Rockfax Description
The wall left of Energy Crisis. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch. Protection is just about adequate. Start beneath the left-hand of two wide cracks left of The Ramp.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb thin slabs, past a quartz spike, to reach the overhang - many slings required. Make a hard move right and climb small ledges to gain the belay on The Ramp.
2) 5a, 25m. Finish up The Ramp P2. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not the normal style of climbing, blobs for holds and not much kit. Good cam just before the insitu tat, which doesnt look that good.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Mike W 08/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with chris
Chriswallis2 08/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

The Ramp pitch

with Mike W
soph 22/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Emma Twyford
Hidden 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Lenny 02/Jul/17 AltLd
with Hidden
Greg Cunningham 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 24/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Greg Cunningham
Hidden 28/May/17 2nd
pete johnson 28/May/17 Lead rpt
BC 23/May/17 Lead G/U

Did P1. Can't claim the onsight as my chalk bag apparently decided to unclip itself from my waist, figures! Came down and lead again I found this to be my style (no jams).

JackM92 23/May/17 AltLd O/S

Found this pretty hard, just got it onsight. Seriously bold P1, glad I had P2.

pete johnson 05/May/17 Lead rpt
geoff b 05/May/17 2nd

Proper E2 5b; never strenuous but always worrying because it's so sparsely protected.

Flavio 01/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
DaveThexton 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with josh, Freja
Hidden 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull 13/Aug/16 2nd
with rich howells
Hidden 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 23/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Will Mortimer 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Steady climbing with very spaced gear!

geoff b 23/Jul/16 2nd

Tricky little number for which I was glad to have a rope above me.

Mike_Hayes 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Felix la shat 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Steve Crowe 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with KM
Rich Kirby 14/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Adam Ellwood 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Nice route

with Rich
Hidden 06/Aug/15 Lead rpt
pete johnson 06/Aug/15 2nd rpt
markalmack 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Rachel Huxley
Hidden 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Lenny 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch ,2

with Ralfy
James Oswald 26/May/14 2nd O/S

Seconded Nick, ace.

with Nick Duboust
NDD 26/May/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 25/May/14 Lead rpt
The Grist 25/May/14 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 13/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Cresswell
Abi Chard 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch - second pitch of the Ramp

with Ian
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 25/Jul/13 2nd

wet and soapy.. tricky finishing moves.

with dan
The old James turnbull 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with will sim
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead
miastacey 29/May/13 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
willoates 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S
with Luke
Howard Lawledge 07/Jul/12 2nd
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 2 as shared with the ramp, the step right really is blind! Brilliant route, pitch one is not as juggy as it looks from the deck!

with Tom Grant
Jillybean 24/Jun/12 2nd

Steeper then it looks but steady climbing, with a tricky move near the top

with Brad
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tom Doldon 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with sam simpson 48
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Dan724 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
sam820 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Murdoch
Owain Llewelyn 11/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Doddy
Hidden ??/2012 -
Alex Mason 14/Jul/11 Lead rpt

After reversing energy crisis with the intention of stripping both routes on abb! Much harder work than expected involving lots of awkward downclimbing and dangerous traversing.

with Laura Perry
PaulTanton 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
ksjs 09/May/11 2nd O/S

How good, got to lead this some time. Done in 1 pitch finishing up The Ramp.

with Paul S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
mr mills 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Elfyn (chang)
mynyddresident 10/Apr/11 AltLd

1st pitch.

with wolf, Kelly
wolf.leeb 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with kelly, nic
centurion05 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 01/Mar/11 2nd
with Andy
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rich Kirby 16/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Craig Smith
ellis 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
Ewan Russell 02/May/10 Lead O/S

lead first pitch, awesome geology!

Dave Warburton 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

Nice Rock on first pitch. I led Second.

with Ewan
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
C Mclean 08/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Phil Wilkinson
porridgefan 08/Nov/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Mclean
Alex Mason 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Led second pitch. First is dead funky.

with matt burdekin
Hidden 30/Sep/09 Lead
Luke Brooks 01/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Tom Eagle
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Al Leary
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
barni 18/Jul/07 AltLd
with Paul James
nige 16/Sep/06 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden 11/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
datoon 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with RT
Hidden 27/May/06 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Ash
GuyM ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
climbtim 29/Apr/05 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 05/May/02 Lead
geoff b 17/Aug/00 AltLd

I remember thinking this was dead scary to lead; I still think that!

with Nell
sadams 28/May/00 Lead
with Tom Briggs
Roget 17/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jim
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/95 AltLd
duncan 20/May/95 Lead rpt
with Dan Donovan
pete johnson 21/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Richard Yorke
Hidden ?/Apr/92 AltLd
pete johnson 21/Mar/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 02/Jul/88 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 31/Mar/84 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Neil McA 26/May/82 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
mikej 23/Sep/81 Lead dnf
with Mike Byles
Steve Lewis 04/Jul/81 Lead O/S
with Gary
Mike Owen 24/Jun/81 Lead O/S
with Gaz Healey
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead
duncan ?/Feb/79 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/77 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 12/Sep/70 Lead

Only graded HVS at the time. I remember it feeling like the hardest climb I had ever done.

with Bob Knapton
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set