55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, that is well worth a look if The Strand and Park Lane/Doomsville are occupied. The route gains the wide crack in the upper right-hand section of the buttress. Start in a small niche to the left of the narrow path.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb up the slabby wall on the left that leads to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this to a ledge on the left, and move up right to reach a left-trending line. Follow this and then head up the steep groove that leads to a wall. Climb the wall to a peg below an overhanging niche. Exciting moves right below the niche lead to a belay in the base of the wide crack.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the crack with a few interesting moves near the top, to a ledge in a niche. Belay here or scramble up and right to reach easy ground taking care not to dislodge loose rock onto your second. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two superbly very varied pitches. HVS 4c. 1st pitch-slabby and fairly bold lead with some suspect protection. HVS 5a. 2nd pitch-wonderful, steep, well protected jamming crack.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Col Kingshott 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

P1 seems scary.

nickdonohue 16/Aug/17 Lead

As per selected guide comments a serious first pitch, not one to do if wet. Worth it for the top pitch though.

with Tom Lawfield
dobby 200 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Escaped down a nearby ab line after finishing p1. It was overgrown, hollow, lose, and not fun.

Colin Scotchford 09/Jul/17 AltLd
mjeffery 18/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Luca
LJC 18/May/17 AltLd O/S

p2. P1 is an absolute joke of overgrown loose rock, and the top out is even worse vertical grass pulling.

steven_daniels99 14/May/17 Lead
J Whittaker 10/Apr/17 2nd O/S

P1 nice slabby climbing on pretty crappy rock at times. P2 pumpy jamming.

Hidden 10/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
beagly77 ??/2017 -
scarmichael 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S

P2. Two totally different pitches but brilliant route!

with MSD
Hidden 06/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
GStone 28/Aug/16 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
ben.phillips 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. The bottom pitch was loose, had poor gear and covered in lichen - it was great! The second pitch was just fun jug hauling in a fissure.

Alison Cairns 15/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

Led P2. Scrappy scary p1 only just worth doing to get to the much better P2. Currently no lower-off at the top so we had to walk off.

with Martina
WillDoyle 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Kirill 29/May/16 AltLd
cem 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

scottcoates 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Chris
saintlade ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Bryan M 19/Sep/15 AltLd dog

Paul lead p1. Messed up crux moves at top of crack on p2.

with Paul Clarkson
Danny Crump 18/Sep/15 AltLd
Mackinclimb 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2, found it hard. Moss for feet and pinches for hands...maybe I was meant to jam.

RonnydeWeerd ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Great second pitch!

with Irene Wunnink
will9911 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Palindrome 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Nice second pitch - only one dodgy move where my foot slipped but my jams held. Good steady lead of P1 for Joe's first route of the season!

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey, Kin Choi
Olli-C 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch

with Pete Edwards
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
KeenClimber 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Ian Dugdale
Heather Osborne 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Loved the whole climb, led P2. Brilliant introduction to Gogarth!

Hidden ?/May/15 AltLd O/S
BTphonehome 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Adequate gear on the first pitch - just a shame the whole section feels like its moving! Good crack pitch to finish.

with Tony
tmawer 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt

40 years since I last climbed this......were did the years all go?

with Bram
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
maria85 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Second is excellent!

with Ronnie
Hidden 28/Jun/14 2nd
Hardcore Pat 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1. Not much gear and a bit of gardening.

with Dr Julie
Rob Grant 14/Jun/14 -
stuart34 13/May/14 Lead O/S
with Gabi
Big Lee 07/May/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Gear not great on the first pitch. Pumpy second pitch. Felt harder than Cemetery Gates.

Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Nigel Bond 06/Oct/13 Lead
with Joe Boyd
Chris Reid 02/Aug/13 AltLd
with Rob Muirhead
Hidden 29/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
UncleMephisto 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with NZ Dave
rob.grafton 30/Jun/13 AltLd
with Charlie Booth
Dan Hostford 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
robinsi197 04/May/13 2nd
Nick Sillem 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Kyle87 18/Apr/13 AltLd O/S


benkelsey 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

pitch one was steady on spaced hollow gear to a cool final traverse. Pitch Two was well worth it being exposed steep yet not too pumpy.. shattered at the end of a good long weekend.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 07/Oct/12 2nd
tedburt 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 2nd P2

with Aaron Burdett
Dave Almond 17/Jun/12 Lead

Quality climb to finish a superb days climbing.

Nicole Almond 17/Jun/12 2nd

second attempt after earlier benightment and fall. better in the daylight, second pitch hard compared to cordon bleu. tired and thirsty so found a bit difficult.

with Dad
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd dog
victim of mathematics 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

Sandbagged myself into leading P1 - well described as being both serious and mediocre. Luckily P2 is ace.

James Oswald 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Colin volunteered for P1 as it was his lead. P2 was awesome and pumpy.

with Colin Angus
Bob Windsor 06/May/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
owain86 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First pitch only (a pretty horrible pitch) - it got dark.

with Greg
Hidden 24/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 24/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with AO
paddygoodwinlondon 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Kim Mulji
kim.mulji 21/Apr/12 AltLd dog

led first pitch. fell when large clod of earth gave way and hit my belayer! recovered and finished pitch. second pitch very sustained.

Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
mikeyjbs 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Charles Green
chris wyatt 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Nik P1, myself p2 - he fancied the easier pitch!

Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 29/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with helen
masa-alpin 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

P1 is not so good, except for the final traverse, while P2 was excellent. The rope was tangled in P1 ledge while I was leading, and after waiting for ages I climbed down to help sort it out - we spent 2 hours just there...

with Lee P
david morse 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Em66
Em66 22/Jul/11 AltLd
with Morse
stephenhartley 19/Jul/11 2nd
nickmattia 19/Jul/11 AltLd

Led 1st pitch. James led 2nd. Great contrasting route.

Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd
al99 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

The guide says contrasting pitches, and it isn't wrong. 1st pitch is vegetated with a lot of hollow flakes and not much gear. Second pitch is nice!

martinazando 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 AltLd
Mark Young 29/May/11 AltLd
HeatherF 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
tonanf ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with biaba and neil
Sophie Nunn 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

with Pete S
Pete Graham 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hall
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden 23/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
sergio46 25/Sep/10 AltLd RP

Lead 1st pitch, a lot of vegetation. 2nd pitch more enjoyable.

with Tim Clark, Ian Jones
Ian Jones 25/Sep/10 -

Pitch 1 is atrocious. Beware!

with Serge Gomez, Tim Clarke
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd
Ianwesterby 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd
mynyddresident 02/Jul/10 AltLd

top pitch. Good exposure,tricky finishing moves.

with Phil
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
sian88 26/Jun/10 AltLd dog
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd rpt
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Apr/10 -
with Clare
Nick Rundall ??/2010 AltLd dog
Cheshire Dave ??/2010 AltLd

Thought I was going to die a pointless death falling off the grass of pitch 1. (Went to right of cutaway!) P2 was quality.

with Chris
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
phil stubbs ??/2010 -
with Nick Sharpe
Chris wilson 08/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

P1 is awful, glad Paul led this one and I got the lead for P2. Lost some skin on the deep jams in the awkward chimney/crack

with Paul
Paulww 08/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

P2 was good but not worth the pitch 1 choss

RCrockford 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P1

with Jonah
chrisallan 28/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 28/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P2

will9911 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with will
Ken Applegate 16/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitch 1, which was a bit loose and thin on good gear, pitch 2 was pretty stiff for the grade.

with Alex Wheldon
metal arms 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 26/Jul/09 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
Neil Adams 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Andy & Ellen
Jim Slater 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2, great climb.

Hidden 12/May/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
eagleopus 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Alys
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
brockers ?/Sep/08 Lead
with Guido
pieweb 27/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Alan Johnson
Hidden 15/Jun/08 AltLd
liz77 01/Jun/08 AltLd

Led P2; v. sustained at the top

with Ian R, Kate L
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd
Lloyders 19/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Parry
Hidden 13/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
tigertiger ??/2008 -
kieranrex ?/Nov/07 -
with Steve Franklin
Castleclimber 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

1st Pitch- Luke Alvarez 2nd Pitch- Richard Bartlett

lukea 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rich
Different Steve 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Led P2, jugtastic

with Guy Reid
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
Abi Chard ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
DavidR 09/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
with steve lucocq
Luke Brooks ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
A Crook 28/May/06 AltLd O/S

sustained top pitch, had flash backs to gogarth and fought those demons all the way to the top, fell off but not far.

rob1 14/Apr/06 AltLd dog
sgl0jd ?/Feb/06 2nd
with Steve Hobbs
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Dom Whillans ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
ritchierich 28/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches.

with Robbie Alexander
dicky79 ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Mike Bottomley & Andy Houseman
Hidden 05/Dec/04 AltLd
1202alarm ?/Sep/04 -

On AMA AGM weekend

geoff b 20/Aug/04 AltLd

Still covered in lichen & still hard for HVS!

with Nell
Hidden 04/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 -
PaulTanton 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
nige pacer ?/May/03 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 20/Oct/02 AltLd


with Albert, James Hubbard
Hidden 19/Aug/01 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/01 2nd
Hidden 06/May/01 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??/2000 Lead
with neil
VPJB ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2000 Lead
halfmanhalfbiscuit ??/1999 Lead O/S

Gripped, pumped and took my first ever fall on trad but landed back onto a foothold, continued on to the top feeling a bit more relaxed about life.

Hidden 30/May/98 AltLd O/S
Chris Ellis 05/Jul/97 AltLd

I needed a rest leading the top pitch

with Louise Pellett
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Tim Bateman 18/Aug/96 AltLd
with Paul McMahon
wynaptomos ?/May/94 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/1994 -
Budge ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Ellen Williams
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/93 Lead
with Chris Ranner
Hidden 01/Jun/92 2nd O/S
The Reaper 21/Sep/91 Lead O/S
frost ?/Sep/91 AltLd
michael burrows 14/Aug/91 AltLd rpt

led 1st pitch

with shaun
Rob Davies 01/Aug/91 2nd
NickJH ?/May/91 AltLd O/S
with D Picker
mattnuttall 10/Jun/90 AltLd

first trip to th'Gogath... love it.

with Alan Holden
keefe ??/1989 -
geoff b ?/Aug/88 Lead

All I remember is lots of lichen & that the top pitch was hard.

pete johnson ?/May/88 -
with Andy Tallant
michael burrows 24/Apr/88 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

with ket
Hidden 20/Mar/88 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/87 AltLd
Martin Haworth 20/May/86 Lead O/S
with tim wright
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
tapley 31/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Malc Otter
neilh 27/May/85 AltLd
with dave croker
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Martin Bennett 18/Aug/84 -
with Harry Lambert, Dave Prior
nigehughes ?/Aug/84 Lead
with Bernie Woodward
Lone Rider 22/Apr/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
RichardMc 28/Aug/83 AltLd
with John Evans
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/83 2nd

pitch 2

with Johnny Dawes
Andy Say 12/Apr/82 Lead
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Hidden ??/1982 -
charlesmfrench 28/Nov/81 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
uphillnow 04/Oct/80 Lead

done earlier about 1970

Hidden ?/Oct/80 Lead
Chris Terrey 23/Feb/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi, Mike O'Brien
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
daviesxxx ??/1980 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 21/Oct/78 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Mike Owen 08/Oct/78 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Ian Jones ?/Oct/78 Lead

Cold and misty.

with Chris Newton
Hidden 13/May/78 Lead
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/77 AltLd
RichardMc 14/May/77 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 05/Mar/77 AltLd
tmawer 30/Oct/76 AltLd

Lead pitch 1

with Rick
Hidden 27/Jun/76 2nd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Apr/76 Lead
with Will Walker
Paul Clarke ??/1976 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill, FMC
Bolt Phobia 06/Dec/75 2nd
with Martyn Hurn
Pedro50 03/Apr/74 Lead
with Chris Calow
pneame ??/1974 -
bob@daysmill ?/Jun/72 2nd O/S
with S.Worthington
Tom V ??/1972 2nd
with Ray Pitchforth
Martin Bennett 29/Sep/71 -
with JD
eroica64 ?/Sep/71 2nd
with Tony Sawyer
Campbell42 ??/1970 AltLd O/S
with Peter Calam
Hidden 25/Oct/69 2nd
Dave Musgrove 12/Jul/69 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
mikej 07/Apr/68 AltLd

Observed Geoff Cram grappling with the top section of Winkers.

with Wil Hurford
Seymore Butt ??/1968 AltLd
with Keith Roberts
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 34
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set