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Seals breed in Parliament House cave during the autumn months and climbers should take particular care not to disturb them during the time from late August to late October when the young seal pups can be eailsiy sepreated from their mothers with devastating consequences.
A large (huge!) rockfall occured at the back of Parliement House Cave in 2017 which affects some of the routes in the cave and further rockfalls are likley!
The excellent first pitch offers sustained, well protected climbing. Start with a 30' 4a scramble up a groove taking a belay beneath a corner (Crowbar).
1 80' 6a Climb the short crack in the R wall, then up R to a PR. Trend back L to another PR in the depths of a pocket. Follow the faint crackline to a PR high on the R, before a tricky move L gains a good hold above. Traverse R until moves up and R lead to a junction with Fifteen Men etc. in a corner on a sloping ledge.
2 80' 5b Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle/flake, PR. Follow the flaky crack to a ledge.
3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.
J Moran, A Evans(led pitch 3), G Milburn (1 pt) 1978, FFA R Fawcett 1980.
1 80' 6a Climb the short crack in the R wall, then up R to a PR. Trend back L to another PR in the depths of a pocket. Follow the faint crackline to a PR high on the R, before a tricky move L gains a good hold above. Traverse R until moves up and R lead to a junction with Fifteen Men etc. in a corner on a sloping ledge.
2 80' 5b Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle/flake, PR. Follow the flaky crack to a ledge.
3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.
J Moran, A Evans(led pitch 3), G Milburn (1 pt) 1978, FFA R Fawcett 1980.
J Moran, Al Evans (Alts) g Milburn 08/Jul/1978.
Ticklists
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Si Witcher | 28 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: 3 drilled/glued pegbolts in place, replacing older hammered pegs | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3 drilled/glued pegbolts in place, replacing older hammered pegs |
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| ian bryant | 15 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: 2 Jun 2022, replaced the abseil tat with 10.5mm static rope and a screwgate | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 Jun 2022, replaced the abseil tat with 10.5mm static rope and a screwgate |
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| tintinandpip | 30 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Sustained and superb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sustained and superb. |
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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff
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Route of Interest
Citadel
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)