Rockfax Description
Very sustained and pumpy, although the pump may be due to the number of runners you have placed! Start just left of the deep Bloody Chimney, below a slabby corner.
1) 4c, 23m. Climb the slabby corner to a foot ledge some 8m up. Head up a crack for a few more metres until you can move out left. Continue up to where the slab narrows and then move back right to belay in the corner below the impressive crack.
2) 6a, 43m. Follow the crack, trending left then up to a pod. Continue past a poor peg, taking care with a loose flake, then step right to gain the continuation crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Jon L
Katekeltie 14/Jul/17 2nd

Dogged up. Didn't enjoy this! Found it hard.

Ellis Bird ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
NDD 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Pumpy! Bottom and top are on slight dodgy rock but really great climbing.

with Pat
Patrick Hill 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Scottish Nick
Duncan Campbell 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Pumpy!! Only has a couple of hard bits but the rest gets you pumped! Had to slap for the flatty. Good kit all the way but beware dodgy flakes at the bottom and top. Such a good name and such a good route!

with sam Harvie
Greg Cunningham 24/Jun/17 Lead dog
Rich Kirby 24/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Greg Cunningham
nathanlee 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Really pumpy! Really hot! Found hard, feet were in disarray near the top

with Heather
jonleighton 06/May/17 Lead O/S

Super good!

with Jim Tan
Ramon Marin 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

So psyched to get this done today with the smegfest and heat. Spending the summer sport climbing did pay off.

with dave pickford
burto 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with moleo
Andy Moles 11/Aug/16 2nd
with Burton
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/16 AltLd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
malx 09/Oct/15 Lead G/U

I didn't read the guidebook and ended up off route- a little to the left of the main crack where it kinks right. Took a decent sized fall when the flake I was finger locking behind expanded! Got it fine next go but i was pumped as sin because there was no time to rest properly. great route!

Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 28/Aug/15 2nd
with Will
willoates 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Tried quite hard on this today, but not a bad way to get back into trad. Sport fitness paid off on the rests. Dynoed to the big flatty! Awesome route! Felt similar difficulty to the cruise, but not as immaculate.

with Luke
mike lawrence? 23/Jun/15 2nd

Absolutely desperate, multiple rests but did all the moves, way too hard for me

with FatRob
Ed morris 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tim newton 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Arms ran out of juice shortly after the big flat hold, and making a small sequence error resulted in full body shaking until I grabbed a cam then flailed my way to the top. Pumpy!!

Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
switch 03/May/14 Lead dog

too cold and unfit this time. 2 rests - harder and better than I remembered.

with Will
Luke Brooks 18/Apr/14 2nd
with Glyn
Glyn 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Luke
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Toby Dunn 10/Aug/13 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead
soph 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

pretty wet and pumpy!

with Andy Reeve
Alex Mason 03/May/12 Lead β

Ground up. Tried 2 years ago and pumped out and my gear ripped a flake off, hitting me in the face so laid a demon to rest on this. Felt hard today, really pumpy. could barely hold on for the last 15m. More solid than I expected, but pretty blind flakes up top. Phew!

Luke Brooks 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with John Orr
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead O/S

Easier than The Cruise, harder than Energy Crisis

with Benno Wagner
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead dnf
thomasadixon 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Only just! Mike tried first so some gear in and not quite onsight, still damn chuffed.

with Mike
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
givemetea 07/Jul/11 2nd dog

Moves are ok but the whole sequence is arm sapping

dan gibson 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
ksjs 05/Jul/10 Lead dnf

oh dear, just seemed too much and i lowered off just below step right; felt like i didnt have the luxury of 'resting' my way up this or taking time over gear. think a few more routes at Gogarth needed to get more comfortable here. reckon also that thinking this would be straightforward wasnt exactly the best mindset

with jo
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Rich Kirby 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Although tried it 15 years ago but reversed/backed off on that occasion

with Kev
ksjs 08/Aug/09 Lead dnf

climbed to pod and just felt intimidated as the crack loomed above. some of the holds were wet / damp which in it iself wasnt really an issue but taken together with this being a potential first E5 for me, some hollow sounding holds and snappy looking edges, it was enough to make me reconsider: downclimbed from pod to ground. bit disappointed when i looked at crack from the ab tat on the slab, it really is much shorter than it looks when youre on it, id effectively done a 3rd of the climb. next time... never 43m as per description - 25M maybe?

with mux
IOAN D 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 14/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
JulesV ??/2007 Lead O/S
with toby dunn
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 2nd β
with Steve Adams
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 21/Jul/02 Lead
sadams 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/May/99 Lead O/S
with Andy Pedley
switch ?/May/99 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S

We both led this one. Because it's brilliant.

with KM
ukb & bmc shark 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 21/Aug/92 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1992 Lead O/S

Brilliant and sustained.

with Shaun Derry
Hidden 12/Jul/87 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
with Stephen Yates
keefe 24/Aug/86 -
with Alan Wilson
Ian Jones ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Great route, used all my gear. Bit rainy.

with Graeme Alderson
Mike Owen 15/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Steve Lewis 21/May/83 2nd
with Pat
Steve Lewis 21/May/83 Lead RP
with Pat
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High E6
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Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 16
High 6b
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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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