Rockfax Description
Very sustained and pumpy, although the pump may be due to the number of runners you have placed! Start just left of the deep Bloody Chimney, below a slabby corner.
1) 4c, 23m. Climb the slabby corner to a foot ledge some 8m up. Head up a crack for a few more metres until you can move out left. Continue up to where the slab narrows and then move back right to belay in the corner below the impressive crack.
2) 6a, 43m. Follow the crack, trending left then up to a pod. Continue past a poor peg, taking care with a loose flake, then step right to gain the continuation crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax

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North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
markalmack 11 May Lead O/S Tried so hard i nearly vommed
with Trouble Bird
Tried so hard i nearly vommed
with Trouble Bird
Katekeltie 11 May 2nd rpt
JCAshman 29 Aug, 2018 Lead dog 1 fall. The most pumped I’ve ever been on trad, could barley clip the rope at the last rest, let alone recover. Amazing route though, like climbing a 7a with good gear. Il be back!
1 fall. The most pumped I’ve ever been on trad, could barley clip the rope at the last rest, let alone recover. Amazing route though, like climbing a 7a with good gear. Il be back!
ferdia 12 May, 2018 2nd Pleased to second clean with a dodgy finger. Just about got away without headtorches.
Pleased to second clean with a dodgy finger. Just about got away without headtorches.
James Oswald 12 May, 2018 Lead dog Fell off once on the final really hard move. Pumped out of my brains and got a little too far left! Really good to do my first trying hard on a trad route of the year. Great route - steep and pumpy!
with ferdia
Fell off once on the final really hard move. Pumped out of my brains and got a little too far left! Really good to do my first trying hard on a trad route of the year. Great route - steep and pumpy!
with ferdia
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Katekeltie 14 Jul, 2017 2nd Dogged up. Didn't enjoy this! Found it hard.
Dogged up. Didn't enjoy this! Found it hard.
Ellis Bird ?Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
NDD 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Pumpy! Bottom and top are on slight dodgy rock but really great climbing.
with Pat
Pumpy! Bottom and top are on slight dodgy rock but really great climbing.
with Pat
Patrick Hill 24 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Scottish Nick
with Scottish Nick
Duncan Campbell 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Pumpy!! Only has a couple of hard bits but the rest gets you pumped! Had to slap for the flatty. Good kit all the way but beware dodgy flakes at the bottom and top. Such a good name and such a good route!
with sam Harvie
Pumpy!! Only has a couple of hard bits but the rest gets you pumped! Had to slap for the flatty. Good kit all the way but beware dodgy flakes at the bottom and top. Such a good name and such a good route!
with sam Harvie
Greg Cunningham 24 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Rich Kirby 24 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
with Greg Cunningham
with Greg Cunningham
nathanlee 2 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Really pumpy! Really hot! Found hard, feet were in disarray near the top
Really pumpy! Really hot! Found hard, feet were in disarray near the top
jonleighton 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S Super good!
with Jim Tan
Super good!
with Jim Tan
Ramon Marin 7 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S So psyched to get this done today with the smegfest and heat. Spending the summer sport climbing did pay off.
with dave pickford
So psyched to get this done today with the smegfest and heat. Spending the summer sport climbing did pay off.
with dave pickford
burto 11 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with moleo
with moleo
Andy Moles 11 Aug, 2016 2nd
with burto
with burto
Hidden 24 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
malx 9 Oct, 2015 Lead G/U I didn't read the guidebook and ended up off route- a little to the left of the main crack where it kinks right. Took a decent sized fall when the flake I was finger locking behind expanded! Got it fine next go but i was pumped as sin because there was no time to rest properly. great route!
I didn't read the guidebook and ended up off route- a little to the left of the main crack where it kinks right. Took a decent sized fall when the flake I was finger locking behind expanded! Got it fine next go but i was pumped as sin because there was no time to rest properly. great route!
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 28 Aug, 2015 2nd
willoates 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Tried quite hard on this today, but not a bad way to get back into trad. Sport fitness paid off on the rests. Dynoed to the big flatty! Awesome route! Felt similar difficulty to the cruise, but not as immaculate.
Tried quite hard on this today, but not a bad way to get back into trad. Sport fitness paid off on the rests. Dynoed to the big flatty! Awesome route! Felt similar difficulty to the cruise, but not as immaculate.
mike lawrence? 23 Jun, 2015 2nd Absolutely desperate, multiple rests but did all the moves, way too hard for me
Absolutely desperate, multiple rests but did all the moves, way too hard for me
Ed morris 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
tim newton 30 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 30 Aug, 2014 Lead dog Arms ran out of juice shortly after the big flat hold, and making a small sequence error resulted in full body shaking until I grabbed a cam then flailed my way to the top. Pumpy!!
Arms ran out of juice shortly after the big flat hold, and making a small sequence error resulted in full body shaking until I grabbed a cam then flailed my way to the top. Pumpy!!
Hidden 27 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 27 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 3 May, 2014 Lead dog too cold and unfit this time. 2 rests - harder and better than I remembered.
with Will
too cold and unfit this time. 2 rests - harder and better than I remembered.
with Will
Luke Brooks 18 Apr, 2014 2nd
with Glyn
with Glyn
Glyn 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 2014 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
Toby Dunn 10 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 5 May, 2013 Lead
soph 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S pretty wet and pumpy!
with Andy Reeve
pretty wet and pumpy!
with Andy Reeve
Alex Mason 3 May, 2012 Lead β Ground up. Tried 2 years ago and pumped out and my gear ripped a flake off, hitting me in the face so laid a demon to rest on this. Felt hard today, really pumpy. could barely hold on for the last 15m. More solid than I expected, but pretty blind flakes up top. Phew!
Ground up. Tried 2 years ago and pumped out and my gear ripped a flake off, hitting me in the face so laid a demon to rest on this. Felt hard today, really pumpy. could barely hold on for the last 15m. More solid than I expected, but pretty blind flakes up top. Phew!
Luke Brooks 20 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with John Orr
with John Orr
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 Lead O/S Easier than The Cruise, harder than Energy Crisis
with Benno Wagner
Easier than The Cruise, harder than Energy Crisis
with Benno Wagner
Hidden 29 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf
thomasadixon 13 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Only just! Mike tried first so some gear in and not quite onsight, still damn chuffed.
with mwatson
Only just! Mike tried first so some gear in and not quite onsight, still damn chuffed.
with mwatson
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
givemetea 7 Jul, 2011 2nd dog Moves are ok but the whole sequence is arm sapping
Moves are ok but the whole sequence is arm sapping
dan gibson 7 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
with roslyn mckendry
Hidden ?May, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
ksjs 5 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf oh dear, just seemed too much and i lowered off just below step right; felt like i didnt have the luxury of 'resting' my way up this or taking time over gear. think a few more routes at Gogarth needed to get more comfortable here. reckon also that thinking this would be straightforward wasnt exactly the best mindset
with jo
oh dear, just seemed too much and i lowered off just below step right; felt like i didnt have the luxury of 'resting' my way up this or taking time over gear. think a few more routes at Gogarth needed to get more comfortable here. reckon also that thinking this would be straightforward wasnt exactly the best mindset
with jo
Steve Long ??, 2010 -
Rich Kirby 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Although tried it 15 years ago but reversed/backed off on that occasion
Although tried it 15 years ago but reversed/backed off on that occasion
ksjs 8 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf climbed to pod and just felt intimidated as the crack loomed above. some of the holds were wet / damp which in it iself wasnt really an issue but taken together with this being a potential first E5 for me, some hollow sounding holds and snappy looking edges, it was enough to make me reconsider: downclimbed from pod to ground. bit disappointed when i looked at crack from the ab tat on the slab, it really is much shorter than it looks when youre on it, id effectively done a 3rd of the climb. next time... never 43m as per description - 25M maybe?
with mux
climbed to pod and just felt intimidated as the crack loomed above. some of the holds were wet / damp which in it iself wasnt really an issue but taken together with this being a potential first E5 for me, some hollow sounding holds and snappy looking edges, it was enough to make me reconsider: downclimbed from pod to ground. bit disappointed when i looked at crack from the ab tat on the slab, it really is much shorter than it looks when youre on it, id effectively done a 3rd of the climb. next time... never 43m as per description - 25M maybe?
with mux
IOAN D 15 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mills
with Mills
Hidden 30 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs 14 Jul, 2007 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
JulesV ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with toby dunn
with toby dunn
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 2nd β
with Steve Adams
with Steve Adams
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Hidden 21 Jul, 2002 Lead
sadams 1 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Dave Musgrove Jnr 3 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with Andy Pedley
with Andy Pedley
Si Witcher ?May, 1999 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 1 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S We both led this one. Because it's brilliant.
with karin
We both led this one. Because it's brilliant.
with karin
UKB Shark 23 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with Dave Marsh
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 21 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1992 Lead O/S Brilliant and sustained.
with Shaun Derry
Brilliant and sustained.
with Shaun Derry
Hidden 12 Jul, 1987 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1987 -
with Stephen Yates
with Stephen Yates
keefe 24 Aug, 1986 -
with Alan Wilson
with Alan Wilson
Ian Jones ?Aug, 1986 Lead O/S Great route, used all my gear. Bit rainy.
with Graeme Alderson
Great route, used all my gear. Bit rainy.
with Graeme Alderson
Mike Owen 15 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Simon King
with Simon King
Steve Lewis 21 May, 1983 2nd
with Pat
with Pat
Steve Lewis 21 May, 1983 Lead RP
with Pat
with Pat
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Voting
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High 6b
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High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set