2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is far from classic but the final crack is worth the effort. Scramble up 30 feet to a good ledge below a short wall.
1) 5b, 30m. Harder and more demanding than it appears. Go up a short easy groove before moving left around the arete (start of The Cruise) to gain the corner on the left. Climb this until a stance and block belay (old tapes in place) can be reached on the left.
2) 5c, 36m. Move to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides, follow the left branch. At a small overhang, move left then step back right following cracks to the final offwidth. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome route with a big man eating offwidth at the top. First pitch is worth E2 5b with tough moves and average gear. Second is also worth E2 5b up until the off width. There is a rest before the top, and you'll probably want to spend as long as possible on it.

Joe Brown

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Wide Cracks, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Thrutch and Clutch, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, UK road to wide crack mastery.

Hidden 25/Aug AltLd
peter.herd 14/Jul AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul 2nd O/S
Tubs 25/Jun AltLd O/S

Brilliant, with a lot of 5b climbing. Led P2. I found the final chimney easier than the rest of the pitch - I was expecting a Right Eliminate style horror but found standard thrutching. Controversially I thought the crux was getting up to the first belay. E2 5c, 5b for me.

with Dave M
Misha 24/Jun AltLd O/S

Not as bad as expected but I only seconded the main pitch. Steady crack climbing to a hands off knee bar rest followed by a few ok moves to another hands free knee bar rest, then the fun begins! There are holds in the offwidth and footholds on the edge so not too bad at all. 1 or 2 cam 4s and a cam 6 which can be shuffled up (no cam 5s). I led P1, which felt like a decent E1 5b.

with Eszter
ellis 01/May AltLd O/S
with Tom Holdsworth
Hidden ??/2017 -
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
Hidden 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Suzana
James Oswald 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Good route, despite the crap first pitch. The first pitch is loose and crap. The second pitch is steep and juggy, though not on Gogarth's best rock. The offwidth was brilliant - good gear before the crack gets really wide but I mostly face climbed it with a bit of chicken winging and knee jamming before a final squirm to the top. I took a size 4 camalot which was big enough for the lower part of the crack.

jonleighton 18/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Did p1, then we bailed due to to intense sun!

with Adam Brown
Mark Young 17/Jul/16 AltLd
with Stu
JendeHoxar 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
FlavioL1989 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
MichaelGallimore 02/Jun/16 Lead dog

Felt off trying a variation on pitch 2, by accident at first but really enjoyed the climbing so decided to go for it and see if it went free. It did. From the belay at the start of pitch 2 take the right hand crack to the small roof then traverse left away from your runners and back onto the original route. Felt E4 6a.

Andrew Wilson 08/May/16 AltLd dnf

Matt led P1 easily. I took P2 which was great, the first part of the crack was brilliant. Got up to the off width section and threaded a chockstone which would be the last runner before the top (5-7m to go). We had nothing big enough for the crack higher up. I launched up the crack laying back to the right and got my hands within 6 inches of the top but the arête was rounded. There was a sharper fin set slightly further back from this but I could not get it. I tried to get a leg in but it was all too much and down I went. Pretty good airtime, 40ft or so. Will I try it again without a big cam?

with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 08/May/16 AltLd dnf

Erm... Ye... Andy took a scary 50footer backwards headfirst from the very top of the crag onto a sling on a chockstone low down... Think he relaxed a bit before he should have done and foot popped. Rope wrapped round legs flipped him. Ruined my toe being launched off belay as had no boots on. Abbed for gear. An experience all round!

harvie ??/2016 2nd
mike mo ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
stemill 04/Oct/15 2nd dog
with Mike Buddle
john lynch 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Didn't know what we'd done till we got down, good adventure with no big gear!

with Bethan D
pete johnson 28/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Chris Parkin
Rachel Slater 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

P2. Honestly didn't find the offwidth any harder than the rest of it (where I overgripped loads). Mostly climbed it face on without going inside or laybacking, which felt pretty natural.

tim newton 15/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
robpartridge 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave Garry
markalmack 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead p2. Exciting at the top.

with little tom
Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Albachoss 27/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Dogged P1, seconded the main show clean

with Dougie
dswansonlow 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great route. Very intimidated by the guide book descriptions but wasn't too bad. the 1st pitch was harder than expected. The second pitch was a brilliant romp on jugs with good gear and then run out through the offwidth, but it'd be hard to fall out...

with Alex Banks
mike lawrence? 23/Jun/15 AltLd

Lead top pitch

with FatRob
Hidden 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

1st pitch 5c

with Duncan Barrack
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
WB 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

Cool route. Planned on laybacking the arete, but once up there, i buried myself in the crack. Awesome.

with Guy
MischaHY 29/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Hardcore. Caff made it look piss, of course. Will be back.

with Joe Heeley
Ewan Russell 19/Apr/15 AltLd O/S


with Tom Nichols
phil64 ??/2015 -
dan ely ??/2015 AltLd O/S

i expected the worst and found it quite pleasent

with dave chew
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 14/Sep/14 AltLd

Crackin' route. Phil led top pitch leaking a little of himself behind.

with Phil Ralfs
morganator 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Great route. Would be better as a single pitch

with Dan Arkle
will9911 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Simon Allcock 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch

with Wilki
Ramon Marin 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Tom lead the crux, offwidth felt desperate

with Tom le fanu
Derek Ryden 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch E1/2 5b

with Pete Johnson
tim newton 16/May/13 AltLd O/S

Had to have a lie down at the top I was so knackered after the fight in the offwidth. Just what I'd hoped for. Stu made it look so easy on second...and I was just looking forward to having a good chuckle at him. Aah well, can't have everything!

Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Alex Mason 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (E2 5b). Offwidth at top is more like E4 without big cams imo.

with George Ullrich
belay bunny turned bad 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Dizz 23/Jul/11 2nd

Excellent. Was clean despite the welded wires until the final two metres two far of the route :-)

with David B
dannyboy83 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch, Dan took the crux. Another gogarth classic that puts a smile on your face!

Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Frank Ramsey
frank ramsay 02/Jul/11 Lead

Offwidth gets harder as you go up. Very nervous squirming to reach the top with gear a long way below (no big cams). Found it a real tussle. Dave seconded it like it was a V Diff.

with Dave Turnbull
centurion05 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Such a good route, first pitch is way harder than 5a with average gear. Second pitch is brilliant sustained layback with great gear, then top off width is a battle but good! I started laybacking the offwidth until I was half way up and terrified, then tried to shuffle up my cam, which I couldn't reach. Topped out with holes in my jeans and blood dripping from my ankles! Three star route.

with The Reverend
Hidden 19/May/11 AltLd
Dave Rumney 16/May/11 AltLd
with Dennis Wong
A Crook 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Superb route. great layback flake followed by a tustle to the top

with Pete Harrison, Simon Frost
frost 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Pete H, Adam
zero six ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch. The top pitch is best enjoyed by laybacking, on the second.

bigie bob 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Pete Graham 05/Mar/11 AltLd
with Rick Graham
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dan gibson 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
Hidden 16/May/10 AltLd O/S
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Hidden 06/Dec/09 AltLd
david morse 09/Aug/09 AltLd

Led direct start on pitch 1 (this is never "5a") probably E2 5c, managed pitch 2 clean, just! Stunning route

with Steve
miastacey 02/May/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
Toby Dunn 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 2nd

Led Pitch 1

Adam Ellwood ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
stevebarratt ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Levittator in upper crack. One of the best moments of realisation I've had in climbing.

William Robertson ??/2009 Lead O/S

Good old fashioned stuff. Neededd those big Friends though.

with Steve Wilson
pete johnson ?/Sep/08 Lead
geoff b 19/Aug/08 AltLd

Why did I do this again?

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 AltLd

At the time I only took Calum out to climb cracks because he wasn't very good at them. It would suffice to say that he has the edge these days...

with Calum Muskett
Rich Kirby 06/Jun/07 AltLd

The start of a great day on Gogarth.

with Craig Smith
Brown 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Henry
nige 16/Sep/06 AltLd
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2006 -
simon kimber ?/Aug/05 Lead dnf
with Chris Stirling
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 07/Aug/03 Lead
PaulTanton ?/May/02 Lead O/S
TimJM ?/May/01 AltLd

Dave Reynolds lead the difficult pitch. Layback on wide crack at the top the best approach.

with Dave Reynolds
sadams 28/May/00 2nd
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 10/Jul/99 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Tom got the tasty pitch.

with Tom Rainbow
JulesV ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/97 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Olly Metherall, Jon Sykes
phardman ??/1997 -
michael burrows 14/Apr/95 AltLd rpt

not off width

with richard parry
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Hidden 13/Aug/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 23/Jun/93 Lead O/S

Gripper! No gear near big enough for the offwidth...

with Alan Holden
Campbell42 12/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Barry Roberts
Bob 06/May/91 2nd O/S

Did it in one pitch. The hardest moves are on the wall at about half height - the offwidth section is easy :-)

with D. Lampard
geoff b 30/Jul/90 AltLd

Scary, crap rock on P1 followed by bizarre P2: good value!

with Paul Donnithorne
keefe ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Spuz
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/88 Lead
michael burrows 18/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

took the escape

with steve ward
Hidden 05/Apr/88 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 05/Aug/87 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Paul Clarke ??/1985 AltLd
with Paul Greenland
Dave Musgrove 29/Aug/82 AltLd
with Mike Butler
uphillnow 29/May/81 2nd

Later lead the route (1984)

with john stanger
duncan ?/Mar/81 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
jon 29/Nov/80 Lead
with Vic
Hidden 28/Jun/80 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
daviesxxx ??/1980 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 03/Jun/79 2nd O/S

Hated the top crack.... but glad not to be on the sharp end!

with Tom Jones
Hidden ??/1978 Lead O/S
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Apr/77 2nd
with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg
Steve Lewis 31/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
petemeads ?/Jul/75 Lead O/S

The final offwidth proved troublesome but nevertheless we prevailed. Useful experience for Yosemite!

with Mick Brady
mikej 12/Sep/69 AltLd
with Bill Church
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
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