2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Good steep climbing with an enigmatic crux. Start below a crack, close to the left-hand end of the crag, just right of Bezel's groove.
1) 5b, 35m. A steep start gains the crack/groove, climb this to the roof using some pockets near the arete. A hard move through the roof leads up to a reasonable ledge.
2) 4c, 12m. The large wide crack on the left is slightly loose and blocky, but it does lead to the top. Alternatively, abseil off a spike to avoid this pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious crack/corner line just right of Bezel, steep but with big holds on the left hand wall. Good route

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 20/Aug Lead O/S
Misha 22/Jul Lead O/S

Led in one pitch with a direct finish. P2 is harder than it looks. Good climbing, steep but not too hard and has two hands off rests (one off a knee bar). Linked in the wide crack directly above the P1 crack, which was quite tricky and features some sandy and loose rock. Think the 4c official finish was further left, this was more like scary E2 5b. Abbed off leaving gear, then after doing Energy Crisis left a sling and krab which Sophie had found and abbed off that. Best to ab off the spike at the top of P1 (tat could do with replacing). Cam 3 useful. Good warm up.

with Eszter
tonevert 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Paloma
williap 28/May Lead O/S

Stayed long on the arête...made it somewhat harder to say the least!

Duncan Campbell 10/Apr Lead O/S

The warm up on a cold day. Good sustained climbing. A little bold as you begin the layback section but fine after that. Strange having to put gear in again!

with Bubbles
Mike_Hayes 09/Oct/16 2nd
with Mike Lea
Hidden ?/Oct/16 -
Hidden 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
frejashannon 25/Jul/16 AltLd
Droyd 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

P1 only, well good.

Will Mortimer 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
kermit_uk 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Short tough section before fully in the groove then steady away.

Mike Dudley 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Rachel P1 (main pitch), me P2. Steep, committing climbing on P1 - a good lead by Rachel - seemed high in grade.

with Rachel Somerville
Rachel S 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

v good. Not sure the roof is the crux, that move was much easier than I thought it would be. The pumpy steep moves below were more fall offable IMHO.

with Mike D
bigdrew 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Cam
JenShelley 11/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
LJKing 29/May/16 AltLd dog

Hard and horrible!

with Paul Clarkson
Dave Lyon 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden 22/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/16 AltLd O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead β
Tenntenntuihn 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Bold and serious. I would guess that it feels like E2 if you generally climb E4. I would say E3, hard 5b

with Cat Higgs
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd
mynyddresident 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Bit run out in middle but may have been gear? Roof a bit tricky

with Tony P
Hidden 06/Aug/15 2nd rpt
pete johnson 06/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Chris_barr 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
willoates ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Luke
Mike_Hayes 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Dizz 27/Jun/15 2nd


with EJ
robpartridge 04/May/15 2nd
with John Burrow
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
irish paul 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steveb2006 14/Aug/14 Lead

A fairly sustained effort especially after having too much red wine the night before

with LC
Rich Kirby 30/Jul/14 2nd rpt

We then had a foray on a smeggy mammoth direct.

Tom Livingstone 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S


with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden 10/Jun/14 AltLd
The old James turnbull 05/Jun/14 2nd
with John Crook
Rachel Slater 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jake Young 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
James Oswald 26/May/14 2nd O/S

Seconded Nick, ace.

with Nick Duboust
NDD 26/May/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 25/May/14 2nd rpt
The Grist 25/May/14 Lead O/S
switch 03/May/14 2nd
with Will, Leanne
Hidden 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S
rbharries 04/Mar/14 2nd dog

well good.

with neils EW
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
leeds_belle 24/Aug/13 AltLd dog

P1 was was lovely. Generous holds, steep with some lovely moves. Had some difficulty getting over the bulge. I lead P2, my first E2 of any description. Not technically difficult but a chossy nightmare! Gear was optimistic and every hold moved. Lead P2 clean.

James Oswald 05/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Really pumpy, Jon had to rest twice (warm up). Only just clean..

will9911 ??/2013 Lead O/S
WB 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

better than I thought it would be. There was even some good climbing on the second pitch.

with Guy
wi11 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Hard 1st pitch, poor 2nd pitch, best to ab off after 1st pitch

with Max
Rob Pitt 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead β
Martin Haworth 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Not happy with the gear, so I backed off.

PaulTanton 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead β
Dave Foster 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Full fat E2.

with Si 2
sam820 12/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
Owain Llewelyn 11/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Doddy
Hidden ??/2012 -
saintlade ??/2012 -

First pitch is never the stated 37m in the select guide, sandbagged myself into stringing p1 + p2 together as thought I hadn't gone far enough. Some big gear would have been useful for top pitch.

Hidden 13/Nov/11 AltLd
Ewan Russell 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Connor
dan ely 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with helen
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 30/May/11 Lead O/S
with Joe Bertalot
victim of mathematics 20/May/11 2nd dog

2 rests due to total arm failure. Good climbing, but steeeeeeep.

soph 20/May/11 Lead O/S
laurelfan 14/May/11 AltLd
with Tania
Jonas Paulsson 11/May/11 2nd

Only climbed the first pitch. Tough one. Tried to lead but backed down. Seconded clean.

with Jacques Lepesant
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Alex Mason 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Some quality climbing, good and tricky to sort gear. i wouldnt argue with E3 but i had no big gear. The thing about big holds out left is pretty bollocks. lowered off first pitch. could do with re-threading soon. you would need to cut the old stuff and take some thin tape.

centurion05 01/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 01/Mar/11 Lead
with Andy
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
datoon 03/May/10 2nd O/S
with K
khawk 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with DT
barni 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with long jon
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
switch 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 25/May/09 Lead
with Tanya Milner
anguskille 02/May/09 Lead O/S

brilliant climb, gets a bit spicy if you get pumped on the runout on the first pitch

with Alex Bromhead
Sgt. Vest 22/Feb/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Feb/09 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/08 2nd O/S
crag_monster 11/Jun/08 AltLd
crag_monster ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Aug/07 2nd dog
ksjs 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

i thought id cruise this - no sir! this felt hard at E2 but it doesnt warrant E3. very very good and quite pumpy / sustained, good value. big gear - hexes of use.

nige 17/Jun/06 Lead
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 17/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Nige
frost ?/Jun/06 2nd
with N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths 18/Jul/04 AltLd
with Simon Frost
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/03 Lead O/S
tompercy ?/Mar/03 2nd
with Tom Bridgeland
pete johnson 05/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Nell
TimJM ?/May/01 Lead O/S

Pulled a huge boulder on myself at the very top. Petrified all the climbers on lower tier when it fell off.

with Dave Reynolds
Hidden 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/99 2nd
with Tom Rainbow
Roget 17/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden 16/Jul/98 AltLd
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
duncan 20/May/95 Lead rpt
with Dan Donovan
crossleysm ?/Apr/94 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Apr/90 2nd
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 09/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with David
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
duncan ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
jon 31/Mar/84 Lead
with H
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Steve Lewis 14/Jul/77 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Hidden 11/Apr/77 AltLd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set