2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good combination which is less sustained than The Strand, however the crux is short lived and technically harder. Start as for The Strand.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb up and right towards the crack of The Strand for about 6m, to where good holds lead out left below a bulge. Move out left and then head up and right into the crack which leads to a belay on top of a large flake.
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and right along a ramp-line, which is harder than it appears. Eventually a short crack leads up from the ramp-line to a peg belay on a small ledge, as for The Strand. 3) 4b, 10m. Climb the slab to easier ground and scramble up and off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5b/c. Starting The Strand, break off left through the lichen, belaying at the flake, before following the clean ramp to finish at the slab at the top of The Strand.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Misha 17/Jun/17 2nd rpt

Forgot that P2 is harder than it looks, particularly with cold fingers! Andy led in one pitch.

with Andy W
Hidden 17/Jun/17 2nd
Andrew Wilson 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Misha
Hidden 29/May/17 2nd
bpclarke 29/May/17 Lead dog

In 1 pitch, had a rest right at the top of P1 as described. Rock felt sketchy! Wouldn't like to take a big fall with gear behind the flake

williap 28/May/17 2nd
scottcoates 27/May/17 Lead O/S
with williap
Hoyes 13/May/17 2nd O/S

Thought this was more technical than The Strand but possibly a bit less strenuous.

with Dave C
James Beaumont 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch, reckon bang on E2 5c and deffo better that way, awkward moves on the ramp but enjoyed it more than the strand, good bits

with Chris Bennett, James Williams
JamesWilliams 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Found this a bit awkward in places. In one pitch

shed_hed 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Quite nice, rock a little suspect. More cruxy than the strand.

with Jeremy
Hidden ??/2017 -
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Hidden 21/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 21/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Suzana
Hidden 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S
khalidq 19/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Ian Lau
hamish2016 ?/Sep/16 AltLd
with Will Harris
Hidden 25/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Dizz 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Ian F
ian d f 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with Liz F
Hidden 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 11/Jun/16 AltLd

Jen led first two pitches as one

JendeHoxar 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
LJKing 28/May/16 2nd O/S

Backed off the first pitch, which is much the hardest. The top pitch was surprisingly ok. I would have led it if I had known!

with Paul Clarkson
andyinglis 22/May/16 Lead O/S

Led P1 and 2 as 1 pitch. Great fun.

Alasdair Fulton 22/May/16 2nd β
Mike_Hayes 10/Apr/16 Lead
saintlade ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Tenntenntuihn 13/Sep/15 Lead

Felt quite serious, how long before the flake on pitch 1 will do a "Fandango"? Pitch 2 fairly scary too. I'm getting soft - I blame the sport climbing.

with Catherine Higgs
Hidden 04/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 11/Aug/15 Lead
with alice thompson
Chris_barr 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S


Hidden 03/Aug/15 2nd
Rachel Slater 11/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/14 2nd
dicky79 ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dan Vaj 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Khalid, James McHaffie
khalidq 11/Jul/14 2nd β
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
kp64zl ?/Jul/14 2nd
with Julian M
Rachel Slater 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


Jake Young 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
David Sherratt 05/May/14 2nd
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
will9911 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd
willoates 05/Apr/13 AltLd

firts pitch has a few loose blocks/flakes, second pitch it great!

with Luke
ejected ??/2013 -
petekeron 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S


with Jamie Barclay
Sardien 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Scary even as a second i couldnt really trust all those flakes no matter how big they were. Once comitted nice moves. Andy led as one pitch

with Andy Scott
Hidden 20/Aug/12 AltLd
Jen Crook 20/Aug/12 AltLd


Ed Booth 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

What a quality route. Do at as one pitch.

Lenny 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

In One.

with Kev
sparkass 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mshorter 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with dunc
chriscarroll 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lead pitch 2...Cracking route!

with Owain
owain86 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1, good climbing, tough at E1

with Chris
Owain Llewelyn 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
with Brad
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2. Awkward!

with Tom Grant
Martin Cooper 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

I led P1 cold

with Nick
mikeshewring 06/Jun/12 Lead β

2nd pitch

Hidden 06/May/12 2nd
alek 05/May/12 2nd O/S
with Graeme Schofield, Tom Bide
tom.e 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Claire
Alex Mason 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

In one pitch (48m-ish) this feels harder than the strand. Brilliant duo. Watch out for some loose spikes.

with Bubbles
Hidden 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
givemetea 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S


dprctr 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the 1st pitch. Fun moves towards the bulge. Seconded the strange off balance top pitch

3 Names 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1, Sumee pitch 2

Owain Llewelyn 15/Apr/12 Lead

In 1 pitch

with Dan
dan ely 15/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with owian
Andy Clarke 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Very good route. Can see why it's been upgraded to E2 - sustained throughout. Led P2.

with Tim
Ollie B 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with T.Livinstone
Tom Livingstone 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S


Dom Whillans ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Stig 17/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Stunning situation and weather.

with james oswald
James Oswald 17/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. James lead the 1st (slightly harder) pitch. Got very psyched out by the looseness of the block at the start of the first pitch. Then started to rationalise it but I was pretty scared for most of the second pitch. Awesome hard crux move though! Horrible hanging belay...

with Stig
richiebongo 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
robinsi197 31/Jul/11 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
GPN 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Not to be recommended as 2 pitches!

with Ian Lawton
Misha 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

A very good route. P1 is an initial jugfest which gets stiffer towards the belay. P2 is harder than it looks as there isn't much for the feet. Led P2. Done on the Saturday of the CC aspirants meet.

with Gavin
C coldwell-storry 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

loose. strung both pitches together.

with Iron Mike, rob lay
dan ely 01/Jun/11 Lead rpt

ran pitches togeather

with steve
Hidden 10/May/11 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 10/May/11 AltLd O/S

1st :) loose flake???? Maybe if your the world's biggest punter!

with Connor
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 01/May/11 AltLd
with Jon
Rich Guest 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Led throughout. First Gogarth experience, complete with retreat from pumpout, grabbing of loose blocks, hopeless gear options and mamouth dodgy flake. Ramp on pitch two was 'entertaining' too... Can't wait to hit Main wall, I'm a convert!!

Mike Goldthorp 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, very unusual (in a good way). Looks easy but lack of footholds below the ramp makes it tricky. Much more logical link-up than doing the routes independently.

with Steve Ramsden, George Ulrich, alex mason
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Toby Dunn 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
sam820 03/Aug/10 2nd

Rich lead first two pitches in one go.

with Rich
dan ely 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S

amzing. loads of big holds and rests. p2 harder and quite the opp

with sam, rich
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
mynyddresident 02/Jul/10 AltLd

Ok gear, avoid cams in the flake,good climbing on good holds.Top pitch awkward.

with Phil
Ed Babs 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S


with Harry
richardr 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A good route with interested climbing. Worth E2.

Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/10 2nd
London Luke ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
phil stubbs ??/2010 -
with Nick Sharpe
Glyn 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Large flake on 1st pitch seems a bit dubious, avoid placing cams behind it. Also there is a loose spike or two on the belay/beginning of the 2nd pitch. Overall god route though!

with Tony Stone
decs 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Sam
sgl 21/Aug/09 AltLd
with duncan
david morse 09/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
with mikey R+Steve
melonmike 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

P2. Wouldn't argue with E1 5b, which seems to be the consensus, but also happy to take the E2 tick as per new Gogarth guide. Only one pokey move on last pitch but the whole route is sustained 5b. Great climb.

with Andy
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Bruce Woodley, Dave Taylor
Bristoldave 23/May/09 Lead O/S
mulletcocktail2000 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

steep and pumpy lower pitch. delicate and pumpy crux. upgraded to e2 5c and rightly so!

with paul
Paulww 11/Apr/09 2nd
with Ryan
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Chris wilson 10/Apr/09 2nd
with John F
jored ??/2009 Lead
with Chris W
Sgt. Vest 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with james marjot, sophie wilmes
Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

laed both pitches harder that I was expecting. top pitch looks easy it aint no pushover.

with johny
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
PenJD 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch and Duncan lead the second. Fantastic route!!!

Hidden 22/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
centurion05 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with ginge
Owain Llewelyn 19/Jul/08 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Holly Mumford
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Hidden 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Mark A Humphries 16/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Jim 1st pitch, M2nd pitch

with Jim
ritchierich 01/May/07 AltLd O/S

Ballsey first pitch and technical second pitch. Great climb for E1 5B.

mux ??/2007 -
RossG123 ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
shoulders 02/Aug/06 Lead
Shaw Brown 09/Jul/06 AltLd
with Chris King
frost ?/May/06 AltLd
with D Garry
sgl0jd ?/Feb/06 2nd
with Steve Hobbs
Hidden ??/2006 -
jgordon75 ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Owen W-G 18/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Excellent, sustained and good gear. P2 is quite unusual.

with Jim
jgordon75 18/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
a_radiohead_fan ?/Jul/05 -
cem 25/Jun/05 2nd
with Jamie, Graham Dolman
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
rob.grafton ??/2005 -
Samuel P 27/Jul/04 2nd
with Tim
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
pete johnson 01/May/04 Lead
with Kevin Sales
Hidden ??/2004 -
lost.arrow 14/Sep/03 -
John Pickles 18/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Tim Blakemore
geoff b 16/Mar/03 AltLd

An excellent combination of pitches.

with Matt Tuck
Ally Smith ??/2003 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd
with Steve Hastings
Marti999 ??/2003 Lead
unfit 01/Sep/02 AltLd
with ruth
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Peters
Rich Kirby 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
phardman 04/Aug/02 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Joe Brown
NeilGriffiths 04/May/02 AltLd

John and Paul

with Paul Morgan
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
WB 17/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Guy
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
crossleysm ?/Jun/97 AltLd
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Roget 29/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Bruce Kerr 30/Jun/96 Lead
with Steve Clegg, Perric Crellin
michael burrows 09/Mar/96 AltLd
with richard parry
GuyM ??/1996 -
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 08/May/94 Lead rpt
with lola gunn
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Mar/94 AltLd

good route, bad weather

with Nick Ashton
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/1993 -
roncaves 11/Oct/92 AltLd
with Martin Vimpney
AlanLittle ?/Jun/92 AltLd
with John Hynes
pingora 24/May/92 2nd O/S
with G Armstrong
Hidden ?/Apr/92 AltLd
mark-abz 25/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Andy Say 28/Apr/91 Lead
NickJH ??/1991 -
whispering nic 25/Aug/90 AltLd
with noj
Hidden 04/Aug/90 Lead
tmawer 27/May/90 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

with Andy
Hidden 20/May/90 Lead
pete johnson 13/May/90 2nd
with Andy Blakely
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
rilem ??/1990 2nd
with Ian W
Hidden 29/May/88 Lead
Nigel Coe 01/May/88 AltLd

Poured with rain for Gordon's pitch.

Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Roy Stuart ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Eric Powell
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/1985 2nd

My first ever Gogarth route after 2 months climbing !!!

with Dave Woodcock
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 25/Aug/84 AltLd
with Mike Butler
Martin Bennett 29/May/83 -
with RA
Hidden 21/May/83 AltLd
uphillnow 29/May/81 -
with john stanger
Nic Robinson 31/May/80 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead
Campbell42 ??/1980 Lead O/S

Did not record the exact date.

with Eric Marsden
duncan ?/Oct/79 AltLd O/S
mikej 12/Aug/79 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mike Owen 20/May/79 AltLd O/S
with Colin Jones
Ian Jones ??/1979 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
Derek Furze ??/1978 Lead
Derek Furze ??/1978 Lead
Steve Lewis 01/May/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Bolt Phobia 14/Jan/76 AltLd O/S
with Dave Hollows, Dave Williams
Hidden 01/Jul/69 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set