Rockfax Description
The wall left of Energy Crisis. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch. Protection is just about adequate. Start beneath the left-hand of two wide cracks left of The Ramp.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb thin slabs, past a quartz spike, to reach the overhang - many slings required. Make a hard move right and climb small ledges to gain the belay on The Ramp.
2) 5a, 25m. Finish up The Ramp P2. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not the normal style of climbing, blobs for holds and not much kit. Good cam just before the insitu tat, which doesnt look that good.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pete johnson 17 Aug Lead rpt
MikePycroft 17 Aug 2nd rpt
lanky 10 Jun Lead P1 only, traversed too far at top onto ramp.
with Del
P1 only, traversed too far at top onto ramp.
with Del
Mihkel 25 May 2nd
with Rich Manterfield
with Rich Manterfield
Dan Arkle 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd led 2nd. good fun
with eszter
led 2nd. good fun
with eszter
Misha 17 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Bold in places but pretty steady, especially if dry - which it wasn’t! To be fair, most of the holds were just a bit damp but some were worse. I took ages as followed the brief from Tim N to place lots of gear. There’s a fair bit available but it’s not always good and there are a few small runouts (take lots of thin slings and a cam 4, good placement half way up albeit on only 3 lobes). Average for the grade. Abbed off after P1 and went on to toprope a VS at Castell Helen, which was bone dry and a walk in the park by comparison! Tim O did the Eternal Optimist in the rain before this - strong! BMG rock induction test.
with tjoliver, Tim Neill
Bold in places but pretty steady, especially if dry - which it wasn’t! To be fair, most of the holds were just a bit damp but some were worse. I took ages as followed the brief from Tim N to place lots of gear. There’s a fair bit available but it’s not always good and there are a few small runouts (take lots of thin slings and a cam 4, good placement half way up albeit on only 3 lobes). Average for the grade. Abbed off after P1 and went on to toprope a VS at Castell Helen, which was bone dry and a walk in the park by comparison! Tim O did the Eternal Optimist in the rain before this - strong! BMG rock induction test.
with tjoliver, Tim Neill
Hidden 17 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Michael Bortoluzzi 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Easy climbing (5a?), albeit on pinches and guppies, but a little bold until the bomb shelter at the top of the crack, around the tat. Abbed off so rich could go take some falls on Energy Crisis. Had done p2 before
Easy climbing (5a?), albeit on pinches and guppies, but a little bold until the bomb shelter at the top of the crack, around the tat. Abbed off so rich could go take some falls on Energy Crisis. Had done p2 before
Richard Kendrick 4 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
peter.herd 4 May, 2018 2nd
with Uisdean Hawthorn
with Uisdean Hawthorn
wynaptomos 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 23 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Felt like a walk after afreet street
Felt like a walk after afreet street
Alex Mason 23 Feb, 2018 2nd rpt
Sut ??, 2018 -
Mike W 8 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 8 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S The Ramp pitch
with Mike W
The Ramp pitch
with Mike W
soph 22 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Lenny 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Hidden
with Hidden
Greg Cunningham 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 24 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
with Greg Cunningham
with Greg Cunningham
papashango 28 May, 2017 2nd
pete johnson 28 May, 2017 Lead rpt
BC 23 May, 2017 Lead G/U Did P1. Can't claim the onsight as my chalk bag apparently decided to unclip itself from my waist, figures! Came down and lead again I found this to be my style (no jams).
Did P1. Can't claim the onsight as my chalk bag apparently decided to unclip itself from my waist, figures! Came down and lead again I found this to be my style (no jams).
JackM92 23 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Found this pretty hard, just got it onsight. Seriously bold P1, glad I had P2.
Found this pretty hard, just got it onsight. Seriously bold P1, glad I had P2.
pete johnson 5 May, 2017 Lead rpt
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 5 May, 2017 2nd Proper E2 5b; never strenuous but always worrying because it's so sparsely protected.
Proper E2 5b; never strenuous but always worrying because it's so sparsely protected.
Flavio 1 Apr, 2017 2nd
JendeHoxar 1 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
DaveThexton 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 13 Aug, 2016 2nd
with rich howells
with rich howells
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 23 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
with geoff b
with geoff b
Will Mortimer 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Steady climbing with very spaced gear!
with Droyd
Steady climbing with very spaced gear!
with Droyd
geoff b 23 Jul, 2016 2nd Tricky little number for which I was glad to have a rope above me.
Tricky little number for which I was glad to have a rope above me.
Mr Sparkle 17 Jul, 2016 2nd
Mike_Hayes 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Steve Crowe 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Rich Kirby 14 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
Adam Ellwood 14 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Nice route
Nice route
MikePycroft 6 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Felt bold struggled stepping onto the ledge at the top
Felt bold struggled stepping onto the ledge at the top
pete johnson 6 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
markalmack 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Rachel Huxley
with Rachel Huxley
Hidden 8 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 2nd
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
Ralfy 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Bold and 3d climbing, felt very easy but i felt i was climbing well(and patiently)
with Lenny
Bold and 3d climbing, felt very easy but i felt i was climbing well(and patiently)
with Lenny
Lenny 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitch ,2
with Ralfy
Pitch ,2
with Ralfy
James Oswald 26 May, 2014 2nd O/S Seconded Nick, ace.
with Nick Duboust
Seconded Nick, ace.
with Nick Duboust
NDD 26 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2014 Lead rpt
The Grist 25 May, 2014 2nd
Hidden 27 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 13 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2014 Lead
Al Evans ??, 2014 -
with Jim Moran
with Jim Moran
Seymore Butt ??, 2014 Lead
with Dave Platt
with Dave Platt
Glenn Sutcliffe 9 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with Pete Cresswell
with Pete Cresswell
Abi Chard 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led second pitch - second pitch of the Ramp
Led second pitch - second pitch of the Ramp
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
dan gibson 25 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 25 Jul, 2013 2nd wet and soapy.. tricky finishing moves.
with dan
wet and soapy.. tricky finishing moves.
with dan
The old James turnbull 24 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with will sim
with will sim
Hidden 24 Jun, 2013 Lead
miastacey 29 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
with Heather Clarke
willoates 5 Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
Ledgelaw 7 Jul, 2012 2nd
Duncan Campbell 29 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led Pitch 2 as shared with the ramp, the step right really is blind! Brilliant route, pitch one is not as juggy as it looks from the deck!
with Tom Grant
Led Pitch 2 as shared with the ramp, the step right really is blind! Brilliant route, pitch one is not as juggy as it looks from the deck!
with Tom Grant
Jillybean 24 Jun, 2012 2nd Steeper then it looks but steady climbing, with a tricky move near the top
with Brad
Steeper then it looks but steady climbing, with a tricky move near the top
with Brad
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Tom Doldon 4 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
with sam simpson 48
with sam simpson 48
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Dan Hale 19 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
sam820 12 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Murdoch
with Murdoch
Owain Llewelyn 11 Apr, 2012 Lead rpt
with Doddy
with Doddy
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Alex Mason 14 Jul, 2011 Lead rpt After reversing energy crisis with the intention of stripping both routes on abb! Much harder work than expected involving lots of awkward downclimbing and dangerous traversing.
with Laura Perry
After reversing energy crisis with the intention of stripping both routes on abb! Much harder work than expected involving lots of awkward downclimbing and dangerous traversing.
with Laura Perry
Hidden 18 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 29 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
with Mick Lovatt
ksjs 9 May, 2011 2nd O/S How good, got to lead this some time. Done in 1 pitch finishing up The Ramp.
with Paul S
How good, got to lead this some time. Done in 1 pitch finishing up The Ramp.
with Paul S
Hidden ?May, 2011 -
mr mills 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Elfyn (chang)
with Elfyn (chang)
mynyddresident 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd 1st pitch.
with wolf, Kelly
1st pitch.
with wolf, Kelly
wolf.leeb 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with kelly, mynyddresident
with kelly, mynyddresident
centurion05 1 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 1 Mar, 2011 2nd
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Rich Kirby 16 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
with Craig Smith
with Craig Smith
ellis 15 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
with Tom Bridgeland
Ewan Russell 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S lead first pitch, awesome geology!
lead first pitch, awesome geology!
Dave Warburton 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Nice Rock on first pitch. I led Second.
Nice Rock on first pitch. I led Second.
Hidden 17 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
C Mclean 8 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
with Phil Wilkinson
with Phil Wilkinson
porridgefan 8 Nov, 2009 2nd O/S
with Chris Mclean
with Chris Mclean
Alex Mason 30 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Led second pitch. First is dead funky.
with matt burdekin
Led second pitch. First is dead funky.
with matt burdekin
Hidden 30 Sep, 2009 Lead
Luke Brooks 1 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Led P1
with Tom Eagle
Led P1
with Tom Eagle
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead
Hidden 8 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Al Leary
with Al Leary
tigertiger ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
barni 18 Jul, 2007 AltLd
with Paul James
with Paul James
nige 16 Sep, 2006 Lead
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
JMarkW 11 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Lee McAvoy
with Lee McAvoy
datoon 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with RT
with RT
Hidden 27 May, 2006 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?May, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Tyler
with Tyler
GuyM ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2004 -
steveb2006 5 May, 2002 Lead
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Tom Briggs ??, 2001 -
geoff b 17 Aug, 2000 AltLd I remember thinking this was dead scary to lead; I still think that!
with Nell
I remember thinking this was dead scary to lead; I still think that!
with Nell
sadams 28 May, 2000 Lead
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Roget 17 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
pauldrew ??, 1999 2nd
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 1995 AltLd
duncan 20 May, 1995 Lead rpt
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
pete johnson 21 Apr, 1992 Lead O/S
with Richard Yorke
with Richard Yorke
Hidden ?Apr, 1992 AltLd
pete johnson 21 Mar, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 1991 2nd
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 2 Jul, 1988 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 31 Mar, 1984 Lead
Ian Jones ??, 1983 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Neil McA 26 May, 1982 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
with Steve Andrews
mikej 23 Sep, 1981 Lead dnf
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Steve Lewis 4 Jul, 1981 Lead O/S
with Gary
with Gary
Mike Owen 24 Jun, 1981 Lead O/S
with Gaz Healey
with Gaz Healey
Hidden ?Apr, 1981 Lead
cenotaphcorner 25 Oct, 1980 2nd O/S
with David Stainthorpe
with David Stainthorpe
clanger ??, 1980 -
duncan ?Feb, 1979 2nd
Hidden 10 Apr, 1977 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 12 Sep, 1970 Lead Only graded HVS at the time. I remember it feeling like the hardest climb I had ever done.
with Bob Knapton
Only graded HVS at the time. I remember it feeling like the hardest climb I had ever done.
with Bob Knapton
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set