon
Hidden 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 15/May/16 2nd rpt

feet hurt!

WB 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Good. Gear is a bit dodge - well mine was, but the climbing is not bad

Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
datoon 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with MJ
tim newton 04/Oct/15 Lead β
Rachel Slater 04/Oct/15 2nd rpt
markalmack 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Great route. Steady climbing with lots of dodge gear

with little tom
Ed morris 17/May/15 Lead O/S

First experience of North Stack. Climbed very slowly and placed everything! Awesome situation.

with Henry
esther ?/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
will9911 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
mynyddresident 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Windy as, damp at the start.

with KP
James Oswald 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Fairly steady but I'm not sure is be comfortable leading it yet.. Cool climbing with adequate gear

wolf.leeb 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Steady, never too bold and a great line.. Lots of gear although much of it in hollow flakes hence E4 5c.

with nic
mynyddresident 28/Jun/14 2nd
with wolf
Rachel Slater 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this since I saw the photo in the Ground UP North Wales. Great route.

Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 10/Jun/14 2nd β
with George
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 27/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
edmitchell 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Lots of gear, not much of it very good!

Adam Booth 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Amazing climb, JUST enough gear to be happy pressing on. Hadn't read any of the comments on here beforehand, but it seems at least a couple of people have fallen on that old rusty peg! I wasn't too psyched to try it!

morganator 01/May/13 Lead

Pulled hold off, fell but peg held

with Calum Muskett
Alex Mason 16/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Think this was the 6th time I've done the route. First time I've led it clean. (14/8/2008):Fell off about 6foot from the peg due to mega pump, then reeve lead it and i seconded. Glad i fell off when i did or it could have been nasty. the highlight of a terrible day.

with Gwen Lancashire, Duncan Campbell, Ben R, Andy Reeve
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd
soph 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Andy Reeve
Alex Mason 10/Aug/12 2nd
with Ben R
Bennykr 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Was so warm half way up, never felt desperate but you wouldnt want to fall off

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Kat Spinney
C coldwell-storry 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Iron Mike
Duncan Campbell 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant, got a bit pumped and therefore terrified up to the peg, which made the crux seem tricky, but it is positive and all there. The rest isn't too strenuous and there are regular jugs and places to stand more or less in balance. Not much bomber kit on it, though the end is an absolute steep juggy treat with a bomber runner below! My hardest route to date?

with Mason
Adam Lincoln 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Mick Lovatt
Jordan B 30/Apr/11 2nd
with Naomi Buys
owenH ??/2011 -
jacobjlloyd 22/Aug/10 2nd β

Very enjoyable sustained and technical wall climbing, though I expect it would have felt quite a lot more serious from the sharp end!

with Felix
feilx 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jake
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
harvie 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
dodfoster 21/May/09 Lead O/S
with dave gill
Toby Dunn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
tonanf ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with john sun
morganator 31/May/08 2nd
with Stan Halstead
mr mills ??/2008 Lead O/S

I stand corrected ! I did sarah green by mistake, bottom felt more like 6a

with ioan d
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Ed Booth 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 Lead O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
haydng ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Si
spidey 15/Sep/03 2nd
with irish si
tompercy ?/Mar/03 2nd
with Tom Bridgeland
Steve Crowe 23/Jun/01 2nd rpt

Karin led this time.

with KM
sadams 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
phil64 01/Apr/00 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/96 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Aug/95 2nd
with Nick Ashton
PaulTanton 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S

Really good route. I remember getting a good wire near the peg as a backup. The moves left from the peg into the grove are the crux. Good tip that someone told me is to keep your left hand rope free for the groove. There is a good wire, in good rock, just as you pull into the groove. After that it's just steady, but don't fall off.

with Talk me to death Pete
Johnny Baker ??/1994 -
with Nigel Birtwell
Steve Crowe 31/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with KM
jfletcher 30/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with David Gilkes
Rich Kirby 27/Jun/93 Lead O/S

From recollection our warm up for the Cad. Found his route pretty scarey, but never that hard..just kept on moving,hoping "there must be good gear a bit higher", never really getting any until the hard climbing over. Don't think I'd lead it again.

with Phil
Hidden 02/May/93 Lead
crossleysm ?/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
keefe ??/1988 -
Pedro50 09/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Al Austin
Dave Musgrove 17/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Super pitch. Just my style. Technical but never strenuous. Lots of gear but would any single piece hold, hmmm?

with Kim Greenald
Neil R 21/Jun/86 2nd O/S
with Mark
neilh 05/May/86 2nd
with dave marsh
jon 05/Apr/86 Lead
with H
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
ukb & bmc shark 11/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Seb Grieve
andy gittins ??/1985 -
duncan ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Dave Turnbull 17/Mar/84 -
with Paul Greenland
Mike Owen 17/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Andy Pollitt
Mark Kemball 13/Jul/80 Lead
with Steve Finch
Paul Clarke ??/1979 Lead
with Not Sure
Hidden 02/Sep/78 2nd
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High E5
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Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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